@$@#^^& transmission!

[Paul Workman]

Boy...I wish there was a "works every time" method of getting the clutch disc lined up so poking the trans is easy every time.

In spite of having Ken's input shaft to use, and using a couple guide pins to slide the trans into place...Nada.

Finally, had to resort to having Ami push down on the clutch pedal while I poked the trans in that last 3/4" into the pilot bushing.

That worked like a charm (again), but I was beat by the time I got done with the "bottom end" today. Tomorrow should be better. Compression is up around 220 or better - a far, far cry from what it was the first "go round". With any luck at all, the Z will come out of it's year-long hibernation!

One thing and then another. It has been an ordeal....

P.

[Tyler Townsley]

i have a 2x4 about 2 1/2 ft long I use to hold the cluch pedal down when putting in the cluth. This allows one to wiggle the clutch in order to get it in that last inch or so. I push the clutch pedal in and use the board to brace against the seat and hold it down.

Tyler

[Paul Workman]

:cheers: I am assuming that was to release the clutch disk so it would self align (center to center and rotation) with the spline shaft.

I am searching now to find your post regarding your flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and pilot bushing selection :D

I assumed you replaced the throwout bearing?

Yeah, the spline coupled with the disc = OK, but apparently was ever so slightly off center w/ regard to the pilot bushing. I recognized that to be the problem as the trans slid in but for that final 3/4" - a dead giveaway the disc is not perfectly aligned.

Well, "perfect" alignment is the point of my post. Apparently, it is tough for me to get - regardless of whether I use an input shaft or not! Have had to do the clutch pedal trick a couple other times as well - tough to do by yourself, but as long as you're close, it works like a charm.

I installed a Fidanza Al FW, new sprung hub disc, new PP, pilot bushing and throwout bearings (of course).

I'm using 7/16x1.25"x20 grade 8s with hardened (thicker) head bold washers from a SBC under the FW bolts.

I'm using the longer FW bolts recommended for Al flywheels - name escapes me - help me Dom! Had to deepen and tap the holes in the FW to accommodate the longer bolts; the tap came supplied with the bolts. Locktite (blue) used on PP bolts, and the red stuff on the FW bolts, per mfg recommendations.

P.

[Paul Workman]

i have a 2x4 about 2 1/2 ft long I use to hold the cluch pedal down when putting in the cluth. This allows one to wiggle the clutch in order to get it in that last inch or so. I push the clutch pedal in and use the board to brace against the seat and hold it down.

Tyler

Duh...:o:o I guess I was looking for some special way of aligning the disc. But, I like the 2x4 solution much better! GEEEZE do I feel stoooopid now! Sometimes we get ourselves painted into a corner by not seeing the obvious. So, thanks for that tip, and I'm sure I'm not alone in appreciating it!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Paul Workman]

:cheers: I cannot find the thread where you describe your clutch, pressure plate, pilot bushing, and throwout bearing combination you used with the Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel ;)

There are soooo many combinations :D

Which sprung hub clutch disc did you use?
Which pressure plate did you use?
Which pilot bushing did you use?
Did you use a stock throwout bearing?


Centerforce sprung hub for an LT1 Camaro (don't have the part # handy)
OEM pressure plate (Veleo) purchased under an AutoZone trade name - it is the PP for the ZR-1 and not the thinner one for the LT1 cars (that would be usable, just would have required shorter bolts)
I used the roller-bearing pilot bushing, per suggestion by Marc Haibeck
The TO bearing came w/ the Veleo clutch kit (as did the pilot bearing).


P.