I've got a serious problem

[vilant]

So, I decided to drive my Z to Ocean City NJ for a corvette show @80+ mi.. On the way down I started to notice the engine stumbling in 6th going @80mph if I hit the gas pedal. Didn't think much of it, as the fuel injectors are the original '90's and was planning to change them this winter. But when I stopped to pay tolls I almost couldn't accelerate it was stumbling so badly. I made it down, but now I'm really nervous it won't make it back. I also noticed the engine knocking now when the RPM's fall below 1000. My questions are these
1- It's stumbling badly, but as long as I accelerate slowly it drives (noisly). Do you think it will make it 80mi.?
2- The knocking I'm hearing below 1000 rpm's, is it directly related to the bad fuel injectors?
3-When I had it inspected in Aug. there was a ton of codes, like cam sensor, MAP sensor, some hi and lo vacuum codes. Are these related to the bad injectors as well?
4- Once I get it home, I can't drive it until the injector change. Since I'll have the engine torn apart should I order other parts? Like MAP sensor, cam sensor. Not sure what I'll have access to when I take apart the top part of the engine.
Any help is greatly appreciated, as I am complete nervous wreck right now. It will be very costly to have it towed home. And now I have to pump in another few thousand just to get it running right.:(

[Kevin]

if you're less then 100 miles from home, call and join AAA plus for $82 if you're under 200 miles get AAA premier for $117. As for the codes, I'm not sure. I didn't have any set when my injectors were bad, either time. I did drive from pittsburgh to the hotel in bowling green and then to the ncm with 2 dead injectors and several bad ones. As long as it's just injectors, it's drivable. it wont' be fun, but it's drivable

[vilant]

if you're less then 100 miles from home, call and join AAA plus for $82 if you're under 200 miles get AAA premier for $117. As for the codes, I'm not sure. I didn't have any set when my injectors were bad, either time. I did drive from pittsburgh to the hotel in bowling green and then to the ncm with 2 dead injectors and several bad ones. As long as it's just injectors, it's drivable. it wont' be fun, but it's drivable
Good idea on AAA, I'm looking into now.:cheers:

[tomtom72]

You could drive it back home as long as you realize it's going to be like driving with an egg under the gas pedal. If you can get AAA to flatbed her home I would say that's a better way to go.

The knocking is the D/M flywheel reacting to the uneven power from the dead cylinders due to no fuel so be gentle on her from that perspective if you drive her home.

Well, on the DTC's. I would just hook up a scanner and see what the ECM is telling you; clear the DTC's and re-scan to see if they come back and then go from there. If it were me, and I was certain it was injectors, I would just pull the plenum and do the replacement and then scan her once that job was done. When my OE injectors went out on mine, she didn't post any DTC's at all.

I would replace all the consumables once I had the plenum off: coils & wires; make sure the reserve tank is good, check valves r&r, check the hose system for the secondaries, maybe even toss in a new solenoid for the secondary vacuum system, make sure the MAP hose is good & oil free along with the sensor, make sure the secondary actuators are good and working up to FSM spec, I'd consider replacing the two coolant temp sensors in the left I/H. Depending on your disposition, pull the coil rack and have the starter rebuilt, Alternator, clean up the oil mess in the valley, and check the CCVB cover for looseness and maybe a new gasket as well. You can buy the gaskets in a complete kit from either Jerry or Kurt White along with most of the parts under there. I think that's enough to get you started so I'll stop spending your money for awhile! LOL

:cheers:
Tom

[Paul Workman]

Having had the experience of a burned valve; one on the Z and one on the F150, personally I'd shy away from driving it anymore until that issue is run to ground on the chance it is injector(s). If it were me. (The cost of a tow is a drop in the bucket, compared to replacing a valve. JMO.)

P.

[DaveK]

I had a similar issue a couple of years back and also worried it was the injectors etc. I started simple though and changed the plugs, that sorted it out. Might be worth a try for the low bucks and effort involved.

Thanks

Dave

[vilant]

Kevin, looked into AAA, and there's a 7 day waiting period. Which is smart, otherwise you get guys like me looking for a $100 tow, lol.
Step 1 is gettting it home. I'm going to try driving it as gently as I can and keep tow company # on hand JIC. Step 2 pull the codes again, there is a way I believe, to get them w/out purchasing a scanner (more money to spend on parts). Step 3 get an itemized list of parts I'll need, then fix it.
Tom, your scaring me, lol. That sounds expensive and time consuming to do all that. But, if it needs do be done so be it. I'm sure I'll be asking for more help from the brotherhood to help me do all that. Thanks.
Paul, I'm praying it's just the injectors and not the valves. Won't know for sure til I get it back and start tearing into it.:cheers:
I've owned this car this car for less than 6 months and I already put 4g's into it and now it needs at least 2g's more:-x. I've could of spent less, but I didn't think all this :censored: was going to happen so quickly. Beginning to feel I made a big mistake buying it.

