GB: DRM Coilovers

[Daniel_Mc]

Hey Everyone I have been working with Doug Rippie Motorsports (DRM) for a group purchase on the coilover suspension. The DRM coilover set up gives the C4 Race car-level handling, adjustable ride height, and a more controlled ride. The coilover suspension allows each corner of the Corvette’s suspension to react independently by eliminating the leaf springs completely. The DRM coilover suspension can be installed using existing stock shock absorbers or new Bilstein shocks. The group purchase will be for the FX3 or non-FX3 kit without shocks. Other shops sell similar set ups ranging from 2300 as high as 5000. The DRM price for this purchase is 800 shipping included. Here is what you will get:
Four (4) Hyperco coil springs, four (4) billet aluminum top hats, four (4) adjustable sleeves, spanner wrench and polyurethane shock mount bushings. (Shocks not included)
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7465/phpthumbgeneratedthumbneq.jpg

Also DRM has offered the trailing arm and camber brackets at a significant discount. The trailing Brackets 70.00 shipped and the camber brackets at 80.00 shipped.

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/3530/camber.jpg


http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3505/trailing.jpg

Please let me know if you are interested this is a onetime only deal and we must have all orders placed by July 27th. Please let me know if you have any questions!

Also our very own Carter (Carter200) makes a very trick set up for the coilover that will allow you to install the coilovers in much less time and best of all keep from all the cutting that was required before. He sells the front sway bar relocation brackets and the rear shock mounting brackets. Very minimum modification to the car is required if using these brackets. Please contact Carter directly if you are interested in the brackets (I would strongly recommend them).

Cheers,
Daniel

[ZZZZZR1]

Daniel

Wow this is a super deal!!

I want trailing arm and camber brackets.

How much are Carter's pieces? (front / rear)

Show a picture Carter so people can see your work!


:cheers:

David

[mike100]

The trailing arm brackets do work- takes some front end dive out of the car and helps keep the rear brakes from locking up around corners if you find yourself applying brakes in one.

slightly firmer road feel on the rear is the side effect. I will probably never change back to stock- most people would like these brackets IMO.

[FU]

most people would like these brackets IMO.

Good for straight line traction too. The brackets can be used with the stock suspension component's also.

Nice Group Purchase price :thumbsup:

[tf95ZR1]

Great Deal!
Do you know what the spring rates are?
And how are they different FX3 vrs. Non-FX3?

[VetteMed]

do the stock FX3 shocks require modification / machining to install the coilover kit?

[tf95ZR1]

do the stock FX3 shocks require modification / machining to install the coilover kit?

That's exactly what I PM'd Daniel about. I vaguely remember having
to send your shocks to Bilstein in San Diego for modification.

[Demps]

Local shop can groove shocks for ring. Or can send to Bilstein for rebuild and groove.

Only have to notch rear frame opening and use aftermarket front sway bar bushing mount with Carter's excellent stuff.

Ted

[mgg]

I would also be curious as to who is doing the shock mod. If it is Bilstein, I am curious how long they would have the shocks before they would be returned. I have this set up on my race car nad it has worked very well. I have always wanted to install these on my ZR-1. Trying to get these cars to sit right with the longer rear bolts and the wedges up front can be maddening. I seem to remember the brackets Carter manufactured to mount the front sway bar so you can eliminate the grinding and cutting. It has been so long since I installed these I cannot remember what I had to do. I would appreciate if anyone knows how long Bilstein would have the shocks for before they are returned, or if hter is an alternative.

[Daniel_Mc]

I want trailing arm and camber brackets.

How much are Carter's pieces? (front / rear)


David,
You can do just brackets you'll have to get with Carter on the price I do not know what he sells them for.

The trailing arm brackets do work- takes some front end dive out of the car and helps keep the rear brakes from locking up around corners if you find yourself applying brakes in one.

slightly firmer road feel on the rear is the side effect. I will probably never change back to stock- most people would like these brackets IMO.

Mike,
You are right the car feels much more planted in the corner and transfers the power with less drama. They are very well worth the money even if you are not doing coilovers.

Good for straight line traction too

I have never been down a drag strip so I can't comment on that but it does make a difference on the street or road course.

Great Deal!
Do you know what the spring rates are?
And how are they different FX vs. Non-FX?

Yes, standard rates for the ZR-1 are 425 fronts and 275 rears but DRM will do whatever rate you want. The FX3/non-FX3 does not make a different on the spring rate.

do the stock FX3 shocks require modification / machining to install the coilover kit?

Yes, They require a small grove to be machined about an inch from the bottom of the shock so that a snap ring can be installed for the sleeve to rest on. You can send to DRM or have a local machine shop install.

Daniel

[Blue Flame Restorations]

I've got them on my car. Love the firm feel.

[Daniel_Mc]

That's exactly what I PM'd Daniel about. I vaguely remember having
to send your shocks to Bilstein in San Diego for modification.

IDK if Bilstein could do this I sent them to DRM when i had it done but any machine shop could handle.

Local shop can groove shocks for ring. Or can send to Bilstein for rebuild and groove.

Only have to notch rear frame opening and use aftermarket front sway bar bushing mount with Carter's excellent stuff.

Ted


If you rebuild I would suggest a revalve to Marocco specs it is a much better feel, firm but good.

And yes Carters stuff saves you a major PITA on install I wish he was around when I did the ones on our car.

I would appreciate if anyone knows how long Bilstein would have the shocks for before they are returned

The ones on the 89 were shot I had them revalved and rebuilt and back in my hand within 2 weeks.

Daniel

[batchman]

Paging Carter - while I can't go coilover due to class restrictions I could sure use something adjustable for my front sway bar. Current bar doesn't fit real well so I get some preload and the links are not real happy.

Whaddya got?

Not to mess up the thread but I'm looking forward to new springs and Penskes soon. Using a threaded insert on the front spring allows height adjustment (ie corner weighting).

Cheers,
- Jeff

[carter200]

Batchman,
I'm the "bling" and custom items machinist for the site and currently only machine the kit for relocating the sway bar for a better angle with coil overs.
I'd ask the "experts" that do auto crossing for their input. We have an excellant bunch of guys on the site who will help you out for sure. If you ned custom items or any of the many items I make feel free to PM me. You can look in the "solutions" section of the forum for a smatering of items I make. Thanks for asking, Carter :cheers:

[carter200]

Price for front kit is $110 shipped in the lower 48.

Price for rear kit is $125 shipped in the lower 48.

Order both at once and the total is reduced to $220 shipped in the lower 48.

Overseas shipping will be a fraction more....

[ZZZZZR1]

Price for front kit is $110 shipped in the lower 48.

Price for rear kit is $125 shipped in the lower 48.

Order both at once and the total is reduced to $220 shipped in the lower 48.

Overseas shipping will be a fraction more....

Sweet. Thanks carter!

Could you post pictures? I have 2 that don't visit the forum and are interested

Thanks!

David

[carter200]

Don't have any handy but if you do a search you'll find the coilover thread that Ted did and it has pics and a great write up on the kit. Thanks and tell them I'll be doing a run of the brackets ( front and rear) in about 2 weeks then it'll be a while as I'm super busy making other struff right now. Thanks again, Carter :cheers:

[tomtom72]

Man Daniel, that is a great deal! :worship:

Too bad I live in a place where coil overs are just not ideally suited to the roads.....okay so now I'm wondering if I select the right spring rates for my road conditions will I have a 'liveable car'????? I have no idea how to go about determining what spring rate would be suitable for mostly broken, and abused road surfaces. Anyone care to point me in the correct direction?:confused:
TIA:thumbsup:


In any event, put me in for the two sets of brackets for the rear suspension. How and whom do I send the cash to??? My cash is up right now!

:cheers:
Tom

[ZZZZZR1]

Here is a link to demps coil over install and Carter's brackets!


http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6104&highlight=Coil



:cheers:


David

[Daniel_Mc]

David thanks for the link!

In any event, put me in for the two sets of brackets for the rear suspension. How and whom do I send the cash to??? My cash is up right now!

Tom,

I have your name down just call DRM directly and ask for Randy Rippie and let him know you are part of the group buy. You pay DRM directly I will take care of the rest. DRM 763-658-6109

Ok, I have 3 complete set ups confirmed and 3 just brackets. Have I missed anyone?

Who else :thumbsup:

Daniel

[batchman]

Batchman,
I'm the "bling" and custom items machinist for the site and currently only machine the kit for relocating the sway bar for a better angle with coil overs.

Here is a link to demps coil over install and Carter's brackets!

Carter, I've admired your work for some time, but thanks to David's link I see that the relocation is at the frame. My issues are at the end links. What I need should be easy, two "U" shapes with threaded rod between (like a turnbuckle), but I have not yet been able to find the right types of hardware in sizes/specs that my noggin can decode.

Thanks, guys - and enjoy your CO kits - pretty cool you can do that and keep the FX3 too. I'd keep an eye on the rear lower pin though, single shear and potholes could be a concern with the shock mount now the load path (where before it was just damping). It is pretty stout though and this is an old argument without much evidence of failures that I've seen.

Best,
- Jeff

[carter200]

Batchman,
You are welcome and thanks for the kind words. If you need anything machined or custom made keep me in mind. :cheers:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Daniel, Daniel, Daniel...........why are you doing this to me? Let me think about this great deal. I have been wanting to do this.

