SW headers on the Way!

[USAFPILOT]

Just ordered a shiny new set of headers for the beast. Anyone that has some good tips and tricks to offer me for the install would be much appreciated. They have a couple different sets to choose from and I went with the ZR1CORVCAT setup. It looked like a real long tube, where their factory connection setup looks shorter. I am hoping the pipes that would be intended to reach their resonator will line up into my B&B X-pipe...if not I guess I will be making one trip across town with headers only.

I saw another thread mentioning removing the air pump system or something. I'm not sure if I can get away with that in Houston or not. Thats also why I went with cats, because I do get hooked up to the sniffer.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Great choice. I wish they had all these options when I bought mine years ago. I'm still trying to figure out how to put cats on mine as I have the off road version. ZR1CORV3/8

Hit up Paul W if you want the oil dipstick bracket. You should have no problem bolting up this system. :cheers:

[ittlfly]

Just ordered a shiny new set of headers for the beast. Anyone that has some good tips and tricks to offer me for the install would be much appreciated. They have a couple different sets to choose from and I went with the ZR1CORVCAT setup. It looked like a real long tube, where their factory connection setup looks shorter. I am hoping the pipes that would be intended to reach their resonator will line up into my B&B X-pipe...if not I guess I will be making one trip across town with headers only.

I saw another thread mentioning removing the air pump system or something. I'm not sure if I can get away with that in Houston or not. Thats also why I went with cats, because I do get hooked up to the sniffer.

If you have a ''visual'' to pass along with the sniffer test, then you will flunk if you remove the air pump and its piping. That system is used to get the cats hotter quicker via the pump, check valves and tubes off the OEM headers. If your new LT have the air pipe hook ups installed, you are all set. If not then it dependes if you need the set up for the AIR visual inspection.

[ScottZ95ZR1]

I saw another thread mentioning removing the air pump system or something. I'm not sure if I can get away with that in Houston or not. Thats also why I went with cats, because I do get hooked up to the sniffer.

Your AIR injection system can't be made functional unless you ordered headers to include the AIR tubes, unless of course you have someone local modify the headers to add them. If it were me and I had to retain the AIR, I'd want the tubes installed by SW to ensure they stand behind their warranty as far as fitment goes.

Hopefully you won't have to keep the system - but I'd sure decide now before SW ships yours out without tubes.

[USAFPILOT]

huh...figures something would be missing. I guess I will find out tomorrow when I call them. They must have closed up shop already today. I guess if they shipped me the system without air tubes I will go without it and see what happens. I don't remember my emission tester guys ever looking for the AIR system...maybe, maybe not.

[ittlfly]

huh...figures something would be missing. I guess I will find out tomorrow when I call them. They must have closed up shop already today. I guess if they shipped me the system without air tubes I will go without it and see what happens. I don't remember my emission tester guys ever looking for the AIR system...maybe, maybe not.

The quick answer is give them a call and ask if a visual is part of the emissions testing......

[sammy]

you can send them to mark haibeck to have the tubes installed .i think he charges 300 to do that

[tomtom72]

Don't forget the EGR connection on the passenger side header, if you have to pass a visual exam you need that also.

:cheers:
Tom

[USAFPILOT]

Yeah they said they are going to have the EGR tube and they added the air system for me for a little more $$$, wallet hurting.

[bobbyhi]

Yeah they said they are going to have the EGR tube and they added the air system for me for a little more $$$, wallet hurting.

You're just getting started with $$$$$....:-D

[sammy]

just wondering why you didnt have corey make a set for you ?????

[A26B]

It would be a good time to replace you O2 sensors with Bosch from Autozone. The leads are a little longer than stock and will work without needing a wire extension kit (which I found to be waaay to long).

[USAFPILOT]

just wondering why you didnt have corey make a set for you ?????

I didn't want to let him have my car forever and a day. And, I would have to figure out how to get it there and back when my wife and two kids won't cooperate. It would be just an all around pita for me to get it to corey. I'll save him for bigger projects. I do think I will head over there for a tune once I get it all buttoned up.

