Drain plug torque

[efnfast]

So it started as "what torque should the oil drain plug be". As I try to find an answer to this it also raised the question about the pan bolts.

Can someone tell me what the torque should be on both the drain plug and the oil pan.

T.I.A.

Steve:salute:

[tomtom72]

oil pan bolts = 20 ft/lbs or 26 N/m
oil pan drain plug = 37 ft/lbs or 50 N/m

:cheers:
Tom

[efnfast]

Thank you sir.:cheers:

[Paul Workman]

Thank you sir.:cheers:

Just about ALL of the bolts I've removed on this motor for various reasons, from breather bolts to IH bolts, the plenum, and you name it bolts, have been loose. All of them are now torqued with a dab of Locktite (blue for everyting except red LT on the flywheel) threads. Now they seem to stay put pretty well - no leaky.

As for the steel/aluminum contact between the various plugs and the pan and the transmission, for examples, I reinstalled them with Neversieze or teflon tape; the latter is prolly best to prevent seepage during temp cycles.

Just a thought.

P.

[efnfast]

Thanks guys, on that note, headers are going on the car as soon as they come back from Swain Tech. Tourque on those? Lock tite?

:salute:

[efnfast]

Thanks D, I'll pick up a set. The torque chart would not open.

Steve

[Socalerv]

Thanks D, I'll pick up a set. The torque chart would not open.

Steve


Give the chart another try, it opened with no problems for me.

[secondchance]

Thanks guys, on that note, headers are going on the car as soon as they come back from Swain Tech. Tourque on those? Lock tite?

:salute:
Unless you pull the motor you will not have sufficient room to even consider using a torque wrench. You will most likely be using a small box end wrench and limit of torque will be determined by pain threshold you can deal with.
As for the loctite, I did not use any.

[VetteMed]

Unless you pull the motor you will not have sufficient room to even consider using a torque wrench. You will most likely be using a small box end wrench and limit of torque will be determined by pain threshold you can deal with.
As for the loctite, I did not use any.

I agree. I installed my headers the same way.

[tomtom72]

Okay, so what is the collective thinking on the header bolts and using blue loc- tite? Not needed?

I was going to use the blue on as many as I could get to go in, except for the center(?) locations where the factory used studs that go into the oil passage. On those I was planning on using Loc-tite thread sealer at the end and blue up near the head of the bolt.

:confused:

[Paul Workman]

General Bolt Torque and use of Sealants TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=85244)
Bolt Torque Chart (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=134095)
Sealant and Thread locker TIPS (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=85425)

Always use Stage 8 Exhaust Header Bolts with locks (Headers Only). Do not have to torque the Header Bolts too much as the locks will assure the bolts do not loosen (torqued header bolts into aluminum which area gets very hot makes removal of bolts at any time difficult. Use a bit of antiseize on Header Bolts with the Stage 8 Locks). Also use a bit of antiseize on all spark plugs.

Header Bolt Kit (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=105161)

Only works with Headers however as the individual locks use the header pipes as a stop. You do not need a Header Bolt in EVERY threaded hole. On my installation of SW Headers, removed the motor mount insulation each side as the insulation on top of mount was touching the headers.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/Headerbolts.jpghttp://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=146&pictureid=1064

On Cam Covers when SS Bolts are used I now use no loctite and no Antisieze using the Aluminum Stat-O-Seal washers. The Stat-O-Seal Aluminum washers with molded Buna-N inner seals are much more reliable than the more common steel stat-o-seals. The Stat-O-Seal Aluminum Washers act as a bolt sealing and locking mechanism. I use no Loctite or Antiseize on the Plenum SS bolts as the Plenum may be removed from time to time.

If the rubber portion fails to make contact all around the port, the aluminum will act as a crush washer, providing a reliable metal to metal seal. Use them to seal screws, bolts or plumbing fittings. The Buna-N seal is resistant to petroleum fuels and oils. Pegasus Auto Racing (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3245)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1%20NET/StatOSeal.jpg

There are several opinions on this but I have always used a thin coat of Permatex on water pump, oil pan and oil filter housing gaskets (both sides of gasket). I always use a thin coat of Permatex on the oil pan drain plug and differential drain plug also. This not only helps seal the plugs but also acts as a thread locker (A little less bolt torque with a good sealant) .

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/form_a_gasket_aviation.jpg

The best LT5 Metric Tool set is the Flex Head Ratchet Set.
The 8mm works great for the Battery Terminals.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/FlexHeadRatchet.jpg

As always, Cliff... you have a talent and are an asset to the group!;)

P.

