View Full Version : I've just about had it!
For such a nice condition, low mile for the year car (78K) It sure is a freakin headache!. She is obviously not going into full power mode, even when the check engine light is not on. It does come on sometimes for reasons I have not checked yet, but it is usually off and instead of freight training past 4500 like before it really runs out of steam like an L98. I was thinking mabe a vaccum line came loose so the secondaries were staying shut, but since I took the plenum and intakes off and put new gaskets it seems to not have any leaks as the secondary air pump pretty much never comes on anymore. I did unplug the line and the pump started going. What am I missing?
Between that and the low speed/rpm clutch disengage vibration and a new waring light poppoing up here and there I've really had it, don't be surprised to see a parting out 90 ZR1 post in the near future.
Kevin
08-24-2011, 05:54 PM
yes these car can drive you up a wall...what as that sound, what was that clunk, another ******* ENGINE LIGHT! but when it all works there's nothing better. you'll get it sorted out and if you don't, don't part it out just sell it. but if you do part it out, call me about the rear plate frame. Jerry posted a thread bout a shop near you in pa that does zr-1 and maybe you'll be well served to take the car there
Paul Workman
08-25-2011, 05:41 AM
For such a nice condition, low mile for the year car (78K) It sure is a freakin headache!. She is obviously not going into full power mode, even when the check engine light is not on. It does come on sometimes for reasons I have not checked yet, but it is usually off and instead of freight training past 4500 like before it really runs out of steam like an L98. I was thinking mabe a vaccum line came loose so the secondaries were staying shut, but since I took the plenum and intakes off and put new gaskets it seems to not have any leaks as the secondary air pump pretty much never comes on anymore. I did unplug the line and the pump started going. What am I missing?
Between that and the low speed/rpm clutch disengage vibration and a new waring light poppoing up here and there I've really had it, don't be surprised to see a parting out 90 ZR1 post in the near future.
I think most of us have been frustrated at times, but your problem doesn't sound like anything 1) that uncommon, and 2) that difficult to fix.
YOu said it yourself you haven't scanned it, and that would be the first place to start.
And, around 5000 rpm many of us experienced what you are that turned out to be that "accordion" snorkel (between the air horn and the air filter housing) collapsing. I eliminated mine from doing what yours is doing by fabricating a sleeve from aluminum that slides inside of the snorkel. Not only does it keep the airway from collapsing under vacuum, but I like to think it smooths air flow into the horn. Works like a champ!
As for the intermittent SES, scanning would help, and data logging would be even better to see what is going on while driving down the road under various conditions.
Honestly, tho... What you're experiencing is maybe just beyond your fingertips at the moment. For example: If it has the original OEM injectors, that would be something you will want to remedy too, tho what you're experiencing doesn't sound like injectors. Have you ohm'ed them out while they're hot?
If you lived in FBI country, you'd have a permagrin before this weekend was out. You need a brother of the BEAST who has BTDT to lend a hand. Stirling...Where is that??
Bottom line: I doubt it is anything serious. Once it is fixed, you'll forget all about the frustration part...cuz the best cure for that is the LT5 pulling like a freight train to 7000 (or more!);) It would be a mistake to give up due to a simple thing, yet undetected.
FWIW,
P.
Kevin
08-25-2011, 06:32 AM
he's in wazoo territory
Paul Workman
08-25-2011, 07:33 AM
he's in wazoo territory
Well, then... He's in good hands, I'd say! (Almost as good as being in FBI country!:p;))
Soon as they get back from Carlisle, the WAZOO should take this poor lad uder their wing...:cheers:
P.
tomtom72
08-25-2011, 10:32 AM
I'll offer up these two things that have been nagging my 90 recently.
My power key switch has become lazy. It's contacts are tired so they go in & out by themselves. I have to pull the switch and do Kevin's fix. It does it while I'm driving and I miss the full power light going on & off. That light is not as bright as the rest of the DIC lights on my car anyway.
This one is just my luck. I bought a piggy back chip to plug into my EPROM. The foam block on the inside of the PROM door fell off and the PROM worked loose. It didn't light the SES light either! Only me!
