Any recommendations for new clutch slave cylinder?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Man, can I get a break? After driving around and having fun with the new horsepower and prepping to go take my second emissions testing on Thursday, my clutch goes out.

At least I was close to home and just had to run 1 red light to turn around and get back home when trying to get some gas.

So I check out the system and find the clutch master bone dry and start thinking WTF since it was driving all day and night before with no hint of issues until the next morning. So I top it off and proceed to bleed it with help from a fellow C4 member that just happened to come over that day. No problem and air exits the line pretty quickly with pedal pressure and it is back to normal. At first inspection of the entire system I could not find any leak, but I knew there is a leak somewhere.

So I check it out again today since I was going to replace the O2 sensors and PCV valves and not going to attempt driving 3 hours with a clutch like that. I still could not find any leak, then finally after rubbing the surface with my fingers all over I find the hidden leak on the joint of the clutch slave cylinder housing and peel back a little of the rubberized black powdercoating or whatever you call it. This housing shoud be one piece in my opinion and no wonder it leaks.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j86/hawaiizr1/CIMG0075.jpg

So I thought to myself, no problem I have a new spare that I brought with me. I bought it years ago from a Registry member while I was stationed in Georgia back in 2004 but never really looked at it. I remember Bill B mentioning the how to and the reversed seal so I decide to check it out and find it is rusty inside the cylinder and I'm glad I opened it up to check before attempting install. So now I need a new one. I thought I might be able to clean up the rust and put it all back together but I don't think so. I will consult with Bill and get his opinion on Monday AZ time. So here is a new cylinder that is worthless and AC Delco box. This really pisses me off because the part on the car is new from late last year and less than 500 miles on it. Then to have a new part in the box and rusted inside is another thing; it could have been that way when I got it but who would know and think to inspect the inside of a new part.

So I see that someone mentioned that Bill gets his from Rock Auto. Bill's site is down, but I know I followed his recommendation to upgrade to the later model parts. I look up application for 94 MY and I see there is a bunch of brands with varying prices:

Rhino pac/World Car $52.79
SACHS $82.79
AC Delco $91.79
Wagner $83.79
Exedy $209.79
Brute Power $79.99
Bendix $60.99
Dorman $65.79

Exedy must be wrong and I don't think that is a clutch slave cylinder. I just noticed that looking at the photos all the other brands are like a cast metal body that appears 1 piece and the AC Delco is the POS that I have with a metal case that is 2 piece and joined or at least appears that way. The replacement part that I have that is rusted is also a glossy black metal housing that is coated with a rubberized paint. Can't we get good quality parts these days?

In an case, is there any recommendations?

So I have to cancel my emissions test appointment and leave from work as I am deadlined.

Thanks in advance!

Craig

[Corbusa]

I feel your pain Craig.. I've had a month of STUFF on a job going bad.. This past month ate me up... And you are correct Its getting really hard to get good quality anything anymore.. Remember there's not much profit in a product that last too long..
Good luck getting her straightened out... I'm sure there's plenty of good advise on this site to get it all working properly again...cheers

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I feel your pain Craig.. I've had a month of STUFF on a job going bad.. This past month ate me up... And you are correct Its getting really hard to get good quality anything anymore.. Remember there's not much profit in a product that last too long..
Good luck getting her straightened out... I'm sure there's plenty of good advise on this site to get it all working properly again...cheers

Thanks for the words of encouragement. It is always something and hopefully I will get to a point where I can just enjoy driving, gas and checking the oil. Everything is new on the car so I was hoping to go a little while without issues.:handshak:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

This May help in your emergency ;)
2:00 am here in SD :D
ZF Doc seems to be down.

CLUTCH MASTER/SLAVE
Replace clutch master http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj9.htm
Clutch slave issues http://www.zfdoc.com/CHS_Actuator_Seal_Fault.htm
Master/slave replacement http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=83679 (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=83679)
Removing clutch master http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=83241 (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=83241)
Bleeding the clutch slave http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=98894 (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=98894)
Ebay ZR1 Clutch Cylinder http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=ZR1+clutch+cylinder+&_cqr=true&_nkwusc=ZR1+clutch+cylnder&_rdc=1

Thanks Cliff, but I don't need any help or techical information so I posted in general topics. Just looking for a brand that is good with no issues for clutch slave cylinder.

[Gunny]

Craig,

Just went down this path in August ... contacted Bill B & he put me in touch with Jim Jandik of Power Torque Systems.
Jim Jandik 641.342.7446 -- http://www.powertorquesystems.com/

Bill B, Jim J. and others recommended that I replace slave & master at the same time plus my mechanic in Augusta said the exact same thing. I ordered both from Jim J. and had them drop shipped to Stephen Reems (great Corvette mechanic in Augusta) and they arrived within 2 days. Stephen had me up in running by the next day. One part was rebuilt and the other was brand new.

