Where I am at so far..

[todesengel]

Wanted to give you a brief update on where I am at with everything;

There are 14 outputs on the haltech p2000, so here is how I am going to wire everything;

I am going to run the first 8 injectors in sequential (eight outputs)
I am going to utilize a resistor box, and run the second set of 8 injectors in batch.(two outputs)
Obviously I am going to run wasted spark on the 6.0 truck coils (four outputs)

There is no way I can make the haltech read the factory crank sensor, so I am going to modify a 60-2 tooth wheel to fit the harmonic balancer, and fabricate a mount for a bmw crank sensor. I ordered two of the wheels, and am going to try to place it on the backside of the balancer first, and if that fails I will simply bolt it to the front of the balancer.

Along with the p2000 I purchased the wideband setup that will direct p&p into the haltech. Once I get my base tables set, and a target afr, the haltech will take the readings from the 02's and adjust the afr in real time (temporarily, unless I set it to modify the base map permanently). I also purchased two new ait sensors (screw in) so that I do not have to worry about them blowing out under positive pressure, and both the stock ecu, and the haltech have a reading.

I am going to retain the stock ecu for all on essential functions (guages, a/c, etc) and just start by robbing it of the inector and coil control. I am not too sure how "smart" the old factory unit is, but with any luck it will not recognize that it is no longer firing the coils, and injectors.

Preliminary work has begun, and I am waiting for further parts at this time.

Fuel;

I am going to modify the stock hanger to become a true "twin feed". I am going to utilize the stock fuel line as a feed, and run a new -6 an ss line for the other. Each rail will have its own independent feed line, returning to a "y block, to a aeromotive afpr then back through the stock return line. It should be noted that the standalone I purchased has the "long leads" which includes new fuel control (triggering fuel pumps) with relays. I opted to go this route instead of allowing the factory ecu to continue controlling it. It just makes sense to take this function away from the aging unit for reliability's sake.

Brand new 63# seimens injectors for both primary and secondary injectors will supply the fuel to the engine. Entire secondary system (minus injectors of course) will be removed, as well as ignition module, coils, etc.

I would also like to say thanks to Jerry (took pictures of the crank for me), Pete, the Haltech guys for their great customer service, and everyone else who have helped me by answering my constant questions.

I am now a Haltech dealer, and my total cost in the project is as follows;

Standalone $1650.00
COP'S-$53.51 x 8
Wideband-(with two sensors) $290.00
crank sensor-$60.00
Boost controller-$60.00
Resistor box-?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Man, you sure are one smart dude.......I'm waiting to hear about this project.:happy1:

[todesengel]

Man, you sure are one smart dude.......I'm waiting to hear about this project.:happy1:

No sir, I just have a lot of help from interested people. This is more a "community" effort than me going alone. If it wasn't for the help I have gotten from quite a few people I would not even be close to figuring this out.

By the way, it was great to meet you. Glad you made the journey to be a part of history :notworthy

[todesengel]

Here is the second spare lt5 I have purchased for this project. The plan with this engine is major porting, rebuild the lower end with 8.5-9.0:1 compression and major cosmetics.

Hopefully work can begin rather quickly on this so I can have it ready by mid july. By that time I should have my tt setup ready to go, and will have most likely popped the first engine pushing it's ability with the turbos.

The second spare is going to be stroked, and lower compression (my plan anyway). I want to document every mod along the way to compare apples to apples. In theory anyway the stroked engine should reduce the turbo lag, allowing for a more linear powerband. I have already purchased two journal bearing gt3582's, and two dual bb gt3582's. I am also going to work with a local turbo builder to make me some hybrids once I get the initial results from the dyno with both of these turbo setups. Since I am not going rear mount, I am going to have to reduce the oil pressure, I am afraid 60-80 psi will wreak havoc on the turbo seals.

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[HAWAIIZR-1]

No sir, I just have a lot of help from interested people. This is more a "community" effort than me going alone. If it wasn't for the help I have gotten from quite a few people I would not even be close to figuring this out.

By the way, it was great to meet you. Glad you made the journey to be a part of history :notworthy

Well........its way beyond my knowledge and capabilities. You are way smarter that I am for sure, but that would not have been much of a compliment.

Great meeting you too and I have no regrets as it was a great weekend with great folks. I especially enjoyed my first time flying first class and added to my own history.

:handshak:

[todesengel]

OOP'S

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/chaosrob/DSC_0015.jpg

[todesengel]

Nah, you will be suprised what you can do once you get past that intital fear of "screwing something up". There is very little you can do to an engine that you cannot fix. Trial and error is the way you accomplish things :thumbsup:Well........its way beyond my knowledge and capabilities. You are way smarter that I am for sure, but that would not have been much of a compliment.

Great meeting you too and I have no regrets as it was a great weekend with great folks. I especially enjoyed my first time flying first class and added to my own history.

:handshak:

[cvette]

Rob, I've got some of the wear strip plates if you need a couple. Screws are made of unobtainiom. I had to retro fit.

Charlie

[todesengel]

Rob, I've got some of the wear strip plates if you need a couple. Screws are made of unobtainiom. I had to retro fit.

Charlie

That would be great. I am going to have to do some welding on this cam cover, and build the screw hols back up and re-tap. The strip did a number on these when it came apart. If you would forward me a price, and your paypal I will send payment today.

Thanks

[cvette]

Just PM me an address and I'll send them to you as a "donation" to the cause.:handshak:

Charlie

P.S. This is the same thing that happened to my 91 that sent me on my journey of horror!

[todesengel]

Thank you, a very kind gesture.

598 Hwy P
O'Fallon, Mo 63366

I'll buy your rounds next time at the meet :D.

