QB93Z
08-22-2010, 11:16 AM
Many 1994 and 1995 ZR-1's (as well as 1994-1996 Corvettes) have an issue with the interior door panels. The door panel gets loose so that the top edge of the door panel will not stay firmly attached to the top edge of the door, resulting in the door panel showing a large gap at the window.
One of the WAZOO guys, Yun (Second Chance), has come up with an excellent repair procedure to fix this problem.
The problem is that the 1994 and later door panels are relatively light weight and the design is poor. The internal stiffeners on the plastic part of the panel break, allowing the panel to flex at the top.
This picture shows the stiffeners (ribs). The left edge of the panel is the window trim lip that is supposed to stay connected to the door top. There are three breaks visible. The closest rib is broken at the mold seam, and the next two ribs are broken at the apex of the angle.
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03481.jpg
To fix the flexing problem, it is necessary to flex the panel back to the correct position and then glue the cracked ribs.
Yun's Solution:
Step 1 - Remove the door panel from the car.
Step 2- Cut a small piece of fiberglass cloth to fit over each rib at the cracked area. Piece size will be about 2" by 3". Remember to allow enough width to wrap the cloth on both sides of the rib:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03484.jpg
Step 3 - Using a hair dryer or a heat gun on LOW setting heat the panel to make it easier to bend. If you are working alone, stand the panel so that the window molding edge is resting on a firm surface, and push down on the panel to force the cracked ribs into their correct alignment:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03486.jpg
Step 4 - Hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs have been repaired. An assistant can help, but it can be done by one person if necessary.
Step 5 - Apply a liberal amount of SuperGlue to one cracked area. While the glue is still liquid, apply a piece of fiberglass cloth to the broken area.
Step 6 - Apply more SuperGlue so that the cloth is saturated. Here Yun is using a screw driver to "spread" the SuperGlue around on the fiberclass cloth piece:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03490.jpg
Step 7 - Once the glue is tacky, fold the fiberglass cloth over the rib and apply more SuperGlue to the other side until all of the fiberglass cloth is soaked.
Step 8 - Allow the SuperGlue to "dry". Use of the heat gun on low heat will speed up the cure process:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03492.jpg
Step 9 - Repeat for each cracked rib. Note, for best results, hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs are repaired.
The procedure is messy. You will end up with fiberglass glued to your fingers. Be careful to avoid getting the glue on the front side of the door panel.
Thanks to Yun for showing me this repair. We fixed one of the nagging problems with my 1994.
If you have a loose panel, I hope that it helps you also.
Jim
One of the WAZOO guys, Yun (Second Chance), has come up with an excellent repair procedure to fix this problem.
The problem is that the 1994 and later door panels are relatively light weight and the design is poor. The internal stiffeners on the plastic part of the panel break, allowing the panel to flex at the top.
This picture shows the stiffeners (ribs). The left edge of the panel is the window trim lip that is supposed to stay connected to the door top. There are three breaks visible. The closest rib is broken at the mold seam, and the next two ribs are broken at the apex of the angle.
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03481.jpg
To fix the flexing problem, it is necessary to flex the panel back to the correct position and then glue the cracked ribs.
Yun's Solution:
Step 1 - Remove the door panel from the car.
Step 2- Cut a small piece of fiberglass cloth to fit over each rib at the cracked area. Piece size will be about 2" by 3". Remember to allow enough width to wrap the cloth on both sides of the rib:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03484.jpg
Step 3 - Using a hair dryer or a heat gun on LOW setting heat the panel to make it easier to bend. If you are working alone, stand the panel so that the window molding edge is resting on a firm surface, and push down on the panel to force the cracked ribs into their correct alignment:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03486.jpg
Step 4 - Hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs have been repaired. An assistant can help, but it can be done by one person if necessary.
Step 5 - Apply a liberal amount of SuperGlue to one cracked area. While the glue is still liquid, apply a piece of fiberglass cloth to the broken area.
Step 6 - Apply more SuperGlue so that the cloth is saturated. Here Yun is using a screw driver to "spread" the SuperGlue around on the fiberclass cloth piece:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03490.jpg
Step 7 - Once the glue is tacky, fold the fiberglass cloth over the rib and apply more SuperGlue to the other side until all of the fiberglass cloth is soaked.
Step 8 - Allow the SuperGlue to "dry". Use of the heat gun on low heat will speed up the cure process:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2010%20Aug%20WMD%20Headers/DSC03492.jpg
Step 9 - Repeat for each cracked rib. Note, for best results, hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs are repaired.
The procedure is messy. You will end up with fiberglass glued to your fingers. Be careful to avoid getting the glue on the front side of the door panel.
Thanks to Yun for showing me this repair. We fixed one of the nagging problems with my 1994.
If you have a loose panel, I hope that it helps you also.
Jim