Craig

[LGAFF]

A DRM prepped LT-1 car ran the slalom at 72.1MPH....when you consider a ZR-1 has bigger rears.......I am guessing a properly set up DRM set puts you pack in Supercar handling territory

[DaveK]

Just thought I'd add a link to a recent conversation about coilovers.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-general-discussion/3081360-pics-from-my-front-poly-bushings-and-bilstein-coil-over-conversion-project.html (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-general-discussion/3081360-pics-from-my-front-poly-bushings-and-bilstein-coil-over-conversion-project.html)

:)

I'd love to get in on the GB it sounds like a great deal, but I've already well spent this years budget!

Dave

[ZZZZZR1]

Just thought I'd add a link to a recent conversation about coilovers.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-general-discussion/3081360-pics-from-my-front-poly-bushings-and-bilstein-coil-over-conversion-project.html (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-general-discussion/3081360-pics-from-my-front-poly-bushings-and-bilstein-coil-over-conversion-project.html)

:)

I'd love to get in on the GB it sounds like a great deal, but I've already well spent this years budget!

Dave

Dave

Saw that link too and would have loved to post it but couldn't.

Now WE can!!!!!

:saluting:

David

[XfireZ51]

I did the poly front end this year. Replaced upper and lower ball joints also. I don't think about the steering now. It's something I just assume. Tracks great.
Some suggested the poly would cause harshness. I think it makes everything tight.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

I agree with Dom. My car has the DRM Coil-overs and poly bushings. I bought it that way and got lucky. The ride is firm but not harsh. There is not a rebound feel or any bounce when hitting a dip in the road. Just a firm feel. I'm really surprised at how nice it rides, for my taste.

[Daniel_Mc]

Daniel, Daniel, Daniel...........why are you doing this to me? Let me think about this great deal. I have been wanting to do this.

Craig

Craig, I have already made a call I am going to see if we can do something for you. I'll be in touch.

A DRM prepped LT-1 car ran the slalom at 72.1MPH....when you consider a ZR-1 has bigger rears.......I am guessing a properly set up DRM set puts you pack in Supercar handling territory

IDK about LT1 but our L98 car gave them hell at track days with this set up. We would get dusted in the strait but the corners were a different story. Add some Hoosier slicks and 315's and the car is phenomenal.

I did the poly front end this year. Replaced upper and lower ball joints also. I don't think about the steering now. It's something I just assume. Tracks great.
Some suggested the poly would cause harshness. I think it makes everything tight.

I would have to agree the poly doesn't make it harsh at all and really makes the car feel tight. The Z has 78K on it and as far as I know has had poly since day one it’s held up great.

[Daniel_Mc]

Man Daniel, that is a great deal! :worship:

Too bad I live in a place where coil overs are just not ideally suited to the roads.....okay so now I'm wondering if I select the right spring rates for my road conditions will I have a 'liveable car'????? I have no idea how to go about determining what spring rate would be suitable for mostly broken, and abused road surfaces. Anyone care to point me in the correct direction?:confused:
TIA:thumbsup:

Tom,

In thinking about this when you say "not ideally suited to the roads" are you worried about harshness with bumps or the lower ride hight? The roads were I live suck (for the lack of a better word). The ride hight is all that I worry about going down the road. I have them cranked pretty low so that is my problem but it is fully adjustible so if you wanted you could crank them up and have a stock ride height or almost stock. Maybe talk with DRM about a different spring combo? I use Michael Eddy at HRP World (http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_cat_id=504&tpc=Hyperco_Springs_and_Hydraulic_Spring_Perchs&action=category)for the springs on the track car and have played with different rates. I ended up back with the ones that came with the original set up :censored:

Daniel

[XfireZ51]

Tom,

In thinking about this when you say "not ideally suited to the roads" are you worried about harshness with bumps or the lower ride hight? The roads were I live suck (for the lack of a better word). The ride hight is all that I worry about going down the road. I have them cranked pretty low so that is my problem but it is fully adjustible so if you wanted you could crank them up and have a stock ride height or almost stock. Maybe talk with DRM about a different spring combo? I use Michael Eddy at HRP World (http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_cat_id=504&tpc=Hyperco_Springs_and_Hydraulic_Spring_Perchs&action=category)for the springs on the track car and have played with different rates. I ended up back with the ones that came with the original set up :censored:

Daniel

Daniel,

I went w 425/275 Hypercoils. What did you end up with?

[Daniel_Mc]

Daniel,

I went w 425/275 Hypercoils. What did you end up with?

For the 89 Track car it is 400 front 275 rear I went as high as 500 front and 400 rear it "felt" fast but my lap times showed differently also it wore the tires much quicker. The ZR-1 is running the same as you 425/275. All were hyperco springs.

Daniel

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, I have already made a call I am going to see if we can do something for you. I'll be in touch.


Daniel,

Thanks. I think you meant about the shipping? I have a California zip code so same like shipping in the US to my military address, but it will have to be USPS.

It is FPO, AP 96347

Depending how big and the weight of the box, parcel post would be lowest cost as I don't imagine it fits even in several priority mail flat rate boxes.

Craig

[tomtom72]

Daniel, thanks for your time on this.:thumbsup: It's both! Even stock you have to very wary of where you intend to drive to escape to somewhere that you'd like to drive! And that's with a stock ride height!

I am grateful for the advice. I'm just going to go with the brackets. The volume never goes down, so the wear never gets less, so the repairs never cease. You should see how deep the truck ruts get before they get repaired! Never mind all the other stuff.:sign10::cry::sign10:

:cheers:
Tom

[Daniel_Mc]

Daniel,

Thanks. I think you meant about the shipping? I have a California zip code so same like shipping in the US to my military address, but it will have to be USPS.

It is FPO, AP 96347

Depending how big and the weight of the box, parcel post would be lowest cost as I don't imagine it fits even in several priority mail flat rate boxes.

Craig


Craig you have a PM about the shipping.

Daniel, thanks for your time on this.:thumbsup: It's both! Even stock you have to very wary of where you intend to drive to escape to somewhere that you'd like to drive! And that's with a stock ride height!

I am grateful for the advice. I'm just going to go with the brackets. The volume never goes down, so the wear never gets less, so the repairs never cease. You should see how deep the truck ruts get before they get repaired! Never mind all the other stuff.:sign10::cry::sign10:

:cheers:
Tom

Tom,
You are very welcome! You are going to notice a difference with the brackets :thumbsup:

Daniel

[mgg]

Daniel, after reading some of the installation info, I am concerned about one issue. Did I read correctly that you could not adjust the ride height on the rear without removing the FX3 connector. I have non fx3 on my race car and height adjust is not a problem with just using the spanner wrench. I am concerned about this issue. It would seem to me to be a big problem weith setting the ride height then. Am I confused or am I not reading this correctly. Please give me you feedback as I am looking to jump on this coilover group prchase as well. Thanks!

[XfireZ51]

Daniel, after reading some of the installation info, I am concerned about one issue. Did I read correctly that you could not adjust the ride height on the rear without removing the FX3 connector. I have non fx3 on my race car and height adjust is not a problem with just using the spanner wrench. I am concerned about this issue. It would seem to me to be a big problem weith setting the ride height then. Am I confused or am I not reading this correctly. Please give me you feedback as I am looking to jump on this coilover group prchase as well. Thanks!

Not true. I adjusted my ride height w a spanner after having installed the coilovers. The one issue I had in the rear units was positioning the springs so that they cleared the half shafts. The springs sit asymmetrically and can be rotated so as to provide enough clearance.

[GOLDCYLON]

Daniel, after reading some of the installation info, I am concerned about one issue. Did I read correctly that you could not adjust the ride height on the rear without removing the FX3 connector. I have non fx3 on my race car and height adjust is not a problem with just using the spanner wrench. I am concerned about this issue. It would seem to me to be a big problem weith setting the ride height then. Am I confused or am I not reading this correctly. Please give me you feedback as I am looking to jump on this coilover group prchase as well. Thanks!


A complete falsehood. Im running the FX-3 and the DRM coilovers on all four corners on my ride. It took a few adjustments on the rear as well before I was satisfied and the FX-3 system was connected the entire time. GC

[GOLDCYLON]

Not true. I adjusted my ride height w a spanner after having installed the coilovers. The one issue I had in the rear units was positioning the springs so that they cleared the half shafts. The springs sit asymmetrically and can be rotated so as to provide enough clearance.

Dom is correct space is problem also with the original Dogbone trailing arms which is also why most of us have upgraded the trailing arms to the Banski Heim-Joint trailing arms.

[GOLDCYLON]

I did the poly front end this year. Replaced upper and lower ball joints also. I don't think about the steering now. It's something I just assume. Tracks great.
Some suggested the poly would cause harshness. I think it makes everything tight.


Yep I did Poly eveything and replaced the uppers and lowers. Its not harsh its mega tight as Dom Suggests.