The guy I bought the motor from said he was driving it, heard a loud noise, and pulled off at the next exit. Said the car sounded fine, but had no power. When he shut it off, it would not restart, and had no compression in #8 cylinder :censored:Just PM me an address and I'll send them to you as a "donation" to the cause.:handshak:

Charlie

P.S. This is the same thing that happened to my 91 that sent me on my journey of horror!

[A26B]

Bolts for the cam cover secondary timing chain wear plate.
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=98

Probably a secondary timing chain broke or the wear plate bolt to the cam cover came loose & broke the chain. Valve may be bent in #8 from piston contact.

[todesengel]

Bolts for the cam cover secondary timing chain wear plate.
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=98

Probably a secondary timing chain broke or the wear plate bolt to the cam cover came loose & broke the chain. Valve may be bent in #8 from piston contact.

Thanks Jerry. The chain is not broken, but I am assuming there is most likely a bent valve or two

[A26B]

Hmmmm. If a cylinder has no compression & probably a bent valve is the culprit, something had to alter cam timing. Cam snout @ sprocket not broken either? Keep us posted. Best of luck to you & hope its not too bad. With the project you have planned, I doubt it's anything serious. I'm really interested in your project!!

[todesengel]

I'm not sure yet Jerry, but I will certainly let you know when I get it all apart!

I am glad you are interested in our project, and as said before, every step taken will be documented and shared. I am not doing this to make money, or promote anything, just to share knowledge acquired.

You have already been a big help with this, and I certainly do appreciate it.

I may come down and pick up petes roll bar myself, if that is ok, so I can meet you in person?

Hmmmm. If a cylinder has no compression & probably a bent valve is the culprit, something had to alter cam timing. Cam snout @ sprocket not broken either? Keep us posted. Best of luck to you & hope its not too bad. With the project you have planned, I doubt it's anything serious. I'm really interested in your project!!

[A26B]

ABSOLUTELY that is OK!! Give me a heads up so I can coordinate with your schedule. I have some ideas for cylinder sealing in boosted engines that I can show you.

[todesengel]

That is great. I have a couple ideas myself, and am always interested in swapping ideas lol. I am not proud, if it saves me time and money I become a huge fan :dancingABSOLUTELY that is OK!! Give me a heads up so I can coordinate with your schedule. I have some ideas for cylinder sealing in boosted engines that I can show you.

[GrayZ]

dang, Rob, if i had you're money i'd burn mine

[todesengel]

yeah, and if I had your money I would bail out the State of Illinois :cheers:dang, Rob, if i had you're money i'd burn mine

[todesengel]

I forgot to include pictures of most of the parts I am installing.

The phones are placed next to the new ecu for size comparison.

Included in the pictures are;

6.0 coils
Ecu
Wiring leads
boost controller (obviously not used in phase 1)
Wideband controller (two sensors)
2x new ait's
New CAS

Not pictured are the trigger wheel, bracket, and plug wires. (will add these pictures later)


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/chaosrob/DSC_0001.jpg

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[XfireZ51]

Have you thoughtnof simply having the stock code mofied for boost?

[todesengel]

I guess I really do not understand what you are asking?

Do you mean, stock ecm?


I want complete control over the engine, and not be at the mercy of having another chip burned everytime I modify the car.

Besides, there is nothing close to a standalone when it comes to fine tuning.

Have you thoughtnof simply having the stock code mofied for boost?

[XfireZ51]

I guess I really do not understand what you are asking?

Do you mean, stock ecm?


I want complete control over the engine, and not be at the mercy of having another chip burned everytime I modify the car.

Besides, there is nothing close to a standalone when it comes to fine tuning.

Just a thoughtbon whether you've investigated modifying the stock code? The LS coils may be an issue using stock software.
BTW, I don't agree with your statement re: fine tuning with a stand alone. Stock code, even 20 year old, is pretty sophisticated.

[todesengel]

Just a thoughtbon whether you've investigated modifying the stock code? The LS coils may be an issue using stock software.
BTW, I don't agree with your statement re: fine tuning with a stand alone. Stock code, even 20 year old, is pretty sophisticated.

Just curious how much experience you have with a sophisticated standalone to disagree with that statement? Everyone is certainly allowed their own opinion, but our ecm is far from "sophisticated" imho.

The expense of having a truly flexible ecm in our car (via socketing) would be far more than the setup that I am currently putting together, and still fall short, especially on boosted applications.

Call me a control freak, but I prefer to be able to handle all my own adjustments, and compensate for modifications made to the car on my own. Besides, standalone give you an easier to tune, start from scratch foundation that is less esoteric.

Pricey stock ignition module, gone.
Stock coils under plenum, gone
Methanol injection=controlled
Launch control=controlled

To my way of thinking it is win/win. I would love for you to point out the error of my thinking. I am always open to being proven wrong, or corrected if my thinking is in error.

[todesengel]

I want to apologize to everyone for the lack of progress on this project. I have had some life issues pop up, and have not had time to move forward. Between the shop issue, the personal issue that has popped up, and running my business, I have had no time to even turn a bolt on the vette.

Hopefully when the shop is done at my house I can move forward, but it is not looking good for anything to happen before that.

[threestar40]

I'm curious about the Haltech...Do you have a lot of experience with it?
What does it have over BS3? If it's your experience, I would completely understand that one. Have any experience with Motec? 63# seems like a lot of fuel...is -6 big enough to keep up? Are the stock rails big enough to keep up? I think your the first one in the world attempting this with an LT5. I would like to be the second...sort of.

Quite an undertaking.

Hope you get your personal stuff and your shop done soon so we can keep :happy1:

Rick =)