:cheers:
Tom
John Boothby
08-25-2011, 12:00 PM
My car had 65K on it when I bought it. It had all kinds of small nagging issues, but nothing that couldn't be fixed. I will almost bet that your issue is with the secondary vac system or injectors if you still have OEM's. My car had already been updated with RC injectors, so I have not had to mess with them. However, I did replace every piece of secondary vac system (except the resivoir and pump). Jerry's Gaskets may have everything you need to rebuild the vac syst. If not, White Racing sells the complete rebuild kit including actuators (however he is not cheap). If you bought Jerry's thicker plenum gaskets and torqued them correctly, you can probably reuse them. My recommendation is to replace the entire (less pump and resivoir, unless needed) sec vac sys and be done with it! It's not that big of a job. If you could R & R the plenum you can do this job. Go for it bro!:iroc:
Kevin
08-25-2011, 12:21 PM
My car had 65K on it when I bought it. It had all kinds of small nagging issues, but nothing that couldn't be fixed. I will almost bet that your issue is with the secondary vac system or injectors if you still have OEM's. My car had already been updated with RC injectors, so I have not had to mess with them. However, I did replace every piece of secondary vac system (except the resivoir and pump). Jerry's Gaskets may have everything you need to rebuild the vac syst. If not, White Racing sells the complete rebuild kit including actuators (however he is not cheap). If you bought Jerry's thicker plenum gaskets and torqued them correctly, you can probably reuse them. My recommendation is to replace the entire (less pump and resivoir, unless needed) sec vac sys and be done with it! It's not that big of a job. If you could R & R the plenum you can do this job. Go for it bro!:iroc:
at this point, just dump the secondaries via the chip and tie them open.
Weeeeelllllllllll the car just put another nail in it's coffin. I leave the gym today, and no start. It has a new starter so I know it ain't that. It has power but nothing luckily I was at the top of a hill so you know what I did. I get it home and still no start. I look in my factory manual which seems to be like 14,000 pages and lo and behold? pages 7C-1 - 7C-10 are missing which have the clutch safety switch in them, of course.
I've parted out a dozen C4's and notoriously have no patience, this car really does not know who it's messing with.
rhipsher
08-25-2011, 03:59 PM
Hey Dan. If it starts after the car sits a while and cools off then its the new stater gone bad. I had a new alternator do the same thing and swapped it out and it worked fine. Sorry man. I know it can be a pain in the azz sometimes.
Kevin
08-25-2011, 04:51 PM
i can snap a few pics of the missing pages for you tomorrow but until then:
Pull driver’s side hush panel.
Locate striped purple wire that goes to clutch switch.
Look at switch and note the color of wire coming back up.(Yellow??)
If you found them—the jumper will go from the Yellow to the purple stripe. You be able to jumper them right there without messing with that ##*!!$ clutch switch.
I used a 3 in #12 wire with terminals (from Radio Shack number 64-3133) on the end and unplugged the wires going to switch and plugged in the jumper wire.
Well a couple hours later and still no start, I left it alone for a bit while I helped pick up our Pumper from the shop.
I found the clutch safety pages, kinda out of order you need a manual to help desipher these FSM's
I pull off the switch, pain in the *** the actuator rod fell and now I can't find it geez, only to pull the switch down and find the harness right there, Double geez!, I jump the harness, nothing. I attach a Vats bypass switch I have laying around even though the security light does not come on when I try to start, and nothing.
Who needs an LT5?
Just pulled the cover off the starter interupt relay and it does not actuate, which I would guess is how it works, but manually actuated or not still nothing.
Starts now, don't know why.
-=Jeff=-
08-25-2011, 09:35 PM
Starts now, don't know why.
Car is cold now right?
IS the starter Brand New or newly rebuilt?
There is a thread floating around about a starter mod.. one I actually did
on the Clutch Safety switch the wire going out the firewall I cut it and placed a relay across it:
http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/relaytextA2.gif
So put Relay Terminal 85 to the wire off the Clutch switch, terminal 86 to ground. I then ran a fusible link from the +12v (terminal block by battery) to Relay terminal 30 and then 87 to the other part of the wire I cut.
