Help, looking for emissions experts!!!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Okay, after a 6 hour round trip in stop and go traffic with no A/C (that is another issue to resolve) I failed my first emissions testing in Japan for imported vehicles. I had to fork over $2500 US or 191,000 yen and only have 3 chances with one used already. If I cannot get this corrected I will suck it up and just look at the Z in the garage under the car cover until I return back to the US in 3 to 5 years.

I am ready to give up, but will not throw in the towel just yet. I have sent an RFI to Marc H to see if there is anything he can do with chip programming, etc. but it might need more than that.

Basically I have the 500 HP package, just owner new rebuild, GVD full porting, stock exhaust manifolds with cats and air pump, B&B exhaust and SGC Stage 1 camshafts (big mistake coming over here to complicate things). The chip has been programmed by Marc, but I don't know all the technical details. Everything is new from plugs, to coils, to wires, injectors, secondaries, vacuum and all components to include PCV system and valves with oil catch can, etc. No fuel additives added.

I heard their standards are strict like CA, but I know squat about emissions or what it takes to pass to fix my issues. During my ownership since 2003, the car has never gone through emission testing since we don't have that in Hawaii.

One note is I did not have exhaust manifold so I was given a set from a 91 and the emissions technician asked me about the two bungs I have plugged after the CAT. On the cat the two O2 sensors are there, but further back there was two more bungs in the pipe and I just plugged them since my 90 had nothing to connect to it or am I missing something?

Anyway, here is the print out:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j86/hawaiizr1/Emissionstesting.jpg

Here is what they gave me as max allowed:

CO = 2.70 (my reading is 10.076, 4 times more than allowed)

HC = 0.39 (my reading is 0.564, 1.4 times allowed)

NOx = 0.48 (0.310, this is the only one that I passed)

Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts and experience. I will contact the Manager of Yokosuka Navy Base Auto Crafts Shop since he used to import vehicles or over 20 years and see if he knows a good shop to help fix this.

Craig

[tomtom72]

Do you have an original EEPROM Craig? Ya know I mean an OEM program.
I have one, AUAH that I use for NYS emission's testing...I could send it to you?
You mean on the O2 sensors that they are in the stream before the CATs, right?.....not actually screwed into the CATs.

My take would be to find some one with an exhaust gas analyzer so you can makes changes and run the test to see what's coming out of the tail pipes....I figure that they use a sniffer to do the exh gas, right?

:cheers:
Tom

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Do you have an original EEPROM Craig? Ya know I mean an OEM program.
I have one, AUAH that I use for NYS emission's testing...I could send it to you?
You mean on the O2 sensors that they are in the stream before the CATs, right?.....not actually screwed into the CATs.

My take would be to find some one with an exhaust gas analyzer so you can makes changes and run the test to see what's coming out of the tail pipes....I figure that they use a sniffer to do the exh gas, right?

:cheers:
Tom

Tom,

No, my original as retuned by Marc for higher HP after the motor was built and my spare was retuned specifically for emissions testing (that is the one I used).

Thanks for the generous offer and I'll let you know. I wish the motor were stock right about now.

I'll just say O2 in stock location as I can't remember, but the guy was trying to draw a picture to ask me about the plugs I have in the exhaust after the cats. The stock exhaust manifold/cats came off a 91 and I don't remember my old system have those bungs with some kind of valve inside. All I could do was cap them since I did not have anything on my car to put there. I can't even remember since the last time I saw my original stock exhaust was 2003 and you know at our age and no ginko biloba.

When I did a pretest at a local shop they only did at idle or reving without load. Today they had the car strapped down on rollers like dyno testing and had it running for quite some time and too several test. They showed me a graph that look like a like detector test from Obama (Carter will like this one) and it was all over the place for the CO so it looked bad. I will see what is available around the area and make sure it is tested with a load.

Thanks again Tom!

Craig

[tomtom72]

Okay Craig. On a 90's OE exh manifold/CAT combo the O2's are just before the CATs. Maybe the 91 had wide band O2 plugs for tuning?

Did you reconnect your CAGS? I do that for my NYS test with the CAGS it forces the roller test driver to do the skip shift. Keeps the rpms low I guess means less garbage out?

Is the A.I.R. system connected? I think that comes on in certain situations even after the CATs are hot, not just at start up. If I remember correctly....yea old age stinks!:o

:cheers:
Tom

Jez I forgot this! you know if you find a chassis dyno, you can simulate the roller test procedure using the sniffer.