I think I might use him to install 4:10s, possibly. I'll have to consider my skill level and do some research, but it might be a job I am capable of. The only other ideas I have for Corey are porting my top end. My problem is I can afford about one fun thing for the car each year. Last year I got the cutback, so this exhaust system is sort of a double whammy. I could have gone cheaper I guess, but I think the SW headers, 3" B&B w/ Xpipe is going to be great in the long run. It will sound good now and make all the power I could need later on.

[USAFPILOT]

It would be a good time to replace you O2 sensors with Bosch from Autozone. The leads are a little longer than stock and will work without needing a wire extension kit (which I found to be waaay to long).

That's not a bad idea at all.

[Paul Workman]

Your dipstick bracket will mail today. And, I have an extra, if anyone needs one.

P.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Your dipstick bracket will mail today. And, I have an extra, if anyone needs one.

P.


Paul, will I need your type dipstick bracket for OBX's??? I'm starting out with OBX's just to save a little money during a large project. Maybe some Jeal copies later.

[pantera1683]

Yeah they said they are going to have the EGR tube and they added the air system for me for a little more $$$, wallet hurting.

Dude, you don't need or even want the AIR system in Houston. I have the same exhaust setup you do, the SW headers were a bolt on fit and it sounds amazing. I dumped the AIR crap when I switched and haven't looked back. They just use a dyno to sniff you. You will need your EGR hooked up and you may have a hard time passing without running some alcohol through your tank. It would make life a lot simpler for you if you could run your car through emissions before you installed your headers.

Also, I've found the EGR hose to be a PITA. The kit comes with a high temp silicone hose and mine usually gets hard and brittle after a few months so I had Marc remove my EGR through a chip. I reinstall the stock chip and do a few high rpm runs with a couple quarts of denatured alcohol in the tank before I go through the sniffer. So far so good, sniffs like a Prius...lol!

[pantera1683]

I installed my headers at home by myself and they weren't that difficult. It took me the better part of a weekend, taking my time and going rather slowly. Removing the stock manifolds and heat shields is a true exercise in patience and dexterity. One tool that made the job a lot easier was a stubby 10mm multi-angle ratcheting box end wrench. I picked it up from Harbor Freight in a set. I'm pretty sure the size is 10mm but I could be wrong.

[Paul Workman]

Paul, will I need your type dipstick bracket for OBX's??? I'm starting out with OBX's just to save a little money during a large project. Maybe some Jeal copies later.

It's yours. I have lots of material to make more, if someone has to have one.

I have your email addy, but not sure if I have your mailing address.

PM me with that too, and I'll send it off.

P.

[USAFPILOT]

They are here! I didn't even know they shipped. Removing the old stuff now.

[USAFPILOT]

So I have removed the cutback and am working on trying to get the manifolds and cats off. The cat bolts are basically welded on and I broke of one bolt head so far so they aren't budging very easily. The heat shields need to come off so I can get access to the header bolts. I need some ideas on how to get them out. I have the bolts out of the heat shields on the drivers side, but cannot wiggle it out.

[Pete]

So I have removed the cutback and am working on trying to get the manifolds and cats off. The cat bolts are basically welded on and I broke of one bolt head so far so they aren't budging very easily. The heat shields need to come off so I can get access to the header bolts. I need some ideas on how to get them out. I have the bolts out of the heat shields on the drivers side, but cannot wiggle it out.

Just move it out of the way just enough to get to the screws.
Pete

[sammy]

get yourself some gloves and manhandle them out of the way .those heatshields are very sharp believe me i know after doing 3 sets of header installs

[USAFPILOT]

yeah I have some gloves...it just binds up on the front side of the engine between the steering shaft and the manifold. I guess I will try to get to the manifold bolts, but I don't think that can be done with the heat shield on there.

[Pete]

Take motor mount bolts out lift motor will give you more room.

Pete

[USAFPILOT]

i don't have any ability to lift the motor or it would certainly be an option...I wrestled out the heat shield and got all the header bolts out...it is now hanging by the O2 sensor...haha...i propped it up with a jack stand. How does the O2 sensor come out?

Also, should I use exhaust gaskets or the squeeze stuff from SW that they recommend when I install?

[ScottZ95ZR1]

How does the O2 sensor come out?

Also, should I use exhaust gaskets or the squeeze stuff from SW that they recommend when I install?