This will bypass the all the switches in the circuit and get 12v to the Solenoid going through one relay. many think this is just a ZR-1 issue, but I found that it existed in my 89 (with 91) dash before I sold it but did not realize that was the issue until I sold it and had my ZR-1
I have rebuilt my starter and did the mod and have not had a issue since
rhipsher
08-25-2011, 10:02 PM
Told ya. It takes up to 3 hours for the engine to cool off enough to start. Just get a new starter. Then you can get back to the secondary problem. Once that's done you'll be glad you didn't throw in the towel.
I got a code 46 out of it.
BTW just what are the ZR1 specific parts worth anyhow? just askin'.
Kevin
08-25-2011, 10:56 PM
just sell it, don't part it out. we've lost enough cars as it is....but if you do part it out, give me a price on the rear plate frame
just sell it, don't part it out. we've lost enough cars as it is....but if you do part it out, give me a price on the rear plate frame
One less makes yours worth more.
rhipsher
08-25-2011, 11:40 PM
just sell it, don't part it out. we've lost enough cars as it is....but if you do part it out, give me a price on the rear plate frame Kevin you crack me up. Lol! Don't part it out. But if you do I'll take this that that and this. Oh and I'll take those to.:p
Kevin
08-25-2011, 11:56 PM
Kevin you crack me up. Lol! Don't part it out. But if you do I'll take this that that and this. Oh and I'll take those to.:p
just because I don't condone the behavior, doesn't mean I can't benefit from it
cvette98pacecar
08-26-2011, 01:36 AM
If you are going to part it out, I will take a few of the parts. Where is Wazoo country?
Northern Va/Md basically D.C. area.
pulled plenum off, found errent vacuum line unplugged, plugged back in, still slow. :censored:
John Boothby
08-27-2011, 01:47 AM
Do you have any codes? You could have a bad actuator; selonoid; check valve etc. At 78K it would be just as easy (other than cost) to just replace all the secondary vac or tie it off if you desire. I learned my lesson the hard way. I R&R's the plenum about 4 times before I finally just finished to job and no probs since! Do you have a manual? Just follow the diagnostic flow charts to isolate the problem.
Paul Workman
08-27-2011, 10:53 AM
pulled plenum off, found errent vacuum line unplugged, plugged back in, still slow. :censored:
Forgive me if I'm mistaken...But, I get the sense of a "bull in a china shop" from you when it comes to the description(s) of your troubleshooting. [-X Course, it might just be your writing style, as oft is the case. A patient, methodical, logical approach is the ticket; knee jerking is a counter productive approach, and leads to unnecessary frustration...and expense and time wasted, I find.
Look...These cars are 21 years old. But, you're in luck, cuz what makes the ZR-1 unique is mainly the LT5, and it is practically bullet proof, compared to SBC or BBC motors, as long as the driver doesn't run it out of oil, or some such thing. That said, I'd guess from reading Tech posts for only 4 years now, and having done my share of plenum diving, 90% of the running issues (again you're in luck) are under the plenum. If one wanted to completely R&R everything under there (causing most of the noob's problems with these beasts), it could be done in a single Saturday afternoon, taking time out to chase down a couple brewskies in the process!
90-92 injectors, if OEM (or NOS in my case:mad:) they need to be replaced...period. I prefer new (Accels) to "refurbished", but that's just me.
coils and wires (sooner or later, age and heat "gets" to the windings - 21 years is a long time for the epoxies used in the day)
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/plenumvacuumcircuitsLT5LargeLarge.jpg
Secondary throttle system[/URL], INCLUDING the solenoid switch, and making sure the actuators work and are not installed backward! (Believe it or not, some were installed at Mercury Marine 180* out. The actuator rods should be parallel to the heads, not cocked off at an angle!)
The contacts in the starter solenoid should be freshened up as needed - check them before reinstalling the coil pack. (I replaced the contact posts and refurbished the copper contact ring on the solenoid armature...took under an hour, start to finish.)
blow out the drain tube, before you reinstall the starter. Might benefit from a little brake cleaner to get the oil out.
replace the breather box gaskets and use some blue LockTite on the bolts before torquing them down.
Verify the secondary system is working - charge the vacuum reservoir with a hand pump and pin the vacuum switch with by grounding one lead and applying 12 VDC to the other and observe the actuators work uniformly...OR...do as most of the FBI gang has done and take ALL that secondary throttle stuff out and install a sans secondary chip. (Mine is one from guru Marc Haibeck; it has some special drivability features added...and I love it!)