[vilant]

I had a similar issue a couple of years back and also worried it was the injectors etc. I started simple though and changed the plugs, that sorted it out. Might be worth a try for the low bucks and effort involved.

Thanks

Dave
I'm not so lucky Dave, lol. The injectors are original, and I can't imagine that there still in good shape after 20yrs of ethanol. Remember, I have a '90. I believe the later models anticipated ethanol in fuel and modified the injectors for it. Was planning on an injector change, just not so soon.:cheers:

[DaveK]

Joe

When it happened with mine I had the original injectors in too. Just changed those over this year (thanks to the WAZOO gang!).

Thanks

Dave

[vilant]

Joe

When it happened with mine I had the original injectors in too. Just changed those over this year (thanks to the WAZOO gang!).

Thanks

Dave
Well, I hope that's all what's wrong w/ it, but I'm not counting on it. I need to buy plugs anyway, so I'll give it try. I'll let you know if that's all that's wrong.:cheers:

[Kevin]

do you have towing through your insurance company?

[vilant]

do you have towing through your insurance company?
You know, I have no idea,lol. It's Sunday, and there's no agent working today. I have full coverage, but I don't believe I have towing.

[Kevin]

If you don't, see if you can add it and when it kicks in

[Paul Workman]

Injectors, wires, coils, plugs, and a gasket set could be done for $700-$750, if you needed it all. But I'd want to scan it and verify fuel delivery first. What were you going to spend $2k on, I'm wondering...

P.

[vilant]

Injectors, wires, coils, plugs, and a gasket set could be done for $700-$750, if you needed it all. But I'd want to scan it and verify fuel delivery first. What were you going to spend $2k on, I'm wondering...

P.
Well, I got a price for the injectors and gaskets deliverd for $750 from FIC(not sure if they included plugs,wires, or coils, but I don't think they were). If I have to get it towed, at least $300. I'll need spark plugs, maybe wires $100-$200, I'm guessing cause I haven't looked. And if I need MAP, Cam sensor, guessing another $200. I hoping it'll be under $1000, but it could mushroom up to 2K, if there's anything else wrong, etc. Fuel regulator or pump, valves, vacuum pump, some other sensor I might not know about.

[vilant]

If you don't, see if you can add it and when it kicks in
Yea, I'll look into it. Probably a good idea w/ this car.:cheers:

[RyanChappel]

This sounds exactly what I experienced within a year of buying my '91 with 15,750 miles on it. Drove it 6-7 miles, parked for an hour, and driving home, I swear the thing was going to quit..sounded a lot like your symptoms, stumbling, couldn't find a gear it was happy in. The scariest deal was the dual-mass flywheel trying to compensate for the problem. I was sure I had spun a bearing or something major. I was literally sick....

I had it transported to Marc Haibeck, who replaced the injectors, and while the plenum was off, he found a non-functioning secondary accelerator pump and did a thorough review of the entire car.

Although it cost some cash, the car is so much better than it was..hopefully your solution won't set you back too far. As other posters have offered, if you end up taking the plenum off, do the work..

[Kevin]

I think gm still has the red wires without writing for not that much

[tf95ZR1]

FYI, twice I have trailered my car home to work on.
1) Blown high pressure power steering hose
2) Fried transmission.
Both times I rented a U-Haul truck and trailer.
Not that expensive.
Good Luck!

[cvette98pacecar]

AAA Platinum. The Best 200.00 I spend every year. They will tow your vehicle once up to 500 miles, three times up to 200 miles and the remainder tows 100 miles. I broke a half shaft 56 miles away from home called AAA nice flatbed showed up 30 minutes later. Driver asked what dealership would you like your car dropped off, I told him my driveway would be sufficient.

[Paul Workman]

Well, I got a price for the injectors and gaskets deliverd for $750 from FIC(not sure if they included plugs,wires, or coils, but I don't think they were). If I have to get it towed, at least $300. I'll need spark plugs, maybe wires $100-$200, I'm guessing cause I haven't looked. And if I need MAP, Cam sensor, guessing another $200. I hoping it'll be under $1000, but it could mushroom up to 2K, if there's anything else wrong, etc. Fuel regulator or pump, valves, vacuum pump, some other sensor I might not know about.

