Update on my hi-miler Z project

[VetteMed]

After 6 months of wrenching and spending money on parts, 1991 #302 is getting close to being driveable again. For those unfamiliar, I bought this car sight unseen from the original owner in CA, with 188k miles on it, for $9700. It already had a Fluidyne radiator, and a 92+ FX3 system with Bilstein modified programming.

Since then, I've done:
All 4 hubs replaced with NOS
Oil cooler lines replaced
Rear suspension redone with Banski rod-ends
Front suspension redone with poly bushings and Moog Tierod ends
ZFDoc short shifter with lockout retained
New lube, new plugs, and new rear seal on ZF
New oil pan gasket, breather box gasket, oil filter housing gasket
New water pump
New coils, plugs, wires
FIC reconditioned Bosch injectors
93-95 Injector housings with mild cleanup of injector bosses
New fuel system o-rings, new fuel filter, new Bosch Turbine fuel pumps, new sender assembly
C5 brakes in front, with powerslot rotors, and powerslot rotors in rear
DRM Brake bias spring
Braided stainless brake lines
Jeal headers, swain tech coated
New AC compressor, condensor, evaporator, accumulator
Painted top end LGAFF-style
Floorpan repairs (careless jacking some time ago)
Interior cleaned - replaced some carpet pieces with 94+ TruVette style carpet, other stock pieces cleaned.
'96 Collector Edition sport seats
Repaired or replaced numerous electrical connectors that had become brittle and cracked
Deleted Secondary throttle blades and associated hardware
Rebuilt starter
Rebuilt alternator
Marc Haibeck PROM
A-molds
New Spicer u-joints all around
New pinion seal, and stub axle seals in rearend, plus new lube
ZFDoc Beam Plates
New shifter lower boot and bellows

There's still lots more to come, but I haven't given any updates lately... here's a couple of pics, as it sits now:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3024.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3028.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3027.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3029.jpg

[LGAFF]

Wow is all I can say....great work! Glad you kept it!

[scholtmj]

You worked your A$$ off, Andrew. Great job, almost done!

Just to be clear, you have not touched the internals of the motor? Just supporting maintenance items? I'm curious to see how long a stock LT5 will motor along!

[Kevin]

You worked your A$$ off, Andrew. Great job, almost done!

Just to be clear, you have not touched the internals of the motor? Just supporting maintenance items? I'm curious to see how long a stock LT5 will motor along!

according to tests, 250k, at least

[VetteMed]

You worked your A$$ off, Andrew. Great job, almost done!

Just to be clear, you have not touched the internals of the motor? Just supporting maintenance items? I'm curious to see how long a stock LT5 will motor along!

Thanks, Matt! The motor internals are all stock, untouched by the PO or me. Other than a timing chain guide that lost a piece off of the end, things looked pretty good in there - when I changed the oil pan gasket, I could still see the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. So we'll see how it goes :)

[VetteMed]

Super nice job......:thumbsup:

Great list of restorations :cheers:

I know about farm trucks :D

Keep us posted on this one..........In Solutions under the Heading RESTORATIONS http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=89454&post89454

Wow is all I can say....great work! Glad you kept it!

according to tests, 250k, at least


Thanks for the support, guys! Let's hope for 250k :cheers:

[GOLDCYLON]

Awesome Andrew !

[Hammer]

Cross hatch remaining at 189k is unf*&^ingbelievable. Nice job.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Really neat stuff!

[WB9MCW]

Congrats on the hours invested on the refurb -- Looking pretty choice at this point!

[HIZNHRZ]

Coming along Andrew. Looks great. Glad to see you didn't sell!

[ScottZ95ZR1]

WOW, very impressive progress Andrew. All your hard work is certainly paying off! :icon_thum

[FU]

She's looking good !

[tomcat]

Thanks for the information on updating your ZR1. I'm going to do the same to my ZR1 soon. Just drove up to Seattle Washington. Got a lot of thumbs up even from other Corvettes. They don't know that mine has 140k & rolling with no issues. =D>

Manfred E..............:fahne:
91 ZR1 #906
http://pnwzr1.net

[xlr8nflorida]

Thanks for the support, guys! Let's hope for 250k :cheers:

Got the parts - thanks :)

[A26B]

The Heart of the Beast truly is a legendary engine in more ways than one!

Very well done Andrew. Thanks for sharing the project with us.

[VetteMed]

Thanks guys! Can't wait to get those wheels back on the ground!

[Z51JEFF]

How much of a hassle was it to do the shifter?I think if I can scrounge up a lift Id like to put one of these in the car.

[VetteMed]

How much of a hassle was it to do the shifter?I think if I can scrounge up a lift Id like to put one of these in the car.

It's the third one I've done without a lift, it's doable, but there is some grunting and cursing involved. The lower bellows was dryrotted, so I had to get a new one from BillB. Also replaced the non-existent lower shift boot too. The hardest part is working with the roll pin that must be driven out, and then back in for installation. And the new lower bellows was much easier to work with than the stiff, noncompliant original.

[VetteMed]

Finally got the car off the jackstands yesterday, got the corsa exhaust bolted up (though pretty poorly rigged on the passenger side at the header collector connection). Fired right up, and idled nicely at around 1000 rpm (indicated on tach, who knows how accurate). Lots of smoke initially, due to grease burning off of the newly installed headers, but otherwise no issues. Idled long enough to get up to operating temp, thermostat open, fan running, No check engine light (yay). Brake pedal is nonexistent, so I've got to do some more bleeding apparently.

The stock boot was very bunched up and restricting movement of the ZFDoc shortened shifter. I've got a new shifter boot and console armrest cover on the way from redline goods, will take pics after install.

We're gettin' there!

[HIZNHRZ]

Great news Andrew. Sounds like you're over the hump. While there will always be things to fix you'll hopefully be able to get some enjoyment out of the car; at least be able to drive it enough to be able to remember why you bought it!

Does the passenger side collector connection leak or are you just not happy with it? Hopefully someone here has what you need to tighten it up.

[VetteMed]

Great news Andrew. Sounds like you're over the hump. While there will always be things to fix you'll hopefully be able to get some enjoyment out of the car; at least be able to drive it enough to be able to remember why you bought it!

Does the passenger side collector connection leak or are you just not happy with it? Hopefully someone here has what you need to tighten it up.

I really just need to go to an exhaust shop, as the headers were used (off of Matt's (scholtmj) '91, and the section of pipe coming off the passenger collector was not long enough to reach the slip-fit of the Corsa pipes. So I cut some spare pipe to fit... needs some mild tweaking and welding though.

I also have some B&B tips I'm going to try to have welded on, so I'm going to have a set of Corsa tips for sale if anyone is interested.

[-=Jeff=-]

Did you get the Shift knob? I forgot to tell you I sent it last week.. LOL

[VetteMed]

Did you get the Shift knob? I forgot to tell you I sent it last week.. LOL


Got it, looks great, thanks :-)

[Nacho_ZR1]

Finally got the car off the jackstands yesterday, got the corsa exhaust bolted up (though pretty poorly rigged on the passenger side at the header collector connection). Fired right up, and idled nicely at around 1000 rpm (indicated on tach, who knows how accurate). Lots of smoke initially, due to grease burning off of the newly installed headers, but otherwise no issues. Idled long enough to get up to operating temp, thermostat open, fan running, No check engine light (yay). Brake pedal is nonexistent, so I've got to do some more bleeding apparently.

The stock boot was very bunched up and restricting movement of the ZFDoc shortened shifter. I've got a new shifter boot and console armrest cover on the way from redline goods, will take pics after install.

We're gettin' there!

:dancing Congrats! Love the look of those seats! They look very comfy! Maybe you can take her to the dyno when she's up and running to see what kind of power she's making?

[VetteMed]

:dancing Congrats! Love the look of those seats! They look very comfy! Maybe you can take her to the dyno when she's up and running to see what kind of power she's making?

Thanks, I like the earlier seats too, but the herniated discs in my lower back don't like getting in and out of them :mad:. These work much better for me.

I am planning on a dyno session, as long as things seem to be running well. But I want to get a few months of driving on her first, so that I feel comfortable that nothing's likely to blow up on the rollers :p

[XfireZ51]

... Brake pedal is nonexistent, so I've got to do some more bleeding apparently.

The stock boot was very bunched up and restricting movement of the ZFDoc shortened shifter. I've got a new shifter boot and console armrest cover on the way from redline goods, will take pics after install.

We're gettin' there!

Use a Mighty Vac for the brake bleeding. Works great.

[VetteMed]

Use a Mighty Vac for the brake bleeding. Works great.

Yaknow, I have one, and just can't ever get the process to work smoothly. Seems like it's always sucking in air past the threads of the bleeder screw.

[XfireZ51]

Yaknow, I have one, and just can't ever get the process to work smoothly. Seems like it's always sucking in air past the threads of the bleeder screw.

When I did my C5 brake upgrade, I installed the one-way bleeders. Pedal stiffened quickly when the time was right and I didn't even need any Cialis. ;)

[VetteMed]

When I did my C5 brake upgrade, I installed the one-way bleeders. Pedal stiffened quickly when the time was right and I didn't even need any Cialis. ;)

Did you use speed bleeders, or the solo-bleed type? I tried the solo-bleed and had zero luck with them. I've used speed bleeders in the past but don't like the way the sealant on the threads is basically a one-time use.

[XfireZ51]

Did you use speed bleeders, or the solo-bleed type? I tried the solo-bleed and had zero luck with them. I've used speed bleeders in the past but don't like the way the sealant on the threads is basically a one-time use.

Speed Bleeders. Didn't have an issue with sealant.

[tomtom72]

Did you use speed bleeders, or the solo-bleed type? I tried the solo-bleed and had zero luck with them. I've used speed bleeders in the past but don't like the way the sealant on the threads is basically a one-time use.

Yea, 10-4 on the sealant, I had to buy extra & it's a small pia as you put it in an oven at 160* to cure it. It's a constant source of annoyance but better than stock bleeders. I was thinking of trying teflon tape but I'm not too sure about that.

Man alive that is a project that you're gonna be so proud of...it is a 100% transformation. My hat's off to you Andrew that car is sweet now, it's only going to become sweeter!


A Q for you. How hard was the Banski kit to install? Is a lift absolutely needed? TIA

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

Yea, 10-4 on the sealant, I had to buy extra & it's a small pia as you put it in an oven at 160* to cure it. It's a constant source of annoyance but better than stock bleeders. I was thinking of trying teflon tape but I'm not too sure about that.

Man alive that is a project that you're gonna be so proud of...it is a 100% transformation. My hat's off to you Andrew that car is sweet now, it's only going to become sweeter!


A Q for you. How hard was the Banski kit to install? Is a lift absolutely needed? TIA

:cheers:
Tom


That's good to know, that the sealant is available. I thought about teflon tape too, I wonder if that's acceptable.

The Banski kit definitely doesn't require a lift to install, I don't have a lift and it went together just fine, it does require some time on your back, of course...

I wish I had more pics of the car from before I messed with it, it has come a ways in the last 6 months. It's fun to compare before/after, but the pics don't really do it justice most of the time. A small sampling:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_2429.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_2405.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_2353.jpg

[pantera1683]

I did the Banski kit outside on jackstands, actually just the rear on jackstands. You will need a fairly large breaker bar to break the torque on those trailing arm bolts.

That white Z is coming along nicely:thumbsup:

[VetteMed]

Update, 1 month later:

Had the motor all buttoned up, and found that my coolant outlet tubes were leaking at the gaskets (I had assembled them without sealant, obviously that didn't work). ALso had a pinhole leak in upper radiator hose. Fixed all of that, got it all back together again, cobbled together the exhaust well enough to get to a shop for welding, and fixed a persistent oil leak at the junction of the cooler and the cooler lines.

