Trans drain question

[Z51JEFF]

Ive got to change the oil and while under the car I want to tighten up all the pan bolts,clean the pan up and change the trans fluid.Ill be doing this in the garage with the car up on jack stands.How easy is it going to be getting to the fill plug on the trans?Thanks.

[tccrab]

Jeff:

Getting to the drain plug on the trans is fairly easy.
It's right on the bottom.
Gettiting the fill plug OUT can be quite a challenge.
They're both big allen plugs, 6mm or so if I recall correctly, and there's not a lot of room between the side of the trans and the body of the car to get a wrench on the fill plug.
I've a picture of it around somewhere, I'll have to go digging around.


TomC
'Crabs

[Z51JEFF]

Jeff:

Getting to the drain plug on the trans is fairly easy.
It's right on the bottom.
Gettiting the fill plug OUT can be quite a challenge.
They're both big allen plugs, 6mm or so if I recall correctly, and there's not a lot of room between the side of the trans and the body of the car to get a wrench on the fill plug.
I've a picture of it around somewhere, I'll have to go digging around.


TomC
'Crabs

Thanks for the info Tom,I just need to find the fill plug.Im working in a one car garage so whenever I do work like this I try and have everything set in place before I begin the job.Ive got a Hurst shifter I thought about trying to put in the car,not in this garage:-x.Once I find out the wrench size for the fill plug I can modify something at work.

[ittlfly]

Here ya go...S&K makes the exact plug remover 1/2" socket tool. You can just buy the 17mm as a stand alone like I did. Works great.

http://www.skhandtool.com/bit-sockets/41417.aspx

[tomtom72]

Jeff,

Like it was said the both plugs are aluminum pipe plugs with recessed 17mm heads. Be careful because I have a set like ittlfly has and I can not put the 17mm up there when it's on the 1/2" rachet as my trans tunnel isn't wide enough. Also be careful with the 17mm allen key as the heads on my plugs a fairly shallow and you don't get much of a bite if the plug is very stubborn.

If this is the first time you're doing a change, clean all the sand & dirt out of the plugs. I don't know if having the trans fully up to temp or having it cold is a viable thought to deal with a stubborn plug. I know the next time I do mine I'm going to look for plugs with the male heads, in brass, so you can get a real wrench on them.

:cheers:
Tom

[mike100]

Hazet 985 (http://www.thetoolnetwork.com/hazet_985_10_1_2_drive_stub_allen_socket.html)

Hazet makes a short version of 17mm plug insert that won't wobble, angle off, or strip. I got one back in the 90's when i was a VW mechanic.

[ittlfly]

Jeff,

Like it was said the both plugs are aluminum pipe plugs with recessed 17mm heads. Be careful because I have a set like ittlfly has and I can not put the 17mm up there when it's on the 1/2" rachet as my trans tunnel isn't wide enough.
:cheers:
Tom

Tom is right about not having enough room. I use a open end wrench on the hex barrel part of the socket to turn it. I forgot to mention that.

[mike100]

German socket for German transmission:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c265/mschrameck/Cars/Hazet17mm.jpg

[Aurora40]

I have an allen wrench and a 1/2" drive socket. The socket is like 4" long though, which is a pain, but I've always gotten it on there. You have to put it over the exhaust, and have just the right length extension, but it works. I put it on a breaker bar, though, not a ratchet, so the head is a lot smaller. I think you'd have to be the Hulk to get it off with just an Allen wrench, they can get really stuck on there, especially if it's been decades since the fluid was changed. Once it's loose though, the Allen key is easier to get it out.

FWIW, it helps to warm the trans up, I drive the car around for a bit to get the trans hot, then let the car sit for 15 minutes or more just so the exhaust isn't scalding. They come off much easier than cold.

[Z51JEFF]

Thanks for all the tips guys.I took my 17MM Allen socket to work,chucked it up in the lathe and trimmed about 5/8 of an inch off of the length.I thin k with this and my breaker bar I should be able to get this off,thanks again.

[Jim Nolan]

I took a 17mm hex key and cut a piece off the handle and put it into a 17mm socket. Worked like a champ.

[A26B]

Thanks for all the tips guys.I took my 17MM Allen socket to work,chucked it up in the lathe and trimmed about 5/8 of an inch off of the length.I thin k with this and my breaker bar I should be able to get this off,thanks again.

That's good! Hope you didn't leave any chamfer on it, just a little hand filing to de-burr. The plug hex is very shallow, so not much engagement, & hard to keep straight. Galvanic weld (steel plug/alum trans) adds to the problem of getting it loose.

