New exhaust

[efnfast]

Thought I would start this thread a little early. Car is at the shop for exhaust install tomorrow.
New OBX headers and exhaust from the "Racing Parts Depot" on ebay. About $840.00 shipped.
Headers went to Swain Tech for their white lightning ceramic coating. They claim 30-50% heat retention. $320.00. Took a month to get them back.
Dropped off parts yesterday at the shop. Now I've been there twice to make sure everything would be ok. I've got parts in hand, the guy says "we could have custom built the exhaust". Would have been about price comparable, less pieces-more bent pipe. Today he says "If you don't like the sound, we can cut off the muffelers and try some different ones.
Look for a quality shop before you buy some expensive system on line.
Header gaskets from Jerry. And dipstick o-ring.
Dipstick relocation bracket from Paul Workman.
Air tubes will be leaving.
You can see daylight through every piece, the fake cats, resonator, and mufflers.
System has an "H" pipe just north of the resonator.
All polished SS. Although, now the headers have a spackled white finish.
Think that's all the majors. Will post more as I know more.

:fahne:Steve

Dyno'd at 311 couple weeks ago, as soon as I can swing a Marc chip I'll dyno again.
Hopefully the car will be ready tomorrow.
I'll post as soon as I have more.

[mike100]

I'm looking forward to see how that exhaust works out for you.

[Kb7tif]

I just installed the OBX system on my Lt1.
No drone and it sounds pretty nice. Looks like the corsa from the out but nothing even close inside.
Too quiet for me, Mine was a bit short about 1-2 inches also the pipes started to darken after about 50 miles.
Got a B&B on the way. ( Many say it drones )
Enjoy the system pretty nice for the $$ !

[efnfast]

Kb, so you're gonna trash the OBX and install B&B?

[Kb7tif]

Ya Way too quiet Nice though, It was boxed and shipped out today.
I restored this car here and during that I was running straight out of the cats for testing ect, Got kind of used to that type of sound- crazy enough.

[mike100]

Don't worry the B&B will be pretty loud. If you want to get stupid, make sure you get the x-pipe instead of the resonator.

[Kb7tif]

Don't worry the B&B will be pretty loud. If you want to get stupid, make sure you get the x-pipe instead of the resonator.

Thats What I have =D>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=130676135684&si=%252FDNhiMxoqjkR4ZoOgnVrJdZxCdg%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AMOTORS%3A1123&vxp=mtr&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_500wt_900

[efnfast]

Car not ready yet. Seems there was only about 8 bolts per side. Muff guy thinks it may have come from the factory that way. I hear a lot about loose bolts. I suspect they are on the side of the highway somewhere.
Any suggestions on what to do with the air pump stuff?

[GOLDCYLON]

Any suggestions on what to do with the air pump stuff?


Put it in a box in your parts crib

[efnfast]

GC, strip it right to the wiring?

[GOLDCYLON]

GC, strip it right to the wiring?


Just unplug but yeah its no longer needed. Cleans up a lot of room in the engine compartment

[efnfast]

Thanks GC, I'll keep the post up to date.

[mike100]

It is true, the factory only used 7 or 8 fasteners on the original manifolds.

[secondchance]

It is true, the factory only used 7 or 8 fasteners on the original manifolds.

Yes. WAZOO installed 4-5 sets and all factory manifolds had 4 bolts (I think...) plus one stud/nut per side.

[tomtom72]

Steve, you may want to check me on this but I do believe that with headers you will be a bit lean with the OEM fuel programming. Check Marc's web site as I think he has details on the page with all the EPROM descriptions and prices.

I know back in the old days a sbc 327 or 350 would run waaay lean on the back two cylinders on each bank with headers & stock jetting. It was sort of commonly accepted procedure that you had to step up the primaries 2 steps and the secondaries 3 steps just to start with and read plugs from there.:o

:cheers:
Tom

[efnfast]

Thanks Tom. Just heard it run, sounds great, looks great, and the installer was happy with it. If he doesn't take all my money, I may go straight to Marc for a chip.

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks Tom. Just heard it run, sounds great, looks great, and the installer was happy with it. If he doesn't take all my money, I may go straight to Marc for a chip.

See if somebody has a used one here for sale first. Just an idea ...... You never know

[PhillipsLT5]

You want/need Marc's chip for several reasons, no buyer remorse

[efnfast]

There is a rather large plug on the back of the air pump. I pulled it. Was that the right thing to do?
Just e-mailed Marc for a chip. Looks like I'll wait 'till BG, he's advertising 10% off and he'll install at BG. Sounds good to me.:cheers:

[Hoekie]

About the air system, do you just disconnect the pump and the switch/valve at the top of the wheel arch, and reroute the vacuum line? because that is just what I have done on my new toy! Does this give you a failure code?
My motor was running quite rich when I drove the car home after buying it, have since replaced both O2 sensors because they didnt work and have now removed the air system, as sugested else where.
Unfortunately I cant go for a ride as Im waiting for a gearbox rear seal. :(

[FU]

See if you can have Marc take a long drive with you and fine tune the chip. There is a Dyno in BG and they will let you rent time. may as well make the best of it. There is nothing like a very well tuned car.

[efnfast]

Thanks Frank, seems that would be asking a lot of Marc?

[efnfast]

Headers are rubbing just a bit on the stearing shaft. Looks like its just kind of shining up the shaft. Is it a thin tube, like I might cut it in half, or is it a solid piece of stock? The White lightning ceramic coating is pretty rough to the touch.

[FU]

Problem could be......The drivetrain is off center. Mine was off center and the monkey's that worked on it at that time knotched the header.
There is another post on here about centering the driveline. Maybe a search will find it.

[FU]

Thanks Frank, seems that would be asking a lot of Marc?

Pick up the phone and ask him , you may be supprised.

[tomtom72]

Headers are rubbing just a bit on the stearing shaft. Looks like its just kind of shining up the shaft. Is it a thin tube, like I might cut it in half, or is it a solid piece of stock? The White lightning ceramic coating is pretty rough to the touch.

Steve,
This is a guess, but I'll bet that shaft is fairly thick walled if it is hollow; I'll give you even money it's a solid shaft though.

:cheers:
Tom

[Paul Workman]

Headers are rubbing just a bit on the stearing shaft. Looks like its just kind of shining up the shaft. Is it a thin tube, like I might cut it in half, or is it a solid piece of stock? The White lightning ceramic coating is pretty rough to the touch.

I suppose you could remove the shaft and weigh it - should give you a pretty good idea whether it is solid or hollow. But! I appreciate what Frank is saying re driveline centering.

If you loosened the nuts on the motor mount studs and the rear C-beam bolts at the differential and took a pry bar, I wonder if you couldn't move the motor over - even 1/8" might be all you'd need to clear the shaft (before cinching up the motor mount bolts). You might have to place a jack under the motor to just free the mounts from their rests - just enough so the mounts will not stick in place and simply flex when you pry on the motor.

Prying would be worth a try, and heck of a lot easier that removing and grinding the steering rod, methinks...

P.

[efnfast]

Thanks guys. I gotta buy a lift, I hate not being able to get under my car. But that's $2,500 that won't buy me upgrades. When the headers were first in, we could see daylight. Not much, but it wasn't rubbing. Must be from when the engine torques then settles back in. It gets twisted frequently.

[tomtom72]

Time for new motor mounts possibly from your description of the issue? I'm sorry that I'm good at spending other people's money, or something is loose like C-beam bolts or motor mount bolts?

:o
Tom

[FU]

This may help.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14068&highlight=Aligning+driveline&page=2

[FU]

Don't let the steering shaft scratch off the Swain coating. Later on the coating will peel off .

[efnfast]

Friday it goes back in to have the bolts retorqued. We'll look into it then.
Thanks to everyone for all the pointers and advice.
Steve

[SteelBlueZR1]

So... After some time has passed, how do you like the OBX headers and exhaust? Have you had a chance to go back to the dyno from your baseline 311rwhp? I hope to see you and your car at Carlisle this year. I am leaning towards the OBX exhaust, but still have that old LT4 resonator hanging around.

[efnfast]

Bert, still happy with the OBX. One hitch was the Stage 8 header bolts, we couldn't get the locks on, like the jesus clip was too thick.

'fraid I won't be at Carlisle.

Haven't had the chance to redyno, hopefully soon. Since the first dyno I've done headers, removed the cats, actually replaced them with 6" glass packs that look like cats from the outside, did the exhaust and installed a Marc chip. -Steve

[SteelBlueZR1]

Sounds good... Me so jealous. I'm going to order the OBX exhaust tonight. My Z Dynoed at 321 rwhp with just Haibeck chip and open air cleaner. I hope to come close to 340 rwhp w/ OBX, however unlikely. Share your dyno when run with headers and exh and I'll share re dyno just for exhaust.

[efnfast]

Bert, did you dyno before the chip? Marc advertises ten hp. Because I had no cats he tweeked my program a little tighter. - Steve

[SteelBlueZR1]

No, the chip was installed before the dyno.