Here is my thread on the project. I just reloaded ALL the photos on that project.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11907&highlight=coilovers

[Daniel_Mc]

Daniel, after reading some of the installation info, I am concerned about one issue. Did I read correctly that you could not adjust the ride height on the rear without removing the FX3 connector. I have non fx3 on my race car and height adjust is not a problem with just using the spanner wrench. I am concerned about this issue. It would seem to me to be a big problem weith setting the ride height then. Am I confused or am I not reading this correctly. Please give me you feedback as I am looking to jump on this coilover group prchase as well. Thanks!

mgg,

I have no idea what they were talking about? Do you have a link? I still have the FX3 on the track car and it works perfectly also height adjustment is not an issue at all. You will adjust the coilovers just as you would the non-FX3's. If you are interested in the group purchase just send me your name and what you would like (i.e. coilovers and brackets, just coilovers, just brackets) I'll get your name to DRM and you can place the order through them.

Not true. I adjusted my ride height w a spanner after having installed the coilovers. The one issue I had in the rear units was positioning the springs so that they cleared the half shafts. The springs sit asymmetrically and can be rotated so as to provide enough clearance.

Did you relocate the upper shock mounting points on the rear? This will keep the shock from coming into contact with the half shaft.

Daniel

[GOLDCYLON]

Did you relocate the upper shock mounting points on the rear? This will keep the shock from coming into contact with the half shaft. Daniel

I did because my rears were mounted the old school way by notching forward. I reloaded my photos in my old thread you should be able to see this. At the time Carters rear bracket was still in early stages of production so I had to use the old school method. You can see the relocation in a couple of photos. I still however had to replace the dog bone trailing arms. GC

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11907&highlight=coilovers

[XfireZ51]

Did you relocate the upper shock mounting points on the rear? This will keep the shock from coming into contact with the half shaft.

Daniel

Yes, the re-lo brackets were part of the installation but the clearance was VERY close. In fact, I had a telltale wear band around the half shaft. We were able to rotate the spring to provide enough clearance. I didn't find any issue in dog bone clearance as GC experienced.

[ZZZZZR1]

Daniel

Are the qualities limited?

I have another person who doesn't come on the forums who is VERY interested....


Thanks

David

[Daniel_Mc]

I did because my rears were mounted the old school way by notching forward. I reloaded my photos in my old thread you should be able to see this. At the time Carters rear bracket was still in early stages of production so I had to use the old school method. You can see the relocation in a couple of photos. I still however had to replace the dog bone trailing arms. GC

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....ight=coilovers

GC ours are installed the old way as well. It would have been nice to have the brackets at the time but oh well :-({|= Thank you for posting a link to the install on your Z I think this will help some understand what all is involved.

Yes, the re-lo brackets were part of the installation but the clearance was VERY close. In fact, I had a telltale wear band around the half shaft. We were able to rotate the spring to provide enough clearance. I didn't find any issue in dog bone clearance as GC experienced.

Maybe it is just me but I have never had an issue with the trailing are (dog bone) clearance. I have installed on the 89 and on a friend’s 92 no issues what so ever.

Daniel

Are the qualities limited?

I have another person who doesn't come on the forums who is VERY interested....


Thanks

David

David,
Yes, we are limited on this.

Daniel

[youngrm]

GB still open?

If so I'd to sign up.

Thank you
ry

[GOLDCYLON]

Maybe it is just me but I have never had an issue with the trailing are (dog bone) clearance. I have installed on the 89 and on a friend’s 92 no issues what so ever. Daniel

You didnt upgrade to poly bushings. That why they are too fat. Poly adds more girth. Im not sayimg they wont fit they are just real close. GC

[Daniel_Mc]

You didnt upgrade to poly bushings. That why they are too fat. Poly adds more girth. Im not sayimg they wont fit they are just real close. GC

GC,
The 92 was not upgraded but the 89 is all poly we did that at the same time as the coilover install.


GB still open?

If so I'd to sign up.

Thank you
ry

Yes, we have a few more please email me your info and I'll get you all set up.

Daniel

dmcguffee@gmail.com

[GOLDCYLON]

GC,
The 92 was not upgraded but the 89 is all poly we did that at the same time as the coilover install.



Yes, we have a few more please email me your info and I'll get you all set up.

Daniel

dmcguffee@gmail.com

Was the 89 a WB ZR-1 LOL ? I'm just saying this was my experience and poly kits are not all equal. Just for situational awareness.

[Daniel_Mc]

Was the 89 a WB ZR-1 LOL ? I'm just saying this was my experience and poly kits are not all equal. Just for situational awareness.

No, both were just regular Corvettes. I'd never hack up a 89 Z like I have this 89 :-D

Daniel

[Daniel_Mc]

Those that have committed to the group purchase thus far I have given your info to DRM please call DRM directly@ 763-658-6109 ask for Randy Rippie and let him know you are part of the group purchase. Randy will handle payment and get shipping all set up. We have just a few spots remaining so if you are interested please let me know ASAP. We will leave this open until this Friday the 27th unless all sets are sold before then.

Thanks,

Daniel

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Those that have committed to the group purchase thus far I have given your info to DRM please call DRM directly@ 763-658-6109 ask for Randy Rippie and let him know you are part of the group purchase. Randy will handle payment and get shipping all set up. We have just a few spots remaining so if you are interested please let me know ASAP. We will leave this open until this Friday the 27th unless all sets are sold before then.

Thanks,

Daniel
Daniel,
Randy has been trying to get in touch with me but not able to contact him until I return tonight or tomorrow. I sent a PM to him via other forum as well as via their website. I can only participate if they are willing to ship via USPS so I'll follow up. Thanks again for hooking us up with this deal.

Craig :handshak:

[carter200]

So far I have the following to get front and rear CT Machining coil over brackets:

CJ - Paid
Kris - Paid
Mike Geyer - Paid
Myles Fujinaka - Paid
Youngrm - will pay on 6th per email notice
ZR ROG - Paid
tf95ZR1 - Paid
Anyone else wanting the brackets contact me thru PM here or email. Thanks, Carter :cheers:

I just found out from Daniel that he has a list that I was not aware of and he'll provide me with the final list at the end of the day on the 27th. I'll update the above list then. Thanks to Daniel and all who are purchasing from CT Machining.

[GOLDCYLON]

So far I have the following to get front and rear CT Machining coil over brackets:

CJ - Paid
Kris - Paid
Mike Geyer - Ck in da mail
Myles Fujinaka - Paid

Anyone else wanting the brackets contact me thru PM here or email. Thanks, Carter :cheers:

I just found out from Daniel that he has a list that I was not aware of and he'll provide me with the final list at the end of the day on the 27th. I'll update the above list then. Thanks to Daniel and all who are purchasing from CT Machining.

Carter any update on the mirror bracket mod? :cheers:

[carter200]

Carter any update on the mirror bracket mod? :cheers:

Working on it as I type..................

[GOLDCYLON]

Working on it as I type..................

Thanks man !!! Ive been waiting on that mirror mod ;)

[Daniel_Mc]

Thanks man !!! Ive been waiting on that mirror mod ;)


Ok... You guys have me wondering WTH is the Mirror Mod? :confused:

Daniel

[Ronstar]

I just joined the forum and not a "full" member yet. Can I get in on this GB? I'd be interested in brackets and all.
Ron Thompson
1990 #2620

[GOLDCYLON]

Ok... You guys have me wondering WTH is the Mirror Mod? :confused:

Daniel

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17529&highlight=mirror

[carter200]

Here is what I just posted on GC's link:

OK, guys I appologize for taking so long. Was not aware there was this thread going on and have been busy on other peoples stuff with the occasional look at Andrews idea and ponder.
Well, for all you chomping at the bit I have officially started on the adapter today and have it disected, programmed and the test one half way finished. Hope to be done tomorrow if doo doo does not happen.
Hang in there just a wee bit longer it'll be worth it http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[tomtom72]

Okay I am just checking in with you Daniel to let you know that I'm all squared up with DRM.

Thank you for taking the time to set this up for us!:handshak:

:cheers:
Tom

[ZZZZZR1]

I just joined the forum and not a "full" member yet. Can I get in on this GB? I'd be interested in brackets and all.
Ron Thompson
1990 #2620

Ron

There is a club surcharge for non members!!! :cry:

I have these coil overs and love them!!!!!

Great price

:cheers:

David

[Daniel_Mc]

I just joined the forum and not a "full" member yet. Can I get in on this GB? I'd be interested in brackets and all.
Ron Thompson
1990 #2620

Ron,

You sure can I will pass your information to Rippie today please call before the 27th (tomorrow) for payment and shipping from Rippie 763-658-6109 make sure and ask for Randy and let him know that you are part of this group purchase or else you will not get the discount!!!

Daniel

[Daniel_Mc]

Thank you to everyone that took part in this. This Group Purchase went over larger than what myself or DRM could have imagined. As of this morning we have only 5 people that have paid. If you contacted me and said you were doing this Group Purchase please call DRM @ 763-658-6109 ASAP and arrange payment and shipping. I will start emailing shortly those that signed up on the status and other information.

Thanks,

Daniel

** I had 15 sign up for either coilovers, brackets, carter brackets, or some combination of the 3. This was well more than what I ever expected to do thanks to everyone again!!!

[carter200]

Thanks all who ordered and please pay soon so I can order materials, thanks again, Carter :cheers:

[Daniel_Mc]

For those that took part in this group buy here's a quick update. Hyperco springs have been on backorder and DRM was told 2 week that and in speaking with Randy he said realistically more like 3 weeks. Well here we are 3 weeks later I have spoken with DRM and they have some in route to them so the shipping process will take place very soon.

