Opinions on course of action here...

[Schrade]

The automatic is in the car. I picked it up, and drove home 70 miles.

Before getting in the car, I saw the reverse lights aren't hooked up. They decided that it needs a switch.

By the time I got home (haven't turned a wrench yet), I had a punch book.

Reverse lights out.
No gearshift indicator lights.
Glovebox hatch button inoperative.
Engine starts in any gear.
Cruise control inoperative.
Speedometer shows 30's and 40's mph fluctuation while stopped. It SEEMS to be accurate once I start rolling.

They will not offer up receipts for parts, which I stated clearly up front. I have my old parts, I think.

I'm thinking at the very least, filing Small Claims for the parts receipts, money back for parts with no receipts.

The 'driveshaft modification' has turned into a "different yoke", since I told them that some forum members said no mods necessary (as well as the transmission builder, RPM Transmissions - "Same Driveshaft").

They went in dry, and no kiss afterwards. Bad lovin' at best; who knows worst case...

Thoughts? Opinions?


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O6kgcKNQewk/UPDwgFGj9EI/AAAAAAAAApo/ZWyw3-0x1K0/s640/IMG_4956.JPG

[WVZR-1]

Chuck,

My first assumption was the install was to be a 4L80E so I compiled and posted thoughts taking that into consideration. You mentioned that forum members told you a yoke change wouldn't be required so I reacted to a 32 spline output shaft which still would have required a yoke change. I can explain but it's not necessary yours is a 4L60E

After posting all of that I see the invoice is for a 4L60E. I've had to rethink the comments. The 4L60E should have been a 27 spline out-put I believe unless the transmission was heavily modified with a different out-put shaft configuration. I don't recall you ever mentioning that it was. The drive-shaft modification wasn't avoidable. We'll assume it went like this, likely longer slip-yoke so it may have required a cut to length for fit, it would have required a balance after being assembled with new u-joints. First glance I'd say maybe $75 - $100 high.

The balance of your short-comings certainly need addressed. Have you had it on a lift yet to inspect? Is there a converter cover present? Is the install presentable with cooler, the lines, wiring etc presentable and anchored appropriately? Is there someone local that you trust for an evaluation?


**** I'm quite familiar with drive-line so I thought I'd research it a little. There is a new yoke that would have been a direct-fit requiring only a re-balance of the shaft after and maybe the u-joint replacement mentioned. Assuming they buy at wholesale from someone it would have been maybe an $80 purchase. Let's assume then that is what was used. I also see where it was mentioned to you that a C4/A4 drive-shaft could be used. I believe that with the D44 rear an A4 slip-yoke is required on the D44 drive-shaft, I don't believe the C4/A4 would be a direct-fit. It might be close but I believe a slip-yoke to a D44 drive-shaft is the preferred, in your case you only had the D44/ZF drive-shaft so the debate of fit for the C4/A4 is a moot point. A C4/A4 C-beam would also require being re-drilled I believe to be used and not be a direct-fit as is, again a moot point. Yours was a direct-fit.

The yoke I mention is 4.891 in length and the ZF is 4.880.

[ZZZZZR1]

Curious


Did the shop know that all of this wasn't right? If so, I would threaten a lawsuit / BBC action. I saw your other thread and glad he is involved in potentially fixing your issues.

I know Pete P (Pete on the forum) has done quite a few AutoMatic Transmissions and he might also give good advice.

In order to get $$$ back, you might have to take your car back to the shop and get them to fix the issues. (doubtful you want to trust them)

How does the Automatic shifter bezel look? Happy with the appearance?

Sorry for your trouble with it!

:cheers:

David

[ghlkal]

This is disgusting. I'm sorry to hear this.

Did they A) not even bother to test drive the car after doing the work, or B) know about the issues and didn't care?

Either way they certainly appear incompetent (or worse).

[BigJohn]

This is disgusting. I'm sorry to hear this.

Did they A) not even bother to test drive the car after doing the work, or B) know about the issues and didn't care?

Either way they certainly appear incompetent (or worse).

Did you-all read the name of the Company???

:confused:

[ZZZZZR1]

Did you-all read the name of the Company???

:confused:

Heard of Manheim, but never heard of Manheim Motorsports. Are they known for doing good work?

What do you know John?


David

[WVZR-1]

Heard of Manheim, but never heard of Manheim Motorsports. Are they known for doing good work?

What do you know John?


David

It's NOT Manheim it's MAYHEM - Where did Manheim come from?