[Paul in VA]

Hi:
First a diaclaimer... I am no expert! The below is rumor...

Obviously if you have a bad injector you won't ever pass. Need to check them.

CAGS or testing the car in 4th gear is mandatory (and the way Cheverolet intended these cars be tested).

Is E85 available in Japan? If so, a little birdie told me... get gas tank level down to 1/4 a tank. Fill to 1/2 a tank with E85 (no Hydrocarbons in Alcohol). Get car tested. Immediately after fill with GAS (to dillute the added E85).

Last suggestion is to find a friendly emissions tester...

Good Luck!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Okay Craig. On a 90's OE exh manifold/CAT combo the O2's are just before the CATs. Maybe the 91 had wide band O2 plugs for tuning?

Did you reconnect your CAGS? I do that for my NYS test with the CAGS it forces the roller test driver to do the skip shift. Keeps the rpms low I guess means less garbage out?

Is the A.I.R. system connected? I think that comes on in certain situations even after the CATs are hot, not just at start up. If I remember correctly....yea old age stinks!:o

:cheers:
Tom

Jez I forgot this! you know if you find a chassis dyno, you can simulate the roller test procedure using the sniffer.

Tom,

Thanks. The deal on the 91 exhaust appears to be factory and not add on bungs; I wish I had a picture of it. They must have put the car on a lift to notice that. I'll hope Marc replies with what that is on there if not O2s.

Nope, CAGS not connected and chip was reprogrammed so I'll check if I can just connect it back since I remember I had the plug in there before it was programmed on the chip. Thanks for mentioning that and never thought of that. I guess NYS is strict too so your info is valuable.

Yes, the a.i.r. is connected and working I noticed it upon start up and my rattling flywheel is a little loud with the cams so maybe it does come on otherwise too. I saw another post that Pete said to have it running and I could consider wiring that up, but I think these guys are too smart for that as they are very detailed and meticulous. My car was tested in an actual laboratory.........they are serious about this emissions thing.

Yes, I is necessary and I saw that the pretest shop I did had rollers but designed for FWD since majority of the car here are.

Thanks again,

Craig

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hi:
First a diaclaimer... I am no expert! The below is rumor...

Obviously if you have a bad injector you won't ever pass. Need to check them.

CAGS or testing the car in 4th gear is mandatory (and the way Cheverolet intended these cars be tested).

Is E85 available in Japan? If so, a little birdie told me... get gas tank level down to 1/4 a tank. Fill to 1/2 a tank with E85 (no Hydrocarbons in Alcohol). Get car tested. Immediately after fill with GAS (to dillute the added E85).

Last suggestion is to find a friendly emissions tester...

Good Luck!

Thanks Paul, you're no expert but you know way, way more than me living in VA. Injectors are new RC engineering (not that it does not mean bad).

Got it on the CAGS and will look into that.

I did not see E85 gas here.

The testers are very friendly as are all the staff at the facility. You know Japan is a service oriented country and it will be hard to leave here and go back to the US after being spoiled. They don't even seemed to be able to be bribed and would be more insulted than anything. But they guy was very cool and tried his best to explain and felt bad that he could not pass me. My wife was on the cell translating for me, but does not know car jargon and the guy did notice it was not a stock car so he thought that was the problem.

Thanks a lot and I need the luck or the car will go into storage which really sucks. :handshak:

Craig

[XfireZ51]

Craig,

Do you think the guy was trying to say that the O2 should be behind the cat not ahead of it?! Why would the sensor be upstream of the cat?

[tomtom72]

Craig,

Do you think the guy was trying to say that the O2 should be behind the cat not ahead of it?! Why would the sensor be upstream of the cat?

Okay, I know I'm a bit senile....but I swear that on a 90 anyway the O2 sensors are before the CATs....I'll go look after work & post back up....but I'm fairly positive they are before the CATs. On my headers the bungs for the O2 sensors are in the collectors.

As to why upstream of the CATs.....doesn't the ECM have to know O2 content unaffected by the workings of the CATs to adjust the fuel numbers?:dontknow:
:cheers:
Tom

see link: http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_12&products_id=379 click on the link, then click on the small pict to enlarge.

[XfireZ51]

Craig,

Never mind. Bit of a mental lapse on my part. DOH!

