My Car Has Become Unreliable

[Moonlk]

After 10 months of flawless performance, I had a no start. Car was warm but had been sitting for about 1 hour. No security light, no solenoid click, nothing when you turn the key. So I tried to remember posts that I had read in the past about no starts but drew a blank. Waited about another 20 minutes and then it started. I guess a bypass is in order.

[scottfab]

After 10 months of flawless performance, I had a no start. Car was warm but had been sitting for about 1 hour. No security light, no solenoid click, nothing when you turn the key. So I tried to remember posts that I had read in the past about no starts but drew a blank. Waited about another 20 minutes and then it started. I guess a bypass is in order.

yah, likely the switch. Sometimes you can press the clutch several times
to get "just one more" start before replacing the switch.
As a general rule you always want the clutch fully pressed before
turning the key. That way the switch does not draw an arc on the contacts when current is applied.
I do this and I have never had a no-start due to the clutch switch in 15yrs.

[scottfab]

He says no security light so I think VATS is not involved.
Since he waited a while and it started that probably rules out battery.
I think he's on to it. Likely needs a temporary bypass of clutch switch to get over the hump. At least he's not stranded. But still could be the bendix on the starter. It's just less often that it's that.

[-=Jeff=-]

After 10 months of flawless performance, I had a no start. Car was warm but had been sitting for about 1 hour. No security light, no solenoid click, nothing when you turn the key. So I tried to remember posts that I had read in the past about no starts but drew a blank. Waited about another 20 minutes and then it started. I guess a bypass is in order.

This happened to me a couple times. In my case the clutch safety switch was bypassed ( Prior to my purchase) . I installed an added relay sending 12v directly to the starter solenoid.. I still had issues.

I bought a starter solenoid rebuild kit, replacing the contacts on the solenoid.. Has been working great since..

I still need to check the bypass switch to see if it works, then I might wire it back in the circuit

[XfireZ51]

This happened to me a couple times. In my case the clutch safety switch was bypassed ( Prior to my purchase) . I installed an added relay sending 12v directly to the starter solenoid.. I still had issues.

I bought a starter solenoid rebuild kit, replacing the contacts on the solenoid.. Has been working great since..

I still need to check the bypass switch to see if it works, then I might wire it back in the circuit

The solenoid rebuild really helps.

[Corbusa]

Guys, why dont we get all this info put together ,ie all the important topics , emergency issues , upgrades bla bla bla and make a book out of it !!? Serious ! We could all pitch in and pay for it to be printed and sell it on the site for the registry to have $$ for events or needed emergency funds.. My reason for saying this is Just like Moonlk said trying to remember everything we've read or heard in the past its easy to draw a blank. Just the price of 1 wrecker haul , damage from hauling, and time would make the book worth its weight in oil :)
I guess another reason I am thinking about this is I am writing a book on health - martial arts and healing . There's a dude not too far from me that will put the book in print fairly cheap..
Sorry I didnt mean to steal the topic ! to my corner now:(

[XfireZ51]

Guys, why dont we get all this info put together ,ie all the important topics , emergency issues , upgrades bla bla bla and make a book out of it !!? Serious ! We could all pitch in and pay for it to be printed and sell it on the site for the registry to have $$ for events or needed emergency funds.. My reason for saying this is Just like Moonlk said trying to remember everything we've read or heard in the past its easy to draw a blank. Just the price of 1 wrecker haul , damage from hauling, and time would make the book worth its weight in oil :)
I guess another reason I am thinking about this is I am writing a book on health - martial arts and healing . There's a dude not too far from me that will put the book in print fairly cheap..
Sorry I didnt mean to steal the topic ! to my corner now:(

Hasn't Dynomite done a great job of this in Solutions? :confused:

[scottfab]

Hasn't Dynomite done a great job of this in Solutions? :confused:

Yup and because it's not printed it can remain flexible and has at least the possibility of staying current.
There are also other sources of into like the ZR-1netrestistry "How To" section and other forums
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_howto.htm

[Corbusa]

YES HE HAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! perfect.!!! I'm reading a bunch of his info now..
But It would still be cool to have it on paper.. ( or I guess I could just take notes from his info and keep it in the vette.) I just know my luck the 1 time I have an issue the site will be down or my phone will be dead hard to beat a manual. BUT yes Dynomite has done a great job and it is really appreciated :)

[Kevin]

these cars have always had little niggles that have made owning them trying. and now at 23 years old...they're just getting tiring

[Moonlk]

I have been reading through the solutions section but I think I might wait until it happens again and pay more attention to the symptoms. Then I may have a better idea of which system is giving trouble. I will also be hoping that it starts after waiting again.

[Demps]

I just beat this problem myself. There was a time I was ready to leave the car.

There are a lot of great posts. Let me somewhat simplify this-- it is either an electrical issue to the starter or a mechanical issue of the starter itself.

Prelim analysis and initial vector(disclaimer for keyboard warriors: this is my experience and may not be all inclusive): security light during normal start attempt=VATS. No voltage drop during normal start attempt when turning key, no security light, and clutch depressed=clutch switch. Finally, and the fun part, listen to the starter revolutions cold vs hot. Mine turned out to be a bad starter and obvious starter rev decrease when hot. Here's the last check: If there is no security light, voltage decrease with clutch depressed(watch voltage gauge, turn key with car OUT of gear, clutch not depressed, then depress with key turned) no start=bad starter or poor voltage to starter. How to diagnose:

Step 1: get a multimeter (auto ranging if you don't have one). Make a small hole in the big purple wire behind ECM to starter.

Step 2: when car doesn't start with indications pointing to starter: Measure voltage at big purple (behind ECM) wire going to starter. It can be <12V and confuse the issue. If close to 12V, it's the starter. If less, there are great posts on how to diagnose feeder relay/connection/switch losses.

Ted

[scottfab]

I just beat this problem myself. There was a time I was ready to leave the car.

There are a lot of great posts. Let me somewhat simplify this-- it is either an electrical issue to the starter or a mechanical issue of the starter itself.

Prelim analysis and initial vector(disclaimer for keyboard warriors: this is my experience and may not be all inclusive): security light during normal start attempt=VATS. No voltage drop during normal start attempt when turning key, no security light, and clutch depressed=clutch switch. Finally, and the fun part, listen to the starter revolutions cold vs hot. Mine turned out to be a bad starter and obvious starter rev decrease when hot. Here's the last check: If there is no security light, voltage decrease with clutch depressed(watch voltage gauge, turn key with car OUT of gear, clutch not depressed, then depress with key turned) no start=bad starter or poor voltage to starter. How to diagnose:

Step 1: get a multimeter (auto ranging if you don't have one). Make a small hole in the big purple wire behind ECM to starter.

Step 2: when car doesn't start with indications pointing to starter: Measure voltage at big purple (behind ECM) wire going to starter. It can be <12V and confuse the issue. If close to 12V, it's the starter. If less, there are great posts on how to diagnose feeder relay/connection/switch losses.

Ted

I would not advise anyone turning the key first before pressing the clutch in especially on a 90 MY. This puts a great deal of current through the switch contacts and they arc when contact is made. The arcing destroys the switch pretty fast. Not the greatest design. The work around and way of making the switch last is to always depress the switch before turning the key.