Was this the original "contracted" vendor? I thought the car was going to be moved when the flywheel/flex-plate issue surfaced.

It's unfortunate for sure - can it be rectified? It would certainly be good if it could.

The "did you read the name" might likely have been a little sarcastic - Mayhem: crippling, maiming and on and on!

[pantera1683]

You really should not have taken the car home without inspecting their work and making sure everything was completed to your liking. That would have been the best time to deal with your problems. Of course now that is water under the bridge. I would give the shop at least one opportunity to make it right before doing anything else. If that doesn't work, you will probably end up in small claims court. I don't know what the maximum small claims recovery is in your state but it probably will not cover all of your out of pocket expenses. So before you go that route, a good scare tactic, If you know an attorney, is to ask him or her to draft a demand letter to this shop. If that doesn't work, I would take it to a reputable shop and have them document everything this place did wrong to your car and write you an estimate to make it right. That will be the amount you should be entitled to in court. If you end up in court, you would want whoever writes the estimate to testify on your behalf as well.

[FU]

Take the car to Pete and let him straighten it out. He's done a few ZR-1 auto conversions and know's how to set the car up the right way. He may do another auto conversion in the near future.

[BigJohn]

Heard of Manheim, but never heard of Manheim Motorsports. Are they known for doing good work?

What do you know John?


David


mayhemmotorsports.com

[alwayscode390]

Holy crap that was an expensive mod ... it should be PERFECT , best of luck ---

[XfireZ51]

No money without shakedown run. As FU said, take it to Pete

[Pete]

Reverse lights out.
No gearshift indicator lights.
Glovebox hatch button inoperative.
Engine starts in any gear.
Cruise control inoperative.
Speedometer shows 30's and 40's mph fluctuation while stopped. It SEEMS to be accurate once I start rolling.


On the Reverse lights,oh my god this is so freaken easy stock OE auto shifters usually have a switch with pin outs for reverse lights etc.at the shifter all they need to do is get a female pig tail connect to the OE reverse plug then run it to the reverse pins at the shifter with spade connectors or if you find a factory plug pigtail (bone yard)

Starting in any gear again go to the shifter switch pins connect the ignition in all gears but Nuetral and Park.

Gear shift lights i bought from same place i bought the auto console (bone yard) i could not find these at the local parts store,you might be able to custom make something and just connect to parking lights.

Hatch button is probably not connected.

Cruise is not working cause of the speedo issue,they probably connected to the wrong wire,again not a biggie.

On the Driveshaft, if you install a 700R4/4L60E/4L65E you can use any stock OE automatic C4 driveshaft and C beam no mods needed here.

These are all small issues but a good tech should be able to do these in his sleep,i mean reverse is the simplest thing WTF.
Hope all goes well for you.
Pete

[efnfast]

Without a doubt, you have to make the shop aware of these issues. Granted it should not have left in this condition, but they can't fix it if they don't know the problems exist.

I own a small business, the only unhappy customers I have are the ones I am unaware of.

[WVZR-1]

On the Driveshaft, if you install a 700R4/4L60E/4L65E you can use any stock OE automatic C4 driveshaft and C beam no mods needed here.


Pete

An A4 OE drive-shaft and C-beam is ONLY a direct-fit for a C4 with a D36 rear axle. The C-beam is dependent directly on the axle assembly and is NOT dependent on the A4 or the M6. Your comments have nothing directly related to this particular swap/project.

The drive-shaft modification in this install would have required at minimum a slip-yoke, u-joints and a balance would have made sense. The $300 charge is maybe debatable. There's not a "bone-yard" solution to this one that could make sense!

None of us me, you, Joe, John, Dick or Tom know what was contracted for or discussed regarding the project when it originated. The short-comings are unfortunate and don't seem insurmountable. I asked in my first post of the OP: Is there someone "LOCAL" that you would trust to evaluate the project? I asked if the work done was presentable? He's not responded to anyone's comments.

If the OP's intentions were to replicate an OE A4 install there's many things that aren't even covered in his shortcomings list.

For a state safety inspection I believe the reverse light and neutral safety issues would require attention the speedometer might also. Solutions to these would I guess depend on what was contracted, an OE function or just minimal operational function. They aren't the same.

I wouldn't think it needs a "ride" to Illinois to be corrected.

[Schrade]

Bezel sure ain't new, with that corner jam in the cup recesses, and in the the shifter boot. My BIGGEST PET PEEVE is corner jam.

