A/c issues.

[mgbrv8]

I got a report from my dad about my 91 zr1. My dad took it out the other day and the Ac was working fine. But then it started getting warn so dad moving it from auto to recirculate but still warm. Then he said the green light started flashing and what ever setting he put it on the light would flash and it wouldn't cool. Any ideas I'm a few thousand miles from home and I don't know what to tell him?

Dave

[White Bullet]

I believe that the flashing light indicates that the freon is low. So check it first and work further into the system if needed.

[VetteMed]

The flashing light indicates a trouble code - usually 09 for low refrigerant, which would fit with the description in this case.

[scottfab]

Most common problem is low freon.
Good luck if you still have an R-12 system.
If it was converted to R-134 then first look
to see if the compressor clutch is engaging
every so often. If so then add 12oz of R-134
via the fitting at the dryer (canister near the radiator).
Be aware this is a short cut that works in the vast
majority of cases. If it is your unlucky day and the
system still uses R-12 then you could be in for a
bit more work converting over to R-134.

If you're wondering how to tell if the system was
converted, look at the service port at the dryer canister.
Remove the black cap. (twist off)
If the metal fitting has threads on the outside then it's R-12. If it is a quick connect (similar to an air hose) fitting then it's R-134.

[mgbrv8]

Thanks guys I will let him know.

Dave

[ghlkal]

After you add "freon," you may have to clear the code from the HVAC before the compressor will come on again. On mine, the compressor would not turn on after adding R134a (my system was converted). I think this is a safety feature to keep the compressor from burning up. I reset my code 09 (low freon) by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. (The manual says you can pull some fuses, but I pulled three labeled AC and it didn't reset). Once there are no codes in the HVAC, if the system has enough freon the compressor should come on. If not, there's a problem somewhere else.

[VetteMed]

All you have to do is pull the CTSY fuse (top left). That resets the HVAC.

[scottfab]

If you decide it's more than just topping off the gas here are some links that might help:

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj21.htm

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj20.htm

[rhipsher]

This has been a subject I've totally ignored with my Z. One year after I bought it the a/c stopped blowing cold. But since its not a daily driver I didnt really worry about it. So one day I was at my buddy Luises house. And he has two big tanks of R12 freon and the gages. So he hooked his gages up to it and I turned the engine on but it was so empty that the compressor wouldn't come on and wouldnt suck any freon in. So he jumped a connection and tricked the compressor to come on and it started filling up with freon. For the first time in years the lines started getting ice cold and I put my hand in front of the vent and it was blowing cold. I was so jazzed. Drove all the way home nice and cold. The next day the feon had leaked out. After pulling some of the orings out i could tell they were old and hard and thats probably where my leaks are.

[USAFPILOT]

Rick, how the hell can you not have a/c in Houston? Mine works but not good enough. I wish there was a cheap mod that would triple the power of my a/c for this town.

[rhipsher]

Ryan I drive for years in that mazda 626 for without a/c when Vickie was getting her RN degree. Driving on the freeway with the windows down and all that wind blowing into the car just causes the headliner to come loose. I finally got the a/c fixed in it. It really makes driving very unpleasant.

[scottfab]

Rick, how the hell can you not have a/c in Houston? Mine works but not good enough. I wish there was a cheap mod that would triple the power of my a/c for this town.

You have stock windshield?

[rhipsher]

Mine is stock. I think Ryans is to. I remember my ac working well enough to keep me cool in 104 degree temps.

[mgbrv8]

Rick, how the hell can you not have a/c in Houston? Mine works but not good enough. I wish there was a cheap mod that would triple the power of my a/c for this town.


What If you put a pusher fan in front of the evaporator??

Dave

[scottfab]

Mine is stock. I think Ryans is to. I remember my ac working well enough to keep me cool in 104 degree temps.

For those that swap out the stock metal mesh windshield with the cut-out in it for a standard C4 one there is an added heat load.
Another source of problems is the fan not being able to reach full on.