Install support for the accordion snorkel hose - either using wire hoops (again, Marc can provide) or fab up an aluminum sleeve to fit inside the tube.
Inspect and repair HVAC vacuum lines and connections.
Replace plugs. Use the standard AC/Delco copper plugs as they're cheap enough to replace, easy enough to replace, and you can always have a fresh set in there.
.
Sometimes it is worth it to just R&R what is troublesome and be done with it - that or be prepared to go plenum diving to address these one at a time. FWIW, I happen to know about all these things from personal experience...one at a time. And, reading these posts for over 4 years, some might agree that this list forms a group of the R&R items that gets the lion's share of the issues resolved, especially on a low mile virgin motor, IMO. (I find this to be true of bolt action rifle accuracy too. I'll tear down a new rifle and go through a gauntlet of accurizing items before I fire the first shot. That way I don't have to discover (again and again) that it needs this, and then that, and, and, and, etc. When a group of routine "fixes" comes to be known and necessary, I prefer to clear that all up - need it or not at the moment - and then enjoy my toys without fear of the next thing happening!)
(I'm having issues with my photobucket stuff right now, but I'll try to post the starter circuit when that is resolved.)
Your mileage may vary, & hope you find something useful here...:cheers:
P.
Z51JEFF
08-27-2011, 12:27 PM
Who needs an LT5?
I could use that clutch switch.Seriously,Ive been looking for a used switch for a few months now.
Ok when I apply vacuum to the T-junction that splits off to the actuators, they open. When I appy vacuum to the Secondary port soloenoid the line between the resorvoir and solenoid (No.4 in the illustration above) Nothing, I cannot find anything about this part in the FSM. How do I test it to make 100% sure it's the problem as it seems expensive.
Also can I just wire the ports open full time? What would happen if I did?
rhipsher
08-29-2011, 06:46 PM
Ok when I apply vacuum to the T-junction that splits off to the actuators, they open. When I appy vacuum to the Secondary port soloenoid the line between the resorvoir and solenoid (No.4 in the illustration above) Nothing, I cannot find anything about this part in the FSM. How do I test it to make 100% sure it's the problem as it seems expensive.
Also can I just wire the ports open full time? What would happen if I did? This is what you need. http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c4-corvette-zr-1/14272-1990-1995-zr-1-secondary-port-vacuum-diagnosis.html It helped me solve my secondary problem. It covers just about everything you need to know and what to check and how to check it.:cheers:
This is what you need. http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c4-corvette-zr-1/14272-1990-1995-zr-1-secondary-port-vacuum-diagnosis.html It helped me solve my secondary problem. It covers just about everything you need to know and what to check and how to check it.:cheers:
I had already found this, it just tells you how the system works, not how to test the secondary solenoid.
Kevin
08-29-2011, 11:08 PM
Ok when I apply vacuum to the T-junction that splits off to the actuators, they open. When I appy vacuum to the Secondary port soloenoid the line between the resorvoir and solenoid (No.4 in the illustration above) Nothing, I cannot find anything about this part in the FSM. How do I test it to make 100% sure it's the problem as it seems expensive.
Also can I just wire the ports open full time? What would happen if I did?
you can, but you need to have a tune done. $150-200 for that
rhipsher
08-29-2011, 11:34 PM
I had already found this, it just tells you how the system works, not how to test the secondary solenoid. Just go ahaead and buy the solenoid. Its only $36 bucks. Its the only thing that I don't know how to check. But I'll bet that's the culprit. It was on mine. After I exhausted everything there was to check and all was working like it was supposed to that was the only thing left in the system. Knock knock UPS at my door right then. I opened that little cardboard box and installed that solenoid and shazam. All fixed. I just don't know what else to tell you man. I definitely have more patients than you. Lol! Im telling you! Get that stinking solenoid. If that doesn't fix it than take that thing to Mark Haibak.
Jagdpanzer
08-29-2011, 11:45 PM
Here is a write up from Marc H. on how to test the secondaries.
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Verifying%20Secondary%20Actuator%20Operation.pdf
Well I put a new secondary solenoid and it still falls flat when it should be altering the earths rotation. I have pulled this plenum off half a dozen times and am not gonna pull it again, everything functions under it no disconnected lines, I add vacuum to the T for the actuators and they work. No codes all cleared.
