Oil Changes for Winter

[xlr8nflorida]

I pretty much put my Z away for the winter.

I used the Mityvak http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit7201.html

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sjdiscounttools_2130_57750992

Worked like a charm and pulled exactly 9 liters of hot Mobil 1 out.

Put 9 quarts of Mobil 1 High Mileage back into the LT-5.

I'll change the Oil again in the Spring.

Do others change the oil seasonally regardless of miles on the oil?

Did the same on my 93 LT-1. It won't work on my LS1.

[bobbyhi]

I change the oil and filter regardless of the miles.....

[Nacho_ZR1]

I pretty much put my Z away for the winter.

I used the Mityvak http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit7201.html

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sjdiscounttools_2130_57750992

Worked like a charm and pulled exactly 9 liters of hot Mobil 1 out.

Put 9 quarts of Mobil 1 High Mileage back into the LT-5.

I'll change the Oil again in the Spring.

Do others change the oil seasonally regardless of miles on the oil?

Did the same on my 93 LT-1. It won't work on my LS1.

Quick question,

How do you like the Mityvac? Is it electric or operated by handpump? Is there a benefit to changing the oil this way as opposed to the old-fashioned drain plug?

The reason I ask is, my oil drain plug is impossible to remove. The head on the bolt looks like mashed potatoes. We even tried a vice grip and still no joy.

I am thinking of just buying the Mityvac so that I can pump out the oil and pour in the fresh Royal Purple that's dying to go in.

[xlr8nflorida]

I really like the mityvac. Mine is hand pump it can suck fluids out or push them in. Mityvac is great for rears, transmissions, oil changes etc. They make one you can hook up to air compressor. The hand pump works good, I have 9 quarts out in under 15 minutes. On the z it's great since filter is on top of engine. The advantage is relatively simple and clean oil changes instead of getting ramps, jacks, oil container out. When I'm done I simply pour the dirty oil into 5 quart mobil containers or sometimes I push it out using mityvak vacuum. You should get the oil hot before using the mityvak - same as on traditional oil change.

You will have naysayers who talk about sludge on pan and that it dosent get all the oil out. My oil pans are spotless and it sucks the pan relatively dry. I've checked it several times by pulling plug.

You should get that oil plug fixed. Get a replacement and have a professional get it out. If they can't have them pull pan and cut or drill out and rethread it and put new plug in.

I use it as a tool in addition toregular changes. It won't work on an ls-1. On my lt-1 I change oil prematurely and leave extended mobil filter on until next change when I put it on ramps.

I get my mobil dirt cheap so my oil sometimes goes 500-3000 miles max even though I use extended mobil which can go 15k.




How do you like the Mityvac? Is it electric or operated by handpump? Is there a benefit to changing the oil this was as opposed to the old-fashioned drain plug?

The reason I ask is, my oil drain plug is impossible to remove. The head on the bolt looks like mashed potatoes. We even tried a vice grip and still no joy.

I am thinking of just buying the Mityvac so that I can pump out the oil and pour in the fresh Royal Purple that's dying to go in.[/QUOTE]

[Nacho_ZR1]

Lol fastest reply to a thread - EVER :handshak: I am actually reading on this forum the other post where you are talking about the Mityvac. I am really starting to like it. Seems like it will take out all the oil, leave minimal mess, and no crawling underneath the car! I am also thinking about the question you raised regarding getting the oil out of the oil cooler. Rather thank taking the oil cooler apart, is it easier to just do back-to-back oil changes within a few weeks to ensure there is fresh oil everywhere?

Lastly, which unit is best: http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/715/1708/10002/-1

or

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mit7201.html


Do I need to buy any additional attachments? Did you have any issues with the Mityvac?

My credit card is ready :-)


I really like the mityvac. Mine is hand pump it can suck fluids out or push them in. Mityvac is great for rears, transmissions, oil changes etc. They make one you can hook up to air compressor. The hand pump works good, I have 9 quarts out in under 15 minutes. On the z it's great since filter is on top of engine. The advantage is relatively simple and clean oil changes instead of getting ramps, jacks, oil container out. When I'm done I simply pour the dirty oil into 5 quart mobil containers or sometimes I push it out using mityvak vacuum. You should get the oil hot before using the mityvak - same as on traditional oil change.