I've been doing some interior work, got a new shift boot and console cover from redlinegoods.com, got the visors and trim back in place, little odds and ends.

Today, I fired it up, backed out of the garage so I could do some work in the sun, seemed to run fine though had a little skip at idle after a few minutes of running. Didn't think much of it since it's been sitting. However, upon attempting a hot restart about 20 minutes later, I had to crank for 3 instances of about 5 seconds each, before it caught, and even then it was sputtering badly and barely holding an idle.

Immediately, the fuel pressure regulator came to mind, since I know a hot restart failure is usually due to excess fuel in the cylinders, since I have new injectors, and the regulator was the only part of the fuel system I didn't update, naturally ol' man Murphy came knocking. I pulled the vacuum line off the regulator, and there's fuel leaking out.

At least the diagnosis is made. However, now I think I have another plenum pull to do before I can get the exhaust and alignment done.

Guess this serves me right for being cheap and not replacing the regulator when everything was apart.

I'm starting to see a pattern developing here, and I fear that it ends with bottom end problems soon after getting this thing back on the road. Trying to stay optimistic though.

[todesengel]

lot's of work, but looks like it is paying off for you. Knowledge learned the hard way is knowledge never forgotten!

[VetteMed]

Today's update:

Got new hood hinges installed, headlights with new motor bushings reinstalled on hood. Found chewed sound deadening material in passenger footwell, looks like a mouse made a cozy little bed on the top of the hush panel. 2 wires there that need to be repaired now.

[GOLDCYLON]

mouse made a cozy little bed on the top of the hush panel. 2 wires there that need to be repaired now.


Little Rat basstages :censored:

[secondchance]

A little late but great job! Feels great, don't it?
Makes me feel great, just looking at the pics-that's a lot of work.

[VetteMed]

Did some cosmetic work on the body today. Some light machine work with polishing compound to get some of the worked-in grime out of the paint, followed by a coat of Zaino polish. There's a lot of work still to be done on the paint, and the car really does need a repaint, but it cleaned up nicely enough to be presentable at least until I can afford a decent paint job.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3164.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3162.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3174.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3175.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3178.jpg


Redline Shift boot and console cover:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3172.jpg

[VetteMed]

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3166.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_3168.jpg

[ScottZ95ZR1]

Looking good Andrew! :cheers:

[4DSZR1]

Looking very nice

[HIZNHRZ]

Great job Andrew. Sure would be great to see you be able to drive the wheels off it and really have a chance to enjoy it.

Good luck.

[carter200]

You did good ;)

[Scrrem]

I also have some B&B tips I'm going to try to have welded on, so I'm going to have a set of Corsa tips for sale if anyone is interested.

Are those Corsa tips still for sale?
Rich

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Looks good!

[tomtom72]

I think it came out great. =D>


To ourselves, our own cars will always need new paint but to others not so much. Drive & enjoy her for a while before you spend money on paint....JMHO...was it a cloudy day when you took the pictures? I'm not seeing the screaming need for a repaint. I think I see what you see. The shade changes from panel to panel?. At least your rockers don't look like mine! The front part of my rockers and the front generally look like I've been hosed with rocks I've got so many chips...Yikes!

:cheers:
Tom

[Brillo1990]

Looks really nice Andrew, but other than the spot in the rear by the bumper I don't see much wrong with the paint. If I were you and there are just a few spots that need paint, white can be blended VERY easily and matched without painting the whole car. Mine is in need of the front being painted because someone neglected to remove the lovebugs (southern bugs) from the front in time and it is etched big time from their guts. I sanded it with 1500 and buffed it but there are still spots. :confused: Guess I'll do it after the wheels.

[VetteMed]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys. I'm actually surprised the car turned out as nice as it did, given how cosmetically neglected it was upon arrival.

It was cloudy when the pics were taken... there's lots of chips on the rockers, they look like they were peppered with buckshot. The front bumper cover is all spidered. There's some panel color variation here and there, the driver's door skin was replaced sometime in the 90s, and the rear bumper cover as well, I think in the late 90s (I have the documentation, but can't remember offhand).

But, yes, I want to just drive it and enjoy it for a while. Besides, I live on a dirt road now, and there's no way I'd drive it if it was freshly painted. In its current condition, It's easy to laugh off a new chip here and there.

[VetteMed]

Update: First Drive! Took the car to the exhaust shop today, and it ran perfectly! Idled well, great power, chassis feels good (needs alignment, but everything is tight). Love those Corsas, nice and quiet at cruise but wicked on acceleration.

I did get a Service Ride Control light, with lots of codes thrown, guess I have some work ahead of me in that regard. The actuators work, and the shocks are all good, so I guess I've got some electrical troubleshooting to do.

Also, the rear differential is still leaking from the pinion seal, even though I put a new seal in. I've ordered a sleeve kit and another seal to see if perhaps there's some wear of the pinion shaft causing the leak.

[ScottZ95ZR1]

Update: First Drive! Took the car to the exhaust shop today, and it ran perfectly! Idled well, great power, chassis feels good (needs alignment, but everything is tight). Love those Corsas, nice and quiet at cruise but wicked on acceleration.

I did get a Service Ride Control light, with lots of codes thrown, guess I have some work ahead of me in that regard. The actuators work, and the shocks are all good, so I guess I've got some electrical troubleshooting to do.

Also, the rear differential is still leaking from the pinion seal, even though I put a new seal in. I've ordered a sleeve kit and another seal to see if perhaps there's some wear of the pinion shaft causing the leak.

Glad you got a chance to put a grin on after all the hard work you've done on her Andrew ! :cool:

[tomtom72]

sweet deal Andrew! I'm happy for you that the car is getting to the finish line!:handshak:


When I r&r'ed my old shocks for the new ones I got the same reaction from the ride control light. It took a number of times clearing the codes in my case to get the system to calm down. I do not know why. I knew that I had the mechanical steps done correctly and the electrical connections were good. Yet for the first 20 miles or so I got every DTC in the chart!
I just kept reading them & clearing them and it stopped happening eventually. I still do not know why or if it's just that I disturbed the system. It was just strange & drove me nuts for a day or two.

On the pinion leak. Did you notice on the pinion shaft where the seal rides any pitting or rust or even a 'groove' from wear? Sometimes a crocus cloth and some WD40 can clean it up enough so the new seal has a chance to seat. If the pinion shaft is in good condition, the vent could be causing an issue if it is clogged....but unless the old fluid was like tar I doubt that vent would be at fault.

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

sweet deal Andrew! I'm happy for you that the car is getting to the finish line!:handshak:


When I r&r'ed my old shocks for the new ones I got the same reaction from the ride control light. It took a number of times clearing the codes in my case to get the system to calm down. I do not know why. I knew that I had the mechanical steps done correctly and the electrical connections were good. Yet for the first 20 miles or so I got every DTC in the chart!
I just kept reading them & clearing them and it stopped happening eventually. I still do not know why or if it's just that I disturbed the system. It was just strange & drove me nuts for a day or two.

On the pinion leak. Did you notice on the pinion shaft where the seal rides any pitting or rust or even a 'groove' from wear? Sometimes a crocus cloth and some WD40 can clean it up enough so the new seal has a chance to seat. If the pinion shaft is in good condition, the vent could be causing an issue if it is clogged....but unless the old fluid was like tar I doubt that vent would be at fault.

:cheers:
Tom

Tom, thanks for the info regarding the FX3 codes, I'm hoping that's what's going on in this case, since the system worked fine before I took it all apart.

When I had the diff apart a few months ago to replace the seal, I really didn't see any pitting or grooving or rust on the surface of the pinion shaft. However, it's possible I missed a spot, I suppose. I cleaned out the vent at that time, and it appeared to be functioning normally.

Thanks
Andrew

[tomtom72]

I'm sure there is nothing on the pinion shaft! I should have figured you did a tear down on the rear gear, Andrew! My bad.:o

I'll bet the seal may have been bad out of the box? It seems it is hard to get good quality in parts today. You cleaned out the seal bore, right? I'm just trying to be your check list.;)

Yea, on the FX3. I don't know why all the DTC's. It drove me nuts. Just bear with it because I know you know it went back together right!
:cheers:

[VetteMed]

A bad seal out of the box would be a nice explanation! I don't think I cleaned the seal bore all that well, so it's possible there's seepage from around the seal rather than through it. Good point, Tom. I'll get it taken apart again and report back :)

[ittlfly]

Andrew, The car looks great now. It's not the same car I saw when it was in Redding a few years back. It was a real disaster. :cheers:

[tomtom72]

A bad seal out of the box would be a nice explanation! I don't think I cleaned the seal bore all that well, so it's possible there's seepage from around the seal rather than through it. Good point, Tom. I'll get it taken apart again and report back :)

Is it leaking that bad? I was thinking that maybe it could take a while to become friends with the pinion shaft. I know that my car sat so much by the O.O. that I developed seeps at the stub axle seals because I drove her......but after awhile they stopped.....:o I know I should have pulled it out & torn it down right away....someday I will.:o

[VetteMed]

I bought a Timken sleeve kit from RockAuto, and installed it on the yoke. Installed a new seal in the housing, greased the splines, and the inside surface of the seal, and bolted it all back together. We'll see if it begins to leak again. I reset the SRC codes, now down to only four codes instead of 6, so I guess that's some progress. Probably going to drive it to work tomorrow.

[mike100]

This wasn't the car that was for sale on CL in Ramona last year was it? I almost called to have a look at it.

[VetteMed]

This wasn't the car that was for sale on CL in Ramona last year was it? I almost called to have a look at it.

Yep, that's the one!

[VetteMed]

The last 48 hours have been busy ones. I've ordered some parts for a stereo installation, including sound deadening materials, so I decided to strip out the interior (again). I'm also going to be installing a few more 94-96 interior bits as I finish up. Because I wanted to remove all of the original flimsy padding/deadening, I had to remove a significant portion of the dash - at which point I decided to "go for broke" and remove enough to get to the heater core, which is original. No signs of leaks, but Murphy's law would indicate that a leak would appear at the worst possible moment.

So, I pulled the heater core, and sure enough, it was seeping from a few places, obviously corroded especially at the bottom. Guess it was on borrowed time!

I'm also installing the tccrabs starter relay, and a Harlan shift light, while everything is apart. I've got some pics to follow, plus some pics to go along with tccrabs excellent threads on the "Dreaded No Start".

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3208.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3203.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3204.jpg

Shift light installed behind center vent:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3209.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3211.jpg

[-=Jeff=-]

So what type of Stereo system are you installing?

[VetteMed]

2 8" Image Dynamics subs in the rear locations
5.25" Image Dynamics carbon fiber front speakers (in the bose pods)
Arc KS125.4 amp
Alpine headunit (this one is going to remain a surprise, I'll wait until it's installed before I give any more info).

[-=Jeff=-]

2 8" Image Dynamics subs in the rear locations
5.25" Image Dynamics carbon fiber front speakers (in the bose pods)
Arc KS125.4 amp
Alpine headunit (this one is going to remain a surprise, I'll wait until it's installed before I give any more info).

Sounds good...

I am running:

eD Eu700s in the rear (might swap to the 9kv.2s I have)
front: 6.5" 4" and tweets from CDT
two: Arc KS 300.4 amps
Eclipse Headunit (I forget the model #)

[VetteMed]

Sounds good...

I am running:

eD Eu700s in the rear (might swap to the 9kv.2s I have)
front: 6.5" 4" and tweets from CDT
two: Arc KS 300.4 amps
Eclipse Headunit (I forget the model #)

I may find that I want to add a second amp, but budget constraints right now dictate that I start with only one :) We'll have to see how things sound first!

