power key problem

[Kevin]

It turns out my key is working with less frequency then it used to...aka I have to jiggle it from time to time for it to make contact. I checked on the "solutions" thread and it said "well just giggle it" and maybe I missed a post or two but jiggling it isn't the way I want to "fix" this. The thread I clicked on said pull the center stack but it didn't say what to do next. clean the contacts? re-crimp them?

[Paul Workman]

Well...Lemme "axe" ya... Do you ever have the switch in anything but on FULL POWER?

You can replace it with another "used but good" switch, attempt to repair the one you have. However, the issue can permanently and forever more be solved and put it in FULL POWER mode by simply hard wiring a jumper across the two wires leading to the switch.

Before crying "gerry rigger!" at my wire solution, may I say if you are running w/o secondary throttle plates, it is excellent insurance for keeping the secondary injectors from being shut down (by intermittent switch contacts) at the worst possible moment; WOT.

If you would rather have a working switch, PM me and we'll work out something.

P.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I have this on my to do list too. I'm not sure if I will bypass, DIY or send it to Marc Haibeck for $25 to service.

[FU]

Buy my white car. We don't need no steenkin' secondaries.

[-=Jeff=-]

I have taken my 1990 power key cylinder apart to 'adjust' it as mine would not stay in Full power when turned either.. Now it is fine..

easy job to do.. But I would need to take mine apart again to explain step-by-step

[Kevin]

Well...Lemme "axe" ya... Do you ever have the switch in anything but on FULL POWER?

You can replace it with another "used but good" switch, attempt to repair the one you have. However, the issue can permanently and forever more be solved and put it in FULL POWER mode by simply hard wiring a jumper across the two wires leading to the switch.

Before crying "gerry rigger!" at my wire solution, may I say if you are running w/o secondary throttle plates, it is excellent insurance for keeping the secondary injectors from being shut down (by intermittent switch contacts) at the worst possible moment; WOT.

If you would rather have a working switch, PM me and we'll work out something.

P.

there's an off setting? :eek: i had no idea

[Kevin]

Buy my white car. We don't need no steenkin' secondaries.

seems a bit of an extreme way to fix a problem on another car. but if i had the money, i'd have bought your car years ago

[Kevin]

I have this on my to do list too. I'm not sure if I will bypass, DIY or send it to Marc Haibeck for $25 to service.

Marc fixes the switches? hum gona have to poke around his site

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Marc fixes the switches? hum gona have to poke around his site

Just call or email him as it is not on his website from what I remember. He replied to an email during communication of him burning me a new ship and secondaries came up as well as my sticky switch. :cheers:

[-=Jeff=-]

Well...........:)

Aside from explaining step by step.....did you bend some contact points back into place? Did you have to use a solder gun to build up any worn areas with new solder? Could all parts be mechanically broken down (screws or bent tabs) ;)


All I did was pull the switch apart and fix the contacts. they need to be bent a bit to get the cylinder to work correctly.

As for pulling it apart, not for a while, all I am doing is replacing a couple bad speakers and fixing the ribbing on the Passenger side door panel (drivers is done) and then enjoying the car..

Next week is Bloomington Gold and I am going with the car..

[GOLDCYLON]

After getting fixed I highly suggest bypassing at the PROM this will end the problem forever

[PhillipsLT5]

Get Marc's chip, will overide switch

[Kevin]

Get Marc's chip, will overide switch

already have a chip from marc. I don't know if the 90 can use the chip to over ride the key. and even if it can, i'd rather fix the problem then just work around it

[-=Jeff=-]

already have a chip from marc. I don't know if the 90 can use the chip to over ride the key. and even if it can, i'd rather fix the problem then just work around it

I don't think you can override the 90 in the Chip.. good luck on the fix

[Kevin]

I don't think you can override the 90 in the Chip.. good luck on the fix

thanks, it seems pretty simple. I talked to a friend today who gave me some ideas on how to attack this. i'm not sure when I'm going to dig into it but it should soon. i'll try and post pictures but when i get started that's usually the last thing on my mind. I think i have a weekend of zr-1 work coming up soon. the DS lumbar adjustment doesn't work but that's easy, I need to swap out the rear calipers, but that's not all that hard either and then the power key. I'm kinda looking forward to it

[Paul Workman]

I don't think you can override the 90 in the Chip.. good luck on the fix

Either that, or because leaving the switch in FULL POWER eliminates the need for a firmware "fix", it has just never been addressed in favor or higher priorities?

The BYPASS option: More than just a "work around" for some...
Primarily if (like me) your 90 is running sans secondary throttle plates. I'm just sayin if for any reason one has the switch removed anyway, shunting it would make a lot of sense - more than a cobble;)

P.

[Kevin]

if i had the money to get my car ported, i'd have the secondaries dumped at the same time

[John Boothby]

I am the only one who drives my Z and the Power Key stays in FULL POWER.

Regarding the VATS key, mine gets dirty from time to time and won't start the car. I carry some alcohol wipes in the car and they work great for cleaning the contact on the key. Works everytime!

[Aurora40]

Did you say what year car you have? The 1990 is extremely easy to fix the switch yourself. It's completely mechanical and very simple. Take the switch out, take the sleeve/cover off of it, and you will see how it operates. You can bend the internals slightly so that they make good contact again when rotated.

There's no reason to bypass or disable the switch functionality on the '90. It is simple to fix.

[-=Jeff=-]

Did you say what year car you have? The 1990 is extremely easy to fix the switch yourself. It's completely mechanical and very simple. Take the switch out, take the sleeve/cover off of it, and you will see how it operates. You can bend the internals slightly so that they make good contact again when rotated.

There's no reason to bypass or disable the switch functionality on the '90. It is simple to fix.

Yep, that is what I did

[Kevin]

Did you say what year car you have? The 1990 is extremely easy to fix the switch yourself. It's completely mechanical and very simple. Take the switch out, take the sleeve/cover off of it, and you will see how it operates. You can bend the internals slightly so that they make good contact again when rotated.

There's no reason to bypass or disable the switch functionality on the '90. It is simple to fix.

it's a 90. from talking to my buddy that's what he told me to do, just pull it apart and bend it back....now to track down that intermittent check engine light

[jrd1990zr1]

Yep, that is what I did

Easy fix. Pull outer switch casing apart, bend the contacts slightly, reassemble and check the switch operation with an ohm meter.

Hardest part is pulling the lower console piece so you don't break any tabs on the vertical console face.

:cheers:

[Kevin]

spent the morning rebuilding the switch, off to lunch, will post pics later

[Kevin]

You can replace it with another "used but good" switch, attempt to repair the one you have. However, the issue can permanently and forever more be solved and put it in FULL POWER mode by simply hard wiring a jumper across the two wires leading to the switch.

Before crying "gerry rigger!" at my wire solution, may I say if you are running w/o secondary throttle plates, it is excellent insurance for keeping the secondary injectors from being shut down (by intermittent switch contacts) at the worst possible moment; WOT.



P.

after fixing my switch I think i'm going to do this next year when I wire open my secondaries...

[rhipsher]

Mine has a toggle switch thats mounted under the dash that turns it on or off. The previous owner had hell trying to find another one when the original switch went out so he had a mechanic rig a switch for it. Since then he found a new new gm key switch and I have it if I ever feel I need to install it. But I actually like the toggle switch. Its always in the on position. Id only do away with the secondary system if it started giving me a bunch of headaches. But it never has.