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View Full Version : How much does a frontend hood/fenders cost? ---


alwayscode390
12-17-2012, 08:14 PM
I was wondering if the frontend (hood / fenders) of these cars are ridiculously priced like other cars where the hood and fenders tilt up together.

Can you just use any c4 setup (as in buy a used one easily if a replacement is necessary?)

Thanks :) ---

scottfab
12-17-2012, 08:30 PM
I was wondering if the frontend (hood / fenders) of these cars are ridiculously priced like other cars where the hood and fenders tilt up together.

Can you just use any c4 setup (as in buy a used one easily if a replacement is necessary?)

Thanks :) ---

Sure and you can get "red" more easily than others :)
Cars get parted out all the time.
You can post what you'd need in the foresale/wanted area of this forum.

GOLDCYLON
12-17-2012, 08:31 PM
Any C4 MY 90 and MY 91-96 will fit both front fenders and hood. GC

alwayscode390
12-17-2012, 08:34 PM
Thanks guys, what does one usually cost? I know the Viper frontends are around $20k!!!

What is the body of these cars made of? What parts are what material (body panels)?

I appreciate it ---

GOLDCYLON
12-17-2012, 08:40 PM
Thanks guys, what does one usually cost? I know the Viper frontends are around $20k!!!

What is the body of these cars made of? What parts are what material (body panels)?

I appreciate it ---


The panels and hood are made of SMC (Sheet Molded Composite) which are created from using a heated high pressure mold process that compress a mixture of fiberglass, resin and catalyst. Or a hood body panel etc.

Look on Ebay or your local Craigslist a nice front end can be had in the 1k range or under all day.

scottfab
12-17-2012, 08:41 PM
I see on fleabay they are about $250 - 280

alwayscode390
12-17-2012, 09:10 PM
So are these cars virtually ding-proof?

How do they hold up to hail?

Thanks :) ---

GOLDCYLON
12-18-2012, 01:08 AM
So are these cars virtually ding-proof?

How do they hold up to hail?

Thanks :) ---

Yes. Well, You still can get stone chips however

alwayscode390
12-18-2012, 01:29 AM
Does the material flex enough to crack the paint with big hail I wonder? ---

Paul Workman
12-18-2012, 05:00 AM
Does the material flex enough to crack the paint with big hail I wonder? ---

Speaking from the (gut-wrenching!) experience of being caught in a hail storm, I can say that penny size hail didn't crack the paint, but it did leave little "stone chips" in the paint - about the size of a pin head.

Nothing like a few hundred chips like that to become pretty handy with a Langka kit. My thought was to temp the repairs until I could afford to repaint the car. But! In no time I discovered the secret was drying time, and I was able to repair a few hundred chips (on a black 95 Vette) to where I could not see the repairs, and I knew where they were too!

Fixed some buffer burns on my red Z as well. Nobody could pick out the damaged and repaired edges now.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/Vettes/10-17-10008.jpg

Why do you ask? (If you don't mind me asking)



YMMV....Just sayin.

P.

scottfab
12-18-2012, 08:16 AM
Speaking from the (gut-wrenching!) experience of being caught in a hail storm, I can say that penny size hail didn't crack the paint, but it did leave little "stone chips" in the paint - about the size of a pin head.

Nothing like a few hundred chips like that to become pretty handy with a Langka kit. My thought was to temp the repairs until I could afford to repaint the car. But! In no time I discovered the secret was drying time, and I was able to repair a few hundred chips (on a black 95 Vette) to where I could not see the repairs, and I knew where they were too!

Fixed some buffer burns on my red Z as well. Nobody could pick out the damaged and repaired edges now.
...snip...

(no hijack intended) I'd sure like to hear more about this. Maybe a "How to..." or what is now called "Technet" on the new webpage? Or a link another thread or somewhere?

alwayscode390
12-18-2012, 09:09 AM
Thanks Paul ... I am just wondering because it seems like I get caught in a hail storm atleast once a year and I wasn't sure what to expect :) .

I appreciate your response because its a BEEN THERE DONE THAT one ---

BigJohn
12-18-2012, 09:32 AM
What front fenders????

:confused:

alwayscode390
12-18-2012, 09:38 AM
That's why I said Frontend --- Hood/fenders , as in one piece ;) ---

BigJohn
12-18-2012, 09:45 AM
That's why I said Frontend --- Hood/fenders , as in one piece ;) ---

Want to buy new or used???
:cheers:

cvette98pacecar
12-18-2012, 11:01 AM
Thanks guys, what does one usually cost? I know the Viper frontends are around $20k!!!

What is the body of these cars made of? What parts are what material (body panels)?

I appreciate it ---

Dealer trade on the Viper front cover and hood is 22k. The reason they are so expensive is they are hand built. Very labor intensive.
As for you question about the hood, gills, front cover. Here is a breakdown of years and parts.
90 front cover same on all C4
91-95 front cover same on all C4
90-95 hood Same on all C4
90 gills Same on all C4
91-94 gills same on all C4
95-96 gills same on all C4

cvette98pacecar
12-18-2012, 11:05 AM
That's why I said Frontend --- Hood/fenders , as in one piece ;) ---

The gill would not pass the door if you tried a one piece front end. You could have a custom front support built where the front cover and hood were made of carbon fiber. I am guessing by the time the project was done it would be about the cost of another ZR-1

cvette98pacecar
12-18-2012, 11:06 AM
Want to buy new or used???
:cheers:

I would love to buy that LM nose if she was for sale. :dancing

BigJohn
12-18-2012, 11:33 AM
I would love to buy that LM nose if she was for sale. :dancing

When they were available the price was $40,000!!!
:cheers:

cvette98pacecar
12-18-2012, 11:42 AM
When they were available the price was $40,000!!!
:cheers:

Worth every penny in IMO.