Small part of the $825 'Interior Trim'

https://picasaweb.google.com/108734132856077235003/January132013#5832929078277419778http://zr1.net/forum/https:\x2F\x2Flh3.googleusercontent.com\x2F-LflrZejJLNU\x2FAAAAAAAAAAI\x2FAAAAAAAAAAA\x2FpFEFp LJ-Deg\x2Fs32-c\x2F108734132856077235003.jpghttp://zr1.net/forum/https:\x2F\x2Flh4.googleusercontent.com\x2F-CBYdhfNE668\x2FUPK6FvU8CYE\x2FAAAAAAAAAqI\x2FI1a_f wyCzak\x2Fs160-c\x2FJanuary132013.jpghttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LcMpfyvtbxw/UPK6F67FswI/AAAAAAAAAp8/VqdDLzznTxk/s1280/IMG_4957.JPG

I haven't gotten it in the air yet. A local tranny tech is going to look at it Monday.

They knew that the R lights were out. They said they'd get the switch for the stick. And they knew it would start in any gear, with no P / N safety switch.

They knew I was pretty disgusted with the times involved, and communication failureS.

I asked them if they wanted out of the job when the flexplate issue came up. They said no. I shouldn't have given them the option...

[Schrade]

Glovebox rear hatch button has a defeat wired in; I don't know if it's gear selector position, or speedometer???

[WVZR-1]

I'd think the project needs evaluated top to bottom and then address the issues with the shop. I believe the primary concern presently since you're holding the keys is how reliable and functional is the install? I wouldn't have the slightest idea how to evaluate the operation of the control unit and the transmission, neither do most here. I don't believe it's as simple as a "road test" around the block. Is the transmission guy that's checking it familiar with the operation? I'd be very concerned with the mechanical warranties and liabilities of the vendor and the installer.

Fit and finish are reason for concern but I certainly think the primary concern needs to be the performance of the unit and the control.

Snapshots can go a very long way to get a package together that can be discussed, negotiated and closed. I'm quite surprised that the shop delivered it with some of the issues and for sure without having you "sign-off" regarding them if it was a demand on your part like: I'll be there Friday at 4:00 to pick it up. Did they actually ever tell you it was complete?

[aafc]

When i installed my automatic transmission (4l60E) back in Aug. 2004,
i stared with an empty 4l60E case with tail housing that came out of a 1990
A4 corvette. I used a c-beam and drive shaft from the same car. Well it fit
without any trouble. Had the trans built and used a c-beam and drive shaft from another auto corvette.
For the Shifter is used a stock unit . I did remove the clutch pedal Assy for
more room in the foot well. On the stock Shift i used the switch on the unit
by extending the clutch safety wires (purple and yellow same size Gauge wire)
to the switch on the shift. What the shop might have done is bypass the clutch
safety switch. Same goes for the back up function, a micro switch on the stock shift will work. I'am now running a 4l80E in my car because of to much HP,
(broke 3 transmissions before changing to the 4l80E unit).
Your local transmission tech should be able to make your back lites work and
only start in park and neutral.
good luck
John Becker
one of a few auto(4l80E) Eq ZR-1's

[Pete]

I'd think the project needs evaluated top to bottom and then address the issues with the shop. I believe the primary concern presently since you're holding the keys is how reliable and functional is the install? I wouldn't have the slightest idea how to evaluate the operation of the control unit and the transmission, neither do most here. I don't believe it's as simple as a "road test" around the block. Is the transmission guy that's checking it familiar with the operation? I'd be very concerned with the mechanical warranties and liabilities of the vendor and the installer.

Fit and finish are reason for concern but I certainly think the primary concern needs to be the performance of the unit and the control.

Snapshots can go a very long way to get a package together that can be discussed, negotiated and closed. I'm quite surprised that the shop delivered it with some of the issues and for sure without having you "sign-off" regarding them if it was a demand on your part like: I'll be there Friday at 4:00 to pick it up. Did they actually ever tell you it was complete?

I do have to concur with you sir,some do want it yesterday.
It's just wierd where they let the car go with these simple little issues.

Pete

[GOLDCYLON]

Two words come to mind for this debacle "Feather Merchants" Almost $8500 is unbelievable, Almost 3K for labor is also unbelieveable.

I would not waste any more time with Mayhem but the title is appropriate.

Take it to Pete to get it straighten out as he’s been there done that. Consider filing a claim against the shop or give them one last chance to sort this out. Way too many small problems make me wonder what’s next in the long run beyond wiring and already leaking!!!