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mgbrv8
08-10-2011, 12:18 AM
What is the minimum voltage for the starter to work? After driving a while the Z wouldn't start it wouldn't even click. Someone came by and jumped me, I just had the cables on for barely a minute and she turned over. I am going to have the battery checked out tomorrow but I was just curious.

Dave

sammy
08-10-2011, 02:11 AM
12.0 volts

mgbrv8
08-10-2011, 02:33 AM
Dang I am reading 12.8 I hope the starter isnt giving out

Dave

mgbrv8
08-10-2011, 10:15 PM
I think I am having heat soak problems. what is the procedure here. Do we send these off to be rebuilt or what source to we trust to buy one from. If I change the starter I don't want to do it again. I am hearing a click under the hood when the engine is hot and the starter wont turn is that the relay or the solenoid?

Dave

Paul Workman
08-11-2011, 05:40 AM
I think I am having heat soak problems. what is the procedure here. Do we send these off to be rebuilt or what source to we trust to buy one from. If I change the starter I don't want to do it again. I am hearing a click under the hood when the engine is hot and the starter wont turn is that the relay or the solenoid?

Dave
Hmmmm..... Never heard of a heat soak problem as it relates to these particular starters. That said, the contact points and the copper ring (on mine) were pretty well toast by 40k miles.

I got a solenoid rebuild kit off of Ebay, but the plunger pin (you'll see) was a bit too short, and I didn't think the starter gear would fully engage, as result. So, R&R'ed the original disc by sanding it clean and smooth again, installed the new contact posts from the kit and aligned them for max contact with the ring. Took about an hour (not counting the plenum pull and pulling the coil pack). So far so good, 5k later.

To others lurking here, correct me if I'm wrong: it seems these 16-21 year old cars should be R&R'ed under the plenum upon purchase and then it's smooth sailing for ... for some time anyway! My list of R&R'ed items was:


Installed a sleeve inside the snorkel hose to keep it from collapsing and maybe improve air flow too?
New coils and plug wires (mice worked them over pretty good)
Secondary port throttle control circuit (well, actually I "fixed" mine forever and every...but pulling it all out when I P&P'ed the top end)
R&R'ed the starter solenoid contacts while I was in there
New plugs -
Zip tied the hoses connected to the PVC valve
Verified the MAP hose was the hard line type and not rubber (often collapses and causes all sorts of fueling mayhem. (The original piping may be hard to find, but a metal one can be fabricated with rubber sleeves at each end as couplers - will work too)
If it is a 90-92, replace the injectors with new injectors NOT NOS (new old (original) stock) (as was what happened with my Z when I bought it). I'm running the Accels now myself: seem to do the job!


Oh! Also check torque in the IH housings. If loose (several of mine were), put some blue Locktite on the threads& torque the to 19 foot# (starting in the middle& working toward the ends - a little at a time).

After that, and regular oil changes, including the trans and diff, and you should be good to go.

FWIW,

P.

GOLDCYLON
08-11-2011, 09:42 AM
Only Add Paul... Plenum gaskets just in case

mgbrv8
08-11-2011, 10:32 AM
Thank you Goldcylon, well if i am going under the plenum what else should I prepaid to attend too. I suppose that would be a good time to R&R the alternator and do a r134 conversion. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

lbszr
08-11-2011, 11:32 AM
My starter would intermittently not work. I did what Paul mentions with new contacts in the solonoid, they were $7 from a local starter/alt. rebuild shop. It's been good for 5 or 6 years. The contacts in mine were obvisouly shot, one was wore more than the other, causing the ring to contact lopsided, easy to check.

mgbrv8
08-11-2011, 11:53 AM
Has anyone done this?
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=61257&postcount=18

I dont mind hiding a solenoid somewhere

David

gbrtng
08-12-2011, 12:39 PM
What is the minimum voltage for the starter to work? After driving a while the Z wouldn't start it wouldn't even click. Someone came by and jumped me, I just had the cables on for barely a minute and she turned over. I am going to have the battery checked out tomorrow but I was just curious.

Dave
It's not a function of open circuit battery voltage, it's a function of battery
voltage under load when the starter is cranking the engine.
Have the battery load tested and report back - I think you just need a healthy battery.

tccrab
08-12-2011, 01:23 PM
Bad battery cable connection will cause grief too.

TomC
'Crabs

mgbrv8
08-12-2011, 02:53 PM
Were do I find the rebuild components for the starter? And what do I need to purchase to refresh the vacuum system, also isn't there a breather under there that I need to replace?

Dave

mgbrv8
08-23-2011, 04:21 AM
Are these the components I need to rebuild the starter?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STARTER-REPAIR-REBUILD-KIT-SOLENOID-CONTACT-SET-DENSO-/230656514260?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Submodel%3AZR-1&hash=item35b43318d4

It seems that I should replace these while I have the plenum off.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMP-STANDARD-CP1032-Vapor-Canister-/300577280142?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Submodel%3AZR-1&hash=item45fbcd508e

The Vacuum storage canister under the manifold
http://media.photobucket.com/image/Vacuum%20storage%20canister%20lt5/zr1salvage/may%25202010%2520parts/100_0208.jpg

anything else??

Dave