[mike100]

high nox will be due to high combustion temps/engine lugging and loading...too high initial ign timing , high compression, running lean due to vac leak etc.

The C02 should be higher- this is a by product of a proper fuel mix and a healthy Catalyst.- like 14%-15% of the total exhaust output. i'm not sure how to convert to gm/km. seems like the C0 and Hc is too high which means you are 'hella' (to borrow some bay area vernacular) rich at low speeds.

is this test on a loaded dyno or an idle test?

[mike100]

Also, see if they have 02 results (unburned extra oxygen).

the linked page below is the best resource i have ever seen and I used to do smog work back in the 90's. great cross reference. get some 02 info and it will lead you to the condition.

http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/interro/techgas.html

still seems like the medium high HC and the high CO means a rich condition. try a stock eprom with no power enrichment. The cam overlap is probably the reason the NOx is really low, but that does contribute to dirty combustion. try to get them to do the whole test at higher rpms or in 1st gear.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Also, see if they have 02 results (unburned extra oxygen).

the linked page below is the best resource i have ever seen and I used to do smog work back in the 90's. great cross reference. get some 02 info and it will lead you to the condition.

http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/interro/techgas.html

still seems like the medium high HC and the high CO means a rich condition. try a stock eprom with no power enrichment. The cam overlap is probably the reason the NOx is really low, but that does contribute to dirty combustion. try to get them to do the whole test at higher rpms or in 1st gear.

Mike,

Thank you and CA is very strict so your tips are valued. They will not discuss in detail or provide any how to fix it tips, in addition there is a huge language barrier. Thanks for the explanation of the high CO and HC and I have some studying to do on this. I will have to take up Tom on the loan of his stock chip or find one to purchase and see how that does and might be my best bet, but I do have to find somewhere to test before making the grueling 6 hour trip. The next time I go there I want to be sure I will pass. Thanks again! Craig

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

Never mind. Bit of a mental lapse on my part. DOH!

Thanks Dom. Hey, I can't even remember yesterday and I'm still wondering what the other bung is for and might have to try to get under there and post a photo. Here is a pic of a 90 and it does not have the other one I am talking about on the pipe after the converter, but the O2s can be seen:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j86/hawaiizr1/100_0652.jpg

[tomtom72]

Hey Craig, just give me a address that I can do a UPS or FEDEX to you with my OEM PROM.......no need to ask, just give me a place to send it!:thumbsup:

:cheers:
Tom

My PROM has been more places than me and my ZR-1......what's wrong with that picture!?!:sign10:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey Craig, just give me a address that I can do a UPS or FEDEX to you with my OEM PROM.......no need to ask, just give me a place to send it!:thumbsup:

:cheers:
Tom

My PROM has been more places than me and my ZR-1......what's wrong with that picture!?!:sign10:

Hey Tom,
As always, willing to give someone the shirt off your back. I'll PM you about this and greatly appreciated.

By the way, is seems my car is a porker as it weighed in at 1,600 kgs or 3,527 pounds with spare tire and tools removed. I don't know how accurate, but they sent me to a paper recycling place and I had to drive on a scale.

Craig:cheers:

[zr1don]

I recently went through the new CA emissions testing and had a heck of a time getting my 90 to pass w/aftermarket cats. As you noted you passed NOX, which most of the time is the one that causes problems. Your high CO and HC's indicate a rich mixture. I don't know if you have access to a scanner/data logger, but you need to check what the computer BLM's and INT are doing at the speed and load conditions the test is done. Acording to your test numbers the INT numbers should be showing a rich mixture and the BLM's should be moving to lean the system back to soichemetric. If your car has not been run in the load and speed conditions the test is performed in, the ECM may not have had the time to correct the mixture. Bottom line you need someone who can correct the rich mixture condition.

I think the bungs behind the CATS were added for tuning. My 90 stock exhausts, like yours, did not have them.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I recently went through the new CA emissions testing and had a heck of a time getting my 90 to pass w/aftermarket cats. As you noted you passed NOX, which most of the time is the one that causes problems. Your high CO and HC's indicate a rich mixture. I don't know if you have access to a scanner/data logger, but you need to check what the computer BLM's and INT are doing at the speed and load conditions the test is done. Acording to your test numbers the INT numbers should be showing a rich mixture and the BLM's should be moving to lean the system back to soichemetric. If your car has not been run in the load and speed conditions the test is performed in, the ECM may not have had the time to correct the mixture. Bottom line you need someone who can correct the rich mixture condition.

