Haibeck chip and valet key

[Dime]

So I took the z out for a drive today. Cruised around, let everything warm up, eased into it, and it climbed up to 4,000-4,500 and started to feel sluggish and fell flat on it's face at 5,000-5,500. I didn't know what was going on, but it reminded me of the one other ZR-1 I've driven that had a stock chip and it behaved that same, obviously, when the secondaries were turned off. So I flip the key on, stood on it, and it takes of like a shot as always.

The thing is my car has a Haibeck chip and I thought it bypassed the valet key? I've driven the car plenty of times with the key off and the behavior of the car didn't change; so what's the deal all of the sudden with it working?

[efnfast]

Dime, my Haibeck chip definately does NOT bypass the valet key. In later models the valet key defaults to "normal" every key start. Correct me if I'm wrong guys. Marc can program so the default is "full". On my 90, the key is starting to, stick? I have to move it sometimes to get into full power mode. The display on the DIC seems to reflect whether the key is full or normal. I've heard that the contacts get dirty and need to be cleaned. Hoping that is my problem. -Steve

[tomtom72]

Okay the standard Marc Haibeck programing on 91 & up is to default to "FULL POWER" with his chips....I guess you can ask him to not do that? On the 90's you have no choice, he can't add that feature to the programing. This would apply to cars with the secondary system intact.

The only thing I can think of is that if the EPROM is having some kind of intermittent seating issue. I know inside the door to the EPROM of my 90's ECM there is a little foam pad that I figure the factory put there as a wedge to keep the EPROM from moving(??). It didn't fit quite well when I put Marc's piggy-back plug-in on the stock chip. You have to remove the OE chip's cover and plug the piggy-back into the OE chip. The OE foam pad does nothing as a result. I got a DTC for a "MEMCAL ERROR" after a while. I fashioned another foam block that fits better and have had no issues since. Of course, with the DTC, I had no secondary operation. That's all I can think of that could possibly apply in what you had happen Dime. :o

:cheers:
Tom

[Tyler Townsley]

In the 90 the key has to be in the full power mode to get full power. It defaults to that mode on start if the key is on. Later models default to off on start even if the key is on. Marc changes this in the calibration but in every case the key must be in the full power setting.

Tyler

[MikeGolf]

This is from Marc's site for MY 93-95. This is the chip I have, It works.

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/products/Calibration%20BMCBG.htm

Description of Calibration BMCBG

Calibration description for BMCBG. Version 4.

The calibration generally increases torque and horsepower by 10 respectively. It also reduces power fadeout associated with engine compartment heat. The engine will be more powerful and the output will be more consistent as the engine thoroughly warms up.

The original equipment calibration is designed to protect the engine when 87 octane regular grade fuel is used. This calibration optimizes the knock control for fuel with 91 octane or more. Premium grade fuel is required.

- The ignition spark advance is increased 10% at all engine speeds. As a result, the advance at wide open throttle is increased by 3 over the stock calibration to 28 degrees.

- Both of the cooling fans are turned on at 205 degrees. Both turn off at 200 degrees.

- The fuel delivery at wide open throttle is about 6% rich in the stock calibration. The fueling is reduced by 3%.

- The stock calibration retards the ignition spark advance when the intake air temperature is over 90 degrees F. This is revised to 160 degrees and the amount of retard is decreased.

- The stock calibration tends to falsely detect ignition spark knock on shifts at over 6000 rpm. This can result in a 10 hp power reduction for about a second in the next gear. The effect of these false knocks is reduced by 50%.

- The CAGS (1 to 4 shift) is disabled. Turns off the 1 to 4 shift lamp.

- The power key mode default is On.

[Paul Workman]

Okay the standard Marc Haibeck programing on 91 & up is to default to "FULL POWER" with his chips....I guess you can ask him to not do that? On the 90's you have no choice, he can't add that feature to the programing. This would apply to cars with the secondary system intact.

Tom

Yep. On 90s with secondaries removed it is a good idea to hard-wire a shunt across the switch - the only way to "default" the switch in FULL, come what may! (Those that might not know, when the secondaries are deleted, the ECM is programmed so that the primary and secondary injectors each share 1/2 of the fueling duties. Should the POWER switch, for example, switch OFF or a contact open, the secondary injectors are cut off, and the fueling suddenly goes way lean!)

P.