[Paul Workman]

Okay, so what is the collective thinking on the header bolts and using blue loc- tite? Not needed?

I was going to use the blue on as many as I could get to go in, except for the center(?) locations where the factory used studs that go into the oil passage. On those I was planning on using Loc-tite thread sealer at the end and blue up near the head of the bolt.

:confused:

Tom,

I used the blue LT - on the header bolts that I got from ACE H/W. I used them inconjunction with a new gasket from Jerry.

For insurance, I smeared a film of red high-temp RTV on both sides of the gasket - overkill on a new one, perhaps? AnywayZ, no leaky after a couple years and counting.;)

P.

[A26B]

Loctite 242, 243 & 262 is only rated to 300F. Heat is used as an aid to dissassembly. Vibration is the cause of fastener loosening and only occurs under running conditions. I haven't checked the actual, operating temperature of the cyl head at the exhaust port, but I would expect temperatures in excess of 300F.

Considering the difficulty of accessing header bolts and the small tools used, I would not recommend the use of Loctite on header/manifold bolts. It could make disassembly problematic.

[tomtom72]

Thank you Gentlemen, Cliff, Paul and Jerry. :worship:

Paul, I use some form of permatex on all my gaskets via buttering so I'm hearing Ya with that one!

Cliff, what can I say? You are complete right down to the crossed "T-ees" and "dotted I's"! I'll go run down the links and do some reading. Thanks amigo.

Jerry, I never considered the temp limits of any of the loc-tite products. My bad. :o You're obviously right about the temps at the exhaust ports I would dare say. Sooo, I guess I'll be looking into thwarting the mechanical vibration that will loosen the header bolts with a mechanical solution. Thanks for the facts on that stuff! Thank You Jerry.

:cheers:
Tom

[AustinJohn]

Two questions. First, following up a separate discussion with Jerry, have any of you seen an aluminum oil drain plug (Jerry says he has not) and second, what size is the oil drain plug?

Thanks!

John

[VetteMed]

Two questions. First, following up a separate discussion with Jerry, have any of you seen an aluminum oil drain plug (Jerry says he has not) and second, what size is the oil drain plug?

Thanks!

John

I think it's 5/8 - 18. I can't say I've seen one in aluminum, but the ZF6 drain/fill plugs are indeed aluminum.

Andrew

[AustinJohn]

I think it's 5/8 - 18. I can't say I've seen one in aluminum, but the ZF6 drain/fill plugs are indeed aluminum.

Andrew

Thanks, Andrew. I'm getting ready to do my first oil change after driving the car back from California and have my oil, filter and seal washer from Jerry so I wanted to be prepared if the plug was some strange size that I wouldn't otherwise have in my tool chest.

John

[VetteMed]

Thanks, Andrew. I'm getting ready to do my first oil change after driving the car back from California and have my oil, filter and seal washer from Jerry so I wanted to be prepared if the plug was some strange size that I wouldn't otherwise have in my tool chest.

John

Did you mean to ask what size the hex head is, on the drain plug? The 5/8-18 is the thread size/pitch.

I think the stock plug uses a 13 or 14mm socket. Nothing exotic.

[WVZR-1]

I think it's 5/8 - 18. I can't say I've seen one in aluminum, but the ZF6 drain/fill plugs are indeed aluminum.

Andrew

the 5/8-18 is correct for the thread & pitch, 9/16 for the box-wrench and I don't believe a ZF fill or drain plug is aluminum. Mine are "magnetic"! Those are in an NOS "Blue tag" but I believe I've checked those in the car also!

[VetteMed]

the 5/8-18 is correct for the thread & pitch, 9/16 for the box-wrench and I don't believe a ZF fill or drain plug is aluminum. Mine are "magnetic"!

You're right. The trans case is aluminum, the plugs are steel. Thanks for the correction. :cheers:

[AustinJohn]

Did you mean to ask what size the hex head is, on the drain plug? The 5/8-18 is the thread size/pitch.

I think the stock plug uses a 13 or 14mm socket. Nothing exotic.

Yes, hex head size, Andrew. My '94 uses a 14mm socket. John

[AustinJohn]

the 5/8-18 is correct for the thread & pitch, 9/16 for the box-wrench and I don't believe a ZF fill or drain plug is aluminum. Mine are "magnetic"! Those are in an NOS "Blue tag" but I believe I've checked those in the car also!

I can confirm that it's 9/16. Thanks.