I think the bungs behind the CATS were added for tuning. My 90 stock exhausts, like yours, did not have them.

Hello zr1don,

Thanks so much and I appreciate the input. Yes, I have data master so I can do some recordings and check it out. I appreciate the explanation and it is like Japanese to me right now, but I'll do the research as they also have a manual from TTS to explains some of this. I don't know if I can get the details about the testing performed since I could not watch and was only brought in for the bad news part. I'm going to try to work with Marc H since he programmed the current chip.

Thanks for the explanation about the other bungs and it makes sense; maybe someone else will chime in about those that know. As soon as I came home today my service engine light came on so I'll see what codes it threw too.

Craig

[zr1don]

Most tests here in the US use 15 and 25 mph. Talk to Marc, you should be able to record a couple 5 or so minute sessions at 15 and 25 mph using your datalogger, send the files to Marc, and he should be able to make changes to correct the rich condition.

[zr1don]

I noticed in your original post you did not mention replacing the O2 sensors. When they get old or contaminated they usually send an incorrect signal that the mixture is lean causing the computer to richen the mixture. If you monitor O2 output with your Datamaster program and they are not providing a good signal, their output will show a lean mixture and the INT and BLM's will be trying to richen the mixture (incorrectly).

In your situation, where you know you have a rich mixture problem and the O2's are working correctly, they should show a rich mixture and the INT and BLM's should be working to lean the mixture back to soichemetric.

[mike100]

All I did for my calibration was retain original VE and timing values below about 2200 rpm to pass the range of operation on the dynomometer for the smog check and also for reasonable catalyst lifespan during typical street cruise speeds.

accel enrichment tends to permanently enrich the mixture at whatever correction amounts/speeds you set. I turned that off at low speeds also.

lastly, the factory cats (or oem LT1 cats also) are ten times better than universal ones for actually scrubbing the pollutants.

Mine passes with ease with the right chip and factory manifolds, but it was kind of pushing it with an off the shelf tune using enrichment. Had I not had fresh cats and stock cams, I would not be surprised to see it fail.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I noticed in your original post you did not mention replacing the O2 sensors. When they get old or contaminated they usually send an incorrect signal that the mixture is lean causing the computer to richen the mixture. If you monitor O2 output with your Datamaster program and they are not providing a good signal, their output will show a lean mixture and the INT and BLM's will be trying to richen the mixture (incorrectly).

In your situation, where you know you have a rich mixture problem and the O2's are working correctly, they should show a rich mixture and the INT and BLM's should be working to lean the mixture back to soichemetric.

zr1don,

Thanks again for your input. The O2s are somewhat new, but before the rebuild so I'll put fresh ones in as well replace the plugs again since same deal. The motor was running "dirty" before the rebuild with burning oil and lots of carbon so probably contaminated. I could not find the INT and BLM reading while monitoring the data master and will look into it further tomorrow since I took a day off to try to work on this. Also going to school after work so my time is very limited.

I'll have a coworker the speaks the language try to call the testing facility today to see if he can break the code about the speed of test, gear selection and RPMS, etc. I will make a data file and send to Marc with the chip to see what can be done for more adjustments once I get some fresh plugs, O2s. I also need to replace my TPS that has low voltage on a separate issues that is cutting the car off at idle with A/C on and also having surging/bucking with A/C on to deal with.

Thanks again!!!

Craig

[HAWAIIZR-1]

All I did for my calibration was retain original VE and timing values below about 2200 rpm to pass the range of operation on the dynomometer for the smog check and also for reasonable catalyst lifespan during typical street cruise speeds.

accel enrichment tends to permanently enrich the mixture at whatever correction amounts/speeds you set. I turned that off at low speeds also.

lastly, the factory cats (or oem LT1 cats also) are ten times better than universal ones for actually scrubbing the pollutants.

Mine passes with ease with the right chip and factory manifolds, but it was kind of pushing it with an off the shelf tune using enrichment. Had I not had fresh cats and stock cams, I would not be surprised to see it fail.

Thanks Mike. I will discuss more with Marc where to go from here about tuning. I am also checking with the original owner of the exhaust manifold/cats I was given to see what the mileage is on them but they look like takeoffs that were very low mileage compared to how my 53K set looked.