[GOLDCYLON]

2 8" Image Dynamics subs in the rear locations
5.25" Image Dynamics carbon fiber front speakers (in the bose pods)
Arc KS125.4 amp
Alpine headunit (this one is going to remain a surprise, I'll wait until it's installed before I give any more info).


Double DIN????? It better be.... and with Amber lights [-X

Andrew can you walk me through on the shift light. What did it hook into what did you set it for? Routing I can handle but I really need to see what you how you tapped into to make it work I hva been wantin gto do this mod for a long while

[GOLDCYLON]

So, I pulled the heater core, and sure enough, it was seeping from a few places, obviously corroded especially at the bottom. Guess it was on borrowed time!


Glad you pulled the Heater Core I just did mine last year. Wow that is a total tear out are you going with the dynmat or did you get one of those crazy cowbody kits over on the corvette forum?

[VetteMed]

WOW!!

Would you take some pictures of the reassembly of the dash? I have a 90' corvette dash completely taken apart but it has been a year and I may have forgotten the details of reassembly ;)

Appreciate it.....your project is looking great :thumbsup:
I have been watching as you go :cheers:

Sure, I can take pics as I go... I'm hoping it won't be more than a few days before I can start reassembling things.

Thanks for following my saga :-({|=

[VetteMed]

Double DIN????? It better be.... and with Amber lights [-X

Andrew can you walk me through on the shift light. What did it hook into what did you set it for? Routing I can handle but I really need to see what you how you tapped into to make it work I hva been wantin gto do this mod for a long while

Daryll, the shift light has 3 wires - 12V+, Ground, and tach feed. I had this same shift light in my red '91, and I tapped into the white wire that's located in the bundle with the white dead-end connector seen here:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3216.jpg

I think I set it for 6600 when I installed it in the red car.

[VetteMed]

Glad you pulled the Heater Core I just did mine last year. Wow that is a total tear out are you going with the dynmat or did you get one of those crazy cowbody kits over on the corvette forum?


I'm going with RAAMMAT and Ensolite, from Rick of RAAMAudio over on the other forum. He's got a great reputation and really knows his stuff. I had the crazycowboy kit in the red car, and I wasn't all that impressed by it. Maybe my expectations were too high, given that it's just foil-backed bubble wrap :)

[GOLDCYLON]

I'm going with RAAMMAT and Ensolite, from Rick of RAAMAudio over on the other forum. He's got a great reputation and really knows his stuff. I had the crazycowboy kit in the red car, and I wasn't all that impressed by it. Maybe my expectations were too high, given that it's just foil-backed bubble wrap :)


That what I heard as well "Bubble wrap". Pleae post up what you think of this new stuff. Ive been thinking about this when I get the carpets changed out. I still need to find a rear black carpet. I have all the front already I bought from Sgreg a while back. GC

[GOLDCYLON]

Daryll, the shift light has 3 wires - 12V+, Ground, and tach feed. I had this same shift light in my red '91, and I tapped into the white wire that's located in the bundle with the white dead-end connector seen here:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3216.jpg

I think I set it for 6600 when I installed it in the red car.

Was that connector provided with the kit? What color light did you go with?

[VetteMed]

Was that connector provided with the kit? What color light did you go with?

That connector is taped to your main wiring harness near the brake booster. I'm not sure of it's purpose, since it's a dead-end.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't remember if I ordered red or amber, it's been so long since I've seen it in use;)

[GOLDCYLON]

That connector is taped to your main wiring harness near the brake booster. I'm not sure of it's purpose, since it's a dead-end.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't remember if I ordered red or amber, it's been so long since I've seen it in use;)


LOL well its not like you have ANYTHING else on your mind Andrew. Im impressed its looking great!!!

[VetteMed]

I couldn't stand the suspense, I had to go plug the headunit in to see what it looked like when illuminated. The unit is an Alpine CDA-W925EHI. It's an asian and australian unit, I got it from Malaysia. I wanted something that looked like it belongs in the car. I like the DVD units but I don't like touchscreens. SO we'll see how this goes.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3235.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3236.jpg

[GOLDCYLON]

I couldn't stand the suspense, I had to go plug the headunit in to see what it looked like when illuminated. The unit is an Alpine CDA-W925EHI. It's an asian and australian unit, I got it from Malaysia. I wanted something that looked like it belongs in the car. I like the DVD units but I don't like touchscreens. SO we'll see how this goes.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3235.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3236.jpg


Amber double DIN you cant go wrong.

[tomtom72]

That connector that is taped to the harness is the test port for the DIS system. That is the back probe point and the place where the adapter from a TECH 1A plugs into to run ignition simulations & read system performance and check for grounded & or open circuits. Of course that software is optional & hard to find.

I would like to thank you very much for taking the time to post up the heater core r&r. :handshak:

......:pray I keep dreaming that I will never have to do this job.....:icon_stud

[GOLDCYLON]

Ordered my New two stage Raptor light in Amber. Im stealing your install suggestion Andrew lol.
This is going to be installed by the ZFDOC which I think is the best person I can think of to detrmine the shift points. I have ask him to record the shift points so I can pass them on to the community. Car is already over there while in LA for the RH tensioner upgrade.

[XfireZ51]

I bought a new connector for this and pinned the Raptor wires to it. That way I can plug and unplug the shift light anytime I want. I also ground it using the MAP sensor plenum bolt.

Daryll, the shift light has 3 wires - 12V+, Ground, and tach feed. I had this same shift light in my red '91, and I tapped into the white wire that's located in the bundle with the white dead-end connector seen here:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_3216.jpg

I think I set it for 6600 when I installed it in the red car.

[VetteMed]

Ordered my New two stage Raptor light in Amber. Im stealing your install suggestion Andrew lol.
This is going to be installed by the ZFDOC which I think is the best person I can think of to detrmine the shift points. I have ask him to record the shift points so I can pass them on to the community. Car is already over there while in LA for the RH tensioner upgrade.

Sounds good!

[VetteMed]

Update:
New heater core is installed
Harlan shift light installed (even amidst reports of inaccuracies with the LT5 ignition)
Clarion keyless entry installed, integrated with stock security system
Arc KS125.4 Class-H Amp installed in driver's side cargo well (above ABS/FX3)
Image Dynamics 8" Subwoofers installed in stock rear locations (fabricated new mounting plates from 1/4" MDF)
Image Dynamics 5.25" Coaxially mounted Components installed in custom MDF front enclosures
Alpine CDA-W925EHI installed in dash
Ensolite and RAAMmat installed throughout body and doors
94-96 inner door panel supports installed, with 94-96 Lock actuators (PT288 wiring pigtail needed if anyone's interested)
Dash and dash pad reinstalled
* - Note - Forward edge of dash pad was separating from plastic frame - used gorilla glue and small black trim screws to repair, then covered with strip of ensolite matching curvature of leading edge. Eliminated wavy appearance nicely.

Console reinstalled
Carpets reinstalled
Halo panel changed from stock dark gray to 94-96 black
Speaker covers re-covered in gray speaker cloth instead of stock carpet

[-=Jeff=-]

Update:

Arc KS125.4 Class-H Amp installed in driver's side cargo well (above ABS/FX3)



Can you snap a picture of this when you get a chance?

I want to see how well it fits

[VetteMed]

Can you snap a picture of this when you get a chance?

I want to see how well it fits

Sure, I'll get a pic soon. It's snug, but it just barely fits, with enough room for a pair of crossovers and wiring.

[VetteMed]

94-96 Door panels and hush panels installed, headunit installed. Speaker covers redone in black speaker cloth.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0068.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0069.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0071.jpg

[-=Jeff=-]

did you recove the OEM Dash pad on the Pass side with the vinyl or did you make the the 94-96 lower hush panel work?

[VetteMed]

did you recove the OEM Dash pad on the Pass side with the vinyl or did you make the the 94-96 lower hush panel work?

I hacked up the OEM lower dash plastics to enable the 94-96 passenger side hush panel fit. It's not perfect, there's a 1/8" gap, but it looks decent. I'd like to figure something else out, I think it'll probably involve obtaining a 94-96 dash frame and grafting some bracketry over to the early dash.

[-=Jeff=-]

I hacked up the OEM lower dash plastics to enable the 94-96 passenger side hush panel fit. It's not perfect, there's a 1/8" gap, but it looks decent. I'd like to figure something else out, I think it'll probably involve obtaining a 94-96 dash frame and grafting some bracketry over to the early dash.

Where is the gap? I wanted to do that as well (carpet on that side is crappy and has been dyed) a couple close up shots would be nice if you could

I would just have to find a torch red panel somewhere

[VetteMed]

Where is the gap? I wanted to do that as well (carpet on that side is crappy and has been dyed) a couple close up shots would be nice if you could

I would just have to find a torch red panel somewhere

The gap is on either side, where the black dash pad meets the gray lower hush panel. I could probably fill it in with some caulking or something if I wanted to be a real redneck [-X

I'll head out to the garage for some pics... brb.

[VetteMed]

Pics of pass side hush panel:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0072.jpg
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0073.jpg
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0074.jpg

Pic of Arc amp and crossovers, forgive messy (temporary) wiring.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0075.jpg

[ittlfly]

Maybe you could use balck upholstery piping to fill that 1/8" gap. It would finish it off without a lot of work.. Hell, if I had your money, I'd burn mine. :mrgreen:

[VetteMed]

Maybe you could use balck upholstery piping to fill that 1/8" gap. It would finish it off without a lot of work.. Hell, if I had your money, I'd burn mine. :mrgreen:

Good idea!

If you had my (lack of) money, you'd think you already DID burn yours. How do you think I have all this time on my hands? ;)

[-=Jeff=-]

I like the size of that amp..

here are my Arc Amps:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_N1g6599TmMo/TSviizpCt-I/AAAAAAAABdA/w3JB2KMYYVY/s720/2011-01-10_22-11-11_287.jpg

[Captain A]

Be careful about heat build up with the your amp.

[todesengel]

Be careful about heat build up with the your amp.

+1

[Blue Flame Restorations]

You give me inspiration to get my 88 done.

Great work and pics!!!

[VetteMed]

Be careful about heat build up with the your amp.

Yep, well aware of that issue in that location. I've drilled many holes in the storage area lid, and will use spacers to keep the carpet elevated a little off of that area, to allow for airflow. I think that should be adequate. Thanks for the heads up though.

[sammy]

what did you have to do to make the 94 door panels fit ?. i would love to do that to my car

[VetteMed]

what did you have to do to make the 94 door panels fit ?. i would love to do that to my car

Need to swap to the 94-96 metal inner door mounting panels, OR, you could probably drill out and re-rivet the L-bracket that holds the screws in the inner door pull area of the doorpanel. The 94-96 also uses a revised lock actuator and actuator mounting position. The lock rod or door open rod is also different, I can't recall which right now. Some hacking of passenger side fiberglass is needed behind window switch for proper fitment.

It's not a terribly tough swap.

[VetteMed]

Today's update:

Got the rear cargo area back together, with new(used) carpets and plastics, and re-covered speaker covers. I used a nylon 1/2" spacer under the rearmost screw holes to give some standoff from the subwoofer surrounds.

Removed the original lower front air dam, it was in really rough condition, installed new aftermarket unit. Fits well and looks good.

Did some major degreasing of the doorjambs. These things were filthy. Some rags and simple green, and they're presentable once again. I should have taken a "before" pic but I forgot - take my word for it, there was 20 years of grime and grunge built up there.


http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0104.jpg
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0105.jpg
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0106.jpg
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0107.jpg

[tomtom72]

=D> I just have to say Andrew that your interior work is off the hook!

The door panel swap/conversion makes the 90 panels look so out of date! The hatch area & the door jams all look excellent! Kudos!

May I ask your impressions of the aftermarket air dam? I have one as I got tired of spending the $$ on the GM parts. How is the fit and how was it on the install? It looks like OE in the picts, but how does it look in person?
TIA

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

=D> I just have to say Andrew that your interior work is off the hook!

The door panel swap/conversion makes the 90 panels look so out of date! The hatch area & the door jams all look excellent! Kudos!

May I ask your impressions of the aftermarket air dam? I have one as I got tired of spending the $$ on the GM parts. How is the fit and how was it on the install? It looks like OE in the picts, but how does it look in person?
TIA

:cheers:
Tom

Thanks, Tom! I had a '94 C4 before I got into the ZR-1s, and since I can't afford a '94-95, this is the next best thing ;)

I had low expectations for the aftermarket air dam, since it's made of more rigid plastic than the stock pieces which are a little more rubbery. it's also more of a grayish color than black, but it looks good once installed. In order to get the side pieces to line up properly, I had to start with the screws in the center(the corner), and then work in either direction. I am happy with the final result.

[-=Jeff=-]

Need to swap to the 94-96 metal inner door mounting panels, OR, you could probably drill out and re-rivet the L-bracket that holds the screws in the inner door pull area of the doorpanel. The 94-96 also uses a revised lock actuator and actuator mounting position. The lock rod or door open rod is also different, I can't recall which right now. Some hacking of passenger side fiberglass is needed behind window switch for proper fitment.

It's not a terribly tough swap.

the Door Lock rod is changed due to the repositioning of the Door Lock actuator

[VetteMed]

the Door Lock rod is changed due to the repositioning of the Door Lock actuator

Thanks for the clarification, Jeff!

[VetteMed]

Update:
My rear differential continues to leak oil from the pinion seal. This is the second seal I've put in, along with a repair sleeve around the yoke sealing surface. I am hoping that I did an inadequate job of cleaning the outer seal bore in the differential housing, or there's a nick that I missed, and perhaps cleaning that up, plus a new seal, and some "the right stuff" around the outer seal bore, might stop the leak. I've also got the kent-moore seal driver tool on the way, since last time I just used a block of wood.

I don't care so much about the leak, but when it drips on the exhaust, it really stinks. Hopefully next time around will seal it up.

Today I think I fixed my persistent FX3 problems. When I first got the car rolling again, I had every code in the book - at least 6 or 7 codes present. Clearing them a few times got rid of all but the Left Rear out of position. I tried swapping the L front actuator on to the L rear shock, for testing, with no change at all. I then returned the LR actuator to the LR shock, and then swapped the entire shock and actuator assembly from LR to RR, and the code disappeared. I can't explain it, but I'm not complaining.

I pulled the plenum yesterday, to re-do the wiring for the AC compressor clutch. When I replaced the wires last year, the replacement pigtail did not have the clamping diode, and so I've been paranoid that I'm going to fry the ECM once I get the AC working again. Eckler's sells the wiring with the diode, so I swapped that in. I never really got a clear answer about whether or not the ZR-1 has that diode elsewhere in the harness, so I figured this was safer than guessing.

I've been a little concerned about a possible engine oil consumption issue. I can't be sure just yet, I need to monitor it a little closer, and there's still some slight seepage from somewhere in the front of the motor, but it seems that the level on the dipstick has dropped faster than I would expect from the amount I find on the garage floor.

[VetteMed]

Be careful about heat build up with the your amp.

Turns out this is very accurate - there's just not enough air space and airflow in the compartment, even with my modified storage compartment cover. I am going to relocate the amp to behind the driver's seat (I'm only 5'9" or so, plenty of room behind the seat).

[tomtom72]

Andrew, this is just a shot in the dark so take it as a fwiw.

I remember reading about an issue that could develop at the trans tail seal if the T/Q on the beam bolts is over the specified value, and ( this is where my memory fails me ) if the C-beam is not centered correctly. Apparently bad alignment and or T/Q on the beam bolts distorts the tail housing causing a leak.

Okay, here goes my screw ball reasoning!:o If that can happen at the trans end of the beam, why can't it happen at the pinion end of the beam.

I do believe I read this in the Q & A section over at Bill's site, zfdoc.com.
http://zfdoc.com/

I wish I had better command of this subject to give you some better thoughts to help solve this issue.

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

Andrew, this is just a shot in the dark so take it as a fwiw.

I remember reading about an issue that could develop at the trans tail seal if the T/Q on the beam bolts is over the specified value, and ( this is where my memory fails me ) if the C-beam is not centered correctly. Apparently bad alignment and or T/Q on the beam bolts distorts the tail housing causing a leak.

Okay, here goes my screw ball reasoning!:o If that can happen at the trans end of the beam, why can't it happen at the pinion end of the beam.

I do believe I read this in the Q & A section over at Bill's site, zfdoc.com.
http://zfdoc.com/

I wish I had better command of this subject to give you some better thoughts to help solve this issue.

:cheers:
Tom

Tom, that's a good thought. I am using the Beam Plates from Bill B., and I followed the FSM torque specs, so I don't know what else to try in the quest to do the job properly. I'll double-check my torque specs with a new torque wrench I just bought, next time around.

On another note, my Service Ride Control light came back on during the drive home from work today. Guess I didn't fully eradicate the gremlins. Gonna pull the codes in a few minutes.

Andrew

[VetteMed]

Well, the SRC light went off the next time I started the engine. The codes pulled were:

13
22
21
33

So I'm confused... This points to LR and RR, and LF issues. Since I've swapped the LR assembly with the RR assembly, it seems to me that perhaps this could be related to the controller or wiring. However, since the light went off, and I know some folks have had success just clearing the codes over and over again, perhaps that will be effective in my case.

[tomtom72]

Andrew,

I had the same issues when I did my new shock install. It drove me crazy for almost two months.

Not to sound smug but I was sure I had the mechanical steps correct, gear depth & T/Q and even the reuse of the top bushings I marked them for position. The one thing I didn't do was use contact cleaner on all the plugs before doing the dielectric. I have since used it on the fronts and those codes stopped, the rears are a different story. I still get the odd code & it's 3 yrs down the road.

As usual this is just a fwiw.

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

Tom, I haven't yet tried cleaning the contacts nor applying any dielectric grease. I guess that will be my next step if there's no improvement.

Thanks
Andrew

[Kb7tif]

Well I found out with my system it does not take much to make the actuators bind when they turn, I had several good actuators to swap around and still threw codes. What i finally did was I took out the rubber washer in the actuator (for giggles) and Voila no codes.

What I did was cut a 5MM slice of wood on my table saw and used that as a reference. If the bolts on top are torqued correctly the distance is exactly 5mm. I know this If the actuators dont just drop into place, and there is any problems aligning or forcing the spring clips to lock them in place, system is NOT happy.
I replaced all the gears and didn't even need new actuators just reused the old one (these are stout pieces) Got it all working with no codes then the shocks started to wear and got codes again, Said the &^%* with it took out the BulB on info center the rest is history.

[VetteMed]

Well I found out with my system it does not take much to make the actuators bind when they turn, I had several good actuators to swap around and still threw codes. What i finally did was I took out the rubber washer in the actuator (for giggles) and Voila no codes.

Good to know - I'll try that if I hit a wall with other options.

[VetteMed]

Relocated the amp today, it was getting way too hot in the storage compartment, so it's now mounted behind the driver's seat.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0147.jpg

I also used some open-cell foam to pad the console lid, and take out some of the wrinkles in the Redlinegoods.com console cover.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0148.jpg

[GOLDCYLON]

Good to know - I'll try that if I hit a wall with other options.


Andrew when I changed my shocks the first time all I saw all these codes as well. The shock height to Actuator is critical. I found sucess after letting the new shock bushing sit with the weight of the car for a few days as they were new as well and needed to compress a little. Using a wrench in the slot on the shock threaded shaft is important in order to prevent the shock stud from turning inside the body of the shock. I adjusted the height on all four corners to 1.5 threads above the top of the nut. Worked like a champ. No cost solution giver her a try. Daryll

[VetteMed]

Andrew when I changed my shocks the first time all I saw all these codes as well. The shock height to Actuator is critical. I found sucess after letting the new shock bushing sit with the weight of the car for a few days as they were new as well and needed to compress a little. Using a wrench in the slot on the shock threaded shaft is important in order to prevent the shock stud from turning inside the body of the shock. I adjusted the height on all four corners to 1.5 threads above the top of the nut. Worked like a champ. No cost solution giver her a try. Daryll

Thanks Daryll! I will definitely give that a try if the problem persists.

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks Daryll! I will definitely give that a try if the problem persists.


Looks real good Andrew a true labor of love. :cheers:

[VetteMed]

Today, I had to take the dash apart once again, to diagnose inoperative cruise control. Idiot that I am, I forgot to plug the connector back into the cruise control module the last time I had everything all apart.

I also ran new vacuum lines to/from the cruise servo, since the originals were dryrotted badly.

While I had the dash pad off, I removed the "tone generator" module once again. It's very inconsistent in its activity, sometimes it will work, most of the time not. I took the circuit board out of the case, and heated up most of the major solder joints. Seems to work much more consistently now.

Yesterday I had the rear hatch and the side windows tinted. Rear hatch done in one piece, took the installer 3 tries, and it's still not perfect - he says he can fix any issues after the sun has cured it for a few days, but I have my doubts. I'll bring it back to the shop next week, and I have a feeling he's going to need to redo the whole thing.

Rear diff leak seems to be slowing down, maybe the seal is wearing in? Engine oil leak is still pretty persistent, and I'm procrastinating in getting underneath to try to find it. Dipstick is almost a quart low, in only about 400 miles since I topped it up.

[sammy]

you might want to take a look at the oil filter housing and see if that might be your oil leak . i found that to be leaking on both my 90 and 92

[Jim Nolan]

The oil line to the oil cooler on my '92. If it is leaking good luck. Not hard to change but, there is no way to avoid a mess, no matter how neat you are.

[VetteMed]

The oil line to the oil cooler on my '92. If it is leaking good luck. Not hard to change but, there is no way to avoid a mess, no matter how neat you are.

Thanks Jim, my oil cooler lines are aftermarket braided steel lines, the OEM pieces were leaking but already replaced.

It appears that there's a leak from the oil temperature sender, which I had resealed with teflon tape a few months back - and apparently that's not the correct method. The FSM calls for Loctite 565 on these fittings, so I've ordered some of that and will also re-seal the oil cooler fittings with this correct material. The teflon tape does not appear to hold up well to hot oil.

[VetteMed]

you might want to take a look at the oil filter housing and see if that might be your oil leak . i found that to be leaking on both my 90 and 92

Thanks Sammy, turns out you may be in the right neighborhood. Will update after things are re-sealed!

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks Daryll! I will definitely give that a try if the problem persists.

Andrew any luck ? Daryll

[VetteMed]

Andrew any luck ? Daryll

Daryll, the last 2 times I drove the car, no codes... but yesterday I got a 3-inch long sheet metal screw through a rear tire, so that trip was cut short...

[tomtom72]

Daryll, the last 2 times I drove the car, no codes... but yesterday I got a 3-inch long sheet metal screw through a rear tire, so that trip was cut short...

Ouch! I know how that feels. I've lost three 315's over six years to screws going thru the tire.....it just seems like it's the little things that come along every now & again to make our day an enjoyable one!

[GOLDCYLON]

Ouch! it just seems like it's the little things that come along every now & again to make our day an enjoyable one!


I hear that lost a few the same way. Those big tires have a big footprint. Let hope everything else is smooth sailing Andrew

[-=Jeff=-]

Hey VetteMed,

how are you liking that Arc Audio Mini amp? I am looking to swap from my Arc 300.4 to the same one you have, mainly due to space constraints..

what are your opinions on that amp of yours?

