View Full Version : Help!
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 01:05 AM
I put the battery in and was going to start the car from a very long slumber and it wont ever tickle the starter the security light in blinking with the key in and out and everything else is working is this a VATS issue and what do I do to correct it?
Dave
Kevin
08-06-2011, 01:14 AM
battery could be bad. these cars are battery hogs, they don't run right without a fully charged battery
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 01:19 AM
Nope its a fresh battery, This is torture
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 01:26 AM
The ignition was on accessory when I put the battery in I am thinking I have set off the VATS off
Kevin
08-06-2011, 01:30 AM
you could try taking the battery out again waiting an hour or so and then trying it all over again
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 01:35 AM
My fuel pump isnt priming so I think it must be the vats
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 01:45 AM
Okay now its cranking like it had a sticky solenoid or somthing, but now the fuel pump isn't pumping. Any idea It has a full tank of gas.
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 02:02 AM
Dose a 91 Z have the Fuel pump test connector in the same place as the 90
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 02:16 AM
I think I found the connector, it is the one coming out of the main loom from the ecm right in front of the wiper motor. Now I put power to it from my test light and I didnt hear any pump sound. Do I Have bad pumps?
Dave
Kevin
08-06-2011, 02:24 AM
unless you absolutely need the car tonight, take the battery out and let the car rest overnight. if it is a vats issue every time you turn the key you're adding time to the lock out
WVZR-1
08-06-2011, 02:35 AM
unless you absolutely need the car tonight, take the battery out and let the car rest overnight. if it is a vats issue every time you turn the key you're adding time to the lock out
The "break" might also do you "good"!
If you want to do something creative tonight I'd do the CCM codes maybe. It takes very little time and you will most likely find VATS errors if there are any involved. Instructions here:
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011/01/c4-diagnostic-trouble-codes/
ittlfly
08-06-2011, 09:07 AM
did you check the fuses for the pumps?
Paul Workman
08-06-2011, 09:30 AM
I think I found the connector, it is the one coming out of the main loom from the ecm right in front of the wiper motor. Now I put power to it from my test light and I didnt hear any pump sound. Do I Have bad pumps?
Dave
Well, if you're connecting your test light in series with the pump test lead, the pumps will not run due to the high resistance imposed by the test light. The light will come on, but there isn't enough current (5+5A) to run the pumps. But, if you set your VOM to read AMPERES and connect the red lead on the pos side of the battery and the black lead to the pump test lead, you should get a reading of 10A which indicates both pumps are running...assuming you have in fact isolated the pump test lead (which sounds like you did).
I recommend too that you install a Battery Tender to the battery to keep it in top shape at all times, regardless of temperature or time between use. And, the battery will thank you as well! (My wife's battery in her 69 C3 is going on 6 years now and it still cranks her 350/350 like new!) I have found the little 800mA unit to be perfectly adequate for battery maintenance.
P.
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 10:34 AM
Okay I set my VOM to read DCA and connected the red lead on the pos side of the battery and the black lead to the pump test lead and I got zero. could I have a faulty fuel pump relay? Okay my local guys dont have bosch pumps available but the to have the equivalent in Airtex E3270 will these be okay??
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 11:21 AM
I have also remove the passenger side kick panel and looked there and on the side panel in near the hing FP1 and FP2 fuse are fine
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 11:50 AM
Okay do I need to test my relay if so any ideas
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 12:06 PM
Alright I have removed my gas door and rubber drain pan below the gas door. now what color wire do I need to run my test light to to see If I am getting power? or what color wire do I need to run power to?
Dave
lbszr
08-06-2011, 12:37 PM
Alright I have removed my gas door and rubber drain pan below the gas door. now what color wire do I need to run my test light to to see If I am getting power? or what color wire do I need to run power to?
Dave
The grey is for the primary at the tank, and the green/white is for the secondary, this is on 1990, probably the same though. If you jumper the test connector, there should be 12V at both of those wires.
I just changed the primary on mine this week, used a delphi, can get the number if you want it.
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 12:38 PM
Okay I have jump ground to the black wire going into the tank with the fuel pump four pin connector disconnected I then made positive contact with the green/white tracer wire and gray wire with my positive source. I didn't get anything out of either pump. I take it my pumps are bad? anybody have any comments??
David
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 12:41 PM
Something must be wrong here. What are the odds of both pumps being out??
Paul Workman
08-06-2011, 12:53 PM
Okay I set my VOM to read DCA and connected the red lead on the pos side of the battery and the black lead to the pump test lead and I got zero. could I have a faulty fuel pump relay? Okay my local guys dont have bosch pumps available but the to have the equivalent in Airtex E3270 will these be okay??
I replaced both of mine with the Airtex pumps & Marc Haibeck says he's used them successfully. They seem to work just fine in my car.
Note: I did have a check valve problem with one new Airtex, but was able to exchange it for one that was good (at AutoZone). I don't mean to cast dispersions on Airtex, but rather to suggest blowing air (used my mouth) on the outlet tube to see if check valve was operating before installing the pumps. Just a thought.
P.
lbszr
08-06-2011, 12:56 PM
Is there 0 resistance from the plugs ground to the sender unit base. Could of lost ground which would make both not work, I agree seems odd both pumps would fail.
If there's good ground connection can you connect you VOM red lead to the grey or grn/wht and ground the other lead to the pin in the plug at the same time your applying power from the alternate power source to verify power is getting there.
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 01:30 PM
Are these the right strainers for the pumps??
lbszr
08-06-2011, 01:40 PM
Are these the right strainers for the pumps??
It looks the same as the one I put on my primary, the area of it was close to the original. The secondary original strainer on mine is twice as big though and wraps upward. But I don't know what other choice you would have, unless the dealer still has them. But I don't think I would worry about it.
If your want to do some R@D.....install them on both and check that fuel pressure at WOT doesn't fall off.
lbszr
08-06-2011, 01:53 PM
Does yours have the flat gasket at the sender unit, or big O'rings? Mine has the flat rectangle gasket and had to get it at the dealer, $22.
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 02:02 PM
Could of lost ground which would make both not work, I agree seems odd both pumps would fail.
How would I check the ground at the pumps without having to pull the pumps. Either way it looks like I need to pull the pumps. I ran a direct ground from the battery to the black wire going into the tank I then ran a jumper to the green and then the grey. still nothing. I am going to buy the pumps and strainers right now before the parts houses close for the day. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
Paul Workman
08-06-2011, 03:04 PM
Okay I set my VOM to read DCA and connected the red lead on the pos side of the battery and the black lead to the pump test lead and I got zero. could I have a faulty fuel pump relay? Okay my local guys dont have bosch pumps available but the to have the equivalent in Airtex E3270 will these be okay??
You're way ahead of this posted question now, but for the record, the test lead is between the pump relays and the pumps; they are out of the test circuit, and it matters not if they are working or not, far as testing the pumps goes.
As for both pumps going out at the same time, that would be unusual, at the least. More likely the secondary pump failed sometime before and was never detected until the primary pump failed...would be my guess.
P.
lbszr
08-06-2011, 03:04 PM
How would I check the ground at the pumps without having to pull the pumps. Either way it looks like I need to pull the pumps. I ran a direct ground from the battery to the black wire going into the tank I then ran a jumper to the green and then the grey. still nothing. I am going to buy the pumps and strainers right now before the parts houses close for the day. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
Yea.....looks like your up to pulling the pumps, wiring will be obvious then.
This could help verify a bad pump, my pumps had 5 or 6 ohms of resistance when removed, and the bad pump was "open".
Do you see any sparks when you connect the jumper wire to run the pumps, should be a visible one....and be careful for GS
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 03:19 PM
Do you see any sparks when you connect the jumper wire to run the pumps, should be a visible one....and be careful for GS
Nope I didnt see any sparks
Dave
lbszr
08-06-2011, 03:33 PM
Nope I didnt see any sparks
Dave
Good luck, sounds close to a fix, could only be the short runs of wire in the sender, or pumps.
You might be able to reuse the sender gasket if the pump kit doesn't have one. Mine was too old though.
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 04:14 PM
Got the pumps out, man you really have too contort and twist the assembly out don't you. Well I ran power and ground directly to each pump and neither one worked I even tapped them a little.
Dave
lbszr
08-06-2011, 04:35 PM
Got the pumps out, man you really have too contort and twist the assembly out don't you. Well I ran power and ground directly to each pump and neither one worked I even tapped them a little.
Dave
Yea, I was starting to think they built the tank around the pumps, took a break, went back out and they came right out, I never was good with puzzles.
mgbrv8
08-06-2011, 11:26 PM
First off putting the pumps back in was like trying to birth a camel. But she lives!!!!!!! and yes both old pumps are deader that a door nail. Thank you guys for all of your help I am so glad we have our brotherhood.
Dave
mgbrv8
08-07-2011, 12:24 AM
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=2358535849695
This is a test I dont know if this link will work. This is the car running. It has a flowmaster exhaust and the OBX headers.
Dave
mgbrv8
08-07-2011, 11:57 AM
I don't know if everyone can see the first video so lets see it this one works? And thanks again for all the help guys.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/v5ErtJCsyiwyxNoMkVAxtQ?feat=directlink
Dave
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