Byron 9/26 Sunday

[LGAFF]

Going to Byron this Sunday, thats a 1/4 mile then hang a left, can you handle that?

[Paul Workman]

Going to Byron this Sunday, thats a 1/4 mile then hang a left, can you handle that?

What time?

[LGAFF]

We are meeting there at 10am

[-=Jeff=-]

Lee,

don't forget tot check your fuel level before you leave...

You and Dom have fun..




Once the clutch and trans are replaced maybe I will go.. ;)

[LGAFF]

Car ran like dog$hit......not sure what is wrong, tires, coils, gas?

[-=Jeff=-]

Post E.T. and MPH for all runs

what did you change on the car since the last time you ran it at the track??

[LGAFF]

Its going to take a few weeks of therapy before I can post.

[-=Jeff=-]

Then email them to me. how many passes? All relatively the same as the first pass?

[LGAFF]

Car ran 13.3/112.65, 13.5 110, and 13.0 at 112.02. This is a car that on a crap run usually hits 12.6 and change....dyno'd 391rwhp

60 fts were bad best was a 2.24, even with 60fts like this I usually run faster. Coils are original, don't really hear a miss.....might be knock?

[LGAFF]

Best time to date is 12.4s @ 116.68 on street tires, has run over 117Mph

[XfireZ51]

We need some dyno time. Exactly what changes have been made since the 116 trap speeds?

[LGAFF]

No changes

[-=Jeff=-]

Any mods or changes since the last time you ran the better et?

[LGAFF]

Nope, have to wonder how much of it is Gas quality, or other.....changed my oil and thats about it.

Coils are originals.

Injectors are Accels, pumps are only a year or so old. Tires are 1 year old Sumituno's

[-=Jeff=-]

The Weather and the tires would contribute to the slow ET.. cold track, cheap tire and I bet you spun out of the hole.. But even with spinning you should show a better MPH.

Also I thought you had not run with the Lightweight FW, Speaking of did you adjust the tune at all after adding the Fidanza? Even if you tell me that it ran great last year with the Fidanza and no change in tune, was the weather the SAME then as today? The fuel might have been fine for that day last year but not today..

What are you shifting at? using a Tach or Shift light? is your tach Accurate? did you have a Scan tool on the car during the runs to see if there was knock? what was the AFR during the runs? I would be looking at everything before throwing money at it. try to find where the issue is..

[Pete]

I keep telling you guys if you wanna pull your hair or go gray just keep racing at Byron.

I bet with no changes you could run 120 at Byron next week.

Al was gonna be there today did you see him?
Did you see a Supra and a Mercedes CLS65 running 10's well maybe 11's at Byron, both guys names are Marco but Marco in the Mercedes is the Supra Marco had the fastest Supra back in the day 8.50's now he cruises in a 10 second luxury Mercedes.

Pete

[LGAFF]

Al was there I saw the CL65 run 11.3 last year and it eased out of the hole, and let up at the end....scary.

No 441 for AL:(

[Ccmano]

Before you drive yourself crazy, you need to plug all your best runs into an altitude density calculator like this one.

http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php

Temperature, humidity and air pressure can have significant affects on the results for any given day and location. This will give you a constant basis for comparison by taking away those variables.
H

[Pete]

We need some dyno time. Exactly what changes have been made since the 116 trap speeds?


Byron LOL

[Pete]

I have been racing for a very long time and have always used US 41 and GLD never in my life have i seen a 4-7 MPH difference that is like 65-100 HP loss

Even now you guys can see my Z run from one day to another i get 128-129 and that is at 3 different tracks.

Lee go to Byron next week you'll run 118.

Lee,can you tell me your 1/8 MPH & ET

Pete



Before you drive yourself crazy, you need to plug all your best runs into an altitude density calculator like this one.

http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php

Temperature, humidity and air pressure can have significant affects on the results for any given day and location. This will give you a constant basis for comparison by taking away those variables.
H

[LGAFF]

Well checked fuel pumps both go to 55lbs then drop to 40lbs.....bleed down to 30 in about 40 seconds.......


But I now have a decent vacuum leak with pump going off every 8-9 seconds, and vac test it drops quicking.

[LGAFF]

Vac leak fixed but now 2ndries are not opening at all, car run fine until the power key to full......

[rhipsher]

I'm thinking vacuum solenoid. I don't know how you test them to see if its working but they're only about $36. 4 years ago that was the culprit on mine.

[XfireZ51]

I'm thinking vacuum solenoid. I don't know how you test them to see if its working but they're only about $36. 4 years ago that was the culprit on mine.

Same here

[LGAFF]

Cannot find a repalcement....any links?

[rhipsher]

I still have the box it came in from UPS. When I get home I'll get the name/address and website for you. It was a place in Michigan.

[LGAFF]

Could I leave it plugged in(Eletrical) and then just bypass it so the 2ndaries stay open all the time......either on engine or pump vacuum? Or will the injectors not turn on?

[XfireZ51]

Could I leave it plugged in(Eletrical) and then just bypass it so the 2ndaries stay open all the time......either on engine or pump vacuum? Or will the injectors not turn on?

You can strap the secondaries OPEN like I did. Then we burn a chip that works with secondary injectors on all the time. =JEFF= can build a quick Diff MAP connector that tells the ECM your vacuum is good or connect vacuum line from secondary pump directly to Diff MAP sensor. Plug vacuum lines. Good to go for now. Everything reversible.

[rhipsher]

That vacuum solenoid has a little filter on the back of it and when it crumbles to dust after so many years it allows dust and dirt to get sucked into it. If I were you I'd take it off and blow some compressed air in it and see if that uncloggs it. It took me three weeks to figure out thit it was the bad component. But also that check valve thats close to it was stuck on mine also. Air should only flow in one direction on that check valve. And I could blow air in both directions. It was dirty. All there is in that check valve is a little bee bee ball. So I sprayed some WD40 in it and then blew some compressed air through it and it was working correctly again and air only flowed in one direction again. But I cleaned the check valve before I found that the solenoid was just not working. As soon as I installed the new solenoid that thing ran like a rocket again.

[rhipsher]

Lee this is where I bought the secondary vacuum actuator back in 07/2007

(724) 356-2256
Part's zone online
133 main st
Hickory PA 15340.

[LGAFF]

Not seeing it,thanks for posting......Lee

[rhipsher]

Man Lee! I'm sorry about that. They don't have anymore in stock. I got one of the last ones they had 4 years ago. I've looked everywhere I can think of for GM part# 1997222. You might be azz out this time. I still have my old one. There just doesn't look like there's all that much to it the solenoid. I think the only thing that can really cause them to malfunction is dirt getting into them. That is a must have part if you plan to keep the secondary system working in stock form.

[LGAFF]

I am hoping I just f'd up the lines....I was in a hurry as I was parked in the bosses spot when I took it all apart......(wifey)

[rhipsher]

I know what you mean. There's so much damn plumbing under that plenum that if you forget one connection or one line comes off while your lowering it back down the car just won't function right.

[sammy]

have a spare one if you need it .

[rhipsher]

There you go Lee. But Sammy what happens if you send him your spare and then yours stops working.:sign10: