info needed re clutch refit

[richard sanderson]

Now I am getting used to my Z I have started giving it a bit of boot, and the occasional howl I get after revving high seems to be the pilot bushing slipping round. (BB advice). So I am getting a new clutch kit from a very helpful and friendly Carolina clutch, and am getting my local garage to fit it. This is a bit of a gamble, as I live in southern Spain, so they have never seen anything like it before, but they are competant mechanics and I will be there with all the info I got off the register (many thanks, everyone!) and the service manual and my own protective instincts, so I hope all will be well. I have agreed with the garage that I provide all the parts, and they do the job as indicated by me. So the big question is - what other seals or gaskets or anything else might be needed? It would be a disaster if the job could not be finished in one go, as waiting for some new part to arrive just is not on. Could I have suggestions from you all as to what else I should have on hand?
One last question - I have not ordered a new flywheel as I have no reason to believe I need one. In that case, can I replace the pilot bushing without removing the flywheel? Everything runs so smooth at the moment, and I dont want to upset things if I dont need to!
Thanks in advance for your help,
Dick Sanderson:wave:

[tccrab]

I highly recommend that you order up a set of CBeam plates from Bill Boudreau (the ZF Doc).
It will simplify the re-installation of the transmission.
Trust me.
Obviously it will be a good time to change the transmission fluid while the transmission is out of the car.
It wouldn't be bad or too expensive to have both a front and rear seal for the transmission on hand in the unlikely but possible situation where either or both are leaking.
You do not need to remove the flywheel to remove the pilot bushing, however make SURE that the mechanic is aware that the crankshaft is hollow with a seal at the end.
You MUST use a puller to remove the pilot bushing and not the old shade tree method of packing it with grease and hammering a dowel into the bush to push it out.
There are three types of pilot bushing, the original solid bush, a fluted bush, or a roller bearing type.
I'm pretty sure the general consensus is to use the fluted bushing but I can't be sure, so while you're ordering the CBeam plates & seals from Bill, be sure ask about the bushing.
There is a special glue for the CBeam, I'll have to dig a little to find out what it is.

Lots of good info here:
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1144

TomC
"Crabs

[richard sanderson]

Thanks for the info. Why will the c-beam plates help re-installing the tranny?
cheers Dick:thumbsup:

[tccrab]

Thanks for the info. Why will the c-beam plates help re-installing the tranny?
cheers Dick:thumbsup:

During assembly of a C4 Corvette the engine/transmission/rear-end was assembled as a unit and then the body of the car was dropped on top of this rolling chassis.
The bolts that hold the transmission to the CBeam go in from the bottom and there are nuts and washers located on the top of the transmission.
The fitment of the transmission and the body of car is so close that there is not enough room to squeeze your hand holding a tool to a position where you can hold onto the nuts so that you can tighten the bolts.
Bills' CBeam plates hold the nuts such that no tools are required to hold the nuts on top the transmission while tightening the bolts from below.

I'll dig around for a picture, picture being worth a thousand words...

Lots of good info here.
I wrote this when I replaced my ZF6 2 years ago.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=46359&postcount=29

TomC

[FULLPWR]

the glue for the c-beams is 3M window weld, Bill B. has it. I got some from him on mine.

[richard sanderson]

Thanks everyone for all your help. I have now ordered the clutch kit from Carolina clutch, and will get the C-beam plates and tranny seals from Bill B. I did not bother with the C-beam cement, as I figure that with the plates, the beam will be held tight anyway! Another thing that old posts have mentioned is a set of headless bolts, one longer that the others, to help when teasing the tranny back on. I would like to prepare these in advance. Can anybody give me the spec. on these?

[Dynomite]

Bills' CBeam plates hold the nuts such that no tools are required to hold the nuts on top the transmission while tightening the bolts from below.

I'll dig around for a picture, picture being worth a thousand words...

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.php?p=46359&postcount=29

TomC

TomC....:thumbsup: I just put Transmission Removal/Install (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=46359) in my catalogue (Solutions) of important posts/threads....I like pictures :mrgreen:

You need a KwikLift ;)

For C Beam Plates......ZF Doc says 40 ft-lbs (front by trans) and 60 ft-lbs (rear by differential). Actually 37 ft-lbs and 59 ft-lbs :thumbsup:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/ZFDoc.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/ZFDoc1.jpg

[A26B]

Thanks everyone for all your help. I have now ordered the clutch kit from Carolina clutch, and will get the C-beam plates and tranny seals from Bill B. I did not bother with the C-beam cement, as I figure that with the plates, the beam will be held tight anyway! Another thing that old posts have mentioned is a set of headless bolts, one longer that the others, to help when teasing the tranny back on. I would like to prepare these in advance. Can anybody give me the spec. on these?

Here you go Richard... All are the same length. Make 3.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/transalignstudtool.jpg

[richard sanderson]

Thanks everyone for your help. The new clutch is now in, and even after 128k's, the engine and gearbox are faultless. Thanks in particular should go to Bill Boudreaux for the C-beam plates, and Tom Haus of Carolina clutch.
Next stop - the shoxs. Does anyone have a good source for new FX3's?
Best wishes to all from Spain,
Richard