Getting ready to pull the engine!!!!

[oricale]

Hello all, as you all have seen I have a timing chain to change,..I am NOW ready to pull the engine!

I just have a few questions:

I know there are some folks who have recently pulled their engines and some even have it down to a science! SOOOOO I would like to know a good "how to pull it" by the steps. I have pulled a few engines but I would like to do this the smartest, easiest, safest way, and not break anything! I have the entire upper assembly off and the cam covers, wires, mount nuts, etc. have all removed.

- Can I leave the radiator in?
- Will I be fully dropping the tranny?? (exhaust as well of course?)
- Would this be the greatest time to install headers?
- What is the weight of the Engine?
- Do I have to take apart the wipers to get the motor out? (I have it loose but not out)

Anyway, all help would be great! I NOW have my hoist and stand ready to go!

[Paul Workman]

I recon it may vary depending if you're doing it with a lift, or off of jack stands. Pete and Marc can do it blindfolded, depending on which way you do it.

I've only done an LT5 a couple times, and an LT1 (95 Vette) once. But, a couple things stick out that I appreciate when doing it is -

- Beam Plates for the C-beam,
- and as Cliff said, the load leveler is nice - especially if doing it by yourself on your back.
- And, you'll want to remove the heater cover and windshield motor assembly to ease things.
- gonna need a bottle jack to manuver the trans and diff when removing the C-beam and then putting it all back together again.

Other than that, I found it's about like any other motor pull, except for the number of wire connections. (Pictures before you pull it might come in handy - did for me, especially around the alternator and down to the oil pressure switch and crank postion sensor routing.)

Back when I pulled my first ZF in my LT1 Vette, I asked Bill Beaudreux (sp?) about using a transmission jack, since I didn't have one. I was surprised when he said he didn't use one. He said he balances it on that circular cup on the hydraulic floor jack. He said he finds it easier to line everything up as he can pivot the tranny in any direction. I never used a trans jack ever, so I can't say if it is earier to use one. I can't say I've ever had a hankering for one either. Now if I had a lift, that would be different.

You'll figure it out. No biggie, and not that much different from any others I've done, 'cept for the C-beam PIA. Oh! No need to remove the hood either. That'll help.

P.

[oricale]

Yes, thanks for the info,!

I have not messed with the tranny yet,..thats the first thing,..separating it,..
then making sure all the wires and everything are out of the way,...

I have a hoist AND a leveler as well as a badd-*** tranny jack,...

[Scrrem]

Questions!:


Can I leave the radiator in??
will I be fully dropping the tranny??(exhaust as well of course??)
would this be the greatest time to install headers?
what is the weight of the Engine?
Do I have to take apart the wipers to get the motor out?(I have it loose but not coming out)


If it was me, I'd remove the radiator, no sense risking damaging it.

Yes, tranny needs to come out. Support the back of the motor before you remove the "C" beam.

Yes, good time to put the headers on, will cut your install time in half.

[oricale]

allright this all makes sense,...moving forward!,..Sccrem,..where are you buddy!,..need a pair of hands,..!:cheers:

[Scrrem]

allright this all makes sense,...moving forward!,..Sccrem,..where are you buddy!,..need a pair of hands,..!:cheers:

Been in AZ, just got back Sunday. When are you doing this? I got some time this weekend if you need a hand. Let me know, I'll be there!
Rich

[oricale]

Thats the plan!,...I'll give dave a call as well

[oricale]

I will probably take off early tomarrow to prep, so we can move process along so we can tear off the heads and so on to see what we have before us!.....

[Scrrem]

Thats the plan!,...I'll give dave a call as well

Dave it down at the Mecum Auction in Kissimmee Florida this week. I'll see if Paul or Yun are around this weekend.
Rich

[oricale]

Woo-Hoo!!!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

*Note: Reach through windshield wiper grille (the small removable access above windshield wiper motor arm connection). With socket wrench just loosen the two nuts on each windshield wiper arm (DO NOT REMOVE THOSE NUTS). Slide both windshield wiper arms off the motor sockets. Relube those windshield wiper sockets on the motor when reinstalling the windshield wiper arms. Remove the three bolts holding the windshield wiper motor in place and remove motor. To reinstall the wiper arms reaching through the removable access with a long needle nose plyers you can slip the arms back on the socket and tighten the nuts after you reinstall the wiper motor.