Kevin
09-01-2011, 05:55 PM
seems like you need to sell the car then
is the "full power" light on the DIC on?
John Boothby
09-01-2011, 06:50 PM
Is the car warmed up when you tested it? The coolant temp and oil temp must be warmed up before the secondary system will work. Also the rpm must be at or above 3k and the accellerator agressively applied. Is the Full Power light on? Maybe the switch is bad. Does the cruise control work? No Codes? No SES light on the DIC? MAP sensor, there are two (2) one behind the plenum and one under the ECM. That is why I asked about the cruise control. It's funny that you do not have any codes or lights.
Kevin
09-01-2011, 07:25 PM
I thought, and I could be wrong, that on the 90 the temp didn't matter and the secondaries would open up no matter what. This what changed on the 91+ cars which is why ours defaults to whatever position the key in vs having to turn the key on everytime
John Boothby
09-01-2011, 07:36 PM
I know on my 90 it does matter that the car is warmed up. When I had my secondary problem, the SES light did not come on until the engine was warmed up.
It seems weired that he says that the secondaries are not comming on, but he is not getting a SES light or codes.
Kevin
09-01-2011, 07:40 PM
I know on my 90 it does matter that the car is warmed up. When I had my secondary problem, the SES light did not come on until the engine was warmed up.
It seems weired that he says that the secondaries are not comming on, but he is not getting a SES light or codes.
i could very well be wrong, what he needs to do is call a few of the wazoo guys and get this worked out over the long weekend
John Boothby
09-01-2011, 08:08 PM
I agree. These things generally arn't that hard to fix. I am sure one of those guys can find the problem and fix it. By the way, my OM says that the oil temp and water temp must be above 68F for the secondaries to function.
i could very well be wrong, what he needs to do is call a few of the wazoo guys and get this worked out over the long weekend
No one's offered to stop by or invited me over. Only chance I had was some saturday install party and I had duty at the Firehouse that day.
I'll have to check on the cruise control, but in summer the engine temp is higher tha 68 not running it should kick right in, not to mention by the time I drive it to where I can open it up it'll be above that minimum
Yes the full power light does come on.
rhipsher
09-01-2011, 09:24 PM
Hey Dan when you accelerate hard are you going to 7k rpm or more? Because thats when my SES light would pop on and set code 61. It wouldnt come on at 4k or 5k rpms. I had to really push it.
PhillipsLT5
09-01-2011, 09:35 PM
Is he in Wazoo country?, if so who can put permagrin back on his face
Paul Workman
09-01-2011, 09:41 PM
Well I put a new secondary solenoid and it still falls flat when it should be altering the earths rotation. I have pulled this plenum off half a dozen times and am not gonna pull it again, everything functions under it no disconnected lines, I add vacuum to the T for the actuators and they work. No codes all cleared.
Sounds like a little "there-there" is called for 'bout now!;)
:icon_pai:
Ahem... Is your accordion air hose supported internally? Have you taken it to (autoZone) and had them read the codes and or data loged it while it was misbehaving???
P.
Hey Dan when you accelerate hard are you going to 7k rpm or more? Because thats when my SES light would pop on and set code 61. It wouldnt come on at 4k or 5k rpms. I had to really push it.
I've put another solenoid on it.
Sounds like a little "there-there" is called for 'bout now!;)
:icon_pai:
Ahem... Is your accordion air hose supported internally? Have you taken it to (autoZone) and had them read the codes and or data loged it while it was misbehaving???
P.
Autozone? :rolleyes: Not only do I have the stupid little grounding clip, but I also had someone show up with a Tech 1.
Kevin
09-01-2011, 10:08 PM
the accordion could be sucking down and limiting power, I remember that happening to Keith's car in bg a few years ago and we all thought it was injectors till mark haibek thought to check the accordion
the accordion could be sucking down and limiting power, I remember that happening to Keith's car in bg a few years ago and we all thought it was injectors till mark haibek thought to check the accordion
Well I'll take it off tomorrow, try it out and come back here to complain how it's still slow.