Daniel

[tf95ZR1]

Any updates?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

For those that took part in this group buy here's a quick update. Hyperco springs have been on backorder and DRM was told 2 week that and in speaking with Randy he said realistically more like 3 weeks. Well here we are 3 weeks later I have spoken with DRM and they have some in route to them so the shipping process will take place very soon.

Daniel

Hi Daniel,

I am still on hold waiting for Randy to get some in and provide the shipping options once he has a set to box and weigh to ship via USPS.

Thanks again,

Craig

[carter200]

Any updates?

All materials came in and I have been able to begin on the front and rear brackets and will hopefully be mailing out in 10 days. Thanks for hanging in there............:cheers:

[Daniel_Mc]

Any updates?

Hyperco is still dragging and DRM has not recieved the coil springs as of late last week. Everything is ready to ship at DRM just waiting on the springs. I will make a call today and get some dates. Sorry for the delay everyone.

Daniel

[tf95ZR1]

No problem.
No hurry.
Just wonderin'
:cheers:

[tf95ZR1]

Any updates?
:fahne:

[carter200]

Ted,
You received it: Your Item's Status Your item was delivered at 12:25 pm on October 26, 2012 in NORTHRIDGE, CA 91324

[carter200]

Ted,
I'll contact you when the other items are finished. :cheers:

[GOLDCYLON]

You fellars are going to love this mod. GC

[tf95ZR1]

Misunderstanding:
Yep, I received your stuff, Carter.
But all the coilover mounting brackets in the world don't do any
good without the coilovers!

HYPERCO?

:icon_scra:dontknow:

[carter200]

Damn, Ted.........you scared me on that one :sign12:

[Daniel_Mc]

Yes, HYPERCO is dragging butt! DRM has everything else ready and is still waiting on springs. Hyperco said the hold up is due to them moving the production shop but at this point IDK WHAT the hold up could be. I will call again on Monday when I get back in.

Thanks again for everyone that ordered!

Daniel

[cvette98pacecar]

Yes, HYPERCO is dragging butt! DRM has everything else ready and is still waiting on springs. Hyperco said the hold up is due to them moving the production shop but at this point IDK WHAT the hold up could be. I will call again on Monday when I get back in.

Thanks again for everyone that ordered!

Daniel

Tell Randy I am hoping to get the Shocks off thanksgiving week.

[Daniel_Mc]

Tell Randy I am hoping to get the Shocks off thanksgiving week.

Robert,

I've spoken to Randy no rush on your end he will be ready when you are.

Daniel

[Daniel_Mc]

DRM received the remainder of the Hyperco springs today everyone remaining your order will be shipped today or tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone for your patience in all of this!

Daniel

[G8nightman]

Are these still available?

[Daniel_Mc]

Sorry but not at this time. I will try to work up another one mid 2013 if we have enough interest.

Daniel

[carter200]

Sorry but not at this time. I will try to work up another one mid 2013 if we have enough interest.

Daniel

Daniel,
I'll start doing the brackets so by the time you are ready for the bulk buy I'll have my end ready. ;)

[Fully Vetted]

If you're starting a list to gauge interest put me down.

[pantera1683]

Daniel,
I'll start doing the brackets so by the time you are ready for the bulk buy I'll have my end ready. ;)

Hey Carter, all your parts worked perfectly for my install. The parts made the changeover to coilovers very easy.

[mgg]

Hey Pantera, glad to hear you finished. I do have a couple of questions though. I just sent my shocks to DRM for the machining. I am curious, I have also purchased Carters brackets etc. and even though the sway bar on the ZR-1 is listed as 26mm it show in several threads that they purchased an energy suspension 1"/25mm sway bar bushing and mounting bracket. I am wondering if you used that one. Also I don't understand why you have to remove the tie rods. I remember doing this on my race car ( 1990 C4) and I did not remove the tie rods for the install. Any feedback would be appreciated. Car is going up on jack stands today hopefully. It was a while ago that I did them on my other C4 and my memory is shot. Thanks.

[pantera1683]

Hey Pantera, glad to hear you finished. I do have a couple of questions though. I just sent my shocks to DRM for the machining. I am curious, I have also purchased Carters brackets etc. and even though the sway bar on the ZR-1 is listed as 26mm it show in several threads that they purchased an energy suspension 1"/25mm sway bar bushing and mounting bracket. I am wondering if you used that one.

Yes I used the Energy Suspension Brackets and the supplied bushings for the sway bars. Be sure to liberally grease the bushings were they contact the bars. I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease.

Also I don't understand why you have to remove the tie rods. I remember doing this on my race car ( 1990 C4) and I did not remove the tie rods for the install. Any feedback would be appreciated.

You have to remove the tie rods so you can manipulate the lower control arm enough to remove the leaf spring. I have poly bushings on my control arms, so they move pretty freely. I imagine if you don't have poly bushings you may have to even remove the lower control arms. By the way, removing the tie rods is pretty easy. If you loosen the tie rod nut and turn your steering--lock to lock, the tie rods should loosen without even needing to use a tie rod remover.

Car is going up on jack stands today hopefully. It was a while ago that I did them on my other C4 and my memory is shot. Thanks.

By far the hardest part of the whole install for me was opening the hole in the upper shock mounts in the rear. I used a cutoff disc on a 3/8" electric drill and a lot of patience.

Good Luck!!!

[mgg]

Thanks Pantera, I appreciate your help. I just thought of something though. Two years ago I removed the front spring to install the lowering wedges and I did not take the tie rods off. Getting that spring out was a bitch! I also had the luxury of having the car on a lift. Not this time around unfortuantely. By chance do you know the part number of the energy suspension sway bar bushing. I am showing part # 9.5161 greasable universal sway bar bushing ( 1" / 25mm) . I also remember enlarging the hole for the rear shocks. I did it with a dremel tool. took me forever. Hopefull I can speed thing ups with a new tool this time around. I appreciate your help and if you don't mind I might bug you again with a question or two when I get going on this project. Thanks!

[carter200]

Hey Carter, all your parts worked perfectly for my install. The parts made the changeover to coilovers very easy.

Great news and appreciate the positive feedback. If you need any bling remember me, CT Machining, thanks, Carter :cheers:

[pantera1683]

I don't remember the part number for the bracket, but the 1" one is the one you want.

I did mine on jackstands too. make sure you get the car up really high or you won't be able to remove the leafspring.

Taking my time I did the fronts in a few hours and the rears took me all day. What's really cool is since the installation, I have removed one of the rear coilsprings to replace a broken actuator and removal and reinstallation only takes about a half an hour.

I'm happy to answer any questions you have. I'm sure some of the other coilspring vets will be happy to help as well. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the previous coilspring installation threads and help from other members.

[mgg]

Thanks Pantera, I really feel like I am having a senior moment with these coilovers. The ones I did previously on the race car were not FX3. Hopefully with this tool a freind of mine is loaning me , the rears will be much less time consuming. Thats one thing I do remember, it took quite some time in enlarge that opening. Thanks for the info on the bushing and bracket. I was confused due to the car having a 26mm bar. I am looking forward to getting my shocks back and get going. thanks again.

[Starman]

Daniel - hope the mufflers worked out- put me down as interested in a coilover kit too.

[Daniel_Mc]

Daniel - hope the mufflers worked out- put me down as interested in a coilover kit too.

Will do when we get a good number committed I will see what DRM can do. They worked out great I was going to use on the ZR-1 then the alignment shop tore the exhaust off the 89 so I used a 3 inch random tech mid system and the B&B's out back it sounds great and looks perfect.

Thanks again :thumbsup:

Daniel

[mgg]

Pantera, you out there? Need some help regarding the shock install on the rear coilovers. Rear spring is out, new DRM brackets installed. Carters bracket bolt up and area of frame that needed to be cut out is finished. My question is I am confused as to the install of the schock/coil itself. I am unclear as to the bushing reduction. I assume it is the top bushing, Is it both the width and the height of the bushing thast needs to be reduced? By approx how much? I also do not understand the process for the height adjustment with the FX3. My other c4 has non Fx3 and I just adjusted the height with the spanner wrench. I think I read with the fx3 if you turn the spanner wrench you will damage the gear on the top of the shock for FX3. Then how do adjust the ride height? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Off to a good start, wnat to keep it that way.
Thanks.

[pantera1683]

You're in luck, I know exactly what issues you are having.

1. Of the top shock mount rubber bushings, you have to trim the lower ones width wise ~ in half and cut the diameter down so that it is even with the metal washer.

2. You'll save a lot of time by adjusting your ride height before installing the assembly on the car. I have ~ 2" between the lower shock collar and the bottom of the threaded sleeve. This gives me tire to fenderwell clearance of about 1 1/2".

You can adjust the height with the supplied spanner wrench to turn the collar and a strap wrench on the coil sleeve but it is a pain in the but so I would only do that for minor adjustments.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks for posting all the Qs and As on here as I'm starting to worry that I bought a set and hoping I can figure out how to do this. With all the help of the folks on here I think I might be okay.

[Daniel_Mc]

It's not so bad and strait forward. If I can help anyone or answer questions shoot me a email @ dmcguffee@gmail.com or call 318-four one nine-7216 and ill do my best to talk you through it.