On my 94, The fill plug was tight, but the drain was a real bitch, 1/2" breaker bar with cheater. Mine went back with new plugs and teflon tape.

[Hammer]

Just a few words of caution.

Make sure you get the fill plug out first. VERY IMPORTANT
Bill B. has the replacement plugs at a very reasonable price. I'd order two (they are the same) before getting started, just in case. http://www.zfdoc.com/ (http://www.zfdoc.com/)
If you cannot get them out with the socket, there is usually enough thread of the plug sticking out that you can remove them with vice grips or a pipe wrench. This is where the new plugs from Bill come in handy.
Good luck.

[Z51JEFF]

just a little hand filing to de-burr.

This was exactly what I did,just buzzed the edges a hair to remove the sharp edge.

[tomtom72]

Just a few words of caution.

Make sure you get the fill plug out first. VERY IMPORTANT
Bill B. has the replacement plugs at a very reasonable price. I'd order two (they are the same) before getting started, just in case. http://www.zfdoc.com/ (http://www.zfdoc.com/)
If you cannot get them out with the socket, there is usually enough thread of the plug sticking out that you can remove them with vice grips or a pipe wrench. This is where the new plugs from Bill come in handy.
Good luck.

Jon, any suggestions for if there is not enough of the plug sticking out? No not mine, my bud from CT. I can't get his fill plug out!

Jerry, our OEM plugs are steel? I was going to look for brass plugs, as our threads look like IPS threads? I want the ones with the external head so I can use a 6" pipe wrench on them.

Oh Jeff, sorry for the Hi-Jack man!:o

:cheers:
Tom

[Hammer]

Jon, any suggestions for if there is not enough of the plug sticking out? No not mine, my bud from CT. I can't get his fill plug out!
Sorry, I haven't had that problem. I would think first to try some heat if you have that ability. But a call to Bill might be in order here as I would think he has dealt with that before and could advise.

Jerry, our OEM plugs are steel? I was going to look for brass plugs, as our threads look like IPS threads? I want the ones with the external head so I can use a 6" pipe wrench on them.
I think Bill's plugs are aluminum. That's a great idea on the plug, if you can find one that has the right threads of course.

Happy Thanksgiving.

[tomtom72]

Ya see? That's why we are a tight group here! Thanks Jon!:thumbsup:

Hey man Happy Turkey Day to your & yours too!:cheers:

I never thought of asking Bill. Well, I did, but the man is sooo busy I feel bad asking him Q's. I know he is a great guy and I should just drop him an e-mail.

Yea, on my bud's car the factory ran both plugs in almost to the head! It stinks! I gave up and I feel badly for not being able to finish the job. I did try some, very little heat from my MAAP gas torch. I just was a bit worried that I'd over cook it & do something I'd really regret!

The only reason I even suggested that the OE plugs could be pipe threads is that they are tapered like IPS threads, or at least look like that on my plugs.

Jon, thanks for your time on this! Jeff, again sorry to be a hi-jacker.

:cheers:
Tom

[WVZR-1]

I'm quite sure the drain and fill are M24 X 1.5 - It could be a "tapered plug" and likely is but I've never seen that in print. BMW's are I believe.

I believe that there is also a "DIMPLER" available that is M24 X1.5 that has a magnetic insert like the drain plugs for the LT5. That will have a hex on it and specifies "tapered" for the BMW's. There's a 14mm long one that doesn't specify "tapered" that might include also a gasket. I believe there's an internal magnet in the trans but the case would need split to service it. I'm sure it wasn't meant to be serviced!

The original fill plug in an NOS "blue-tag" protrudes from the case maybe three threads which leads me to believe it's actually a taper like the BMW. The plugs are steel!

Here's the "Dimpler": http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/contactus.html

Here's a link to MAGDANA that might be able to do these: http://www.magdana.com/index.html

He's been a USA vendor for some time and I believe was a vendor/sponsor at one time, maybe still!

[Z51JEFF]

Jon, thanks for your time on this! Jeff, again sorry to be a hi-jacker.

:cheers:
Tom

Thats alright Tom,any and all info is always helpful.

[Z51JEFF]

Got it done guys,no grief or drama but my breaker bar was about an inch too long,cars up on stands and cant get it any higher.Had to come up with some creative angles on the breaker bar handle to get a good bite on the socket-trans plug.There was no way a ratchet and socket would fit in the space allowed.When I get some time Ill measure the combined depth of the breaker bar with socket attached for future reference.Im using the Amsoil Synthetic fluid instead of the Castrol fluid.I figure Amsoil has made me a believer in the motor oil,why not the trans fluid.Thanks again to everyone for the tips,the Brother hood lives!