Kevin
09-01-2011, 10:39 PM
Well I'll take it off tomorrow, try it out and come back here to complain how it's still slow.
put your hand on it and give it a squeeze. if it's not supported it'll collapse in your hand
LGAFF
09-01-2011, 10:45 PM
Power Key not working?
John Boothby
09-02-2011, 12:34 AM
If you have no codes it sounds logical that the intake is collapsing. Do not run it on the road without the intake duct.
93RubyZ
09-02-2011, 05:31 AM
the accordion could be sucking down and limiting power, I remember that happening to Keith's car in bg a few years ago and we all thought it was injectors till mark haibek thought to check the accordion
I recently had my car at the ZF Doc's. Bill told me my accordion was collapsing under acceleration and robbing power. His suggestion was to get some of Marc Haibeck's hoops. Now I admit my car seemed to accelerate pretty good when I got on it, but then again I don't really have a reference.
batchman
09-02-2011, 12:56 PM
Just because I haven't seen it mentioned and it could be a factor in both the no-start and no-power:
Check all connections to the battery. Make sure the battery itself is not stripped at all.
I found my 91 to be very sensitive to this, thanks to this forum. It does not take much to impede the power flow with these side-terminal jobs and it does not take much impediment to really piss off the LT-5.
Best of luck,
- Jeff
Kevin
09-02-2011, 01:53 PM
I recently had my car at the ZF Doc's. Bill told me my accordion was collapsing under acceleration and robbing power. His suggestion was to get some of Marc Haibeck's hoops. Now I admit my car seemed to accelerate pretty good when I got on it, but then again I don't really have a reference.
I went through 3 or 5 ducts before I got my hands on one of the last ones mark coplin made. it's nice not to have to worry about it anymore
PhillipsLT5
09-02-2011, 05:26 PM
Marc's hoops will solve that problem, just try to remove it accordian and run it
See if problem still occurs
rhipsher
09-02-2011, 06:24 PM
If you want to know if its the snorkel collapsing then just take it off and take the car for a short drive. If its still a dog then you know that's not the problem.
Paul Workman
09-02-2011, 06:50 PM
If you want to know if its the snorkel collapsing then just take it off and take the car for a short drive. If its still a dog then you know that's not the problem.
Yep! Mine would bog around 5k...L98 territory. Made a sleeve and inserted it ... YEEHAW!
P.
PhillipsLT5
09-02-2011, 10:35 PM
Permagrin
If you want to know if its the snorkel collapsing then just take it off and take the car for a short drive. If its still a dog then you know that's not the problem.
Still feeding it Snausages. I Grounded that pink wire on the ecm and the actuators opened the secondaries. So the problem ain't under the plenum.
On a side note I only drove it like 2 miles but I noticed the oil temp needle never moved, no codes still but could it be a bad oil temp sender? Where is it located?
LGAFF
09-03-2011, 11:47 AM
If oil sensor is disconnected it will not open secondaries.....check connectors
LGAFF
09-03-2011, 11:51 AM
There is one very low on the P/S under the filter, etc....
LGAFF
09-03-2011, 12:14 PM
If you need help finding it let me know
LGAFF
09-03-2011, 12:32 PM
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/Picture065.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/Picture066.jpg
#10 on the diagram, next to my thumb in the pic
Yes I found a sensor under the filter, it is plugged in but only has one wire (is that right?) it is brown with a black stripe. This car used to go into full power and I have not messed with that sensor so it's not like I altered anything.
LGAFF
09-03-2011, 01:07 PM
I believe it is just one.....
PhillipsLT5
09-03-2011, 01:16 PM
My car takes a while for oil temp to move even at AZ Temps, drive it longer see what happens, mine usually will only go to second zero of 100, less than 1/4 guage, mine is a 91
Paul Workman
09-03-2011, 02:34 PM
I had a couple secondary glitches, and that was that. Parts that don't exist, seldom break, and they don't cost much!;)
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/ZR-1009.jpg
Voila!
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/ZR-1008.jpg
P.
Kevin
09-03-2011, 04:55 PM
I had a couple secondary glitches, and that was that. Parts that don't exist, seldom break, and they don't cost much!;)
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/ZR-1009.jpg
Voila!
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/ZR-1008.jpg
P.