I think the huge problem I am havng is the SGC Stage 1 cams. I'm sure if I had stock cams I would have my license plates by now.

Craig:cheers:

[FU]

LPE 385 R/B-SGC Stage 1 cammed etc. with shorty cat's. And no problems at all passing NYS emission's.

[zr1don]

Craig,

The terms in Datamaster are STcounts (INT) and LTcounts(BLM). Between those two and your O2 output, O2mV in Datamaster, are what you should be looking at. There are a lot of terms and an understanding of what they are supposed to do during normal operation to be able to make sense of the outputs you are looking at, but I am sure if you talk to Marc and provide him with the data you can pass the emissions tests.

Don

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Well, thanks to everyone who has replied and tried to help. I might have been attempting an impossible task from the beginning. A coworker called the testing facility to get some details of how the testing is done. I have not translated the document yet, but it is probably the most serious testing I have heard of. There is twelve tests with every variation and in each test is done for the follwing seconds; 26, 20, 4, 9, 7, 10, 2, 6, 5, 3, 6 and 22. The person said that it will be almost impossible for my car to pass. I am still waiting to hear more about the process and I am told there are shops that might be able to fix it to pass, but it costs about 400,000 Yen equivalent to $5,300 US dollars in addition to the already spent $2500. There is no way I am spending any more to attempt to register this car here other than the tuning like O2s, plugs, sending the chip back to Marc, etc.

I might give it one more shot and after that it will be garaged for the time here and ran periodically with temp tags.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,

The terms in Datamaster are STcounts (INT) and LTcounts(BLM). Between those two and your O2 output, O2mV in Datamaster, are what you should be looking at. There are a lot of terms and an understanding of what they are supposed to do during normal operation to be able to make sense of the outputs you are looking at, but I am sure if you talk to Marc and provide him with the data you can pass the emissions tests.

Don

Thanks Don! I'll try a recording of a run with load and try to simulate what the 12 requirements are and see if it is possible to mail order tune with Marc to meet this. Ideally it would be great to find a tuner that could do this on a dyno with the sniffer and all, but that is at the cost of the $5300 so out of the question.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Yesterday I met with a local shop for a few hours and he is not able to help me, but was on the phone calling everyone that he knew and nothing yet. There was a way to pay about $5K to basically pay off someone it sounded to get me past the inspection and onto the next stage of registration. I am not willing to pay 5 grand to pass an emissions testing since I already had to pay $2500 to test so far. I have strike one and 2 more tries. 3 strikes and I'm out as I'm not going to pay another $2500 for 3 more tries.

Does anyone know any other tuners that might be able to help and one that understand California like standards as I imagine Japan is and possibly even stricter standards?

Marc stated there is nothing else he can do for my high CO and HC readings other than put my skip shift 1-4 back in (I already removed the plug and connected to the trans).

I guess the Stage 1 camshafts are the deal breaker and causing all the trouble, but I would imagine someone can tune it to pass. Ideally a local shop would be great if I can find one with dyno, sniffer and program to write as well as communicate with them my intent. I know it is difficult to get a mail order tune too, but I have 2 more tries before I give up and just store the car. I will replace plugs, O2 sensors and anything else I can think of related that might help like even PCV valves, etc. according to the link that Mike sent that had good info.

The folks here recommend replacing the factory cats with Nissan GT-R cats and another guy even said replace the exhaust system with all new components; claiming that new cats and entirely new exhaust will help to ensure a clean system. That does not sound necessary and then I might as well pay $5K with GT-R cats being $750 each not including labor.

I don't know if there is such thing as someone that can help to tune to pass emissions since most are just tuning for maximum HP. It is also difficult for anyone to help if they don't know how they are doing the testing and under what conditions. All I know is my CO is 4 times the max allowed and HC is 1 1/2 time max allowed. Skip shift 1-4 was disabled, but not sure how much difference that will make once I enable it back if nothing else is changed that new plugs and O2 sensors (which appear to be fine and somewhat new).

Thanks!!!:cheers:

[XfireZ51]

We don't even know if a totally stock, untouched LT-5 would pass!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

We don't even know if a totally stock, untouched LT-5 would pass!

You are 100% correct on that!

