Stage 1 Porting

[LGAFF]

Well, I am pressed for time so I can get the snake skinner project on the road sometime soon, so I am doing a "stage 1" Plenum port this time around.

Primary: 36mm for plenum narrowing to 35mm at the fuel injector boss, boss is removed and will taper to 33mm(maybe 34mm)

Secondary: open to 36mm to fuel inj boss. clean up after that(flap)


Going pretty fast, I did 5 IH hole down to the Inj boss in about 2hrs,

So we will see what we get

[Eric870]

.

[Eric870]

[QUOTE] "Going pretty fast, I did 5 IH hole down to the Inj boss in about 2hrs,"

Lee will you post a picture of the tools and bits you use? I like to see what you found works best.

[LGAFF]

This one makes it go pretty quick:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/058.jpg




http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/057.jpg
I use these to get to harder to reach spots, the long shank I only use on an air compressor driven tool, as at high RPM it whips.

I use a cheap Harbor Freight Grinder and a small air grinder

Finishing is done with a 1" X 1" flap wheel 90 or 120 grit

[LGAFF]

I would not use a large bit on the head, the alum seems softer

[Eric870]

I would not use a large bit on the head, the alum seems softer

Yes, Aluminum is very soft and gummy. I use a piece of steel to clean the bits when they get gummed up.

[LGAFF]

Are you using something to lube the area you are porting, if you spray WD40 or put grinders grease on the surface, the alum will not stick and the metal comes of like BUTTA!

[Eric870]

Are you using something to lube the area you are porting, if you spray WD40 or put grinders grease on the surface, the alum will not stick and the metal comes of like BUTTA!

No, I have just been cutting DRY.:redface: It's is a bad habit from work. I work in a clean room environment and we can't use oils. I just by bits by the gross.

[LGAFF]

I have heard of some using Dish soap but have not tried it.

[Eric870]

I have heard of some using Dish soap but have not tried it.

Soap does not work well. But Wax works in a pinch.

[Paul Workman]

I started a thread a while back on the subject of favorite porting tools. It proved quite interesting, I think.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11263&highlight=Porting

As for the bits fouling, plain ol WD40 on the work and on the bit worked extremely well for me - far as cutting and keeping the bur clean.

After trying a variety of tools, both electric and pneumatic - cheap and better quality, I guess it is no surprise that the good stuff is waaaaaay better than the cheapo stuff, IMO.

My favorite tool is the long Snap-On pneumatic. It is relatively light weight, and very controllable when using both hands, speed is infinitely variable continuously, and is instantly on or off. By draping the hose over my shoulder and using both hands on the tool, locking elbows and using my legs and hips to move me and the tool as one...worked very well for me.

For certain "easy does it" jobs, especially at lower speeds, I found the electric grinder has its place as well. But, I almost gave them up because using them in conjunction with a speed controller, the torque left a lot to be desired, and the speed would drop under load:mad:.

However, the Makita mentioned in the thread is a whole different animal! It is a constant speed tool, and even at low speeds there is tons of torque and speed is constant under load. Quite a tool, to be sure.

Have a look. Anything you want, I can get less than 10 minutes from my work at Fleetwood tool in Addison, or the Snap-On dealer practically next door to Fleetwood.

P.

PS I tried using the Harbor freight speed controller on a modest quality electric:thumbsdo:

[XfireZ51]

I used a good quality electric grinder with a Harbor Freight speed control. The burrs are double fluted to avoid cutting too deeply. Makes for a smoother finish to begin with. Then various grit ball hone to finish it up.

[LGAFF]

4.5hrs on the 1st IH and they are pretty much done......36mm at the top, moved to 35 at the boss, and narrows to 33mm at the IH to head surface.

Bosses are gone.

2ndries are at 36mm


I am interested to see the performance difference if any, its amazing how much time it takes to open up the area after the boss and the IH to head surface in comparison.(meaning going to a few mm/36 takes forever in comparison)

[flyin ryan]

ATF works good too. Keep some in a cup & dip your burr....

[Locobob]

I use a spray lube called Mega Foamcut, Ace Hardware has it.

[Paul Workman]

Keep some in a cup & dip your burr....

Are you talking about porting or porking????:p

P.