Now the best part ... all of Jim J.'s parts are the REAL thing, no cheap knock-offs. He still has NOS (new old stock) of some parts that he bought when GM was in the process of becoming government motors and he reverse-engineered the proper tooling to rebuild all the parts to exact original specifications. That's why Bill B. was so high on Jim's parts and availability. I had several phone conversations with Jim Jandik and I was very impressed. Can't remember the prices but it was not out of line nor was it much higher than buying cheap knock-offs that usually don't fit correctly. Jim will want your core back (he doesn't want non-OEM cores) since he's re-building everything to work right.

I hope you will give Jim a call. Be sure to say Hi for me and also mention that you are a member of the Registry ... he will give you a price break. Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with Power Torque Systems in any way, but I am a VERY satisfied customer who is happy to get GENUINE parts for my Z.

George

[mike100]

I got the cast unit in Feb and it works just fine...just looks a little clunky, but after being locked out of shifting 10 miles from my house...you can keep the oem ones. I got mine from one of the big chain parts stores-its one of the ones you linked info to (about $50).

I think the previous owner just kept the fluid topped up- it was actually ok if you kept it wet.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

Just went down this path in August ... contacted Bill B & he put me in touch with Jim Jandik of Power Torque Systems.
Jim Jandik 641.342.7446 -- http://www.powertorquesystems.com/

Bill B, Jim J. and others recommended that I replace slave & master at the same time plus my mechanic in Augusta said the exact same thing. I ordered both from Jim J. and had them drop shipped to Stephen Reems (great Corvette mechanic in Augusta) and they arrived within 2 days. Stephen had me up in running by the next day. One part was rebuilt and the other was brand new.

Now the best part ... all of Jim J.'s parts are the REAL thing, no cheap knock-offs. He still has NOS (new old stock) of some parts that he bought when GM was in the process of becoming government motors and he reverse-engineered the proper tooling to rebuild all the parts to exact original specifications. That's why Bill B. was so high on Jim's parts and availability. I had several phone conversations with Jim Jandik and I was very impressed. Can't remember the prices but it was not out of line nor was it much higher than buying cheap knock-offs that usually don't fit correctly. Jim will want your core back (he doesn't want non-OEM cores) since he's re-building everything to work right.

I hope you will give Jim a call. Be sure to say Hi for me and also mention that you are a member of the Registry ... he will give you a price break. Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with Power Torque Systems in any way, but I am a VERY satisfied customer who is happy to get GENUINE parts for my Z.

George

Thanks George. I did not think of contacting Jim Jandik and I did buy an replacement clutch fork from him last year. I'll try to contact him and see what he has to discuss this rebuilding. I'll have to wake up very early to call him before going to work tomorrow. I wanted to contact Bill B too and not sure what is going on with his website these days.

Thanks again,

Craig

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I got the cast unit in Feb and it works just fine...just looks a little clunky, but after being locked out of shifting 10 miles from my house...you can keep the oem ones. I got mine from one of the big chain parts stores-its one of the ones you linked info to (about $50).

I think the previous owner just kept the fluid topped up- it was actually ok if you kept it wet.

mike100,

Thanks for the reply and I saw you post on the CF so I appreciate it. I did order a iron cast on from Amazon (Centric) just to get one on the way until I can something better. It seems the only steel housing units are from AC Delco/GM and those are two piece so natrually it will eventually leak.

Craig

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Update. After conversations with Bill Bordreau and Jim Jandik with recommendation by George, I went with Jim's TRW units even though it is the very same unit I have problems with. Once all the details was explained to me and highly encouraged by the ZF Doc himself, I trust the product I will receive from Jim:

http://www.powertorquesystems.com/

Now I understand the two piece housing is not the issue and saw the close up photos of the details and also taking apart me new part that was defective I understand.

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_mastercylinder.htm

I also found that the small leak is coming from the inside of the bellhousing so it all makes sense. Ordered a new unit from Jim and sending him my defective unit for rebuild. I will also send him the unit on the car now once I get his replacement. I cancelled the order from Amazon for the Centric cast unit.

I am good to go now and prefer to have the clutch slave cylinder from Jim Jandik even though it is 3 times the cost of the unit from Amazon. I hope this will end my clutch hydraulic problem for at least several years.:cheers:

[Scrrem]

Update. After conversations with Bill Bordreau and Jim Jandik with recommendation by George, I went with Jim's TRW units even though it is the very same unit I have problems with. Once all the details was explained to me and highly encouraged by the ZF Doc himself, I trust the product I will receive from Jim:

http://www.powertorquesystems.com/

Now I understand the two piece housing is not the issue and saw the close up photos of the details and also taking apart me new part that was defective I understand.

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_mastercylinder.htm

I also found that the small leak is coming from the inside of the bellhousing so it all makes sense. Ordered a new unit from Jim and sending him my defective unit for rebuild. I will also send him the unit on the car now once I get his replacement. I cancelled the order from Amazon for the Centric cast unit.