Paul Workman
12-18-2012, 06:41 PM
(no hijack intended) I'd sure like to hear more about this. Maybe a "How to..." or what is now called "Technet" on the new webpage? Or a link another thread or somewhere?

Not meaning to hyjack the thread too badly, I'll give ya the "talking points":p


Stripping the wax/polish is essential. I used 3M adheisive remover on a pad to do it, cuz it won't hurt the paint (and it strips pretty well, apparently).

Follow the directions that comes with the kit, for the most part

Drying time is the key, and it depends on ambient air temp, temp of the painted surface, and relative humidity. Drying too long and the blob of touchup paint gets too hard and you have to rub and rub to get it flat with the surrounding paint surface - if you can. But, too short and the blob of touchup paint will be too soft and the paint repair will "dish" or divot so the surface of the repair is lower than surrounding paint surface.

I find that for temps in the 70-80ºF range, about 30 minutes is nominal (for the GM touchup paint), give or take 10 minutes or so (just have to see what works best and go with it!). Less time for warmer/dryer (maybe 20 minutes) to 40-45 min. for cooler, moister conditions.

If you guess wrong, no big deal. Just remove the repair paint blob and put in some fresh touchup and adjust the drying time. I usually get it right by the third try, IF NOT on the second (with practice).

Might be worth a try. Course, if it is a really big chip, then prep, paint, and sanding might be the only way to do it.

P.

BigJohn
12-18-2012, 07:06 PM
Cool!!!!

Thank you!

:cheers:

ZZZZZR1
12-18-2012, 07:53 PM
When they were available the price was $40,000!!!
:cheers:

for the hood only? Did you get anything else with that? :o

:cheers:

David

BigJohn
12-18-2012, 08:34 PM
for the hood only? Did you get anything else with that? :o

:cheers:

David

$40,000 was all LM body parts installed and painted.
Rear spoiler was another $12,000 installed.
If you need a replacement body part you would have to wait for it to be made and are only available to LM owners.

:cheers:

Blue Flame Restorations
12-18-2012, 11:00 PM
$40,000 was all LM body parts installed and painted.
Rear spoiler was another $12,000 installed.
If you need a replacement body part you would have to wait for it to be made and are only available to LM owners.

:cheers:


Hand over fist $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

scottfab
12-18-2012, 11:55 PM
Good stuff. Thanks. The key would seem to be doing one rock chip until the drying time a amount used is right. Then repeat for all others.
Beats painting the whole front. I have all the equipment and experience to
do it but would rather not if possible.

Thanks again

Scott



Not meaning to hyjack the thread too badly, I'll give ya the "talking points":p


Stripping the wax/polish is essential. I used 3M adheisive remover on a pad to do it, cuz it won't hurt the paint (and it strips pretty well, apparently).
Follow the directions that comes with the kit, for the most part
Drying time is the key, and it depends on ambient air temp, temp of the painted surface, and relative humidity. Drying too long and the blob of touchup paint gets too hard and you have to rub and rub to get it flat with the surrounding paint surface - if you can. But, too short and the blob of touchup paint will be too soft and the paint repair will "dish" or divot so the surface of the repair is lower than surrounding paint surface.
I find that for temps in the 70-80ºF range, about 30 minutes is nominal (for the GM touchup paint), give or take 10 minutes or so (just have to see what works best and go with it!). Less time for warmer/dryer (maybe 20 minutes) to 40-45 min. for cooler, moister conditions.
If you guess wrong, no big deal. Just remove the repair paint blob and put in some fresh touchup and adjust the drying time. I usually get it right by the third try, IF NOT on the second (with practice).
Might be worth a try. Course, if it is a really big chip, then prep, paint, and sanding might be the only way to do it.

P.

alwayscode390
12-24-2012, 10:12 PM
I guess the expensive body part for our cars would be the ZR1 specific rear end?

Are they hard to find? How much do they cost new/used?

Thanks :) ---

Blue Flame Restorations
12-24-2012, 10:41 PM
Depends on what you need?

* Rear Upper Surround (fenders) (I have an original panel that molds can be made from)
* Rear Bumper (very hard to find in good condition)
* Rear Bumper Moldings (91-95) (I have molds being made right now)
* Rocker Panels (fiberglass repros can be made)
* Lower 1/4 panels (behind the door)
* Doors (I have two pairs)

There is someone making all of the ZR-1 specific panels. Tyler knows who he is.

BigJohn
12-25-2012, 08:43 AM
I guess the expensive body part for our cars would be the ZR1 specific rear end?

Are they hard to find? How much do they cost new/used?

Thanks :) ---

Got one; do you need it???

alwayscode390
12-25-2012, 09:56 AM
Im just doing research to make sure my insurance coverage is optimal.

PM sent, thanks John ---

cvette98pacecar
12-25-2012, 10:17 AM
Im just doing research to make sure my insurance coverage is optimal.

PM sent, thanks John ---

Contact Adam at the NCM insurance company, no one is cheaper and you have a agreed value.

alwayscode390
12-25-2012, 10:59 AM
Thanks , that's exactly what I am looking for ... the agreed value.

I first need to know what I am getting myself into incase of an accident on the rear section though :) ---