I would just disconnect the connector and remove the sensor on the bench. You should use new exhaust gaskets.

[USAFPILOT]

Who has the gaskets?

Also, how much of the heat shielding goes back up? So far I have had to remove it all.

[XfireZ51]

Who has the gaskets?

Also, how much of the heat shielding goes back up? So far I have had to remove it all.

Ceramic coated headers don't need no stinking heat shielding!

[USAFPILOT]

yeah but mine won't be

[XfireZ51]

IMHO they need to be

[USAFPILOT]

I'm not sure where in Houston to take them...or what it would cost. My budget is getting a little thin. StainlessWorks claims theirs don't need to be due to the type of steel they use.

[USAFPILOT]

stuck again...how am I supposed to remove the EGR tub from the manifold? Stainless Works instructions mention to take care of the V clamp...but I don't know what that is.

[sammy]

yeah but mine won't be no biggie .i dont have coated headers on either of my cars and haven't had a problem in 8 years . you might just want to watch how you route the o2 sensor wires . the o2 sensor unscrews .i used a flair wrench .they do make a special socket to take them out . you can score one of those if you like at your nearest auto parts store

[USAFPILOT]

well after I repaired the damaged knock sensor plug and figured out how to get to all the bolts and remove the v clamp from the egg tube the old manifold are OFF!!! Whoo Hooo. Enough for this weekend. I will now order some gaskets rather than get a huge mess going with the rtv and see about a new V clamp...however mine is straight...I will just need a tool to squeeze it back on.

[pantera1683]

Did you decide to keep the AIR crap?

[USAFPILOT]

Did you decide to keep the AIR crap?

yeah...i think it is more of a pita than it is worth. but once I get it all back on I hope to not have to mess with it again. The headers look really nice even with the air system.

[sammy]

you are going to love the way it will make power in the upper ranges compared to the stk manifolds.no more cork.lol

[USAFPILOT]

Keeping the AIR is certainly a bad decision at this point. The AIR tubes SW puts on them look great at first until you try to get the air system back on the car. The pipe that connects to the bottom of the car on the passenger side of the oil pan that routes up and over the exhaust manifold to the header air tubes basically will not go on. I have leaned on it trying to bend the dang thing and succeeded. It is on for now but only barely into the rubber fittings, enough for the clamp. I can't get the rubber T square at the top so it is being stretched and this pipe rests on the headers. I have a feeling it will make a terrible rattle once the engine is started.

Is there a flex tube of sorts I could go buy that could be cut down and shaped to fit better. It would have to be made from aluminum. Other than that, is there some kind of material I could wrap it with to prevent the noise I think I am about to get?

I have also been able to get every bolt one except for one, and it is because the flange hole does not line up wit the hole in the head. I have no idea why since 14 other bolts went in easily.

The guide pins look like they screw in, is this true? Could I remove them and insert bolts?

[sammy]

its really not mandatory to have all the bolts in when you put headers on . there was a bolt on each side of my stainless works i could not get in for the same reason. and mine havent leaked in 3 years. too bad the stainless works guys didnt care more about the product they put out . i talked with corey last week and he is gearing up to have headers done and on hand in the near future for those that want a good quality header

[USAFPILOT]

The good news is the SW long tube headers with cats bolt right up to the B&B Xpipe cutback with no modification.

I am a little disappointed the SW mid pipes leaving the cats for the X-Pipe did not have the tabs on them that anchor to those springs underneath like B&B and Corsa put on there for us. I guess I can have them cut off the B&B pipes and welded on to the SW pipes, maybe.

[Paul Workman]

Who has the gaskets?

Also, how much of the heat shielding goes back up? So far I have had to remove it all.

Mine aren't coated either, my friend. They're buried anyway on a ZR-1, so the esthetic advantage is moot. And, coated or not, they get very hot! (read: I wouldn't disregard taking precautions to protect wires, etc. in close proximity, regardless if they're coated or not.)

There is a shield that snuggles up to the frame on either side. I ran my O2 wires behind them, through some 3/8" convoluted wire harness tubing. I bought some anchors for said tubing and mounted them to keep the tubing from slipping out (drilled some small holes in the shields - the anchors snap right in place)

For stuff that couldn't be routed under the shields, I used some heat shield tape from a local speed shop to protect the clutch lines, etc. It is a flexible tape with a foil exterior. It has a Velcro strip along the inside edge so you can wrap it around stuff and then seal the edges with the Velcro. (I check it every time I'm under there to change oil or whatever. So far it is working as advertised.)