Well, Joe, I understand where you got the idea some of the rest of the parts might need replacing. But, I wouldn't bleed till I got cut. Troubleshooting trumps "shotgunning" (read: change parts till the problem goes away), and I feel you're looking at a worst case scenario unnecessarily. Just wouldn't want ya to worry jes yet, buddy.

JMO, but since you have a 90, the chances the OEM injectors will go bad (quoting Marc Haibeck) "...is 100%". (Mine were replaced by a dealer prior to purchasing the car. The dealer used NOS injectors, and I had to replace them again 3 years later!) My point is, it is so well established that the OEM injectors on the 90-92s (primarily) will fail at 100%, might as well R&R the bitches up front - a good chance that could be the problem now (but will be later "fer sher"). Then, if that doesn't fix it, revert to proper troubleshooting for the rest, e.g., fuel delivery tests, coils (as needed), MAP voltage verification, etc.

Keep us posted.;)

P.

[scottfab]

Well, Joe, I understand where you got the idea some of the rest of the parts might need replacing. But, I wouldn't bleed till I got cut. Troubleshooting trumps "shotgunning" (read: change parts till the problem goes away), and I feel you're looking at a worst case scenario unnecessarily. Just wouldn't want ya to worry jes yet, buddy.

...snip...

I have to agree just bulk replacing stuff under the plenum seems wrong even if you have the $ to burn. Sounds like injectors are cheap insurance and maybe wires if there old but I'd just test things like coils and secondary actuators. Based on symptom listed in 6th I'd pay close attention to those coils.

[vilant]

Well I made it home (thank the Lord, lol). You know, when I started the car again everything seemed fine, other than it was idling high @1500. But when I got to the halfway point it started exactly the same as the way down, then got progressively worse. By the time I pulled in the driveway felt like I was running on 3 or 5 cylinders. Definitly going to get AAA, once I get it up and running again. So sad right now as I'm going to have to store it until I can afford to fix it :cry:, probably beginning of Jan. maybe sooner. I'll see what codes have come up and get a list of parts I'll need. Injectors are a definite and I'll ask you guys if I need anything else from the codes I got. Thanks fellas for you advice and I'll be asking for help in the not too far future.:cheers:

[Kevin]

sent you a pm

[scottfab]

Well I made it home (thank the Lord, lol). You know, when I started the car again everything seemed fine, other than it was idling high @1500. But when I got to the halfway point it started exactly the same as the way down, then got progressively worse. By the time I pulled in the driveway felt like I was running on 3 or 5 cylinders. Definitly going to get AAA, once I get it up and running again. So sad right now as I'm going to have to store it until I can afford to fix it :cry:, probably beginning of Jan. maybe sooner. I'll see what codes have come up and get a list of parts I'll need. Injectors are a definite and I'll ask you guys if I need anything else from the codes I got. Thanks fellas for you advice and I'll be asking for help in the not too far future.:cheers:

Could be as simple as a fuel pump starting to fail.

[jimmy b.]

Hi Joe sorry to hear about your problems with your Z but I gotta agree with Paul and Scott. Replacing all those parts might not really get you any further than you are now plus all the money you just wasted. I would try and diagnose the problem first with the FSM. This is what I did and it helped me a lot...jim

[tomtom72]

Glad you made it home safely, Joe! This is just a fwiw on your symptoms and the laundry list of DTC's you posted about in the first post.

The behavior of it getting worse after a good while of running time does point to a possible electrical issue. Ign coils can behave that way if the windings have developed a short; also our OE injector coils behave that way when the alcohol finally dissolves enough of the coil varnish. You could ohm out the coils by going from one plug end to the other plug end in the paring. You can also ohm out the injectors as there is a how to over here in solutions and at Marc's site. Just be careful using the ECM harness plugs as your probe point to ohm the injectors. Most DVOM probes are too big for the female terminals on the ECM plugs. They spread the terminal too much as to not allow good contact later, and you do not want that situation. Usually our fuel pumps either work or they don't. There isn't much in between but a KOEO pressure test would be good to do. Usually if they are really tired you can get a winking SES light under heavy acceleration with a lean DTC.