Daniel

[HAWAIIZR-1]

It's not so bad and strait forward. If I can help anyone or answer questions shoot me a email @ dmcguffee@gmail.com or call 318-four one nine-7216 and ill do my best to talk you through it.

Daniel

Daniel,

Thanks for the offer and I'll probably take you up on it. As long as it is easier than rebuilding an LT5 I should be able to handle it...lol. I ordered the brackets from Carter and just making a list of all the other things that will be needed. Have not thought about what tool to use to enlarge the hole for the bracket. I do need to order the sway bar bushing/bracket and my understanding is not all of our cars have the same diameter from the factory? Just looking at all the related posts in this and other forums to make sense of it all right now. Need to send or find someone to mod the shocks; I have two new rears in the box and the two front are new but mounted on the car.:handshak:

[ZZZZZR1]

Daniel

Thanks for all you've done for this group buy! Not just setting up, but for following thru and helping owners with the install

Thanks bro!!!!!

:cheers:

David

[mgg]

Pantera and Daniel, you guys are just great! I really appreciate all of the input. I know I am a little anal about this stuff but I figure there is no point in reiventing the wheel when guys as nice as you have been willing to answer my questions. I started on the rear and now with this info I can probably get the rear done monday with my schedule. Thanks again guys I really really appreciate your help. I am sure I will have more questions and it is great to know I can count on the help. I hope I can repay one day. Have a Merry Christmas!!

[carter200]

Daniel,

Thanks for the offer and I'll probably take you up on it. As long as it is easier than rebuilding an LT5 I should be able to handle it...lol. I ordered the brackets from Carter and just making a list of all the other things that will be needed. Have not thought about what tool to use to enlarge the hole for the bracket. I do need to order the sway bar bushing/bracket and my understanding is not all of our cars have the same diameter from the factory? Just looking at all the related posts in this and other forums to make sense of it all right now. Need to send or find someone to mod the shocks; I have two new rears in the box and the two front are new but mounted on the car.:handshak:

Craig,
I'll email you a pic of the cutter you'll need to make a clean hole in minutes :cheers: Won't be till Monday or so.....as I'm at Linda's now.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,
I'll email you a pic of the cutter you'll need to make a clean hole in minutes :cheers: Won't be till Monday or so.....as I'm at Linda's now.
Carter,
Okay, thanks. It's not like I'm in a rush or anything and appreciate it. :handshak:

[mgg]

HawaiiZR-1, Saw your post. I used a bi-metal hole saw that fit perfectly just inside Carters bracket. I remember last time doing this I used a dremel tool and it took forever. With the bi-metal hole saw and an 18 volt drill it took about a minute. I could not believe it. Sure made the job easier and a nice cut as well. Good luck.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

HawaiiZR-1, Saw your post. I used a bi-metal hole saw that fit perfectly just inside Carters bracket. I remember last time doing this I used a dremel tool and it took forever. With the bi-metal hole saw and an 18 volt drill it took about a minute. I could not believe it. Sure made the job easier and a nice cut as well. Good luck.

Thanks for the info and I appreciate it. I guess it will all make more sense once I get the parts and start taking things off, etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zf95A-OuzAs So something like this, correct?

Craig

[Aurora40]

You're in luck, I know exactly what issues you are having.

1. Of the top shock mount rubber bushings, you have to trim the lower ones width wise ~ in half and cut the diameter down so that it is even with the metal washer.

2. You'll save a lot of time by adjusting your ride height before installing the assembly on the car. I have ~ 2" between the lower shock collar and the bottom of the threaded sleeve. This gives me tire to fenderwell clearance of about 1 1/2".

You can adjust the height with the supplied spanner wrench to turn the collar and a strap wrench on the coil sleeve but it is a pain in the but so I would only do that for minor adjustments.

So, using this sort of crude picture (blue is the rubber, the dotted rectangle is the Carter bracket):

http://aurora40.dyndns.org/misc/bushing.jpg

We'd have to cut dimension C in half, and reduce dimension A a bit? B and D would remain unchanged?

[pantera1683]

/\ /\ yes

[Aurora40]

/\ /\ yes

Awesome, thanks!

One last thing, the rear shocks had two metal washers if I recall. One is gold-colored and slightly concave. The other is black and flat. The gold one goes on top of assembly I just pictured, between the rubber and the FX3 "crown". But does the black one go on the very bottom of the lower rubber? Or somewhere else?

[mgg]

I knew I could count on Bob. That drawing is perfect. It is amazing what can be done to solve a problem. Thanks everybody! I am really looking forward to getting these coilovers on. Hopefully with Bobs help we can finish up the rears today. Not exactly looking forward to the fronts but with all of the help and resources available I am feeling pretty good. Thanks again.

[mgg]

Well, Merry Christmas!! Bob and I worked on the rear today hoping to finish it up but we didn't quite get there. Holes drilled per Carters bracket, trailing arm bolts reversed, bushing cut and shocks/coils assembled. Trying to mount the shock/coilover we cannot seem to get the carter plate to line up with the holes. It is about a 1/4" short of lining up to the hole towards the front of the car. I drilled out the area revealed when I bolted up the carter bracket but we cannot seem to get it forward enough with the assembled shock, bushing, carter bracket etc. It is as if the bushing will not allow us to get unit moved toward the front of the car so that the bolt holes will line up. Is the area revealed by carters bracket the ONLY metal that needs to be removed. The frame that was visible through the hole in carters bracket is removed. Again, any help would be appreciated. It is puzzling. Best wishes for a Merry Christmas to all.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Well, Merry Christmas!! Bob and I worked on the rear today hoping to finish it up but we didn't quite get there. Holes drilled per Carters bracket, trailing arm bolts reversed, bushing cut and shocks/coils assembled. Trying to mount the shock/coilover we cannot seem to get the carter plate to line up with the holes. It is about a 1/4" short of lining up to the hole towards the front of the car. I drilled out the area revealed when I bolted up the carter bracket but we cannot seem to get it forward enough with the assembled shock, bushing, carter bracket etc. It is as if the bushing will not allow us to get unit moved toward the front of the car so that the bolt holes will line up. Is the area revealed by carters bracket the ONLY metal that needs to be removed. The frame that was visible through the hole in carters bracket is removed. Again, any help would be appreciated. It is puzzling. Best wishes for a Merry Christmas to all.

Thanks for keeping us posted on the trials and tribulations on this intall and making it easier for all those that follow you. Great that you have Bob's help and I'll be doing this solo when I get back to Hawaii; I don't think I want to tackle this here in Japan and have my car stranded in case I have to ship it on short notice. I'm curious to know the findings about the brackets. Please post photos if you can. Happy Holidays!!!

Craig:cheers:

[mgg]

Craig, I would agree that I would wait to do the install until you get back. It can prove to be a bit frustrating at times. After thinking about the problem I am having, I am fairly confident that the frame that was exposed by Caters bracket , then removed is not large enough to allow the top bushing to slide forward towards the front of the car. I blieve the top bushing is hitting the frame and this is what is preventing the plate to line up with the holes in the frame. It is about 1/4" shy of lining up. I am goint to get out in the garage today and see if I can measure it with some calipers. I do feel that if I open up the width of the area that was cut out using Carters bracket that this will allow the plate to move enough to line up. I made the assumption that just removing the area exposed in the hole of Carters bracket would give me the clearence needed. I do not think that was a good assumption. The only difference between bolting up the bracket by itself or with the shock installed through it is the bushing. I hope if I enlarge the opening this will allow the bushing to forward enough to make this all line up. ( I knew there was a reason I kept putting off buying coilovers) it is a pain in the ***, and I have not even got to the front yet. It will be worth it in the long run I hope. It is snowing I wouldn't be driving the car anyway. Bob has been good friend coming over and working on the car. It is much more fun with two rather than being by yourself. It is easier to laugh off problems! I will keep you posted.

[Aurora40]

There are a few things that we did/need to do that I thought I'd clarify.

One is, Pantera, we did not follow your suggestion for cutting the bushing. Cutting the bottom one seemed like a bad idea, as it is not that thick to begin with, and cutting 1/2 of it off would have left almost nothing. I do appreciate the help though.

The bottom bushing is taking all the force of the car slamming into bumps, while the top bushing would only take the unsprung weight, and only ever 1g worth of acceleration on it. So cutting the top bushing seemed more prudent. We also only cut about 1/4 off of it, not in half. This was enough to assemble the shock around Carter's plate. And we did not reuse the black flat washer, just the gold top one.

Additionally, Mike was of the impression that you only have to cut the frame where you can see through Carter's plate. I don't know if that was in a write-up or Carter said that, or where it came from. But it is not true.

If you look at the crude drawing I posted, bolting the plate in place and cutting the overlap will only make a hole big enough for the center section of the bushing assembly. The top is quite a bit wider than that, though. So that will not be enough material removal to insert the shock into the frame, and slide it forward to bolt it in place. It will not be able to slide forward because the bushing will not fit in the notched out area.

Mike has been grinding this out a bit more, but it seems that the plate doesn't address the concern of "how close to the bolt hole can you grind the opening before the remaining material isn't strong enough?" You still have to guess, test-fit, and hope you don't make a mistake.