You will have naysayers who talk about sludge on pan and that it dosent get all the oil out. My oil pans are spotless and it sucks the pan relatively dry. I've checked it several times by pulling plug.

You should get that oil plug fixed. Get a replacement and have a professional get it out. If they can't have them pull pan and cut or drill out and rethread it and put new plug in.

I use it as a tool in addition toregular changes. It won't work on an ls-1. On my lt-1 I change oil prematurely and leave extended mobil filter on until next change when I put it on ramps.

I get my mobil dirt cheap so my oil sometimes goes 500-3000 miles max even though I use extended mobil which can go 15k.




How do you like the Mityvac? Is it electric or operated by handpump? Is there a benefit to changing the oil this was as opposed to the old-fashioned drain plug?

The reason I ask is, my oil drain plug is impossible to remove. The head on the bolt looks like mashed potatoes. We even tried a vice grip and still no joy.

I am thinking of just buying the Mityvac so that I can pump out the oil and pour in the fresh Royal Purple that's dying to go in.[/QUOTE]

[xlr8nflorida]

You might want to research royal purple some. There are some sites that are kinda negative about it. I believe hib wrote an article as well and was not impressed. I know you pay a premium for it etc.

[xlr8nflorida]

The mityvak comes with everything you need. I can't comment on the other unit as I don't own it. I think the one I have, has more features. It comes with 3 different size tubes for different dipsticks.

In regards to oil changes, I recently spoke to Marc haibeck. 1.5 quarts stay in oil cooler, 1.5 quarts stay in heads so that is 3 total. What you get out is 9 quarts. Only dump the oil cooler if the oil is contaminated which will be 3 hour job. If you change oil frequently, it's not a concern ie 2000 miles.

The oil cooler takes at least 30-45 mins to dump it's load of 1.5 quarts back into lt-5 so it gets mixed up.

If you were anal you could do back to back oil changes but not really needed. An oil change before winter and in spring is best.

If you wanted to save oil on back to back drains, Marc said you can run lt-5 engine idling with 10 quarts total which is 2 quarts shy. However, he said don't drive it 2 quarts shy.

You could then drain after 45 minutes and add in proper 9 quarts.

[xlr8nflorida]

There are 2 known issues:

Sometimes screws on top mityvak not tight upon arrival. Take screwdriver and make sure they are tight for a good vacuum.

Rubber plug in top of unit can be hard to pull out so you can pour old oil out.
I just put some olive oil on it before I put the unit away and it works like a charm.

[Nacho_ZR1]

There are 2 known issues:

Sometimes screws on top mityvak not tight upon arrival. Take screwdriver and make sure they are tight for a good vacuum.

Rubber plug in top of unit can be hard to pull out so you can pour old oil out.
I just put some olive oil on it before I put the unit away and it works like a charm.

Thank you for the fast replies and the advice! I have now ordered the Mightvac unit you mentioned! I'm looking forward to doing my oil change next week.

I will definitely read up on the Royal Purple as well.

:cheers:

[xlr8nflorida]

Thank you for the fast replies and the advice! I have now ordered the Mightvac unit you mentioned! I'm looking forward to doing my oil change next week.

I will definitely read up on the Royal Purple as well.

:cheers:


Anytime!

A few tips:

1. Examine the side of the cylinder casing, you will see its marked 1-9 liters. Note they are are on different spots on the cylinder as you go up the cylinder, they are not all on the line. I had this problem last year and I was on phone with Tom troubleshooting a vacuum issue and trying to figure out how much oil I pulled out.

2. When done properly, you will get up to the last line which is 9 liters. I have dumped some out before and tried to get more oil but you won't get it, 9 quarts is the max. So once you are done, you add your new oil. Then pull plug at top of container and using a cheap old funnel, pour it into the old Mobil 1 5 quart jugs and bring to Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone for Free Disposal.

3. Before inserting plug back into container, put some oil oil on the rubber part of the plug. If you have a hard time getting the plug out in future, use a side to side jiggle vs. trying to pull the plug straight out.

4. Before you drain oil, I run my engine for 30 minutes then let it cool down for about 10-15 minutes. You don't want the plastic dipstick tubing to get too hot. ( read directions) Also note, that sometimes during the drain, you need to slightly move the dipstick around in which it can be hot to touch. I wear latex gloves but you might want to have on a thicker mechanic set of gloves.