I'm curious about the laundry list of DTC's. Did you pull them yourself or did the emission's inspection station show you the list? You didn't say you had a SES light on in the DIC? I figure that they are "H" DTC's ( H = history and they are stored in the CCM ). MAP hi & low, cam sensor right? They could be due to the connectors needing a cleaning, or oil in the MAP sensor & hose, or the wrong hose on the MAP sensor. That hose is supposed to be hard plastic to prevent the engine vacuum sucking it shut. Also, dirty or loose engine grounds could cause DTC's that are not real.

So how do you want to proceed with your diagnostics? JMHO. I'd do the diagnostics first, then decide after pulling & running all the DTC's to ground which ones are real vs due to some other issue like bad grounds. Then you're left with what actually is broken and or wearing out for a shopping list.

:cheers:
Tom

Sorry as I forgot this. High idle? All the time now? This is a new symptom? Could be a new vacuum leak. You didn't by chance check to see the MAP hose is not blown off?

[dredgeguy]

I have had my 92 ZR1 for a few months and first thing I did was change the injectors to the FIC stainless steel, got new wires and coil packs from Jerry. One other thing, mine has 62,000 miles on it and when I changed the oil/filter also changed the fuel filter. Found out the fuel filter was original and stuffed with gunk.
Runs like a new car now thanks to the Wazoo gang

[scottfab]

Joe
Boy after rereading you last post and how it started fine and ran for a bit... etc I got to say it sounds exactly like mine did as the primary fuel pump began to intermittently fail last year. It had run fine for many years then began to chug-a-lug sometimes. (ethanol related???)

It may have great fuel pressure upon start up then start petering out. Mine would start acting weird even before the engine was warmed. In retrospect I should have carried the fuel pressure gauge with me and slapped it on as soon and the symptoms came back. As a result of NOT doing that I ended up with a nice AAA sponsored flatbed ride :cry:

Now I have a secondary fuel pump bypass switch. It turns on FP2 so that if FP1 fails again I have a way home.

[vilant]

Glad you made it home safely, Joe! This is just a fwiw on your symptoms and the laundry list of DTC's you posted about in the first post.

The behavior of it getting worse after a good while of running time does point to a possible electrical issue. Ign coils can behave that way if the windings have developed a short; also our OE injector coils behave that way when the alcohol finally dissolves enough of the coil varnish. You could ohm out the coils by going from one plug end to the other plug end in the paring. You can also ohm out the injectors as there is a how to over here in solutions and at Marc's site. Just be careful using the ECM harness plugs as your probe point to ohm the injectors. Most DVOM probes are too big for the female terminals on the ECM plugs. They spread the terminal too much as to not allow good contact later, and you do not want that situation. Usually our fuel pumps either work or they don't. There isn't much in between but a KOEO pressure test would be good to do. Usually if they are really tired you can get a winking SES light under heavy acceleration with a lean DTC.

I'm curious about the laundry list of DTC's. Did you pull them yourself or did the emission's inspection station show you the list? You didn't say you had a SES light on in the DIC? I figure that they are "H" DTC's ( H = history and they are stored in the CCM ). MAP hi & low, cam sensor right? They could be due to the connectors needing a cleaning, or oil in the MAP sensor & hose, or the wrong hose on the MAP sensor. That hose is supposed to be hard plastic to prevent the engine vacuum sucking it shut. Also, dirty or loose engine grounds could cause DTC's that are not real.

So how do you want to proceed with your diagnostics? JMHO. I'd do the diagnostics first, then decide after pulling & running all the DTC's to ground which ones are real vs due to some other issue like bad grounds. Then you're left with what actually is broken and or wearing out for a shopping list.

:cheers:
Tom

Sorry as I forgot this. High idle? All the time now? This is a new symptom? Could be a new vacuum leak. You didn't by chance check to see the MAP hose is not blown off?
No, I didn't pull the codes the inspection place did. I know he said there was a bunch of codes and gave me the list, but they could of been stored, because I never saw SES light once while driving it. Here was the the original list of codes
13-left oxygen sensor open 14-Hi coolant temp 21-TPS cir Hi 22-TPS cir low 23-MAT sensor low temp Hi 31-camshaft sensor cir 32-(I believe he said this was the SRC right shock, it's not in the FSM) 33-MAP sensor hi-lo sensor 34-MAP sensor lo-hi vac 42-electronic spark timing cir 43-electronic spark control cir.
He cleared the codes so now I'll go back in and see what I got. And it was only idling high after the first time I started it when the original failure started. Once I left OCNJ, I was on the highway for over an hour and when I got back to city driving the idle was normal again, but stumbling badly. Everything looks fine on the engine, hose wise. :cheers:

[vilant]