[VetteMed]

Update:

I pulled the plenum once again, to finally get the A/C system up and running. When I pulled the rubber evap vacuum line off of the hard line, I got a handful of black granules. I shook the rubber line, and got a whole bunch more. Turns out the charcoal canister behind the rear wheel took a crap, and sent charcoal all through the line and presumably through the solenoid and into the intake. I'm hoping it didn't score up any cylinder walls too badly.

[VetteMed]

Hey VetteMed,

how are you liking that Arc Audio Mini amp? I am looking to swap from my Arc 300.4 to the same one you have, mainly due to space constraints..

what are your opinions on that amp of yours?

Jeff, now that I relocated it out of the storage compartment, it's doing well. it was getting entirely too warm in the compartment. However, I'm only 5'9" so I tend to keep my seat somewhat forward, leaving plenty of room for the built-in fan to cool the amp when mounted behind the driver's seat. It's very powerful and clean for its size.

[-=Jeff=-]

Damn, I had a chance at 2 to replace my bigger Arcs and I passed, ah well, I can deal with what i have.. LOL

[VetteMed]

Update: I removed the oil filter housing yet again, since I believe the oil pressure light switch is the cause of my persistent oil leak - I've had difficulty in diagnosing it until I realized it leaks mostly while running, not parked. After unscrewing the oil pressure switch, I held the switch with the threaded nose down, and the electrical terminals up. I filled the electrical terminal connector area with some oil, then used compressed air in the threaded fitting. Sure enough, it caused air and oil to spray through the terminals. Pretty much confirmed the leak. Hopefully that's the last leak for a while.

The AC system is giving me fits. I've got a new compressor/condensor/evaporator/accumulator/orifice tube. I added 3 oz of mineral oil to the evap, 2.5 to the accumulator, 1 to the condenser, and around 3 to the compressor. I evacuated the system down to 29.9mm Hg, then added 36 oz of R12 (the factory spec).

Cooling is nonexistent, the system cycles very rapidly, every 3-4 seconds, the low side gets cold but the evap fins do not get cold and therefore the air does not get cold. I disassembled the system today and found over 8 oz of oil in the evaporator, hardly anything in the other components. WTF is going on??

[VetteMed]

Update:

Engine oil no longer leaking, so it appears that the oil pressure switch was indeed the culprit.

AC system still giving me fits, it took 4 tries to get a correctly built evaporator - either the core was built improperly, or the fittings were metric (94+ is metric, prior to that is SAE). System is now bolted together and evacuated, awaiting charging again.

Replaced both motor mounts yesterday - I had suspected that they were damaged, since I just can't get clearance between the #1 header primary and the steering shaft, no matter what I do. The original mounts were cracked clear through.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/IMG_0340.jpg

In order to access the mounts, I had to remove the headers, and I was reminded of my laziness when I found half of the header bolts finger-tight, and the gasket blown-out at the #8 cylinder.

The rear diff pinion seal leak seemed to slow down, but it still soaking the entire nose of the rear diff, and running down the c-beam bolts. I'm going to re-do it once again, using the proper kent-moore seal driver, and applying loctite in between the repair sleeve and yoke.

[VetteMed]

I figured it was time for an update, since it's been about 6 months since my last one.

Current mileage:191,855

The little mishap involving the fencepost and the rear quarter panel is now behind me, thankfully. During that ordeal, I also had the headlight buckets and CHMSL housing repainted. Still need a total repaint, really, but that's not in the budget for a few years.

I refinished my seats, steering wheel, and shift knob, using SEM prep products and "Classic Coat" leather and vinyl paint. It may not be everyone's taste, but I like gray interior, and was in the mood for something different.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0589.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0592.jpg


The steering column is out of the car right now, the upper tilt housing was worn, causing the pivot pins to wobble. Hopefully have a new column coming soon.

I've been having a flare-up in my old back problems, and I noticed that the lumbar support in my truck seems to help, so I made it a priority to get the lumbar supports in the 94-96 sport seats functioning. It would have been an easy thing to just pop the whole switch assembly into the console, but one of my favorite parts of the 90-91 interior is that the seat controls are backlit at night, and I didn't want to lose that. Therefore, I had to wire in the controls for the sport seats as a piggy-back to the existing controls, which ended up not being as difficult as I had initially feared.

The lumbar/side bolster controls are essentially independent of the fore/aft/front height/rear height adjustments. I bought a complete sport seat wiring harness off of ebay. I separated out the harness, removing the 6-pin rectangular plugs that connect to the seat motors, and with what I had left, I tapped into the original 90-93 lumbar power connection at the console, and the rest was plug and play into the seat bases. I hid the controls in the center console compartment:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0591.jpg

I did a DIY 4-wheel alignment recently, surprisingly it wasn't as bad as I had feared it would be, though the trial-and-error process of adjusting shims for caster and camber was a little tiresome.

Going to need front tires somewhat soon, but I'm going to try to wait until the rear Sumitomos are a little more worn, and replace all four together.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Being a "I want to build my own car" type of guy, I really like your thread and all of the things that you do to suit yourself.

Congrats and keep going!!

[-=Jeff=-]

I like how you mounted the Lumbar controls cool idea

[sammy]

is the airconditiong working now? like what you have done to your car . my black car has 199521 miles on it .race you to 200000.hehe

[GOLDCYLON]

I like how you mounted the Lumbar controls cool idea

I have to agree pretty slick mod there Andrew. GC

[mike100]

how much work is it to remove the column? I did some repairs on my last C4 in situ and it wasn't very fun.

[VetteMed]

how much work is it to remove the column? I did some repairs on my last C4 in situ and it wasn't very fun.

Not bad, really. There's 2 nuts (13mm) that secure the lower mounting flange to the firewall.
The 2 10mm nuts that secure the accelerator pedal bracket also need to come off.
There is a nut on the coupler between the steering shaft and the column, just below the brake booster in the engine bay. I think that's a 13mm.

There's 2 15mm bolts that secure the column to the underside of the dashboard frame.

Other than that it's just trim and wiring :)

[VetteMed]

I like how you mounted the Lumbar controls cool idea

I have to agree pretty slick mod there Andrew. GC

Thanks guys... that was the only thing holding me back from doing the mod, I wasn't sure where to put the controls. :cheers:

Hopefully my spine will thank me.

[VetteMed]

is the airconditiong working now? like what you have done to your car . my black car has 199521 miles on it .race you to 200000.hehe

I think you're gonna beat me to 200,000!

I got the AC working about as well as I think is possible, I ran into a lot of problems along the way, and I am now a lot more proficient with working on AC systems, as a result. One of the big problems I was having, was that the vacuum line for the fresh air door was malpositioned, so that recirc was inoperative, and when it was 90 degrees + outside, the interior never cooled off. With the ability to recirculate properly, within about 25 minutes of highway driving, even at 100 degrees outside, the interior is very comfortable. I'll take it.

[sammy]

tinting the rear hatch and side windows help alot in cooling her down .since tinting the window my car gets almost too cool even when its over 105deg

[VetteMed]

tinting the rear hatch and side windows help alot in cooling her down .since tinting the window my car gets almost too cool even when its over 105deg

Yep, did that too, I forgot to mention. That helped a lot. 20% sides and rear hatch, plus solid top.

[sammy]

well at least its getting cooler for a few months . i wish i knew more about that stuff but i gave you everything i knew . you might try flushing the system again .it almost sounds like that little filter in that one tube might be partially plugged . i put a new one in last year and in no time i found it to be plugged. i had to flush and evact the system 3 times to get all the junk out . oh what did you use to dye the steering wheel /?

[VetteMed]

well at least its getting cooler for a few months . i wish i knew more about that stuff but i gave you everything i knew . you might try flushing the system again .it almost sounds like that little filter in that one tube might be partially plugged . i put a new one in last year and in no time i found it to be plugged. i had to flush and evact the system 3 times to get all the junk out . oh what did you use to dye the steering wheel /?

A plugged orifice tube is an interesting thought, but I plumbed in an inline filter which would have caught any significant debris since it's got a screen with a smaller opening size than the screen on the orifice tube. Combine that with the fact that the system didn't suffer a failure like a seized compressor, and there's really no reason for there to be any significant debris in the system.

As for the steering wheel, I used SEM Classic coat. I'm pasting my writeup that I put on the other forum, below:

I have grown tired of looking at the steering wheel in my ZR-1, with its 20+ years of accumulated dirt, grime, and loss of color. Some folks opt for covers, such as those made by Wheelskins, but I wanted to try something a little different. I didn't want to make the rim of the wheel any thicker than stock, so a cover was not something that I wanted to do.

Having used SEM's leather and vinyl refinishing products previously, on seats, shift knobs, and dash plastics, as well as the steering wheel of an Escalade (light cream colored from the factory), with excellent results, I figured it was time to work some magic on my ZR-1.

Supplies needed:
Blue heavy duty paper towels
Simple Green (I diluted it 50%)
SEM Soap
SEM Plastic and Leather Prep
SEM Classic Coat Flexible Coating

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0561.jpg
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0571.jpg

Any automotive paint supply store should stock SEM products. They're also available online but if you're going to try to match a specific color I'd suggest ordering a color chip chart from SEM first.

I decided to change the color of my wheel, to Light Gray, which is an exact match for the 92-96 Gray interior. I have 1994-1996 Sport Seats in my ZR-1, in gray, and I recently refinished those as well, the color is as close to stock as possible.

Some folks may just want a new-looking black steering wheel, in which case, the only difference is the color you choose to buy.

I'm not going into details of steering wheel removal, there's other threads with that info. This was close to my starting point (already had 2 wipedowns with simple green and a soft brush. I diluted the SImple Green half and half with water, but I don't know if that's really necessary.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0562.jpg

Already looked a bit better after the simple green, but the next step showed me that there was a lot of dirt remaining. Using the SEM Soap, apply a small amount to a blue towel and rub a small section, and wipe off before it dries.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0564.jpg

Here's what came off after one pass with SEM Soap. Lots of grime still left on that leather.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0565.jpg

You want to repeat this step until the towels are staying relatively clean, without much grime coming off. It's time consuming, but the color coat will stick much better in the long run if you take your time.

After the blue towels seem to be staying clean after rubbing with SEM Soap, dry the wheel thoroughly and then grab your can of Plastic and Leather Prep. The process for this product is much the same as for the SEM Soap, but because it's a VOC-based product, the working time is shorter, and you'll need to focus on smaller sections at a time.

After you're confident that you've hit all sections of the leather at least twice with the Plastic and Leather Prep, it's time to paint! be sure to mask off anything you don't want to paint :D.

continued....

[VetteMed]

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0570.jpg

Classic Coat is unlike any rattle can paint you're used to. If applied properly, it lays down very thinly, and absorbs into the material very nicely. I applied several light "dust" coats, about 3-5 minutes apart. Multiple light coats will give better results than fewer heavy coats -- trust me on this one!

Almost done:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0575.jpg

Before painting airbag:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Steering%20Wheel/IMG_0576.jpg

After airbag:
I decided to go ahead and do the airbag as well:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0592.jpg

This same process can be used on any leather, vinyl, or plastic items, I suspect. Prep and cleanliness are key!

I'll update with a final pic once it's all installed back in the car.

[tomtom72]

:handshak: Andrew, That is going to look so great with your seats. Oh yea, nice job on that slick wiring trick. Kudos man. Your interior will look so like it should have come that way from the general!

Okay, I'm partial to grey interiors myself.

Your car is going to be the boss when you're done!

:cheers:
Tom

Oh, I forgot this. Fwiw, great choice to do the air bag. Very integrated look, much better than black!

[XfireZ51]

So how is this paint when it comes to wear?

[VetteMed]

So how is this paint when it comes to wear?

It wears well on the seats that I've done, when the seats were properly prepped. I expect that the heavy wear areas such as the bolsters will probably wear thin within a year or so, but time will tell. I am not driving the Z right now because there's no steering column in it ;)

The 2500HD that I use as my DD had the seats done by the previous owner, who didn't prep them well, and there's some areas of peeling. The slightest bit of dirt or oil or grease will of course prevent proper adhesion of the paint.

-Andrew

[VetteMed]

:handshak: Andrew, That is going to look so great with your seats. Oh yea, nice job on that slick wiring trick. Kudos man. Your interior will look so like it should have come that way from the general!

Okay, I'm partial to grey interiors myself.

Your car is going to be the boss when you're done!

:cheers:
Tom

Oh, I forgot this. Fwiw, great choice to do the air bag. Very integrated look, much better than black!

Thanks Tom! We'll have to start our own "Gray Interior Fan Club". :dancing

-Andrew

[GOLDCYLON]

Well it had grey buttons to start right? Looks very clean and the "hidden" C4 logo on the airbag pops more. Most folks dont even know its there in the split deployment line.

[tomtom72]

Thanks Tom! We'll have to start our own "Gray Interior Fan Club". :dancing

-Andrew

:mrgreen::thumbsup: I'm "IN" on that. You can be the Chief of Interior Design Concepts. Me, I'll be in charge of sanitation....

When you get it all back together please post up some picts. I'll bet your treatment of the wheel will provide a smoother transition from the black of the dash pad to the very large grey area of the seats! Okay, so I'm no interior design engineer/stylist ( thank god! ). :sign10:

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

I received the new steering column from Johnny (phrogs) today, it is in great shape. However, since it's a 1990 column, it was not an exact swap for the 1991 column. The connector for the air bag is different, requiring that the clockspring assembly and wiring be swapped out. In order to do this, the lock plate and turn signal assembly have to be removed, so it is a little bit time consuming. I also changed out the lock cylinder for my original one, since the VATS is still looking for the correct resistance.

I have the steering wheel reinstalled, but it was dark, so no pics tonight. I'll try to get some taken tomorrow.

[VetteMed]

Pics!

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0624.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0625.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0623.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/IMG_0634.jpg

[-=Jeff=-]

Tastefully done..

I like it

[-=Jeff=-]

What headunit is that?

[VetteMed]

Thanks, Jeff.

The headunit is an Alpine CDA-925 EHi, not sold in the US. It's only sold in Malaysia and Australia from what I've been able to find.

[-=Jeff=-]

What cool features does it have?

[mike100]

I like it. Did you have the e-brake cover done custom, or was it something off the shelf to match the console lid and shifter boot?

btw, you were my inspiration to rebuild my tilt column. It's on its way back together already. I think I intervened early enough (car only had 27k on it when I got it) and only had to buy the tilt base. The housing only has about .002 slop on one side that I have a bay to bush up. All I have to do now is find a couple of missing screws on a trim item and fix my CD and then the everything will be factory functional on my car.

[VetteMed]

What cool features does it have?

Not many... other than amber illumination which was a priority for me. It's got a decent ipod connection feature, but it doesn't charge while connected. Sound quality is good, but realistically, the unit was more for looks than performance. I strongly dislike touch screens in cars, and I also dislike units with push-button volume controls. Alpine's user interface is clunky to say the least, but the only other double-DIN units that had the ability to display amber, looked very cheap or didn't meet my other criteria.

[VetteMed]

I like it. Did you have the e-brake cover done custom, or was it something off the shelf to match the console lid and shifter boot?

btw, you were my inspiration to rebuild my tilt column. It's on its way back together already. I think I intervened early enough (car only had 27k on it when I got it) and only had to buy the tilt base. The housing only has about .002 slop on one side that I have a bay to bush up. All I have to do now is find a couple of missing screws on a trim item and fix my CD and then the everything will be factory functional on my car.

Thanks Mike,

The e-brake cover was a one-off item from Redline Goods, but once they receive my install pics they will be selling them through their website (which is the same place that made the shift boot and console cover many months ago).

The column is a PITA, but it's one of those things... not much choice in the matter. Glad you got yours fixed up before it was too far gone like mine :-({|=

-Andrew

[-=Jeff=-]

Hey, is that the Shift know I sold you? how did you color change that and the steering wheel?

[VetteMed]

Hey, is that the Shift know I sold you? how did you color change that and the steering wheel?

Yep, that's the same knob. Read a few pages back in this thread, you'll see where I changed the steering wheel. I also have a thread over at the other forum, "DIY steering wheel refinish on a budget". Did it with SEM products, available at most paint supply stores.

[VetteMed]

Got the Nitto 555 tires installed, and had an alignment done. I was trying to do the alignment myself by the string method, and I got it close, but kinda lost patience with the process. A local euro import shop came highly recommended by a neighbor who restores Porsches, seems like they did a very good job, attaining the specs I requested.

I also removed and reinstalled the C-Beam, as I was having some jumping of the shifter during acceleration and shifts. Turns out some of the original adhesive was preventing proper mating of the surfaces. The movement of the shifter is completely eliminated once the C-beam is properly seated.

With the new tires, alignment, and properly installed c-beam, the car feels incredibly smooth and balanced, compared to before. I was driving around today, in disbelief that the car is 21 years old with 192,000 miles on it. Ran the LT5 up to 7K a few times... It was a good day :)

[GOLDCYLON]

Awesome Andrew !

[tomtom72]

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Yea, three of'em! Isn't it great when your plan finally comes together? Good for you Andrew! I'm glad you are finally getting to enjoy the fruits of your labor.


I agree with you about sometimes it's hard to believe that we are driving 20+ yr old cars and they just are soooooo smooth!:worship:

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

Been driving the Z a lot, just hit 193K miles, yesterday get in the car to go run some errands, turn the key, and CLICK, no crank. Battery checked out good, connections good, clutch switch bypassed, starter was rebuilt about 5k miles ago. Since the starter seemed to be the only possible explanation, with the battery and connections ruled out, I pulled the plenum and brought the starter to a local rebuilder to have it checked out.

Turned out to be a missing nut on the stud that is on the "motor" side of the solenoid. Apparently the previous rebuilder neglected to reinstall the nut, and just slipped the rubber cover over the stud. Amazing that it functioned properly for as long as it did.

BTW, there was no way the nut loosened and fell off, as it wasn't in the valley. Just a sloppy rebuilder, I guess.

Got the starter back in and the plenum back on in record time... got home from work at about 6PM, done with dinner by 7, had the motor running by 9PM. As good as I've gotten at working under the plenum, I still curse the guy who chose to utilize that long connector on the back of the ignition module, with the 1/4" nut. WHY is it that the connector that is toughest to get to, has the most ridiculous retention method?


Also... I had this shop bench-test 2 spare LT5 starters that I had on hand, both tested good, if anyone wants to buy one as a spare I'll let em go for $75 shipped.

[pantera1683]

Been driving the Z a lot, just hit 193K miles, yesterday get in the car to go run some errands, turn the key, and CLICK, no crank. Battery checked out good, connections good, clutch switch bypassed, starter was rebuilt about 5k miles ago. Since the starter seemed to be the only possible explanation, with the battery and connections ruled out, I pulled the plenum and brought the starter to a local rebuilder to have it checked out.

Turned out to be a missing nut on the stud that is on the "motor" side of the solenoid. Apparently the previous rebuilder neglected to reinstall the nut, and just slipped the rubber cover over the stud. Amazing that it functioned properly for as long as it did.

BTW, there was no way the nut loosened and fell off, as it wasn't in the valley. Just a sloppy rebuilder, I guess.

Got the starter back in and the plenum back on in record time... got home from work at about 6PM, done with dinner by 7, had the motor running by 9PM. As good as I've gotten at working under the plenum, I still curse the guy who chose to utilize that long connector on the back of the ignition module, with the 1/4" nut. WHY is it that the connector that is toughest to get to, has the most ridiculous retention method?


Also... I had this shop bench-test 2 spare LT5 starters that I had on hand, both tested good, if anyone wants to buy one as a spare I'll let em go for $75 shipped.

PM sent on starters

[tomtom72]

I'll take one if Pantera don't want both....I only have one Z!:mrgreen:

:cheers:
Tom

PM sent just in case.;)

[VetteMed]

I'll take one if Pantera don't want both....I only have one Z!:mrgreen:

:cheers:
Tom

PM sent just in case.;)

PM sent! :cheers:

[tomtom72]

PM sent! :cheers:

:) PM received and read and replied with another PM!:sign10::thumbsup:

:cheers: Andy!
Tom

[VetteMed]

About time for another update...

Due to a progressive increase in what sounded like a top-end rattle or knock (possibly lifter(s), tensioner(s), or other part, I decided that the original LT5 would run its last mile, just shy of 195K miles. Not the 200K I was hoping to hit, but I really didn't want to push my luck and end up wiping out one or more cams in the process.

Financially, I decided that the best option was a stock replacement LT5. While I'd like to go for a 368 or 372, the cost is prohibitive for me at this time. Also, all of the incidentals are going to be replaced (clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, master/slave), and that of course adds to the overall cost of the project.

The replacement LT5 will be coming from White Racing Products.

Here's where I'm at in the tear-down process:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0101.jpg

Headers/Exhaust are off, c-beam and driveshaft off, all electrical connections on motor are disconnected, motor mounts unbolted, cooling system connections disconnected, pretty much all that needs to happen now is to remove the transmission, then pull the motor out.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Smart move before something really broke.

[VetteMed]

Apparently some of you guys are far more worried than I am about numbers matching. Seeing as my car is a DD, I want it back on the road as soon as reasonably possible, so I can continue to enjoy it for what it is.

I suppose I can ask the mods to close the thread at this point if it seems pointless. I thought some might still be interested, given that the car is more than just an LT5 and four wheels... maybe not?

[Blue Flame Restorations]

SO......what was really about to break?
And...is this the end of this thread if you install a rebuilt engine?


I'm no LT5 expert but spent alot of years in the manufacturing industry. If it doesn't sound right, you stop and figure out what the issue is before something else fails.

VetteMed, I'm always interested in anything.

[RHanselman]

Not that I have any concerns but I was wondering how you selected from who to buy from? Availability/price or??? Are you getting core value from your old eng or you selling it as is?

Cheers,

[VetteMed]

Not that I have any concerns but I was wondering how you selected from who to buy from? Availability/price or??? Are you getting core value from your old eng or you selling it as is?

Cheers,

First concern - price. Money is very tight for me right now, some tax issues going on, plus wife is a full time student. I don't like to shop by price (that's the wal-mart mentality), but I have confidence that Kurt is going to be selling a good product.

Second concern - availability / convenience. The motor is available NOW, I want my car back on the road ASAP. Kurt's shop is only 2 hours from me, so it is close enough for me to pick up without shipping fees.

Kurt is taking my motor as a core. core charge $3500 otherwise, which is probably more than I'd get selling it on my own, given the high miles on it. That is minus the IHs, plenum, TB, and accessories - I have a hard time believing that my well worn block/heads/pistons/rods/crank etc would be worth any more than that to someone else.

[VetteMed]

I often check this thread out and may have questions myself in the future regarding some technical issues. This thread is referenced in Solutions in several areas so I am sure additional technical questions will arise no matter if you decide to not rebuild this engine. It has been a great thread and I expect will continue to be a great reference thread :cheers:

I would definitely keep the thread open for future technical questions :cheers:



I concur completely and will stand by to see what actually happened to this LT5 :handshak:

:cheers: I may not be able to figure out where the noise was coming from, prior to handing it over as a core, but hopefully Kurt's rebuilder will report back after the fact, for our own learning experience.

[Kevin]

I'd like to know who kurt is using to do the rebuild.

[limey]

Guys,

we rebuilt the motor ourselves. Stock motor rebuilds are no problem, it's only when modifications and such are needed do i send the work out, or port work etc. Then i have Pete or someone do this.