First I am hearing about removing the wiper motor and I did not touch mine when I R/R'd the motor for rebuild. I think I just took off the cover per Jeff or someone's recommendation. I guess better safe than sorry though, but I know it can be done without removing since I did not.

[oricale]

Allright we're movin along!!!:)A few great guys came out too help me yank out my sick LT5,...

http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad18/oricale/049.jpg
(Hey Rich, Stop Laying on the Job!)
http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad18/oricale/052.jpg
"Ok so,..your engine has a slight issue!"
http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad18/oricale/050-1.jpg
Phil,...having WAAAY too much fun!
http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad18/oricale/051.jpg
And Here is Paul our Managing director!

[oricale]

we got it out and I went ahead and cleaned the shop and pulled the sick head off,..We were all hoping that the issue was just a broken timing chain and a couple of bent valves,....BUT!..........

http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad18/oricale/062.jpg

THAT EXACTLY WHAT WE FOUND!!!

http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad18/oricale/064.jpg

OTHER than a few dings in the pistons and some broken plastic,...this is what we have...
http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad18/oricale/063.jpg

Moving forward..

A BIG THANKS AGAIN TO MY WAZOO BRETHREN!

RICH,PAUL AND PHIL!!!!:cheers:

[Scrrem]

Well, the damage could have been much worse. Glad we could help you out.
Rich

[RICKYRJ1]

Some WAZOO heavy hitters, Where's Darrin? :confused: Glad all work out for ya.

[Pete]

So what did you guys find?

I see a couple of exhaust valves need replacing,what else.

Pete

[bdw18_123]

Looks very similar to what mine looked like, although it looks like yours happened at a higher RPM than mine because the valve marks in the pistons on mine weren't nearly that big.

[oricale]

Hey Pete that is it so far, the dings in the pistons
Aren't as bad as they look, right now I'm trying to pull the
Other head but I don't know if I have to pulle the timing cover first?

Hey bdw, what parts did you buy to finish the engine?
Did you have your heads redone??...how much??

[Pete]

Hey Pete that is it so far, the dings in the pistons
Aren't as bad as they look, right now I'm trying to pull the
Other head but I don't know if I have to pulle the timing cover first?

Hey bdw, what parts did you buy to finish the engine?
Did you have your heads redone??...how much??

I know about valves and pistons meeting all most of my old pistons had little eye brows from valves.

Timing cover doesn't need to come off.
Just make sure you take off the plug from front of head to get to the screw that holds down the chain guide.

Pete

[A26B]

Since he has a chain to replace, the front cover will have to come off. Needs to look around in there and in the pan for any stray pieces & damage.

[oricale]

Hey Jerry,.I did,..VERY minimal damage,..just the plastic pieces for the tensioners,...Yeah I got the harmonic off and will pull the cover off tomarrow and slide the sprockets off to get the chain looses enough to removed the cams ect.

I am also going to remove ALL of the secondary crap!!!!,..

sooo.

heads ported
haibeck chip
secondary system removed
OBX headers
new chains
new tensioners or plastics
pre-oiler
samco rubbers


any other ideas??

[bdw18_123]

...
Hey bdw, what parts did you buy to finish the engine?
Did you have your heads redone??...how much??

I didn't have to buy timing chains, sprockets or chain guides because my car came with a second full set of low mile used ones. Another used timing cover in cherry condition was also included.

The main stuff I bought was a full gasket set of course, in my case 6 used valves, one cylinder liner and set of piston rings (used from Jerry) because one liner had some chips in it I think relating to coolant getting in there at some point. Also new rod cap bolts for that same cylinder. I had to buy a power steering reservoir too because mine had one of the mount tabs ripped off and it made a hole.

Yes, I did have my heads redone. My buddy Evan knows a guy local here that is really good with that sort of thing and he had done LT5 heads before, so I got a really good deal for the head work - $400 (he normally charges twice that) for replacing the valves, 5-angle valve job, remachine the head surface, leak test, the whole deal on both heads. I also got new valve seals and had the exhaust valve sleeves machined to accept valve seals (since mine is a '90).

You also need new cam sprocket bolts. I bought mine from Marc, but Jerry has them now too.

And like Jerry said, you will need to remove the timing cover to replace the chains. You'll want to pull the oil pan also, because most likely there will be bits of chain down there (there was in mine).

[Pete]

Since he has a chain to replace, the front cover will have to come off. Needs to look around in there and in the pan for any stray pieces & damage.


I did not know there was a broken chain,then yes cover needs to come off.

Pete