I have had my 92 ZR1 for a few months and first thing I did was change the injectors to the FIC stainless steel, got new wires and coil packs from Jerry. One other thing, mine has 62,000 miles on it and when I changed the oil/filter also changed the fuel filter. Found out the fuel filter was original and stuffed with gunk.
Runs like a new car now thanks to the Wazoo gang
Was planning on injector, spark plugs and wires, and coil packs anyway. Just not so soon. Maybe I'll have a watch me tear apart my car and barbecue for those interested when I'm ready for it.:cheers:

[vilant]

Joe
Boy after rereading you last post and how it started fine and ran for a bit... etc I got to say it sounds exactly like mine did as the primary fuel pump began to intermittently fail last year. It had run fine for many years then began to chug-a-lug sometimes. (ethanol related???)

It may have great fuel pressure upon start up then start petering out. Mine would start acting weird even before the engine was warmed. In retrospect I should have carried the fuel pressure gauge with me and slapped it on as soon and the symptoms came back. As a result of NOT doing that I ended up with a nice AAA sponsored flatbed ride :cry:

Now I have a secondary fuel pump bypass switch. It turns on FP2 so that if FP1 fails again I have a way home.
I'll definitly check the fuel pumps. Would be great to have a cheap fix and keep driving and enjoying my car until the injector change in Jan..:cheers:

[vilant]

Well I grounded pin G on the ALDL and watched the display. Only code was C 12. Which means no codes:confused:. I guess that's a good thing. I'll start probing the fuel system next.

[Kevin]

test the injectors next. there's a way to do the primary's via the ecm but i don't know it. the other way is to pull the plenum and stick an ohm meter on them. 12.5-15 is what you need

[vilant]

test the injectors next. there's a way to do the primary's via the ecm but i don't know it. the other way is to pull the plenum and stick an ohm meter on them. 12.5-15 is what you need
I'll try the ECM, I'm sure it's in solutions, if not I have the FSM. Not pulling the plenum until I'm ready for the injector change.:cheers:

[scottfab]

I'll try the ECM, I'm sure it's in solutions, if not I have the FSM. Not pulling the plenum until I'm ready for the injector change.:cheers:

I would think the next easiest is fuel pressure.
Someone recently put a gauge on with an extension long
enough to tape the gauge to the windshield. I would have
done that but didn't think of it. If it still starts and runs ok at
first then maybe you just watch that pressure to see if it starts
fluctuating or just goes low.

[vilant]

Yep......-Solutions- post#4 :handshak:

Test Injectors (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=17299#post17299)
Lol, I was just reading that while you and Scott wrote your replies. Need to go buy a gauge and I'm going to buy a new fuel filter. I'm praying my fuel pump assembly doesn't look like the one in the post.:pray That was one rusty SOB, lol.

[vilant]

Ok I just ohmed out the injectors, didn't feel like running out to buy a gauge yet. Did order a fuel filter though. Thank you c4koh for this http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=17299#post17299
made my job a lot easier. Here's the verdict
Primary Secondary
1- 11.8 12.4
2- 12.4 12.2
3- 3.6 7.4
4- 12.3 12.4
5- 7.1 2.7
6- 12.4 12.3
7- 12.6 12.3
8- 12.6 12.4
Think it's safe to say my #3 and #5, pri and sec are shot. The engine was cold, don't think that makes a difference in this case though. I'll still check the fuel system, but are those 4 injectors the root cause?

[Kevin]

well there's you're problem. they're all bad. 3 and 5 are dead, you need to replace all 16.

[vilant]

well there's you're problem. they're all bad. 3 and 5 are dead, you need to replace all 16.
I thought that if they were in the 12 range, they were still good. No? Or is that because the engine was cold.

[Kevin]

12.5-15 is where they should be. anything lower then that and they're already dying

[vilant]

12.5-15 is where they should be. anything lower then that and they're already dying
Ahh, I see, thanks. Well looks like I have dead ZR-1 til Jan.:cry:. This sucks.

[scottfab]

I thought that if they were in the 12 range, they were still good. No? Or is that because the engine was cold.

All of mine are between 11 and 12.
Runs great.
I'm very interested.
Let us know if just replacing two (or all) injectors fixes you initial problem.

[vilant]

All of mine are between 11 and 12.
Runs great.
I'm very interested.
Let us know if just replacing two (or all) injectors fixes you initial problem.
Since I'm pulling the plenum, I'll do all 16. Don't feel like running into the same problem again, a few months down the road. I'll replace all plug and wires and maybe the coil packs too. I'll take pics and do a nice write up when the time comes. Hopefully sooner than later.:cheers:

[Paul Workman]

I thought that if they were in the 12 range, they were still good. No? Or is that because the engine was cold.

