Fixing a lexan top

[LGAFF]

heads up, if you break a back corner on one of these, some Loctite glue and sandpaper will bring it back:

1)clean the surface

2)apply generous amounts of superglue(loctite) to all of the mating surface....not your fingers....and certainly don't take a piss until you verify you are in the clear(sans glue) Windshield repair kit glue would work also I assume....hell might even see if safelite or someone can glue it for you

**fill in voids you want it to be built up slightly, don't drip it all over but you need enough over the crack to sand down and hide it....the glue will actual melt the top together...


2)make sure you hold it in place for 10 seconds......

cure for 30 minutes to an hour..overnight is even better

3)now time to blend it in

*800 grit wetsand(220 if the broken piece is misalinged and needs to be sanded down...go to 800 after 200
*1500 grit....
*rubbing or jump to polishing compound...


While this is not a perfect match on color....the sanding may be too smooth and buffing may even out the color across the panel, the repaired area actually seems smoother and shiney....around the edge of the top frame you will not be able to see the actual crack repair....for a driver its acceptable

Will let you know the long term wear on this and if it holds, I was pleasantly surprised.

[Paul Workman]

heads up, if you break a back corner on one of these, some Loctite glue and sandpaper will bring it back:

1)clean the surface

2)apply generous amounts of superglue(loctite) to all of the mating surface....not your fingers....and certainly don't take a piss until you verify you are in the clear(sans glue) Windshield repair kit glue would work also I assume....hell might even see if safelite or someone can glue it for you

**fill in voids you want it to be built up slightly, don't drip it all over but you need enough over the crack to sand down and hide it....the glue will actual melt the top together...


2)make sure you hold it in place for 10 seconds......

cure for 30 minutes to an hour..overnight is even better

3)now time to blend it in

*800 grit wetsand(220 if the broken piece is misalinged and needs to be sanded down...go to 800 after 200
*1500 grit....
*rubbing or jump to polishing compound...


While this is not a perfect match on color....the sanding may be too smooth and buffing may even out the color across the panel, the repaired area actually seems smoother and shiney....around the edge of the top frame you will not be able to see the actual crack repair....for a driver its acceptable

Will let you know the long term wear on this and if it holds, I was pleasantly surprised.

Excellent! And, timely - as I have a corner on my top that was broken (when I got the car), and I've never used the top for that reason.

Lee, may we use this "how to" as an article for HOTB???;)

P.

[WVZR-1]

It would be good if this will last but it would seem unlikely. I had considered a similar repair but also considered positioning the broken to the rest of the top with a couple dowels for support. I actually wanted to confirm the actual material the top is constructed of, we read and call it Lexan but I've never investigated that to confirm.

I had considered using Weld-On IPS-40. What is the Loctite glue used by Lee!

IPS #40 properties:

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Lexan_Polycarbonate_Glue/PLEXIGLASS-GLUE-ADHESIVE-IPS40-PT

[LGAFF]

Lets see how it works out, from some of the posts I have read superglue contains the exact material in the top and also melts the 2 pieces together...will need to see how it reacts to heat, cold, etc.....

[ghlkal]

The "clear" top on my 85 C4 had both edges cracked by the PO. Obviously he lifted up on the top without first pulling it out of the rear hatch guides.

IIRC, I used some type of superglue for plastic. I didn't sand the top like Lee did so it doesn't look pretty, but it has held up since 2005.

The top doesn't leak and it hasn't come apart after 7 years. I will admit that I'm a little careful loading it in the hatch, but it's held up well.

[LGAFF]

you would be shocked to see how well it turned out with sanding

[LGAFF]

I wonder if you applied vacuum to the inside of the top if you could fix a crack across a top...you could then use "night shades" to paint the top

Hmmm

[LGAFF]

This is what the underside looks like, I wanted to show the size of the pieces broken off, the pieces were also mis-shaped from bending.......

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN4711.jpg

[LGAFF]

there is still a slight ridge, not even enough to catch your nail that I need to sand down...you can see some white poslishing compound in it....but the top was broken in 2 pieces and extends from 1/2" from the edge to about 3" in......I also need to buff the rest of the top to even out the color....

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN4712.jpg

[LGAFF]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN4710-1.jpg

[WVZR-1]

It certainly looks very good, in your travels and your work if you prepped it you might ask a shop if they'd clear it for you. I've done one in PPG urethane and had I spent a little more time prepping it I believe I could have eliminated the crazing. The top I did had some light scratches and that was all I was concerned with. After it was done I looked to the sky with it in hand and I'd guess maybe 90% of the crazing was gone.

The original VIN #'d top for my '90 has a small piece missing on the rear that doesn't effect sealing and I've contemplated a fix for years. I think the top was broken by the original owner likely very soon after purchase. It appears "as new" !