[pantera1683]

Look into Denatured Alcohol, that's what I ended up using to pass my emissions. I tried E85 and it wasn't enough, but the denatured alcohol made the Z seem like a Prius on the sniff test!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Look into Denatured Alcohol, that's what I ended up using to pass my emissions. I tried E85 and it wasn't enough, but the denatured alcohol made the Z seem like a Prius on the sniff test!

Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out and trying to learn what I can. At this point, I'll try anything.:cheers:

[batchman]

At this point, I'll try anything.:cheers:

Anything? Including stock cams and stock chip? Because that plus the alcohol content is about the only chance you'll have. There is no way you're going to get performance ground camshafts through a test that is probably stricter than the one the stock cams were designed to.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but as was pointed out earlier the overlap or tuning in your cams is going to make passing this test impossible without a dyno and a team of engineers. Forget technicians with random advice, other than the one who thinks compliance can be purchased. His is probably the only way but that has many risks that you should hesitate before considering especially in another country - your car will be a magnet for scrutiny and there are probably big penalties for you and the "provider" but for you it could include the car crusher.

I hate raining on your parade but maybe you get some temp time to drive around? Spend it enjoying the car, or swap in a Lexus v8 with ECM running standalone to drive the car around during your stay... I think the shop that passed our Canadian delivery ZR-1 on the Mass emissions dyno waited until another 350CID v8 came in. Everything we did was of no use. Thankfully Mass changed to OBD2 before the next cycle.

I am so sorry.
- Jeff

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Anything? Including stock cams and stock chip? Because that plus the alcohol content is about the only chance you'll have. There is no way you're going to get performance ground camshafts through a test that is probably stricter than the one the stock cams were designed to.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but as was pointed out earlier the overlap or tuning in your cams is going to make passing this test impossible without a dyno and a team of engineers. Forget technicians with random advice, other than the one who thinks compliance can be purchased. His is probably the only way but that has many risks that you should hesitate before considering especially in another country - your car will be a magnet for scrutiny and there are probably big penalties for you and the "provider" but for you it could include the car crusher.

I hate raining on your parade but maybe you get some temp time to drive around? Spend it enjoying the car, or swap in a Lexus v8 with ECM running standalone to drive the car around during your stay... I think the shop that passed our Canadian delivery ZR-1 on the Mass emissions dyno waited until another 350CID v8 came in. Everything we did was of no use. Thankfully Mass changed to OBD2 before the next cycle.

I am so sorry.
- Jeff

Well, I guess not anything like changing back to stock cams. If it were a standard SBC, sure.

I'll figure it out and if not, just store it until I return if that is the destiny. At least the car is with me and garaged.

Nothing to be sorry about. I asked for opinions and that I got.

[mike100]

It sounds like a federal compliance test like the EPA would give to be able to meet spec to import/sell rather than a field level 'smog check'. Now if they are testing to 1990 standards, I'd think you might make it with stock everything.

Sort of reminds me of Tom Cruise's character in Rainman trying to get those grey market Lambos to get certified for import.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

It sounds like a federal compliance test like the EPA would give to be able to meet spec to import/sell rather than a field level 'smog check'. Now if they are testing to 1990 standards, I'd think you might make it with stock everything.

Sort of reminds me of Tom Cruise's character in Rainman trying to get those grey market Lambos to get certified for import.

Thanks Mike. It is really difficult to understand the requirements or testing procedures as there are about 12 tests. It sounds quite severe and all I was provided is the max allowable and my readings. I did find a specialty performance shop that if you have google translator gives you an ideal of what kind of shop it is: http://www.advanceauto.jp/corvette/

So far they have requested all the specs including the camshafts, but SGC only provides some data as to protect his specific grind that he designed. I will provide them everything I can and they will let me know if they think they can tune it to pass. The will get specialist and have done it before so I just need to know how much and figure out if worth it or not. Had I known earlier, the gas test results from 1990 exact model could be used to pass the car without testing when certified by a specific shop; the gas tests are still out there and sell for about $1000 but I can't use it since I have already failed once and it would have to appear the car was imported by some other shop than myself. Sounds crazy and it is; this is not the US.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Well, finally throwing in the towel and giving up. I can't find the source of an air leak causing the passenger side to dump extra fuel to compensate for false lean condition. I'll put the headers back on then install new X-pipe and replace the B&B mufflers with Dynomax Ultra-flo and new tips. I decided not to extend on this tour so only a year and a half remaining so forget about trying to get the car registered at this point. I would continue, but even if I can get it to run as best as possible, it still might not even pass emissions with the strict rules here. Oh well, 1 year of trying is enough. Thanks for all the help and tips!

[Paul Workman]

Well, finally throwing in the towel and giving up. I can't find the source of an air leak causing the passenger side to dump extra fuel to compensate for false lean condition.

Been following along through your saga, Craig. I feel your frustration with the car and with the language/culture issues.

I guess I missed it along the way where you had Stag I cams from SCG in the car. I appologize if this has been covered, but the reversion introduced by the bigger cams will cause the idle to get "cammy", but also cause the false lean. (according to the experts).

Most recently, Dominic installed the stage I cams in his car, and had that false lean and excessive riching, which he was able to adress, far as running way too rich goes (have NO idea on emmissions, due to OBD-I exclusion in IL).

Well, that sucks - not being able to get it to pass. But, on the other hand, I can't say I'm dissappointed to hear you're coming back to the good ol USA!! WooHoo on THAT, big guy!!

Sorry for your frustration - and not being able to enjoy your passion.

P.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Been following along through your saga, Craig. I feel your frustration with the car and with the language/culture issues.

I guess I missed it along the way where you had Stag I cams from SCG in the car. I appologize if this has been covered, but the reversion introduced by the bigger cams will cause the idle to get "cammy", but also cause the false lean. (according to the experts).

Most recently, Dominic installed the stage I cams in his car, and had that false lean and excessive riching, which he was able to adress, far as running way too rich goes (have NO idea on emmissions, due to OBD-I exclusion in IL).

Well, that sucks - not being able to get it to pass. But, on the other hand, I can't say I'm dissappointed to hear you're coming back to the good ol USA!! WooHoo on THAT, big guy!!

Sorry for your frustration - and not being able to enjoy your passion.

P.

Paul,

Thanks for the thoughts and concerns. I wondered about that too with the cams, but would that not be on both sides? Only the right side is showing lean. I don't know enough to know right and wrong so only going by what I am being told. I thought about just testing anyway, but it is a 3 hour drive one way (not by distance, but by traffic) and very painful so another reason why I am pansying out. I'll see what Dom has to say as I was consulting with him and Marc H has been trying to point me in the right direction to, but I know it is hard by only email and not having the car in person.

If I can find a better job than the one I have return rights to in Hawaii (my old job) then it could be in the upper 48. We still don't any probably won't have a race track in Hawaii (other than outer islands) so that sucks big time. Thanks for your comments and wishes.

Craig :USFlag:

[LT5-Lee]

Hello Craig,

I was reading through your trials & tribulations, which BTW, made me "kind of" glad for the only time mine is still a bone stocker.

Anyway, you mentioned an SES light, chugging / surging and a vacuum leak. Is there any chance one of the two MAP sensors might be slightly unplugged, leaking or structurally cracked? It might just get enough vacuum to not throw a specific fault for it?

My '91 felt like riding a 3 legged dog once all because the 4 prong electrical plug was not seated that extra 1/8" with a good snap of the locking tab. It ran fine until I got up to pulling a little G's and went nuts. I originally squeezed the hell out of it so there was just no way it was not seated, WRONG. The green ribbed seal around the weather pack plug rolled over and blocked it.

It was a happy fix for me, maybe you too can have a .... Happy Ending..lol.

Lee

[scottfab]

Well, finally throwing in the towel and giving up. I can't find the source of an air leak causing the passenger side to dump extra fuel to compensate for false lean condition. I'll put the headers back on then install new X-pipe and replace the B&B mufflers with Dynomax Ultra-flo and new tips. I decided not to extend on this tour so only a year and a half remaining so forget about trying to get the car registered at this point. I would continue, but even if I can get it to run as best as possible, it still might not even pass emissions with the strict rules here. Oh well, 1 year of trying is enough. Thanks for all the help and tips!

Sorry to hear that. I knew before you made the move (based on my 10yrs of trips to Japan) that you'd have a rough time of it. Even local cars have trouble even after 30k miles. A friend there (native) told me of his troubles with his vintage sports car. What a nightmare.

A year and a half will go quickly..... Just get her all ready for state side driving in the mean time.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hello Craig,

I was reading through your trials & tribulations, which BTW, made me "kind of" glad for the only time mine is still a bone stocker.