P.

[XfireZ51]

If done correctly, the coating should be applied both inside and outside of the headers. And the purpose is to retain as much heat in the exhaust as possible
maintaining velocity. Keeping the engine bay cooler is another benefit but not the primary purpose.

[pantera1683]

Living in Texas, you will find the headers, even coated, will provide a tremendous amount of heat to the engine compartment especially in the summer. My solution was to cover the headers with a set of thermal blankets. They worked so well that I bought a set for my Allante.

Here is the set I used: http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/14003/10002/-1

[USAFPILOT]

blanket thing looks good.

[Paul Workman]

If done correctly, the coating should be applied both inside and outside of the headers. And the purpose is to retain as much heat in the exhaust as possible
maintaining velocity. Keeping the engine bay cooler is another benefit but not the primary purpose.

One basic axiom of flow dynamics of gas or liquid (in a tube) is that velocity is directly proportional to pressure: the higher the pressure the higher the velocity.

Well, if velocity is the goal, then higher pressure in the header tubes ... is desirable, whether it is a function of thermal dynamics or smaller tubes...higher pressure is desirable, yes? I doan theeenk soooo!

And, then there is these questions:

If pressure (velocity) is the goal, is ceramic coating the most cost effective way to get it?
How effective really is the coating in preserving heat in exhaust gas that is traveling 2-3 feet at 100-200 mph?
Wouldn't any discussion regarding claimed virtues of ceramic coatings as a practical matter have to also include alternatives via tubing length and diameter?

Naaah...Preserving heat to effectively preserve (back) pressure - is prolly NOT a selling point; certainly not a cost effective way, at least. Looks and to some extent, heat radiation, are more practical benefits, methinks.

P.

[XfireZ51]

Paul,

"Ceramic exhaust coatings are gaining popularity with performance car tuners. We will take a look at why so many people are getting ceramic coatings applied to their exhausts.
In very general terms cooler air means greater potential engine power. We can assert this because it follows that the cooler the under bonnet temperature is the cooler the air intake charge will be. Cool air carries more oxygen so allows more fuel to burned. Even in cars where cold air is fed directly from the outside of the car into the intake you will still experience a minor power loss as heat is conducted through the intake system to the intake charge.
http://www.cartuningtips.com/wp-content/pics/exhaust2.jpg

It is also true that hot exhaust gases flow more quickly than cooler gases. Indeed a cooling of the exhaust can cause dramatic alterations to the flow characteristics of the engine.
The aim then is to trap all this heat in the exhaust at least until the pipes clear the engine bay. This has the added benefit that the catalyst gets up to temperature more quickly and start working efficiently.
Why choose ceramic then? Well ceramic is a very poor conductor of heat and is therefore a great insulator. It can be bonded to the exhaust permenantly, looks much better than a bare metal pipe and will help the exhaust to resist corrosion."

[Paul Workman]

And the purpose is to retain as much heat in the exhaust as possible
maintaining velocity. Keeping the engine bay cooler is another benefit but not the primary purpose.

Dom,

From a thermal dynamics perspective, pressure = velocity. PRESSURE is not a virtue, when it relates to optimizing the LT5 headers, IMO.

As for thermal isolation benefits as they apply to the ZR-1 :icon_scra Mebby.

They're all but hidden on the ZR-1...scratch aesthetic advantage.

Cost? It helps to own a pizza joint!! ;)

[USAFPILOT]

Lets put aside the thermal dynamics discussion for one post...

I finished the install and went for my first drive and I have to say, all of the money blood and sweat was worth the result. It is a whole new car to me.

What a difference. I had a little whiff of smoke the first time I cranked it, and am wondering if there is a leak in those dang air tubes, not sure yet. It went away though and all is fine after a long spirited drive.

Thanks for all the advice along the way. :cheers:

[USAFPILOT]

final question...how do you get the springs off the hangar where the resonator would be? Until I have the tabs welded on they are just turned upside down and wedged against the tunnel.