I do wonder if the stock rubber bushing would let you trim less, as it is much more rounded in shape, and may slide over some small amount of the frame when pushed forwards. I don't know why a poly bushing is included with the stock kit, if this is "needed" to address some engineering/stress concern, or if it's just assumed most people think poly is better, so they toss it in as a nice gesture (or to offset the lack of any instructions)?

[carter200]

Here is the link to the proper install: http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6104&highlight=coil+install&page=9

I have sold over 30 of these kits with NO issues. Make sure you are using the right on the right and left on the left and follow the instructions or ask the many who have installed their kits how they did it with NO issues.....

[mgg]

Carter, this post is NOT to criticize the brackets, it is just trying to find out if additional frame other than the material exposed by your bracket needs to be removed. I was thrilled when I bolted up your bracket and was able to use the bi metal hole saw that fit perfectly in the hole in your bracket for the shock. It provided the perfect guide to cut out the frame area exposed in the hole. I assumed after doing that , the schock would then just mount up when assembled with the bushings etc. Unfortunatley it appears about a 1/4 " of additional frame area towards the front hole has to be removed in order for the schock and bushing to move forward so that your bracket holes and the frame holes line up. This is due to the width of the bushing hitting the frame and preventing it from moving forward. Your brackets are fine and well made and need to be made the way they are for this to work. I guess I assumed that when the exposed frame in the hole of your bracket was removed the schock would just bolt up like it was when I drilled out the frame. No where in the installation does it say anything about removing additional frame material which I find a bit odd. Do not interpret this as criticism, just wanting to know if anyone else had this issue . I have followed the instructions on the forum reversing the control arm bolts, shaving the bushing etc. I even compared it to my race car that I installed these same coilovers on without your bracket just to compare. Hopefully I will get this figured out but if you know anyone who has done this and did not have to cut out additional frame material I would like to hear from them. Again, NO PROBLEMS WITH YOUR BRACKETS. They match up with the holes in the frame, they will help strengthen the area, they allow the use of the hole saw to cut out the frame area exposed in the hole. One the schock is installed in the bracket I cannot get the hole in the bracket to line up with the frame holes. This has to be caused by the bushing and I will need to remove more frame material. Approx 1/4". That should do it.

[carter200]

I was just trying to get others that have installed the kits to chime in and give you more choices in feedback as it seemed like it was going no where for you. I did NOT feel threatened so do not worry about that. Just trying to get more info for you.......:cheers:

[Aurora40]

Here is the link to the proper install: http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6104&highlight=coil+install&page=9

I have sold over 30 of these kits with NO issues. Make sure you are using the right on the right and left on the left and follow the instructions or ask the many who have installed their kits how they did it with NO issues.....

Hey Carter, if you look at that posting, the part that is missing is how much to cut the rear frame.

The link at the beginning of that thread, back to CF, has a picture of the frame cut. But then the author states: "Here, I have done some cutting but in actuality, I did remove some more."

So it's not clear how much more has to be removed in order for the shock to bolt up. You have to guess at it, which of course opens the possibility for guessing wrong. ;)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, I would agree that I would wait to do the install until you get back. It can prove to be a bit frustrating at times. After thinking about the problem I am having, I am fairly confident that the frame that was exposed by Caters bracket , then removed is not large enough to allow the top bushing to slide forward towards the front of the car. I blieve the top bushing is hitting the frame and this is what is preventing the plate to line up with the holes in the frame. It is about 1/4" shy of lining up. I am goint to get out in the garage today and see if I can measure it with some calipers. I do feel that if I open up the width of the area that was cut out using Carters bracket that this will allow the plate to move enough to line up. I made the assumption that just removing the area exposed in the hole of Carters bracket would give me the clearence needed. I do not think that was a good assumption. The only difference between bolting up the bracket by itself or with the shock installed through it is the bushing. I hope if I enlarge the opening this will allow the bushing to forward enough to make this all line up. ( I knew there was a reason I kept putting off buying coilovers) it is a pain in the ***, and I have not even got to the front yet. It will be worth it in the long run I hope. It is snowing I wouldn't be driving the car anyway. Bob has been good friend coming over and working on the car. It is much more fun with two rather than being by yourself. It is easier to laugh off problems! I will keep you posted.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and I hope it all works out. Yes, I will definitely wait until I have the right location and resources before I tackle this project. It is great that you have all the help from here and at your location as I can't imagine facing this alone. Sounds like a good winter project and it will be worthwhile in the end and trying to figure it all out. Best wishes.:handshak:

[mgg]

OK guys, for those of you who are interested I have been grinding away on the frame this morning for about 3 hours. I now am able to mount the shock the mounting plate bushings etc. into the stock bolt locations. To make this so that others do not have the same questions and issues I have had, I am going to take some pictures of what the hole looks like after cutting out the area exposed by Carters plate and what the finished hole needs to look like to be able to mount the plate with the schock/coil/bushings. It is a BIG difference. To my knowledge this has not been documented as part of the installation procedure as it is the biggest pain in the butt to do. I went through a brand new hardened rotary file bit and a brand new grinding stone bit on one side only. I used a pneumatic grinder capable of 20,000 rpm. WEAR GOGGLES! I am pleased that the right side is done and now to begin the left. The pictures will clearly demonstrate what needs to be done to mount the coilovers. I will try to have Bob post the pictures as he is MUCH better at that than me.

[Aurora40]

Here's Mike's pictures.

Hole saw through the Carter bracket:

http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq40/aurora402002/DSCN0682.jpg

And expanding that hole until the shock actually fits:

http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq40/aurora402002/DSCN0680.jpg

[mgg]

Bob, thanks for posting these pictures. For those of you who have not yet installed the rear coilovers, these pictures are are worth a thousand words. Plan on many hours grinding out these holes to accomodate the top of the shock and bushing. Knowing that this needs to be done will eliminate some frustrating moments. I hope these pictures help and will provide a bit of guide as to what has not been discussed in the coilover installation process. Now, on to the right side grinding and then start on the front.

[WVZR-1]

That's pretty much what I expected to see. I've got some plates and reinforcements that require a similar modification for a non FX3 install and moving the shock forward something near 3/4" to allow clearance for the spring. What is the OD of the springs that were part of this package? My spring set is 87mm or something just short of 3.5".

[mgg]

WVZR-1 My coilovers are the DRM version. They use Hypercoil springs, I just stood the spring up on end and measured in the cent from outside edge to outside edge. The measurement is just a hair more than 3.5". I also think I have met you before. I believe you came down to my house with John Herald. I think it was something to do with my trailer. Stop on by sometime if you would want to take a look. Hope this helps. Doesn't seem to make a difference wether it is FX3 or non FX3. Just saw the weather, snows coming, I am off to grinding.

[tf95ZR1]

Didn't somebody mention a tool/saw/drill that makes the cutting easier?

[mgg]

Goiing to give an update in the rear coilover install. Frustration has now taken over and I need to get away from this. After grinding the left side this morning and getting the schock assembly to fit , Bob was kinda enough to come by and help with the adjustment. Guess what , the schock collar hits the lower control nut that has been reversered and ground down to make more room. If I want the car to sit a slightly lower than stock ride height this wouldn't be a problem. When you turn the collar for the adjustment to lower the height, the bolthead interfers with the collar and will not allow the collar to lower. I am pissed. My solution would be to try and find a washer ( spacer ) to put between the schock and the knuckle shaft to move just a bit. I have 12 threads visible on the sleeve and would like to get the car down to ten or so I think. I would love to know how many threads and visible on Wyde Glyde Jims rear coilovers as that is the ride height I am trying to get. Very very frustrated right now. Anyone who has these and wants to chime in would be appreciated.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

WVZR-1 My coilovers are the DRM version. They use Hypercoil springs, I just stood the spring up on end and measured in the cent from outside edge to outside edge. The measurement is just a hair more than 3.5". I also think I have met you before. I believe you came down to my house with John Herald. I think it was something to do with my trailer. Stop on by sometime if you would want to take a look. Hope this helps. Doesn't seem to make a difference wether it is FX3 or non FX3. Just saw the weather, snows coming, I am off to grinding.

It seems it might make a difference if using FX3 or not because of the top of the shock? Looking at this coilover set up there was no drilling, grinding or modification to the frame at all in the rear.

http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=46262


Here are some notes from Randy at DRM about the install and what is required for their kit:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance/2276923-drm-coilover-over-stock-sale.html



I even like this set up how the bottom mount is, but I'm clueless right now about this install and just following along as well as seeing what all the other C4 coilovers look like. I also saw another one that does not modify the front swaybar location and just used the Exotic Muscle helm joint link,; but the coil spring did not look as wide as the DRM coil and no FX3 either.

[RICKYRJ1]

It seems it might make a difference if using FX3 or not because of the top of the shock? Looking at this coilover set up there was no drilling, grinding or modification to the frame at all in the rear.

http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=46262


Here are some notes from Randy at DRM about the install and what is required for their kit:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-performance/2276923-drm-coilover-over-stock-sale.html



I even like this set up how the bottom mount is, but I'm clueless right now about this install and just following along as well as seeing what all the other C4 coilovers look like. I also saw another one that does not modify the front swaybar location and just used the Exotic Muscle helm joint link,; but the coil spring did not look as wide as the DRM coil and no FX3 either.