You can get fooled when they are cool. Checking them HOT is the only way to evaluate the winding's resistance accurately. (That goes for the coils too.) 12-12.5Ω is about average for OEM injectors, according to what I saw in my OEMs (when I had them) and what others have written here. Resistance may differ with aftermarket injectors, however. But, it is pretty clear that when the OEMs slide into the mid/low 10s, they're on the way out...fast!

I bought a set of Accels from Summit, on Marc Haibeck's suggestion, and it was amazing how much smoother the idle became. And, WOT performace was good enough for 432 RWHP on my stock block, stock cammed LT5. The injectors were $587 delivered, a couple years ago. The plain Jane LT5 GM plug wires (not roll stamped) were $70, and I don't recall how much the AC/Delco coils were, price wise, but must have been reasonable (or the cost might have left a better impression!;)) AC/Delco 41-602 plugs are under $2 a copy and good as new for almost 8k miles in mine, and good for some 11.0x second runs in Pete's car, and some 10 second runs in the FBI big inch LT5s too.

P.

[vilant]

You can get fooled when they are cool. Checking them HOT is the only way to evaluate the winding's resistance accurately. (That goes for the coils too.) 12-12.5Ω is about average for OEM injectors, according to what I saw in my OEMs (when I had them) and what others have written here. Resistance may differ with aftermarket injectors, however. But, it is pretty clear that when the OEMs slide into the mid/low 10s, they're on the way out...fast!

I bought a set of Accels from Summit, on Marc Haibeck's suggestion, and it was amazing how much smoother the idle became. And, WOT performace was good enough for 432 RWHP on my stock block, stock cammed LT5. The injectors were $587 delivered, a couple years ago. The plain Jane LT5 GM plug wires (not roll stamped) were $70, and I don't recall how much the AC/Delco coils were, price wise, but must have been reasonable (or the cost might have left a better impression!;)) AC/Delco 41-602 plugs are under $2 a copy and good as new for almost 8k miles in mine, and good for some 11.0x second runs in Pete's car, and some 10 second runs in the FBI big inch LT5s too.

P.
I'm curious as to why they should be hot. It's been a long time since I was in electrical school, but I learned heat increases resistance in electrical circuits. That's one of the reasons why super conductors have almost 0 resistance, they're cooled w/ liquid nitrogen. The readings I got when they were cold should be lower, then when they are hot. Thanks for the info, I'll be looking to price stuff out.:cheers:

[mike100]

I'm curious as to why they should be hot. It's been a long time since I was in electrical school, but I learned heat increases resistance in electrical circuits. That's one of the reasons why super conductors have almost 0 resistance, they're cooled w/ liquid nitrogen. The readings I got when they were cold should be lower, then when they are hot. Thanks for the info, I'll be looking to price stuff out.:cheers:

for metal conductors, you are correct, but on coil windings, the magnetic wire is dipped in an insulation that is very thin. Once that is compromised, turns of the coil or entire sections may start shorting out making the total winding effectively shorter (less inductance and resistance). The heat just causes the coils to press into each other due to mechanical stresses in the injector assembly I suppose.

any noise could be the misfire, but if you have a bit of slop in the dual mass flywheel spring, you could be hearing that knock due to the rough idle. You are going to be amazed at how much better your car is going to idle (Like Paul said).

[vilant]

for metal conductors, you are correct, but on coil windings, the magnetic wire is dipped in an insulation that is very thin. Once that is compromised, turns of the coil or entire sections may start shorting out making the total winding effectively shorter (less inductance and resistance). The heat just causes the coils to press into each other due to mechanical stresses in the injector assembly I suppose.

any noise could be the misfire, but if you have a bit of slop in the dual mass flywheel spring, you could be hearing that knock due to the rough idle. You are going to be amazed at how much better your car is going to idle (Like Paul said).
I see, thanks for clarifying. I know I can't wait, it's going to be a long 3 months. :cheers:

[Kevin]

I see, thanks for clarifying. I know I can't wait, it's going to be a long 3 months. :cheers:

the way this weather is, you're not gona have much drive time left

[vilant]

the way this weather is, you're not gona have much drive time left
I've got no drive time left, lol. But when I do fix it, I'll take it out as long as the roads aren't snowy, wet, or salted.:cheers: