SHOCK to SHOCK-TIME TO ROCK!

[ROCKET.REX]

HOUDY Z-OWNERS
I just purchased a new pair of front [OEM] bilstein src shocks for my #166
1992 Z-machine. my old ones are beyond HIT! the left nut came loose+
broke the gear on the inner shaft. i tried to jb weld+ retighten the nut, but came up with 3 codes. i tried to erase these- but still have check
ride control. when installing the new units, is there a certain protocal
to follow. the factory service manual does not explain enough info to
dial in. i wish i had a tech 1 to work with, but will have to paperclip one
more time. I am looking to make the big one soon-as many others also!
the new units did not come with the stock upper+lower rubber dampers.
I hope this is not a problem. is there a certain way the stepper motors
need to be set up? I could use some good info for this project. thanks
in advance. ROCKET REX!

[rudolph schenker]

Don't know the answer,but the thread title sounds cool.:cheers:

[gbmidyear66]

You can clear the ride control error messages by shorting ALDL pins A and C (with Ignition on - car not running) for two seconds, then remove two seconds, repeat three times.

I do not believe their is a specific orientation between the actuator and the shock - I believe it synchs itself up automatically to the valving position as part of the start sequence.

I'm just going through the same shock replacement for broken gear on the rear.

[gbrtng]

I do not believe their is a specific orientation between the actuator and the shock - I believe it synchs itself up automatically to the valving position as part of the start sequence.


yup =D>

[GOLDCYLON]

Make sure your ride height on the top nut is correct before you install the actuators back on top of the shocks. DRM motorsports sells the new top rubbers if your looking for them. From my view for what Bilstein charges us for these shocks they should come with them dont you think? Hell a crappy $19.99 Monroe shock comes with them.

With the older rubber just make sure when you tighten down the top nut. To do that make sure you use a wrench in the slot provided to keep the threaded rod from turning while your tightening it down. You cant get the ride height correct unless you follow this procedure. The thread should be about 1.5 threads above the fastening nut and then stop.

If your using new new top rubber or poly tops. Leave the actuator off for a few days in order to allow the car to "Sit" for a few days. Then go back in and retighten the top down. Just a trick I learned along the way. Let the weight of the car do the compression work.