The motor Andrew purchased from us is really a smoking deal and frankly i'm surprised more people don't go this route. When he sees the motor, he'll be blown away. It has BRAND new heads & all new cam cover bolts, new water pump, new sensors - new rings - bearings - oil pump, chains - wear strips, tensioner and on and on the list goes. No to mention, it looks brand new.

I don't think anyone can touch our price for the rebuild, but please correct me if i'm wrong.

I even warranty it too!

I wouldn't want to rebuild his motor for one simple fact, TIME FRAME. That's the only issue, we are small operation and rebuilding LT5's isn't something i do normally, more for the heck of it to be honest and just another product to have for sale. So i was to rebuild Andrews motor, look for a 2-3 month time, not to mention, i wouldn't guarantee that i could rebuild it for anywhere near the $4499.99 price, there would always be something to add to the cost somewhere, at least buying what he has, he knows what he's getting and it's ready now.

#'S Matching, well when the ZR-1 becomes a 6 figure $$$$ classic it may start to play out, but right now i don't think 99.9 % of people need to worry about this.

PS, I'll have a full rebuilt 93-95 motor ready shortly too $4999.99 on this one.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Good price, Kurt.:handshak:

[GOLDCYLON]

First concern - price. Money is very tight for me right now, some tax issues going on, plus wife is a full time student. I don't like to shop by price (that's the wal-mart mentality), but I have confidence that Kurt is going to be selling a good product.

Second concern - availability / convenience. The motor is available NOW, I want my car back on the road ASAP. Kurt's shop is only 2 hours from me, so it is close enough for me to pick up without shipping fees.

Kurt is taking my motor as a core. core charge $3500 otherwise, which is probably more than I'd get selling it on my own, given the high miles on it. That is minus the IHs, plenum, TB, and accessories - I have a hard time believing that my well worn block/heads/pistons/rods/crank etc would be worth any more than that to someone else.

From my view based upon this situation this is the best case scenario for Andrew. Case in point my car has been down since May of last year. For a stock set up with a whole lot of new parts makes this a pretty good solution. My rebuild has taken forever all because of mostly time issues along the way. This gets Andrew back on the road in the least amout of time possible

[GOLDCYLON]

Guys,

we rebuilt the motor ourselves. Stock motor rebuilds are no problem, it's only when modifications and such are needed do i send the work out, or port work etc. Then i have Pete or someone do this.

The motor Andrew purchased from us is really a smoking deal and frankly i'm surprised more people don't go this route. When he sees the motor, he'll be blown away. It has BRAND new heads & all new cam cover bolts, new water pump, new sensors - new rings - bearings - oil pump, chains - wear strips, tensioner and on and on the list goes. No to mention, it looks brand new.

I don't think anyone can touch our price for the rebuild, but please correct me if i'm wrong.

I even warranty it too!

I wouldn't want to rebuild his motor for one simple fact, TIME FRAME. That's the only issue, we are small operation and rebuilding LT5's isn't something i do normally, more for the heck of it to be honest and just another product to have for sale. So i was to rebuild Andrews motor, look for a 2-3 month time, not to mention, i wouldn't guarantee that i could rebuild it for anywhere near the $4499.99 price, there would always be something to add to the cost somewhere, at least buying what he has, he knows what he's getting and it's ready now.

#'S Matching, well when the ZR-1 becomes a 6 figure $$$$ classic it may start to play out, but right now i don't think 99.9 % of people need to worry about this.

PS, I'll have a full rebuilt 93-95 motor ready shortly too $4999.99 on this one.


Yeah Kurt Hell of a deal

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIRQf0S3oD0

[VetteMed]

Thanks for your input, Kurt.

[VetteMed]

A great thread (or just continue this thread) would be the coverage with photos of the engine exchange (details of removal and installation of parts from old enigne to new rebuilt engine).


I'll be documenting the process with photos, and posting them in this thread. :cheers:

...That is, if I can stop staring at your sig picture.

[Pete]

Kurt,that is a killer price.:thumbsup:

Lets not forget the labor of disassemble and reassemble of short block.

Pete

[Brillo1990]

I'll be documenting the process with photos, and posting them in this thread. :cheers:

...That is, if I can stop staring at your sig picture.
I know what you mean, it's so distracting I have to go back and look at it again when I read more replies. ;)

[VetteMed]

Spent a few hours with the car today, removed the transmission, bellhousing, and pressure plate/clutch disc.

Lots of dirt and grease inside the bellhousing - which I suspect is due to a leaking slave cylinder. There's a little weep hole in the rubber bellows of the slave, and it was leaking fluid quite readily when manipulated.

Slave bellows:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0099.jpg

Bellhousing:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0105.jpg

Black Tag ZF6:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0103.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0121.jpg

Clutch disc, surprisingly good condition for the miles. I am going to have to look through the service records, I can't see this being the original clutch disc.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0110.jpg

[VetteMed]

Pressure plate, some heat discoloration of the surface, but not bad overall

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0111.jpg

New pressure plate, TOB, and clutch disc:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0106.jpg

Clutch fork and ball stud, some wear on the ends of the fork fingers, and some wear on the surface of the stud where the fork pivots:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0117.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0119.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0118.jpg

[VetteMed]

DM Flywheel still bolted to the crank:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0116.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0115.jpg

Headers, swain tech coated but I sprayed them with VHT Flameproof silver, as they were looking a little shoddy.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0109.jpg

[RHanselman]

Guys,

we rebuilt the motor ourselves. Stock motor rebuilds are no problem, it's only when modifications and such are needed do i send the work out, or port work etc. Then i have Pete or someone do this.

The motor Andrew purchased from us is really a smoking deal and frankly i'm surprised more people don't go this route. When he sees the motor, he'll be blown away. It has BRAND new heads & all new cam cover bolts, new water pump, new sensors - new rings - bearings - oil pump, chains - wear strips, tensioner and on and on the list goes. No to mention, it looks brand new.

I don't think anyone can touch our price for the rebuild, but please correct me if i'm wrong.

I even warranty it too!

I wouldn't want to rebuild his motor for one simple fact, TIME FRAME. That's the only issue, we are small operation and rebuilding LT5's isn't something i do normally, more for the heck of it to be honest and just another product to have for sale. So i was to rebuild Andrews motor, look for a 2-3 month time, not to mention, i wouldn't guarantee that i could rebuild it for anywhere near the $4499.99 price, there would always be something to add to the cost somewhere, at least buying what he has, he knows what he's getting and it's ready now.

#'S Matching, well when the ZR-1 becomes a 6 figure $$$$ classic it may start to play out, but right now i don't think 99.9 % of people need to worry about this.

PS, I'll have a full rebuilt 93-95 motor ready shortly too $4999.99 on this one.

Nice and at reasonable prices, terms & conditions.

[VetteMed]

Dual Mass flywheel - has less than an inch of rotation between the halves - see paint dots at 12 o' clock:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0125.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0126.jpg

Rear of motor, showing rear main seal housing, and path of drain tube from valley

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0127.jpg

[GOLDCYLON]

Are you sticking with the DM flywheel or ?

[VetteMed]

Are you sticking with the DM flywheel or ?

That is the plan, if only to maintain the comfort and noise reduction that I'd like to have in a DD. I'm not too worried about the few hp difference that I'd gain from an aluminum FW.

[VetteMed]

I concur......I modified everything else and was shooting for no vibration issues. Besides, DM is pretty easy to change out anytime later after engine reinstalled.

Also.......Does that rebuilt engine come with DM installed? If not, you loose that fine tuning with original balance. I assume you would loose that fine tuning anyway with a rebuilt bottom end :cheers:

No FW on the rebuilt motor as far as I know. I am also going to be installing a new harmonic balancer on the rebuilt motor, so I'll be losing that fine-tuning "nickel on the plenum" effect anyway... Not sure how big a deal that really is anyhow.

[GOLDCYLON]

That is the plan, if only to maintain the comfort and noise reduction that I'd like to have in a DD. I'm not too worried about the few hp difference that I'd gain from an aluminum FW.

I agree. That last pic was great.

[RICKYRJ1]

I have the Findanza FW but hardly any rattle to speak of. I do understand why some choose to stick with the DM for their DD. :saluting:

[VetteMed]

I may have this wrong but..........the HP gain from an aluminum flywheel seems to me to be during angular acceleration only which HP would not show up on a Dyno. In other words, you would gain HP on the drag strip accelerating. Not TOP END HP which would show up on a Dyno. Your HP would not be reduced by a constant rotational speed DM. Only by an angular accelerating DM and only because of the larger rotating mass.

Again....I most likely have it all wrong......but am standing by for some more learning ;)


Sounds reasonable to me, but I'm no engineer or physicist.



Also.......Does that rebuilt engine come with DM installed? If not, you loose that fine tuning with original balance (the pins or Trim Weights in the DM or Harmonic Balancer). I assume you would loose that fine tuning anyway (balanced with DM installed) with a rebuilt bottom end :cheers:

Looks like you have the roller bearing pilot bushing in that original motor :cheers:

Keep up the great detailed photos :thumbsup:

I think that pilot bushing/bearing is fluted, not a roller. I'll get a close-up of it. :cheers:

[VetteMed]

Hmm, looks like it IS a roller. Check out how dried out the rollers are!

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0131.jpg

Transmission jack arrived today -- ZF6 is comfortably strapped in!

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0128.jpg

[Pete]

That my friend is one of the reasons why i use the solid bronze bearing.

That could've got nasty.

Also check screws on the rear main seal housing sometimes you find them loose.
Pete

[WB9MCW]

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/659.gif

THIS SHOWS BOTH HARMONIC AND SINUSOIDAL OSCILLATION

[VetteMed]

That my friend is one of the reasons why i use the solid bronze bearing.

That could've got nasty.

Also check screws on the rear main seal housing sometimes you find them loose.
Pete

I remember hearing about that back in my f-body days, the roller bearing was the "hot ticket" for a while, and then people started to experience some failures.

Thanks
Andrew

[bb62]

Amazing thread. It's remarkable to think about just how much you've learned about these cars over the past few years.

I also would be curious as to how much you have spent since you bought the project (excluding the personalization touches like the white/gray steering wheel which could just as easily have been done to a new car). With the initial car purchase of $9700 plus the "fixes", and if driving is the goal, would it have been better to have purchased a much lower mileage car?

If the goal was to learn about the cars however (and share that knowledge), then you hit a homerun. I also vote for keeping the thread going.

[VetteMed]

Amazing thread. It's remarkable to think about just how much you've learned about these cars over the past few years.

I also would be curious as to how much you have spent since you bought the project (excluding the personalization touches like the white/gray steering wheel which could just as easily have been done to a new car). With the initial car purchase of $9700 plus the "fixes", and if driving is the goal, would it have been better to have purchased a much lower mileage car?

If the goal was to learn about the cars however (and share that knowledge), then you hit a homerun. I also vote for keeping the thread going.

Thanks for the feedback :cheers:

I haven't added up "exactly" what I've spent -- but I think it is a safe estimate that I've at least doubled the initial purchase price -- and that was before the repower project began.

I've spent a lot on things that probably weren't necessary to do -- for example, the Banski rear suspension parts -- I easily could have just put new bushings into the stock pieces which were in good condition. Brake upgrades certainly weren't necessary for a daily driver.

In terms of the amount spent on what was truly necessary to keep the car on the road -- that amount is obviously significantly less. But I still think that it's a more economical choice to buy a cleaner, lower-mileage example, if the ultimate goal is the smallest financial investment.

Overall, I most certainly could have purchased a newer, lower mileage example, with the money I've spent on this car. But, working on the car is half the fun for me (within reason), and I get a lot of satisfaction of driving something on which I have seen and turned every nut, bolt, and screw. I did the same with some previous vehicles, and without question enjoyed them more after I put more into them than they were worth.