[LGAFF]

Would anyone be interested in doing this type of set up for $425 plus shipping?

Let me see what my total time into it would be....I believe that this porting is not much different than what some charge much more for and is considered fully ported.

[Hammer]

Are you talking about porting or porking????:p
P.
:sign10:

[LGAFF]

Not cleaned up yet.....but you get the picture

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/064.jpg


http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/068.jpg

[Topfuel]

When porting aluminum use bar soap on the bit or use ATF dip bit into one or the other ever so often it really keep the bit from gumming up. Soap seams to work better for me. ATF or WD-40 adds oil to the pores of the aluminum and if you have to weld on the Aluminum afterwards the oil will mess up the welding just my .02 worth
By the way looks good that is what I did to mine much much better than stock. Keep the slightly rough surface on the ports helps keep the boundry layer smaller on the air flow.

[Paul Workman]

When porting aluminum ... Soap seams to work better for me. ATF or WD-40 adds oil to the pores of the aluminum and if you have to weld on the Aluminum afterwards the oil will mess up the welding just my .02 worth

Keep the slightly rough surface on the ports helps keep the boundary layer smaller on the air flow.

"Oil messing up the welding"... NOW he tells me/us! (spent "a little" on welding myself!)

Thanks for that input. I tried a little sample of a water-based cutting liquid - seemed to work OK. But, it was just a sample that soon ran out and the WD-40 was handy and seems to work just as well. I'm well aware of the aluminum porosity, but never thought much about oils like WD-40 penetrating the pores - leading to issues when welding (heads especially).

Well...That tip is worth the Arty Johnson "Veddy Intorestink" award!

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/VeddyIntadestink-1.gif

P.

[LGAFF]

Still open to doing these

Stage I for $450
Stagr for $700

[z proud]

any dyno # for stage 1 and stage 2?

[LGAFF]

No and honestly i doubt there would be a large variance, I had planned on a dyno test but unfortunately I have bad rings.

My stage 1 is not much different than what many consider a full port job. If you are not port matching the heads you wouldn't want 36mm at the head face anyway, as there would be air turbulance from going from 36mm to 34mm(air hitting a wall)

The biggest obstacle is the Inj bosses and I take them out.

[Scrrem]

Still open to doing these

Stage I for $450
Stagr for $700

Lee,
Give this some consideration, what's the turn around on a Stage I job?
Rich

[LGAFF]

Pretty quick, I already have a set of IH ported, I would just need to do a Plenum which only takes a weekend to complete. The IHs are black, would need to be painted or PCd


If you do not want an exchange, meaning me porting your exact plenum and IH, I would say 3 weeks. I do have a meeting in CT from 11/9-11/12

[LGAFF]

Just an FYI, I will be trying out a Powdercoater and will let everyone know the results, he already has done a few sets of wheels for me......

Siamese port project starts soon and I will be pulling my ported intake off soon, will be available for core and $.

[LGAFF]

Shot of what I consider Stage I...these are coming off the 90 and will exchance for stock pair for $450, the $450 includes porting your plenum. These IHs are currently black.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/RSCN3619.jpg

[Paul Workman]

Shot of what I consider Stage I...these are coming off the 90 and will exchance for stock pair for $450, the $450 includes porting your plenum. These IHs are currently black.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/RSCN3619.jpg

Thanks for sharing, Lee. Mine (below) are modeled after Pete and Marc H's. I don't know what "stage" they would be equivalent to, but generally follow Marc's line of thinking; "...you really can't make the plenum and the IHs too big on the LT5." - don't know what "Stage" they would equate to.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/ZR-1007.jpg

But, in comparison, there seems to be a bunch more meat and flow shaping to be cut around the secondary injector boss in the pic of your IH, no? And, it looks like there is little or no expansion of the IH outlet into the heads. I'm not critiquing, but just trying to get an idea of your "Stage-I specification". For some reason, this induction design vs. performance stuff always fascinates me, I recon.:)

P.

[GregCrowe]

Has anyone done any before/after dyno tests from just porting the Plenum and Injector Housings ?

[tomtom72]

Has anyone done any before/after dyno tests from just porting the Plenum and Injector Housings ?

check out this post by Locobob:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13986