Alberta_ZR1
08-02-2011, 01:06 AM
I figured I would do a quick write up on my recent no start concern with my 93. The engine would turn over but would not fire and it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor.
There were no codes during the final failure of this part and I was having the following symptoms prior to complete no start failure.
1.) The car had a hard time starting when it was hot
2.) The car quit for no reason when driving, but would re-fire after extended cranking
3.) The car finally quit and would not start again
If you run into a similar situation where the engine turns over, but does not fire, there are few things to consider before looking at the crankshaft sensor. However in my situation, when I was doing the preliminary checks, I determined that all my other systems were working correctly, and I simply had no spark.
Crankshaft Description (As noted in 1993 GM Service Manual)
The magnetic crank sensor is used to determine engine crankshaft position. The sensor is mounted inside the block near a nine slot wheel on the crankshaft. The rotation of the wheel creates a flux change in the sensor which produces a voltage signal. The ignition control module processes this signal and creates the reference pulse needed by the ECM to trigger the correct coil at the correct time.
Step1: Removed the crank sensor connector/harness from ignition control module and probed terminals A and C on the connector of the wiring harness with an ohm meter. You are looking for a reading of 800-1200ohms. I had an open circuit indication.
(Note: To access this sensor, you need to remove the MAP sensor and bracket as well as the PCV hoses from behind the intake.)
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/IMG_0823-Copy.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/IMG_1004-1.jpg
Step2: The FSM says less than 800ohms means the sensor leads have shorted together or the sensor is faulty. If you have a reading greater than 1200ohms, there there is an open sensor circuit or faulty connection at the sensor, or faulty sensor.
Step3: Since the crankshaft sensor is so inconvenient to get to, I decided that I would purchase a new one to replace it with since I would be under the car anyways. I went to Napa and picked up the sensor (Part# CSS109)
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/P7260069-1.jpg
Step4: As soon as I attempted to remove the sensor, the head broke off leaving the rest of the sensor inside the engine block. I attempted to extract the remaining piece of sensor with epoxy and a bolt, a screw, and o-rings piks. The sensor would not move, so I ended up having to drop the oil pan and punch the sensor out from the inside.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/IMG00983-20110726-2253.jpg
Step5: After replacing the sensor and buttoning everything up, the car started and all systems checked out!
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/P7260065.jpg
There were no codes during the final failure of this part and I was having the following symptoms prior to complete no start failure.
1.) The car had a hard time starting when it was hot
2.) The car quit for no reason when driving, but would re-fire after extended cranking
3.) The car finally quit and would not start again
If you run into a similar situation where the engine turns over, but does not fire, there are few things to consider before looking at the crankshaft sensor. However in my situation, when I was doing the preliminary checks, I determined that all my other systems were working correctly, and I simply had no spark.
Crankshaft Description (As noted in 1993 GM Service Manual)
The magnetic crank sensor is used to determine engine crankshaft position. The sensor is mounted inside the block near a nine slot wheel on the crankshaft. The rotation of the wheel creates a flux change in the sensor which produces a voltage signal. The ignition control module processes this signal and creates the reference pulse needed by the ECM to trigger the correct coil at the correct time.
Step1: Removed the crank sensor connector/harness from ignition control module and probed terminals A and C on the connector of the wiring harness with an ohm meter. You are looking for a reading of 800-1200ohms. I had an open circuit indication.
(Note: To access this sensor, you need to remove the MAP sensor and bracket as well as the PCV hoses from behind the intake.)
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/IMG_0823-Copy.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/IMG_1004-1.jpg
Step2: The FSM says less than 800ohms means the sensor leads have shorted together or the sensor is faulty. If you have a reading greater than 1200ohms, there there is an open sensor circuit or faulty connection at the sensor, or faulty sensor.
Step3: Since the crankshaft sensor is so inconvenient to get to, I decided that I would purchase a new one to replace it with since I would be under the car anyways. I went to Napa and picked up the sensor (Part# CSS109)
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/P7260069-1.jpg
Step4: As soon as I attempted to remove the sensor, the head broke off leaving the rest of the sensor inside the engine block. I attempted to extract the remaining piece of sensor with epoxy and a bolt, a screw, and o-rings piks. The sensor would not move, so I ended up having to drop the oil pan and punch the sensor out from the inside.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/IMG00983-20110726-2253.jpg
Step5: After replacing the sensor and buttoning everything up, the car started and all systems checked out!
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk135/tbishup/P7260065.jpg