This is on my todo list also. I spoke a rep. From Van Steel at Carlisle last year. I liked their set up very much, he said they have had great sucsess with the C4 guys that track their cars. I'm also like QA1 double adjustable shocks. Craig, let's touch base on what way we should proceed. Happy New Year my mod brother

[carter200]

Didn't somebody mention a tool/saw/drill that makes the cutting easier?

Yes, I sent Craig the link to tool to use.......Ask him to forward it to you if you do not mind. :cheers:

[XfireZ51]

IIRC, I am somewhere between 10-11 threads on the sleeve.

[mgg]

XFire, thanks for the info. My guestimate comparing to my other car was about 12. WVZR-1 sent me a great link which describes the problem I am having with the collar nut interfering with the control arm bolt. I am going to have to grind the bolt down even more than I did. Plus, I noticed the the shock bushing on the botton of the shock is not stock. It is the poly bushing and it is MUCH wider than the stock bushing. With a little more grinding and replacing the stock shock bushing with a poly bushing , this should give me enough room to eliminate the interference. Thanks again to all who have helped with this install.

[XfireZ51]

XFire, thanks for the info. My guestimate comparing to my other car was about 12. WVZR-1 sent me a great link which describes the problem I am having with the collar nut interfering with the control arm bolt. I am going to have to grind the bolt down even more than I did. Plus, I noticed the the shock bushing on the botton of the shock is not stock. It is the poly bushing and it is MUCH wider than the stock bushing. With a little more grinding and replacing the stock shock bushing with a poly bushing , this should give me enough room to eliminate the interference. Thanks again to all who have helped with this install.

I'll have to look at my setup but seem to recall I used a washer between the shock poly bushing and the lwr control arm bolt. But I think I did that to provide more clearance between the spring and the half shaft. I also didn't like how the bushing was deforming on the control arm bolt as the diameter of the bolt increases. One of the coils was rubbing slightly against the half shaft and I could see a bright ring around the shaft. Later I rotated the spring to give me greater clearance since the compressed spring is a bit asymmetrical.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

This is on my todo list also. I spoke a rep. From Van Steel at Carlisle last year. I liked their set up very much, he said they have had great sucsess with the C4 guys that track their cars. I'm also like QA1 double adjustable shocks. Craig, let's touch base on what way we should proceed. Happy New Year my mod brother

Hey Mod Brother Ricky, what is up?? I hear what you are saying and I love that set up, but I'm committed to the DRM. I really want to research and know exactly what I'm up against, but I did feel like I will get the entire Banski set up after all the reading about it. This weekend I drove my car on a few long runs and really hate the way it rides, handles and feels, but not sure what is wrong with it. I have to get this car back to Hawaii where I can properly hang it up and wrench on it again. I have so many other mod in boxes on the shelf, but need the time and place to get er' done. Happy New Year to you too. We're a day ahead over here so New Year's Eve tonight and closing in. :cheers:

[mgg]

Ricky and Craig, I saw your post regarding the Van Steel coilovers. I am not familiar with that setup but I can tell you that the success and satisfaction you will get with the DRM coilovers will be hard to beat. I would have to say that the DRM would be the preferred set for several reasons. 1.) With all the help available on this forum from an installation standpoint, it would be wise to consider the DRM's as a first choice as installation can be a bit challenging. 2.) performance: DRM's set has been used countless times on C4s from the race track ( Corvette Challenge, World Challenge, high dollar tuner cars,Lingenfelter, etc.) with great success. 3) Randy @ DRM is a great guy to work with. 4.) I can personally add that I have had this setup as well as one of my best friends on our race cars for over 10 years with zero issues. We have raced with SCCA, NASA, COMSCC & NCCCC with excellent results. Many race wins, FTD's between the two of us. Even though I am having some moments with this latest install, I can tell you that when you guys are ready to do yours I could definately help out with a few tips that will make your installation MUCH easier. I am not one for re-inventing the wheel and I would highly recommend DRM as the preferred kit. My friends and I have worked with Randy at DRM with our race cars for over 10 years and you could not ask for a nicer guy.

[RICKYRJ1]

Ricky and Craig, I saw your post regarding the Van Steel coilovers. I am not familiar with that setup but I can tell you that the success and satisfaction you will get with the DRM coilovers will be hard to beat. I would have to say that the DRM would be the preferred set for several reasons. 1.) With all the help available on this forum from an installation standpoint, it would be wise to consider the DRM's as a first choice as installation can be a bit challenging. 2.) performance: DRM's set has been used countless times on C4s from the race track ( Corvette Challenge, World Challenge, high dollar tuner cars,Lingenfelter, etc.) with great success. 3) Randy @ DRM is a great guy to work with. 4.) I can personally add that I have had this setup as well as one of my best friends on our race cars for over 10 years with zero issues. We have raced with SCCA, NASA, COMSCC & NCCCC with excellent results. Many race wins, FTD's between the two of us. Even though I am having some moments with this latest install, I can tell you that when you guys are ready to do yours I could definately help out with a few tips that will make your installation MUCH easier. I am not one for re-inventing the wheel and I would highly recommend DRM as the preferred kit. My friends and I have worked with Randy at DRM with our race cars for over 10 years and you could not ask for a nicer guy.



Thanks, will be reaching out to you in the new year. Keep us posted on your front set up when you start.

[mgg]

Ricky, I owe you one for hooking me up with center caps. Don't think I forgot all of your help. I think by the time this installation is over I can save you a lot of time by not making the mistakes I have. JUst allow some down time as this is NOT a quick turnaround. Hope you have a great NEW YEAR. Hopefully this year I can get out a little more and have some fun with the Z after all of this work. I will keep you posted when I start on the front.

[RICKYRJ1]

Ricky, I owe you one for hooking me up with center caps. Don't think I forgot all of your help. I think by the time this installation is over I can save you a lot of time by not making the mistakes I have. JUst allow some down time as this is NOT a quick turnaround. Hope you have a great NEW YEAR. Hopefully this year I can get out a little more and have some fun with the Z after all of this work. I will keep you posted when I start on the front.



Thanks brother, have a safe & happy New Year! We'll touch base, I trust your call on this setup so looking forward to it.

[mgg]

Well. I know it has been awhile since this all got started but I was able get all of the coilovers mounted on saturday. Now I have to say that there are some challenges taking out the front spring and I am glad it is done. Something I would not look forward to doing again. One thing many might find interesting. I had removed the front spring once before to install the poly shims that are available through Mid America/ Ecklers along with the lowering bolts. The poor mans suspension adjustment setup. When I removed the front spring this time, I had found that the poly lowering wedges were absolutely destroyed. There was nothing left. That is after about 1500 miles of pretty easy driving. So in other words, that stuff is JUNK. The coilovers are on and this morning spent some time adjust the front ride height. Getting close. I'm burnt out now so the rear will have to wait for a day or two. The service ride control light is now on so I will also have to look into that. When I am finished, I plan on putting together some do'd and don'ts for the this coilover install and hopefully it will make anyone who wants to do this conversion aware of certain issues that can be avoided for an easier install. Thanks for everyones help on the forum who responded to my many questions. Pictures will follow one day.

[secondchance]

Well. I know it has been awhile since this all got started but I was able get all of the coilovers mounted on saturday. Now I have to say that there are some challenges taking out the front spring and I am glad it is done. Something I would not look forward to doing again. One thing many might find interesting. I had removed the front spring once before to install the poly shims that are available through Mid America/ Ecklers along with the lowering bolts. The poor mans suspension adjustment setup. When I removed the front spring this time, I had found that the poly lowering wedges were absolutely destroyed. There was nothing left. That is after about 1500 miles of pretty easy driving. So in other words, that stuff is JUNK. The coilovers are on and this morning spent some time adjust the front ride height. Getting close. I'm burnt out now so the rear will have to wait for a day or two. The service ride control light is now on so I will also have to look into that. When I am finished, I plan on putting together some do'd and don'ts for the this coilover install and hopefully it will make anyone who wants to do this conversion aware of certain issues that can be avoided for an easier install. Thanks for everyones help on the forum who responded to my many questions. Pictures will follow one day.

Good job and congratulations!!! I am sure you feel jubillant that it's done and over with.:cheers:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Well. I know it has been awhile since this all got started but I was able get all of the coilovers mounted on saturday. Now I have to say that there are some challenges taking out the front spring and I am glad it is done. Something I would not look forward to doing again. One thing many might find interesting. I had removed the front spring once before to install the poly shims that are available through Mid America/ Ecklers along with the lowering bolts. The poor mans suspension adjustment setup. When I removed the front spring this time, I had found that the poly lowering wedges were absolutely destroyed. There was nothing left. That is after about 1500 miles of pretty easy driving. So in other words, that stuff is JUNK. The coilovers are on and this morning spent some time adjust the front ride height. Getting close. I'm burnt out now so the rear will have to wait for a day or two. The service ride control light is now on so I will also have to look into that. When I am finished, I plan on putting together some do'd and don'ts for the this coilover install and hopefully it will make anyone who wants to do this conversion aware of certain issues that can be avoided for an easier install. Thanks for everyones help on the forum who responded to my many questions. Pictures will follow one day.