5. You don't want to pump the device more then 10 times, you want to get a good vacuum going and then leave it alone. Often times it looks like you have a good vacuum but you have alot of air and oil and the oil is just a thin film. You will know when you have a good vacuum because you will get a good full tube of oil filling up the container at a decent pace. When you see pace slowing, pump the handle 4 or 5 times. Just don't over pump it etc.

Good Luck!

[tomtom72]

I bought the one from Jeggs and as far as I'm concerned it works just fine.

I've had it about two yrs now and it still works just fine. It obviously doesn't work as fast as one that could be hooked up to shop air, but in your driveway it works just fine. I figure about max 1/2 an hr to get most of the oil out of an LT5. I say most because the legend scale on the container is a decal and I'm not sure how precise it is. When it's done I estimate it sucked up between 8 & 9 qts of old oil. One thing with this unit is it works best if the oil is at normal operating temp. On cold oil the container will start to collapse. To counter act the fact that it may not be getting all of the old oil out, not counting the cooler, I shortened my change intervals....just to be on the safe side.

JMHO, if I owned a home with a garage I proly wouldn't have much use for this type of tool. Stands & a good hyd jack and up she goes for winter / spring get ready maintenance protocols. I rent space in a garage which has rules against mechanical work on your vehicle so this made sense for me to buy.

:cheers:
Tom

[xlr8nflorida]

Agreed if you have to pull filter or do other work but on z since filter is on top it's nice.

On the z though I'm really liking mityvak. The first time I used it, it was a cluster **** as Tom knows but when you get the system down it's a piece of cake.

I think I can do my oil change in 15-20 mins max. I also don't like working under car when I'm alone even with floor jacks. Accidents occur and human error as well. I know it's odd but I know a guy who died. Yes, he didn't use proper technique but many times people use china jacks or floor jacks and put them under car hastily. I would like some floor ramps. Do rhinos get job done or they makeshift? I like those race ramps but they are pricey.

[Nacho_ZR1]

Agreed if you have to pull filter or do other work but on z since filter is on top it's nice.

On the z though I'm really liking mityvak. The first time I used it, it was a cluster **** as Tom knows but when you get the system down it's a piece of cake.

I think I can do my oil change in 15-20 mins max. I also don't like working under car when I'm alone even with floor jacks. Accidents occur and human error as well. I know it's odd but I know a guy who died. Yes, he didn't use proper technique but many times people use china jacks or floor jacks and put them under car hastily. I would like some floor ramps. Do rhinos get job done or they makeshift? I like those race ramps but they are pricey.

I may give you a call when the unit arrives this weekend to be sure I don't run into any issues. I agree with you regarding floor jacks. I've never been hurt, but have had a couple close calls in the past. I'm really liking the idea of just standing there and watching the oil come out into the container...Perhaps I will begin chronicling my adventures on youtube :dancing

[xlr8nflorida]

It's pretty easy. My main issue was I thought the liters went up by 1 at each "rib" since the first rib was 1 liter. However that was because of the base, the next 1 liter increment is between ribs and so on all the way on the cylinder. I therefore thought I overfilled but I did not but its sometimes hard to tell on the LT-5's dipstick as it reads funny (compared to other dipsticks)

You will see, the 9L mark at the top. That is your goal.


1 liter = 1.05668821 Quarts


so if you get to that 9L line, you need to put in 8.5 Quarts.

Give me a ring, and I'll walk you through it. They key is to get a full stream of oil in the tube as opposed to alot of air, the process will go alot quicker.

[93RubyZ]

FYI: 9 liters = 9.5 quarts

[xlr8nflorida]

FYI: 9 liters = 9.5 quarts

You can't put 9.5 in because 1.5 stay in heads and 1.5 stay in oil cooler.

You dont get exactly get to the 9l level just short and 8.5 is typically the right amount of oil. As always confirm with the dipstick.

[93RubyZ]

You can't put 9.5 in because 1.5 stay in heads and 1.5 stay in oil cooler.

You dont get exactly get to the 9l level just short and 8.5 is typically the right amount of oil. As always confirm with the dipstick.

Gotcha! Thought maybe the math was reversed as 9 quarts just happens to equal 8.5 liters. :cheers: