Needing help with TP Switch

[Route 66]

I screwedup! I took the TPS off when I replaced the injectors. Big mistake. I tried to put it back where I thought it was located. I guess I didn't get it in the right place. because Im getting a falt code for the TPS.
From reading the repair manual I will need to take it somewhere for repair or buy a Tech I and do it myself. So at this time Im looking to buy the tool I will need to put it back so the system will get the proper voltage. The car is a 93ZR1. Is there anyone here that has made this repair and what tools you have used?

You advice would be greatly appreciated!...Thanks...E:cheers:

[bdw18_123]

I adjusted my TPS with a common digital volt meter and some sharp metal pins to pierce the wires with to attach the DVM leads to. You have to have the TPS connector connected for this adjustment. I believe the proper voltage is around .54 volts. You need the key in the on position also (engine off) to do this adjustment. You loosen the 2 bolts like you did already, then slowly twist the sensor either way until the DVM reads the correct voltage. Then tighten the bolts back down without moving the sensor again.

There are 3 wires, but you only need to tap into two of them, but I can't remember off the top of my head which two you need. Maybe someone else that knows will chime in.

[Route 66]

Thank you that sounds great. I thought I might have to spend another few hundred on a tech I or something. I've got a good volt meter, now If I can find which wires to tap into....:cheers:

[VetteMed]

There's no reason to pierce any wires.

The connector for the TPS can be partially disassembled for adjustment purposes.

Unplug the connector from the TPS.
Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, flip the cover back from over the end where the wires enter the connector body.
Using a small pick or fine flat bladed screwdriver, gently pull back the three rubber grommets that surround the wires as they enter the connector body.
Plug the connector back in to the TPS.

You can now use your standard DVM leads to probe the connector, without piercing any insulation. If I remember correctly, it's the top and middle leads that you need to measure across. I think the bottom one is the 5V reference.

I will go check my diagrams to confirm.

[VetteMed]

On a 91, and possibly other years, the wire colors are Dark Blue and Black. Black is ground, Dark blue is the voltage the ECM is seeing. The third wire should be the 5V reference signal (Gray, I think).

[Z51JEFF]

Mid America sells the adapter to make this easier or as stated you can get some wires into the plug to get the reading you need.Its possible to get the switch back on the car and dial it in by ear,idle will move around but when I did this I didnt get a code.Did you get the tab in the switch lined up correctly?Ive set mine with the exposed wire method but I do have the adapter from Mid America as well.This was done on a 91.

[Pete]

Just do the blue wire on the TPS and any good ground.

Basicly take your volt meters Red lead to the blue wire at the TPS the Black lead from your volt meter to any good ground.

Pete

[VetteMed]

Just do the blue wire on the TPS and any good ground.

Basicly take your volt meters Red lead to the blue wire at the TPS the Black lead from your volt meter to any good ground.

Pete

Good point, no reason to mess with 2 wires on the connector when just the one will do the same thing.

[Route 66]

YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP TO ME!...THANK YOU!

:cheers:

[mike100]

I keep a couple of paper clips and safety pins in the tool box because, if careful, you can slip them under the rubber GM weatherpack wire seal and touch the metal terminal. then use a clip lead to attach the pin to the meter leads...hands free at that point.

[bdw18_123]

Good call on the no-pierce methods, guys!

I didn't even think of that when I did mine and I usually do think of things like that.

[Z51JEFF]

I keep a couple of paper clips and safety pins in the tool box because, if careful, you can slip them under the rubber GM weatherpack wire seal and touch the metal terminal. then use a clip lead to attach the pin to the meter leads...hands free at that point.

This is how I did it the first time,takes a little patients but it works.

[VetteMed]

I am assuming this TPS adjustment applies to a 90', 91', and ???
:cheers:

Yes; applies to most GM EFI systems.

[Route 66]

Good call on the no-pierce methods, guys!

I didn't even think of that when I did mine and I usually do think of things like that.




Thanks again. are you sure about the .54 volts DC ?

[mike100]

Thanks again. are you sure about the .54 volts DC ?

pretty much for most of the 90's GM stuff. when I had my vacuum leaks, the first thing I checked was the TPS setup and it was factory set at .54 or .55 volts. I would set it to that level- should be right after that.

[Route 66]

pretty much for most of the 90's GM stuff. when I had my vacuum leaks, the first thing I checked was the TPS setup and it was factory set at .54 or .55 volts. I would set it to that level- should be right after that.

I will do that.
Thank you...E

[Route 66]

I got the TPS set back where it should be an it no longer has a falt code for the TPS ! Thanks to all of you for your input.....E