Good to hearing things are heading in a positive direction. I'm glad I never tried to install the wedge/bolts to lower.

What are your and the group's thought about non FX3 if going coilovers and just get rid of the FX3?

I don't know if any installation benefit or just avoiding future problems and cost.

Thanks for sharing.

Craig

[secondchance]

Good to hearing things are heading in a positive direction. I'm glad I never tried to install the wedge/bolts to lower.

What are your and the group's thought about non FX3 if going coilovers and just get rid of the FX3?

I don't know if any installation benefit or just avoiding future problems and cost.

Thanks for sharing.

Craig

Craig,

I am seriously thinking about going coil-over come spring. I intend to keep FX3, if anything, to keep the SRC switch working.
If I elect to discard the system later that can be done regardless.
In 18 years of ZR-1s, 1991-1996 and 2000-2013, FX3 functioned 98% of the time without any issues. So, why discard it?

[ZZZZZR1]

Good to hearing things are heading in a positive direction. I'm glad I never tried to install the wedge/bolts to lower.

What are your and the group's thought about non FX3 if going coilovers and just get rid of the FX3?

I don't know if any installation benefit or just avoiding future problems and cost.

Thanks for sharing.

Craig

Craig,

Keep FX3 definetly! Keep your ride quality.

I've driven another Z with Morocco shocks and make the car even "tighter".... (though expensive)

:cheers:

David

[GOLDCYLON]

Keep the FX-3 works great with it

[mgg]

I would have to agree with the others who suggested retaining FX3. As long as the car is going to be street driven I would stay with this setup. I do suggest that you carefully think about what spring rates you want to run though. If the car is street driven I would go no higher than 425 front & 300 rear MAX. Randy talked me into 250 rear and I think that will be a good choice. YOu might even consider less if it is a later model car whoose springs were a tad softer than the early. NOthing would be more disapointing that being unhappy with too stiff of springs. So far in my short amount of driving ( just settling ride height) the car feels great. I hope my resolution to FX3 problem is quick as I have never had this issue before the install. I have to say that the squirly side of me justs LOVES the stance of the front now. It looks serious. Now I need to spend the same amount of time on the rear and then off to the alignment shop. Its funny I don't know if I am more happy or releived that this is done. It does give one a good sense of accomplishment though. I very lucky to have some good friends who really helped me out.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

All,

Thanks for the confirmations of staying with FX3. I'll check with Randy about spring rates and I may not have a choice with the group buy.

Craig

[Aurora40]

Mike's car:

http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq40/aurora402002/DSCN0690.jpg

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I would have to agree with the others who suggested retaining FX3. As long as the car is going to be street driven I would stay with this setup. I do suggest that you carefully think about what spring rates you want to run though. If the car is street driven I would go no higher than 425 front & 300 rear MAX. Randy talked me into 250 rear and I think that will be a good choice. YOu might even consider less if it is a later model car whoose springs were a tad softer than the early. NOthing would be more disapointing that being unhappy with too stiff of springs. So far in my short amount of driving ( just settling ride height) the car feels great. I hope my resolution to FX3 problem is quick as I have never had this issue before the install. I have to say that the squirly side of me justs LOVES the stance of the front now. It looks serious. Now I need to spend the same amount of time on the rear and then off to the alignment shop. Its funny I don't know if I am more happy or releived that this is done. It does give one a good sense of accomplishment though. I very lucky to have some good friends who really helped me out.

Mike,

Your setup looks great with the photo that Bob posted and that is kind of what I am after in terms of looks, ride, and handling. My setup came in the last week, but I was out of country and finally looked at them today. I got the whole deal with trailing arm and camber brackets; everything looks great and well packed for shipment. The front rates are 425 and the rear 250 so Randy felt the same based on what I was looking for. Here are his thoughts: 300 too stiff, 275 right on, 250 a tick softer than the 275. I'm waiting on Carter brackets and in the meanwhile I need to figure out how I will have the shocks grooved. Thanks for sharing your info and experience with this setup.

Craig:handshak:

[GOLDCYLON]

Craig I wholeheartedly agree.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11907&highlight=coilovers


As you can see above I went with the hypercoil 425/275 spring rate as well which is the right rate for our car. Any stiffer on the back end and you will feel like you are riding on a buckboard

After the install im sure your impression will be the same as mine that this was the way the car should have been setup from the factory. In turns she will ride like on a rail.

[XfireZ51]

I re-did my setup last year using 400/275s. I am using Moracca valved Bilsteins
and did a full replacement of the front bushings w poly. I have thought about going w 300 in the rear. The taller 19" Z06 wheel on the right rear will rub slightly on the inner part of the wheel well when hitting some dips in the road.
Another solution might be to use a slightly thicker spacer on that side to push the right rear tire out further matching the positioning of the left rear. As we know, the left/right wheels positioning is not symmetrical on our cars. Right side is slightly shorter than left.
Overall, I really like the feel and ride of the coilovers. My preference is for a tauter, tighter ride. I was one of those crazies that actually liked the Z51 setup on my 84. 200# lighter than the ZR w 11" rubber on the back and C5 brakes up front. Handled very nicely.
The poly really tightens things up in terms of road feel and transient response. Not a Porsche but much better than stock. I usually am on the SPORT setting for daily driving. Al drove my car and really liked the setup and felt it was a better feel than his stock Bilsteins.

[Fully Vetted]

...As we know, the left/right wheels positioning is not symmetrical on our cars. Right side is slightly shorter than left.

By how much?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig I wholeheartedly agree.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11907&highlight=coilovers


As you can see above I went with the hypercoil 425/275 spring rate as well which is the right rate for our car. Any stiffer on the back end and you will feel like you are riding on a buckboard

After the install im sure your impression will be the same as mine that this was the way the car should have been setup from the factory. In turns she will ride like on a rail.

Daryll,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and link. I can't wait to get these on. Not sure how much difference the 250 in the rear will be and I might like it a tad bid softer so we'll see. Thanks again!! :cheers:

[mgg]

Craig, I wanted to let you know, that I had a talk with Randy Rippie the other day concerning the spring rates. I asked Randy if he knew the difference between the early ZR-1 transverse leaf spring rates compared to the 425 front / 250 rear coils that he suggested for my car. He said he didn't have the slide rule in front of him jokingly but he estimated that the coil springs were about 10 -15% stiffer than the leafs that they have replaced. Not having had a chance to drive my car much since the conversion and not having had the car aligned yet, I cannot offer too much of an evaluation other than my brief experience running up and down the street to get the suspension to settle. The one thing I know is that these springs are way softer than whats on the race car but my intial feeling is that they feel great. I didn't notice a significant difference in ride quality which is a good thing. I am looking forward to the day of hammering it through some twisties and a launch to see how it feels. I can tell at this stage, no regrets! I just can't say enough good things about Randy Rippie. This guy is as good as it gets. I have known Randy and have done business with DRM for well over 15 years and they have always treated me exceptionally well. Randy is one in a million in this industry and I have all the confidence in the world in them supporting their products and going the extra mile to make it right. Just wanted to share that.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, I wanted to let you know, that I had a talk with Randy Rippie the other day concerning the spring rates. I asked Randy if he knew the difference between the early ZR-1 transverse leaf spring rates compared to the 425 front / 250 rear coils that he suggested for my car. He said he didn't have the slide rule in front of him jokingly but he estimated that the coil springs were about 10 -15% stiffer than the leafs that they have replaced. Not having had a chance to drive my car much since the conversion and not having had the car aligned yet, I cannot offer too much of an evaluation other than my brief experience running up and down the street to get the suspension to settle. The one thing I know is that these springs are way softer than whats on the race car but my intial feeling is that they feel great. I didn't notice a significant difference in ride quality which is a good thing. I am looking forward to the day of hammering it through some twisties and a launch to see how it feels. I can tell at this stage, no regrets! I just can't say enough good things about Randy Rippie. This guy is as good as it gets. I have known Randy and have done business with DRM for well over 15 years and they have always treated me exceptionally well. Randy is one in a million in this industry and I have all the confidence in the world in them supporting their products and going the extra mile to make it right. Just wanted to share that.

Mike,

Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experience with DRM and Randy. Yes, I had the same experience while communicating with him back and forth for the past few months and he really took care of me about the shipping to Japan and my military address. I never really did like the feel and the way the car handled even when stock. You know prior to buying my ZR-1 in 2003 I was really searching for an NSX and drove quite a few of them in the process. Now that is a great handling car in stock form and makes even me feel like I'm a Formula Car race driver. I think something is wrong with my suspension how I put it back together when I had it all apart and rebuilding it along with my motor. I think there is binding or something because it just seems bouncy. When I redo everything to put this DRM coilover on I think it should correct the problem since I also bought the full Banski set up too for the rear and it could be my rear shocks are shot from hanging too long during the rebuild. Anyway, best wishes on the rest of the suspension tuning and thanks again.

Craig :cheers:

[5ABI VT]

I would imagine this GB is long over? Just picking up a Z and am thinking coilovers may be the easiest way to achieve the height I want.

[carter200]

I would imagine this GB is long over? Just picking up a Z and am thinking coilovers may be the easiest way to achieve the height I want.

Yes, but I'm in the process of doing a set now and can do an extra set if you are interested. I'll PM you the info. Thanks, Carter