Anyway, you mentioned an SES light, chugging / surging and a vacuum leak. Is there any chance one of the two MAP sensors might be slightly unplugged, leaking or structurally cracked? It might just get enough vacuum to not throw a specific fault for it?

My '91 felt like riding a 3 legged dog once all because the 4 prong electrical plug was not seated that extra 1/8" with a good snap of the locking tab. It ran fine until I got up to pulling a little G's and went nuts. I originally squeezed the hell out of it so there was just no way it was not seated, WRONG. The green ribbed seal around the weather pack plug rolled over and blocked it.

It was a happy fix for me, maybe you too can have a .... Happy Ending..lol.

Lee

Hello Lee,

Thanks and yes, I think the mistake was putting in the cams and I did not know at the time I was moving to Japan. That sure did complicate things, but love it and would not want to live without them now. I can't remember specifics, but I think the light came on when I had TPS failure and resolved it. I'll check the map sensors, but I think they were good to go. The car runs very strong and no issues even at WOT so not sure what the heck is going on.

Thanks again,
Craig

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Sorry to hear that. I knew before you made the move (based on my 10yrs of trips to Japan) that you'd have a rough time of it. Even local cars have trouble even after 30k miles. A friend there (native) told me of his troubles with his vintage sports car. What a nightmare.

A year and a half will go quickly..... Just get her all ready for state side driving in the mean time.

Thanks for your thoughts! Yeah, I had no idea what I was up against even though I heard about it and so much lost in translation so I could not get good info, but now I know. If you have a car older than 1976 then no emissions testing. I wish I still had my 1968 Camaro Z/28..........I really do.

Yes, I'm just waiting to go back to Hawaii or otherwise so I can drive it when I want to. Depending on if I go to upper 48 and a state with emissions I'll deal with that then.

[carter200]

Craig,
I have a spare room and NO emissions here. In a year and 1/2 you can look back on this and laugh. I agree fully on the 68 Z-28.........:cheers:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig,
I have a spare room and NO emissions here. In a year and 1/2 you can look back on this and laugh. I agree fully on the 68 Z-28.........:cheers:

Thanks Carter. Yeah, I have to think about it because for the price of a home in Hawaii, I can buy 3 or 4 in some parts of Texas.. You were smart and kept your classic Mustang..................:cheers:

[Scrrem]

Craig, can't believe you can't get her to pass....so that means what? You just tuck your car in the garage in Japan until your tour is over?
Rich

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, can't believe you can't get her to pass....so that means what? You just tuck your car in the garage in Japan until your tour is over?
Rich

Rich,
Thanks for your thougths and concern. I don't know if I can pass or not and just based on what I am being told by the way the car is running and issues that are causing some type of air leak throwing off the O2 on the right side. I can still drive the car periodically with 3 day temp plates that are issues to repair the car as I have been doing. Questionably illegal to just use the car for joy riding or going to car shows and drag races. It identified to and from as well as what major highway being used. I'm not sure how far off I would be right now if I drove the 3 hours to test, but if not running optimal I don't stand a chance and not even sure if running what was thought to be perfect if it would pass. The first test was way off. The cams only complicate the matter and if stock cars can't or barely pass, I'm not sure what makes me think I could....but I wanted to try.

There is such a long story to all this should have and could have that I won't try to explain and all the lost in translation along the way, not being able to get a straight answer from anyone. Everytime you call the emissions place you get a different answer and all the shops with specialist have a different answer too. Just the most frustration experience of my life so decided to give up already. I'll explain more one day over a beer when we meet in Hawaii again or if I come to the D.C. area again soon. Take care and Aloha! Craig:cheers:

[WB9MCW]

Major Bummer Craig I know you worked ever so hard to beat the Murphy on this one.

Like you say the real bugger is the language because it has all the details you need if one is going to get this done. Local advantage for sure.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Major Bummer Craig I know you worked ever so hard to beat the Murphy on this one.

Like you say the real bugger is the language because it has all the details you need if one is going to get this done. Local advantage for sure.

Thanks Big B. Things sometimes happen for a reason. Even with my wife and some Japanese co-workers as well as Corvette friends I made here, I still get "Lost in Translation" and can't get the straight answers to crack the code.

Timing is everything and now (as of yesterday) I might be moving back to Hawaii in a few months with a possible promotion so that changes everything too. :cheers:

Craig