Ill be doing this, without ditching the plates, next year
PhillipsLT5
09-03-2011, 08:49 PM
Eliminated mine also, less junk, more power = win/win
Eliminated mine also, less junk, more power = win/win
5 MILE PER GALLON LESS=lose win.
Ok I drove out to manassas 23 mile each way, and the oil temp guage never moved, at mile 22 the check engine light came on, checked code and it's 52 low voltage oil temp sender, so throwing another part at it.
PhillipsLT5
09-04-2011, 01:00 PM
I may of lost 1 MPG & Picked up 11 RWHP = win/win for me
I get 15 in city, 22 on hiway, 4.10 gears, 422 RWHP
My car is about Permagrin, not MPG
ittlfly
09-04-2011, 01:10 PM
5 MILE PER GALLON LESS=lose win.
Ok I drove out to manassas 23 mile each way, and the oil temp guage never moved, at mile 22 the check engine light came on, checked code and it's 52 low voltage oil temp sender, so throwing another part at it.
You may have just found the answer to your on going problem....
Full power is restored! Get this, only took a week and half a dozen plenum pulls (some of which I had to do twice as I forgot to hook this or that back up). I removed the oil temp harness look at it contemplating what I'm gonna have to do to get to it and what the hell kind of tool will take it off, I follow the wire to the front of the engine where it goes into another harness clip, and it's unplugged, unbelievable, that was it.
Now I gotta figure out this clutch release shudder.
Gunny
09-04-2011, 07:57 PM
Full power is restored! Get this, only took a week and half a dozen plenum pulls (some of which I had to do twice as I forgot to hook this or that back up).
See what happens when you do things yourself ... Now you're an EXPERT !!! Soon, others will be asking you to demonstrate plenum pulls.
Seriously, congrats on finding & solving the problem and while it was undoubtedly frustrating, you really have discovered one of the true joys of owning a ZR-1 and knowing that you can do things yourself.
Good luck on the clutch ... hopefully you'll get that issue fixed right away.
George
PhillipsLT5
09-04-2011, 09:57 PM
Might want to contact Bill B on clutch
http://www.zfdoc.com/
VetteMed
09-04-2011, 10:42 PM
Congrats on getting the secondary issue sorted out!
John Boothby
09-05-2011, 12:00 AM
Great! Glad to hear you got'er fixed. Usually these things are something simple, they just take patients. I still don't understand why you did not get a code when the secondaries failed to open.
Jagdpanzer
09-05-2011, 07:31 AM
I agree, time for a new clutch disk and pressure plate.
LGAFF
09-05-2011, 10:46 AM
check your hyd. first...slave and master
rhipsher
09-05-2011, 10:56 AM
Full power is restored! Get this, only took a week and half a dozen plenum pulls (some of which I had to do twice as I forgot to hook this or that back up). I removed the oil temp harness look at it contemplating what I'm gonna have to do to get to it and what the hell kind of tool will take it off, I follow the wire to the front of the engine where it goes into another harness clip, and it's unplugged, unbelievable, that was it.
Now I gotta figure out this clutch release shudder. Hey Dan it took me over a month to figure out and fix mine. 1 1/2 weeks ain't bad. I'll bet you feel much better about the car now don’t you?
Hey Dan it took me over a month to figure out and fix mine. 1 1/2 weeks ain't bad. I'll bet you feel much better about the car now don’t you?
Still for sale :D
cvette98pacecar
09-05-2011, 01:38 PM
Still for sale :D
This post is so long I forgot what car you actually have. :-D:-D
Dont sell her, you will regret the decision for the rest of your life.
cvette98pacecar
09-05-2011, 10:39 PM
Just my luck took the ZR1 out of the garage to wash it and sure enough I have a vaccum leak. disconnected the tubing from the pump that goes under the plenum and covered it with my finger and the pump shut off. Does anyone have the gasket part numbers and a link where I can get the service manual.
Z51JEFF
09-06-2011, 12:33 AM
Just my luck took the ZR1 out of the garage to wash it and sure enough I have a vaccum leak. disconnected the tubing from the pump that goes under the plenum and covered it with my finger and the pump shut off. Does anyone have the gasket part numbers and a link where I can get the service manual.
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/ for the gaskets and the only thing you need from the FSM for is the torque sequence for all the plenum bolts,I think.
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