Financially - it's a loser. But it's a hobby -- and hobbies traditionally are financial losers. So I can justify it in the end.

:flag:
-Andrew

[tomtom72]

I'd like to add my thanks to the list of people that appreciate you taking the time to do this Restoration Thread. Thank You Andrew!:thumbsup: I've learned a whole bunch of stuff from you!:mrgreen:

I'd also like to express my best wishes on your motor project. It still bites that you have to dive into it now. I'm sure you would have preferred that project to postpone itself till some much later date. The deal that Kurt is giving is a very neat solution to the issue. Kudos to Kurt.

Also just as a fwiw I'll give you the view from buying the low mileage virgin side of the fence. In the long run it's not much cheaper mechanically. My car sat too much for the first 14 yrs of it's life. I buy it and drive the snot out of it and all the stuff that was used to being "on vacation" eventually had to be repaired or replaced. In the end at the rate I put miles on her I'll bet we arrive at the same dollar figure because the same stuff wears out. JMHO.:o

Good luck with this latest project, and I hope you're back on the road soon Andrew!
:cheers:
Tom

[mike100]

... But I still think that it's a more economical choice to buy a cleaner, lower-mileage example, if the ultimate goal is the smallest financial investment.


-Andrew

The grass isn't that much greener on the low mile car side of the fence.

I probably had to put $7k into my car. Like you, I didn't have to do all of the work that I did, or could have skipped on a couple of things, but I wanted this car to be as perfect as it could before I drive the life out of it. All of my older cars never got 'finished' because I had to drive them everyday.

As was mentioned in the post above, my car sat for 5 years a it really did not like being driven. It took 6 months to find all the weak links. My biggest issue was one of the previous owners mashed the 2nd gear synchro...The rest of the stuff has been nickle-and-dime Saturday afternoon repairs, for the most part.

Good luck with the new engine.

Mike

[VetteMed]

Also just as a fwiw I'll give you the view from buying the low mileage virgin side of the fence. In the long run it's not much cheaper mechanically

Tom

The grass isn't that much greener on the low mile car side of the fence.

Mike

Tom, and Mike, thanks for your insight, that does make me feel a little better :cheers:.

Today's pics:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0135.jpg

I utilized a starter mounting bolt and an alternator mounting bolt for the sling:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0138.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0140.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0142.jpg

[VetteMed]

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0143.jpg

Ready for its trip to Tampa...
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0147.jpg

Had to remove balancer:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0148.jpg

Bolt is a 21mm:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0149.jpg

Junk "Autocraft" balancer puller I bought at Advance auto -- I don't recommend it.
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0151.jpg

Old balancer compared to new balancer; note cracking throughout rubber ring of old balancer.
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0157.jpg

[VetteMed]

Timing cover pulled for inspection - Things look pretty good in there, to my eye at least:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0153.jpg

Location of the coveted "matching numbers" for VIN #302:
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0155.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0154.jpg

[VetteMed]

Ready for cleaning and painting:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0146.jpg

[ZZZZZR1]

Andrew,


Great pictures! I saw this car in person a few weeks ago and it was in great condition.

Glad to hear you got a great deal from Kurt on another motor and you will be back in business very soon.

:cheers:

David

[VetteMed]

This is my favorite photo :thumbsup:

Thanks for the update and especially the photos :cheers:

You need a load leveler when you reinstall the engine me thinks ;)

Chicago, IL 32 deg and snowing
Micanopy, FL 60 deg and sunny :D

Yep, I like that pic too!

Load leveler arrived via USPS an hour after that pic was taken! Good to go for the new motor installation.

[VetteMed]

One thing I thought was interesting, that I forgot to comment on earlier ---

the harmonic balancer had NO pins in it for the 'fine tune' balance that I hear folks talking about.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0148.jpg

[VetteMed]

Andrew,


Great pictures! I saw this car in person a few weeks ago and it was in great condition.

Glad to hear you got a great deal from Kurt on another motor and you will be back in business very soon.

:cheers:

David

Thanks, David! :cheers:

[Jagdpanzer]

the harmonic balancer had NO pins in it for the 'fine tune' balance that I hear folks talking about.

Then the vibration level on your engine was within spec without the need of additional balancer trim weights when it was checked during the factory dyno test. Did you find any trim weights in the DM flywheel?

[White Bullet]

Nice Job!

[limey]

Andrew,

I'll see you tomorrow, but please check your email!

Kurt.

[VetteMed]

Email read and replied, Kurt.

[Pete]

Chicago, IL 32 deg and snowing
Micanopy, FL 60 deg and sunny :D


Cliff :p

Man that weather does look nice,will you adopt me?:)
We're getting snow tonight,phooey

Pete

[VetteMed]

Cliff :p

Man that weather does look nice,will you adopt me?:)
We're getting snow tonight,phooey

Pete

I think we can work out an adoption agreement... but it'll involve porting:cheers:

Andrew

[VetteMed]

I met Kurt this morning (heck of a nice guy, BTW). We exchanged my old motor for his new one, and I was on my way back home.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0158.jpg

Cam cover bolts removed, masked off for paint:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0159.jpg

First coat of paint:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0161.jpg

[VetteMed]

Since I've been running with the Secondary Port Throttles deleted, I needed to perform the deletion procedure on the new heads (which definitely ARE new!). I took some pics of the process, for anyone considering doing the same on their own motor:

Here you can see the throttle plate, and I'm using a vise-grip pliers to hold the magnet end of a telescoping retrieval magnet. All of the materials (plate, shaft, screws) are ferrous, so the magnet is a little insurance policy against losing anything down the intake port. The screws are a T10 torx.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0163.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0164.jpg

Once the screws are removed, and stuck to the magnet, the entire plate/loose screws assembly is carefully lifted up via the magnet.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0165.jpg

[VetteMed]

Next step is the removal of the throttle plate shaft and bearing assembly.

View of the shaft, in the intake port

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0166.jpg

View of the external portion of the shaft

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0167.jpg

A socket is fit over the threaded end of the shaft (I used a 5/8"). The key is that the hex end of the socket must be large enough to accomodate the bearing as it's pulled out of the cylinder head, yet small enough to fit flush on the flat surface surrounding the bearing.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0168.jpg

A fender washer is then placed over the threaded end of the shaft that protrudes through the square end of the socket

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0169.jpg

The actuator arm nut is then threaded back on to the shaft, and carefully tightened against the washer, which will then pull the entire bearing assembly out of the head. A needlenose pliers, with a rag or towel as cushion, is used to grasp the throttle shaft to prevent rotation.

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0171.jpg

Done! 7 more to go!

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0173.jpg

[-=Jeff=-]

Nice that motor looks pretty good.. Will you have it running this weekend?
LOL

[VetteMed]

Nice that motor looks pretty good.. Will you have it running this weekend?
LOL

Might take me a little longer than that to get everything all squared away... Heck, it'll kill a whole day to finish painting the cam cover lettering :)

[GOLDCYLON]

Great time for a stainless bolt upgrade.

[VetteMed]

Great time for a stainless bolt upgrade.

Yep, actually already had them on my old motor... transferring them to the new one after paint is done. =D>

[GOLDCYLON]

Yep, actually already had them on my old motor... transferring them to the new one after paint is done. =D>

Awesome bro don't hurry or rush your almost there. GC

[VetteMed]

Daryll, no rushing here -- gonna possibly be held up for a while until I can obtain a tool to install the harmonic balancer on the crank. Anyone have one they'd be willing to lend or rent?

[VetteMed]

The brotherhood comes to the rescue again -- Phil (Jagdpanzer) is going to lend me his installation tool! Thanks Phil!

[VetteMed]

Painted, clearcoated, stainless bolts installed:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0178.jpg

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Looks great!

[carter200]

Looks really good and clean......

[GOLDCYLON]

Looks great

[ZZZZZR1]

WOW!!!

big change from 3 weeks ago!

:cheers:

David

[VetteMed]

Thanks, guys!

[GOLDCYLON]

WOW!!!

big change from 3 weeks ago!

:cheers:

David

No doubt kudos to Kurt as well

[tomtom72]

Yes! That looks sweet! I sense a bad case of the return of the permagrin coming on again!

Way to be Andrew!:thumbsup:


:cheers:
Tom

[RICKYRJ1]

Great Effort with great results, looks sweeet, nice job! Congrats on keeping her alive

[Blue Flame Restorations]

No doubt kudos to Kurt as well


I agree. Kurt is Da Man on this one. Great price on the rebuilt unit.:cheers:

[VetteMed]

This morning, the new motor found its way into #302's engine bay without much difficulty:

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0181.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0182.jpg

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0184.jpg

Waiting on clutch hydraulic components from Jim Jandik (power torque systems) before I can proceed any further at this point. Hoping for maybe next weekend to make more progress.

[tomtom72]

wow, just wow. You are doing this solo? Man I have respect for you Andrew! Or any of the guys that do this solo. =D>

:cheers: Here's to a million miles of smiles for you and her!:thumbsup:

[VetteMed]

wow, just wow. You are doing this solo? Man I have respect for you Andrew! Or any of the guys that do this solo. =D>

:cheers: Here's to a million miles of smiles for you and her!:thumbsup:

Yep, been solo up to this point! Forum member White Bullet (David) offered to drive here this morning to help, but I felt bad having him drive 90 miles each way, knowing that we couldn't proceed any further than simply dropping the motor in place. That's a lot of driving for 30 minutes of work!

[tomtom72]

I hear you on the distance thing. Okay, this is going to sound corny at best. I know you know this also. Most all of us would do that for each other just because we are part of this "thing" that is our common link? Nope, because we just like getting dirty and helping each other out!:sign10:

Once a gearhead, always a gearhead! And you thought I was going to say something profound! :wink:

:cheers:
Tom

[VetteMed]

I've been working a lot lately, so I've only had an hour here, an hour there, to get things put back together.

flywheel, clutch, transmission, c-beam, and driveshaft are all back in place.

injector housings, AC compressor, alternator, PS pump, all installed.

today probably going to get the plenum back on if all goes well, and start on the exhaust.

Now, my question of the day:

Does anyone have any recommendations or suggestions on an appropriate break-in procedure for the motor?

[VetteMed]

Got things looking pretty good today. Accessory drive complete, plenum is back on, engine and trans filled with lube, headers on.

Got a pic of the LT5 looking more complete, though it was a bit dark outside already... :D

http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv163/agchoset/1991%20ZR-1/Repower%20project/IMG_0209.jpg

[GOLDCYLON]

Looking great Andrew !

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Purrrrrrdy...................

[VetteMed]

Thanks guys! I got 'er running just a few minutes ago! Seems to idle very well, BUT, I think my injectors are making some noise (different from the noise my old motor was making) . This noise is a very prominent ticking noise.

My suspicion of the injectors being the source of the noise at this point, is that the motor bogs very badly when the throttle is opened at all. The fuel rail and injectors were sitting unplugged from the fuel lines for at least a month or so. I wonder if one or more became gummed up during that time spent sitting. I remember back in 2009, when I bought #1147 and changed the injectors to FIC rebuilt/reconditioned/whatever units, I let them sit dry for a month or two before installing, and had a similar off-idle bog. John at FIC exchanged them and mentioned that they can 'dry out' (?) if they sit a while.

I guess I'll contact FIC again and see if he has any thoughts on the matter.


I have a mechanic's stethoscope, I'll try tomorrow to verify the injectors as the source of the noise.

[VetteMed]

SO, Jon at FIC says that it could be one or more injectors sticking due to rusting caused by moisture from the air while they were sitting in my garage (no shortage of humidity here!). I guess this is one advantage to those pricey stainless steel injectors, eh! Jon has offered to service the injectors if the problem persists and the sticking injector(s) don't free up on their own.