Cam timing

[SharkPilot]

A fallen secondary screw means my engine has to be removed and the left cylinder head removed. I'm hoping I won't find more damage than can be cleaned up and smoothed over.
That means I'm going to have to set the cam timing. I have an FSM, including the LT5 suppliment along with the GM video that details the procedures. What I do not have are the tools. I have always planned to buy them but never expected to need them so soon. Is there anyone who would be willing to loan/rent their tools to me? It's a lot to ask but it would make this mini-disaster a bit easier to handle.
I would really appreciate someone's help and also any advice that anyone has for a first go at head R&R and cam timing.

Thanks,
SharkPilot

[FU]

This tool may save you some time and expense.
Just a suggestion. It has helped me in the past.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/digital-inspection-camera-67979.html

[LGAFF]

Double for the colon check too?

[bdw18_123]

Double for the colon check too?

:eek: :sign10:

[FU]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI1go72c5H8

[Bill]

Been there done that. I lost one of the screws in the #7 secondary plate. The engine does not have to come out. I pulled the left side head found the screw imbedded in the head. Removed the screw cleaned up the little burs on the piston top and head with fine emery paper. There was no damage to the cylinder walls. While it was apart I had the top end ported and powder coated and re assembled it. You will need the crank positioning tool (I borrowed one). I used drill bits to position the cams. Read the book and take you time. The biggest problem I had was breaking the head bolts loose, Impact tool didn't work. I had to use a long breaker bar and pull til I thought I was going to break something. I have put 15 - 20 K miles on the car since the repair.
Good Luck you will learn a lot.

[SharkPilot]

Bill, thanks for the encouragement. I have read about both opinions. Some say the engine must come out, others say it doesn't.
What concerns me is the tools. What did you do for the tools to set the cam timing? That's why I'm asking if somebody would be kind enough to either loan or rent a set to me.

FU2, thanks for the link to the boroscope. I may just go and get that. I borrowed a tech's from work and was able to see the screw stuck to the head.

SharkPilot :cheers:

[Bill]

If you look at figure 21 on page 6A2B-21 of the LT5 manual you will see a small hole in the top of part #2 the camshaft retainer. there is a corresponding hole in each cam, these holes are just over 1/4 inch. I don't remember exactly what size, I think either "B" or "D". The shank will just fit into these holes. With the Crankshaft locked in place with its tool (I had to borrow it) and the drill bit through the retainer into the cam, the cam is timed.
If you need help or encouragement, I check in here almost every day. PM if you like.

[SharkPilot]

With the Crankshaft locked in place with its tool (I had to borrow it) and the drill bit through the retainer into the cam, the cam is timed.
If you need help or encouragement, I check in here almost every day. PM if you like.

Once again, thank you Bill.

I have the video and FSM and the job actually looks fascinating. The problem I'm facing is the tools. I don't even know where to get them, if they are available at all. That's why I'm hoping I can borrow or rent them from somebody who has them. The pins to lock the cams seem to be pretty simple. It's the crank locking device and the chain tensioning clamps that concern me. Is it even possible to do the job without those?

On Monday evening my brother and I are going to attempt to reach into the cylinder with something (not sure what yet) and knock the screw loose from the head. Then we can fish it out with a magnet on the end of the boroscope. Needless to say we will be very cautious around items like the valves and seats and cylinder wall. Will it work? I guess we'll find out. I figure it doesn't hurt anything to try.

I happy to hear that you did yours in the car. That would sure save a lot of time.
Depending upon how all of this goes I may just take you up on your offer with a PM or two. I'm sure I will have questions once I get down in there.
Jim

[gbrtng]

Sounds like a possible solution assuming the screw is steel - you might want to check first.

[rkreigh]

Sounds like a possible solution assuming the screw is steel - you might want to check first.


at one of the gatherings Marc Haibeck talked about the cam timing procedure and although it can indeed be done with the engine in the car he felt it was actually easier and less time consuming to pull the engine.

by having it on the stand you can access everything you need and it will be much better for a first timer.

the Kent Moore tools are often in the hands of the ZR-1 guys and if you put the word out they will likely be happy to loan them to you and give more advice. Marc is a great source of info on cam timing and it's fairly well documented in the supplements and videos but those "little tricks" that make all the difference sure help

I've never done it before and although I've worked on lots of engines, I don't have any LT5 "assembly and cam timing" experience. did get to tear one down with the wazoo gang which was really cool.

good luck. sorry to hear about your misfortune. I know it's aggravating.

[SharkPilot]

Thanks for the good wishes.
I actually got some good news tonight. I picked up a new boroscope at Harbor Freight on Sunday. Tonight my brother and I gave the cylinder a very careful inspection. We could not find the screw in there anywhere. We saw evidence of it bouncing around but it looks like the screw is long gone. This 'scope is really sharp and we got a very good look at both the piston top and cylinder head/valve area. Based upon what I have read I fully expected to find it in there, punched into the head or something like that. The 'scope that I borrowed from work wasn't as sharp and a piece of carbon stuck to the top of the cylinder liner fooled me into thinking it was the screw.
So it looks like I lucked out. I won't have to worry about cam timing or whether or not to pull the engine.
I'm going to perform a leakdown test and provided the readings are good I'll put the whole thing back together and drive it. It was running okay before the plug wire went south so I think it will be fine.
Once again, thanks for the encouragement,
Jim :cheers: