How to clear FX3 codes?

[BlackbirdZ07]

I just did a search and couldn't find the details I need... Service Ride Control light in my '90 is on, and when I pulled the codes I found that ALL the codes were set. I think I may have caused that by connecting an almost discharged battery. I'd like to clear the codes and start over.

The FSM only says to ground pin C of the ALDL for two seconds and repeat twice, for a total of three groundings. I've tried doing that many times but no luck... can someone tell me exactly how to do it? I tried turning the key on with the ground in place, leaving it for two seconds, removing it, etc. so it was grounded three times. I've tried waiting for two seconds after code 12 starts flashing. I've tried turning the key on and off three times. I've tried turning the key on and then grounding it, etc.

I also tried disconnecting the battery overnight and driving the car, and nothing has cleared the codes.

[GOLDCYLON]

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/sixsteps.htm

Yep thats right in the FSM as stated. Do you have a Autoxray or a scanner normally those can clear out the codes as well

[scottfab]

The FSM only says to ground pin C of the ALDL for two seconds and repeat twice, for a total of three groundings. I've tried doing that many times but no luck... can someone tell me exactly how to do it?

I have done this and it works.
1. with pin C shorted to ground turn the key on ..... at this point the codes start flashing the DIC light
2. as the codes start flashing remove the short for 2 sec (I just count one, two)
3. then quickly short the pin again for 1 sec
4. then remove the short again for 2 sec
5. now short for 1 sec again
6. now remove short again for 2 sec
7. and finally short for 15 sec

The codes should clear. With some practice you can do the above without thinking. I created a push button switch for myself to do this. It is important in step 2 to remove the short AS the codes are flashing.
Good luck.

[BlackbirdZ07]

I have done this and it works.
1. with pin C shorted to ground turn the key on ..... at this point the codes start flashing the DIC light
2. as the codes start flashing remove the short for 2 sec (I just count one, two)
3. then quickly short the pin again for 1 sec
4. then remove the short again for 2 sec
5. now short for 1 sec again
6. now remove short again for 2 sec
7. and finally short for 15 sec

The codes should clear. With some practice you can do the above without thinking. I created a push button switch for myself to do this. It is important in step 2 to remove the short AS the codes are flashing.
Good luck.

Thanks... that should do it. I'll try it tonight. I do have an AutoXray, haven't used it in a long time but if this doesn't work I'll break it out and see if it'll clear the codes.

[Tyler Townsley]

If they reset you will have to have Bilsteen rebuild them to keep from getting the codes unless you have broken the motor gear on top of the shock.$$$$$

Tyker

[scottfab]

If they reset you will have to have Bilsteen rebuild them to keep from getting the codes unless you have broken the motor gear on top of the shock.$$$$$

Tyker

The gear on top of the shock can be rebuilt cheaply and stronger than stock.
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj4.htm

[BlackbirdZ07]

Well, I got the codes cleared. I don't know exactly what worked, but I kept doing different things (including the procedure above) and I finally figured out that I had cleared all the codes except one: code 14, which is the right front. I think the codes were cleared but then 14 reset every time I turned the ignition on.

So I removed the actuator... shock gear and actuator looked fine, but actuator did not move when I turned the key on. Bad actuator?? To test that, I removed the actuator, disconnected the left front actuator and plugged the suspect actuator into the left front connector. Low and behold, it moved when I turned on the key... so the actuator is NOT bad. It's not getting power for some reason. Any ideas?

[VetteMed]

Well, I got the codes cleared. I don't know exactly what worked, but I kept doing different things (including the procedure above) and I finally figured out that I had cleared all the codes except one: code 14, which is the right front. I think the codes were cleared but then 14 reset every time I turned the ignition on.

So I removed the actuator... shock gear and actuator looked fine, but actuator did not move when I turned the key on. Bad actuator?? To test that, I removed the actuator, disconnected the left front actuator and plugged the suspect actuator into the left front connector. Low and behold, it moved when I turned on the key... so the actuator is NOT bad. It's not getting power for some reason. Any ideas?

That would point to an open or short in the wiring prior to the actuator connector. Or, a bad module behind the driver's seat.

[scottfab]

So I removed the actuator... shock gear and actuator looked fine, but actuator did not move when I turned the key on. Bad actuator?? To test that, I removed the actuator, disconnected the left front actuator and plugged the suspect actuator into the left front connector. Low and behold, it moved when I turned on the key... so the actuator is NOT bad. It's not getting power for some reason. Any ideas?

Before anything else preform a "capping run".
This is a term from my old electronics engineering days.
It means go back to the original assumption and verify it is still true.
Put the original actuator back where it was to make sure it does not
run still. If it is now running then it's likely the connectors were corroded and you cleaned them by re-attaching. Either that or you have a wiring/connector problem that is intermittent. I've seen this before.
If the failure to turn is persistent then you have a hard failure in the wiring.