Since it will be in the mid 70s here today I won't be worrying about using the air at all. :dancing

[MickeyD]

I agree with you USA, my red 90 doesn't have much air flow, but the 90 black is great flow. Low air flow keeps it in the garage on Houston days like these. However, going out anyway!

[rhipsher]

I agree with you USA, my red 90 doesn't have much air flow, but the 90 black is great flow. Low air flow keeps it in the garage on Houston days like these. However, going out anyway! Mine has no ac right now and Im still taking it out. Might head to the hard rock cafe downtown Houston.

[vilant]

My 90' A/C works for a few minutes then becomes warm. I assume it's R 12 and I'm pretty sure it's the original system. Anyone know what a reasonable cost it is to have it updated? Or is there a black market for R 12.;)It's been 90+ and humid here lately keeping me from taking the car out as much:cry:

[VetteMed]

R12 is readily available on ebay, craigslist, etc. You do need to have your EPA certification to purchase R12, however. The test costs around $20. Of course, this assumes you're doing the work yourself and have equipment to do so.

Most shops have gotten rid of their R12 equipment and will want you to retrofit R134a.

[sammy]

i have converted both my zs to 134. i bought a new accumulator and changed out all the o rings to new ones . i evacuated the system for 2 hrs to get all the 12 oil out . then installed the new accumulator put 2 oz of oil in the compressor 2 ozin the accumulator . then evacuated the system for an hr . closed off both valves to see that it held the vacuum. if it did then i filled with 2lbs of 134 that also had oil in the can . it can be a little fun trying to get the compressor to not kick off and stop the fill at first . but i just stopped the car disconnected the battery and started the car again(usually) only had to do this twice . i did the 90 5 yrs ago and its still cooling great .the 92 did this year and doing great also . you can get a air compressor operated evact unit from harbor freight tools for about 50 bucks which saves having to pay to have it evacuated by a shop . its really not a hard job to do just take your time oil up the o rings in the 134 oil before installing and clean all the threads of the connection points in the system before putting it back together . hope this helps

[VetteMed]

Those air-compressor powered vacuum devices really don't draw the level of vacuum that is ideal to be able to rapidly boil off any residual moisture. Better off with a used Robinair or similar on ebay.


i have converted both my zs to 134. i bought a new accumulator and changed out all the o rings to new ones . i evacuated the system for 2 hrs to get all the 12 oil out . then installed the new accumulator put 2 oz of oil in the compressor 2 ozin the accumulator . then evacuated the system for an hr . closed off both valves to see that it held the vacuum. if it did then i filled with 2lbs of 134 that also had oil in the can . it can be a little fun trying to get the compressor to not kick off and stop the fill at first . but i just stopped the car disconnected the battery and started the car again(usually) only had to do this twice . i did the 90 5 yrs ago and its still cooling great .the 92 did this year and doing great also . you can get a air compressor operated evact unit from harbor freight tools for about 50 bucks which saves having to pay to have it evacuated by a shop . its really not a hard job to do just take your time oil up the o rings in the 134 oil before installing and clean all the threads of the connection points in the system before putting it back together . hope this helps

[vilant]

Thanks.:cheers: What I would prefer is to pay someone to recharge the R 12. Although the test is $20, I would need to take a course to pass the test and I have no equipment, which would probably cost just as much as having someone do it. To convert it myself, although I'm great at taking things apart and putting them back, if it took you 8hrs for the job. It would take me at least 16hrs. So, I might save some money by buying all the equipment, parts, and tools necessary. But paying for it, will definitly save me time and headaches. Know anyone in PA or nearby that could help me out?

[VetteMed]

certainly, the most cost effective way to go, if you're paying someone, is to convert to R134, unless you get lucky and find a shop that has some R12 in stock.

Can't help you with PA, but maybe try posting in the Northeast section?

[vilant]

whoops, thanks, and sorry, didn't realize there was regional sections. BTW sorry for hijacking your thread Dave.:p

[USAFPILOT]

I just need more flow...still have the stock windshield.