I am good to go now and prefer to have the clutch slave cylinder from Jim Jandik even though it is 3 times the cost of the unit from Amazon. I hope this will end my clutch hydraulic problem for at least several years.:cheers:

Yeah Craig, I just spoke to Jim this afternoon and place my order for Master/Slave cylinders and he said he just spoke to you. Once I get my transmission back from Bill, everything is coming out. I really enjoyed taking with Jim, really down to earth guy!!

Rich

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Yeah Craig, I just spoke to Jim this afternoon and place my order for Master/Slave cylinders and he said he just spoke to you. Once I get my transmission back from Bill, everything is coming out. I really enjoyed taking with Jim, really down to earth guy!!

Rich

Good deal Rich and great news. I hope my trans will last me until I return to US; I can't imagine what just the shipping alone would cost. Yeah, Jim is a great guy and taught me a few things about the slave cylinders.

So when are you coming to Japan for some beers and sushi?

[Scrrem]

Good deal Rich and great news. I hope my trans will last me until I return to US; I can't imagine what just the shipping alone would cost. Yeah, Jim is a great guy and taught me a few things about the slave cylinders.

So when are you coming to Japan for some beers and sushi?

Yeah, shipping from VA to AZ was bad enough :mad:

Not going to get there, they are sending another one of my team members to do the Japan run :cry: but I will be back in HI second week in January. I'll toast you from the bar :cheers:
Rich

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Yeah, shipping from VA to AZ was bad enough :mad:

Not going to get there, they are sending another one of my team members to do the Japan run :cry: but I will be back in HI second week in January. I'll toast you from the bar :cheers:
Rich

Hey Rich,

I understand, but it was a cool thought. You lucky guy, have a good one.

Craig :handshak:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Update!!

Happy Thanksgiving Day (today in Japan)! No turkey to cook and a day off so I decided to replace the clutch slave cylinder (TRW unit from Jim Jandik). I feel confident and trust this one since it even has an inspection sticker from him on the bag.

As soon as I started to loosen the bolts, hydraulic fluid started dripping so it was leaking into the bellhousing. No issues with the new unit and very quick and easy to replace. All I did was use a syringe to fill the slave cylinder after pushing the plunger into the wall against my body while I slowly released and filled the cylinder until it was full. Put the shipping cap back on and careful take it under the car with me. Once I removed the line ensuring the master was full I replaced the line on the new unit before it drains out the master. Bolt on the cylinder, top off master and pump the clutch until no more bubbles come up and it is self bled with about 50 pumps. No need to even use the bleed valve with the pump/hold technique.

I think the defective new unit when I built the motor with all the new components late last year was a problem from the start and this is the first time since the motor was built that I have a healthy, properly working hydraulic clutch system. It feels different and it is a firmer feel.

George,

Thanks again for the reminder to contact Jim about the clutch slave cylinder. He has my other new unit that had rust in it to rebuild and I'm going to send him this defective unit too. He will to an autopsy to see what caused it to fail so soon. My guess is I had one of those with the sharp edges that cut the seal upon assembly with that bad batch.

[Scrrem]

Thanks for the post Craig, sending this to the printer as we speak and using it shortly. Got my transmisstion back from Bill and new clutch master/slave cylinders from Jim. All I need is a throwout bearing and I'm in business.
Rich

[VetteMed]

Great info, Craig!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks for the post Craig, sending this to the printer as we speak and using it shortly. Got my transmisstion back from Bill and new clutch master/slave cylinders from Jim. All I need is a throwout bearing and I'm in business.
Rich

Hi Rich,

Sorry, I did not intend for it to be a how to with details. Looking back I should have put together that with photos after the previous experiences trying to bleed the system various ways. I wish I knew that you needed a throwout bearing. I have several new ones but they are in long term storage in CA and only brought one spare to Japan.

By the way, I did not mention flushing the system as I did it prior when troubleshooting the problem with the defective on, but you're going to want to do that. I have a mityvac so I fill the reservoir, pull fluid from the bottom and continue until flushed via bleed valve. So many ways to skin the cat as they say. As for the bleeding of the system, since I am always working alone I found the filling of the clutch slave with the method against the wall and body with syringe works best for me. Any air in system seems to be from there as long as the reservoir is kept full and when the line is being connected the fluid is leaking from gravity so very little air in the system.

I used to the do the old pump, hold and bleed with my wife helping and that never seemed to work with this system. Had no idea that just pumping with the cover off it bleeds itself due to gravity and design. I hope you find a throwout bearing for a reasonable price.

Craig:handshak:

[Jagdpanzer]

All I need is a throwout bearing and I'm in business.
Rich


Power Torque Jim has those to

http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Corvette/Products/CorvetteProdDetailTB_89_93.htm

http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Images/Corvette/89_93TO_Bearing.jpg

[Scrrem]

[QUOTE=Jagdpanzer;127968]Power Torque Jim has those to

http://www.powertorquesystems.com/Corvette/Products/CorvetteProdDetailTB_89_93.htm

/QUOTE]

Yep, thanks Phil, call Jim Friday, got one enroute.
Rich