My car update

[mgbrv8]

Okay alot was done today, cleaned the rest of rear the suspension pieces and installed them, aligned the drive train and torqued down the beam plates cleaned up the exhaust. Next remove the OBX headers make one 1/16th dent to help clear the steering shaft a little more and clean the block and install new gaskets and put on exhaust and put the interior back together and we are done. anything I need to do besides change the oil before start up its been a while in the air and I don't want to do anything to hurt the engine.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

I also need to do more cleaning, there are greasy hand prints all over.

Dave

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Looks like a lot of hard work done there. Looking great. How do you like the OBX's?

[tomtom72]

:icon_thum Looking great!


I suppose if you have some time you could pre- load an oil filter while your cleaning up stuff before you get to the oil change. :o I do three every winter so they're ready for the driving season. Just a fwiw.

:cheers:
Tom

[mgbrv8]

Thanks tomtom72, what do you mean pre-load a filter if I may ask?

Dave

[carter200]

Thank you for posting something about the OBX headers......:cheers:

[mgbrv8]

I love how they fit, the only thing I am going to do is dent the primary tube that goes near the steering shaft. right now I have a 1/16th of a inch I want another to make it at least a 1/8th.

Dave


Looks like a lot of hard work done there. Looking great. How do you like the OBX's?

[tomtom72]

Dave, I pour new oil into my filters ahead of my oil changes. It takes some time to do it. I pour in some & come back to it after an hour and pour in more. The element absorbs the oil and finally I usually have to pour off the last bit as it will not absorb.

I feel at least I don't have a large volume for the pump to fill up upon start up after a change. I'm not sure that this actually does anything useful? I notice that it takes less time to get pressure up ( looking at the gauge ) when I do the first start up after changing the oil.


:sign10: I know I'm not well!:sign10:

[FU]

I love how they fit, the only thing I am going to do is dent the primary tube that goes near the steering shaft. right now I have a 1/16th of a inch I want another to make it at least a 1/8th.

Dave

Might not have to do that. On my red 90 the drivetrain wasn't mounted 100% correct. The drivetrain was slightly out of alignment. We corrected that and the header didn't need to be tweaked. This worked for us. Of coarse your situation may be different. Just posting up my experience.

[mgbrv8]

How did you correct it?

Dave


Might not have to do that. On my red 90 the drivetrain wasn't mounted 100% correct. The drivetrain was slightly out of alignment. We corrected that and the header didn't need to be tweaked. This worked for us. Of coarse your situation may be different. Just posting up my experience.

[FU]

How did you correct it?

Dave

Aligned the drivetrain.

[VetteMed]

How did you change the position of the engine? Use a hoist? Or a jack underneath?

[tccrab]

Loosen the C-Beam bolts at the transmission and use a 2x4 to lever the transmission tail.
From "The ZF Doc's" website:


ALIGN DRIVELINE COMPONENTS: Take the following measurements directly above and to the right of the Propeller shaft front yolk universal joint. To ensure proper alignment of the driveline, a clearance of 45 mm +/- 6mm (1.77 in. +/- 0.236 in.) must be maintained between the top of the support to the underbody and a clearance of 28 mm+/-6 mm (1.1 in. +/- 0.236 in.) from the right side (passenger side of vehicle) of the support to the side wall.

Good luck!

TomC
'Crabs

[VetteMed]

So, if the driver's side of the engine is too far to the LH side, causing the header tube - steering shaft clearance issue, then the trans tail would need to be levered towards the left, in an effort to rotate the engine/trans assembly? Or is my thinking flawed here?

[mgbrv8]

Okay I know I am very slow on my progress but I am finally getting time to get back to my projects, man things have been busy. Okay I have aligned the drivetrain and that resulted in a rather large shift of the motor toward the passenger side making a good 3/16s clearance of the steering shaft so no mods had to be done to the headers what so ever. I am really pleased with the build quality of these units I also like how they consider that someone would have to install it and gave good clearance for bolt installation. I am now making a set of O2 sensor extensions (is there a length I should not exceed or a optimum gauge wire I should use, I will make them equal length no matter what??). Now I am using stainless allen bolts with stainless lock washers. Should I use the factory torque or should I go a touch more due to stainless being softer and possibility of stretch?

Thats it for now
Dave

[mgbrv8]

Here are a few more pics

[mgbrv8]

I have also repaint the flow master exhaust but before I install it I need to clean all the hand prints and what ever grime is left .

[FU]

Your producing great result's :cheers: