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TommyL
04-11-2010, 05:48 PM
I got my 90 out of storage yesterday and found a small pool of coolent under it. I filled it up (took maybe a liter) and drove around a little then home. It didn't over heat and worked very well. Today I see another small pool of coolent under the front cross member right about where the pump is, had a look with the flashlight and it has a drip every so often from the bottom of the waterpump.. looks like its leaking from the gasket?

My question's are: Where can I get a reasonably priced pump and gasket? How much work is it to change? Does anyone have detailed instruction on how to go about this?

Looks like it may take a little time to do this job and while I'm at it is there anything else I should look at?.

Thanks, Tom

TommyL
04-11-2010, 08:17 PM
Great help TY. Roughly how much time is involved in this job? I am not at all pressed for time but was wondering what to expect.

-=Jeff=-
04-11-2010, 08:35 PM
Water pump from Corvette Central is $199 and comes with a gasket too

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050f~Z5Z5Z5AATSH~ P199.00~~~~S2WR15UZDH76202225521f~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z5000 0050F

A26B
04-11-2010, 10:36 PM
Handy tip for keeping up with the WP bolts of varying lengths.

Put your new pump on the bench & as you remove a WP bolt, put it in the corresponding hole in the new pump.

When the old pump is off, put it on the bench and transfer the bolts from the new pump to the old pump.

Remove bolts from the old pump & install in corresponding hole in the new pump on engine.

GOLDCYLON
04-11-2010, 11:27 PM
Tom sometimes the bolts loosen on these and that maybe the issue. Make sure everything is tightened first. You will need to remove the Air filter housing and the air horn to expose the front end of the engine. Remove the belt and remove one bolt from the Allternator if I remember correctly. ABs tip on transfering the bolts one by one is the way I did it as well.

May want to consider replacing the hoses while you are there. Not a bad job really

scottfab
04-12-2010, 10:18 AM
There are some 18 bolts that hold that sucker in.
It's not as easy as say the old push rod 350s of old.
They had maybe 6 bolts.

If you use the old well known trick of putting the bolts into the
holes of the new pump (to keep track of them)
DON'T put one in the wrong hole. Bad result happen.
Don't ask how I know :mad:

Also spin the new pump a few times before installing.
Make sure it spins freely and without and noticeable grinding
or noise BEFORE you install.
GOOD LUCK

Scrrem
04-12-2010, 11:55 AM
When I did my water pump, I took a card board box and traced a patteren of the water pump on it and punched out bolt hole and when I removed a bolt, I placed in the appropriate hole in the box. A bit anal I know, but it works for me :mrgreen:
Rich

TommyL
04-12-2010, 01:09 PM
Tom sometimes the bolts loosen on these and that maybe the issue. Make sure everything is tightened first. You will need to remove the Air filter housing and the air horn to expose the front end of the engine. Remove the belt and remove one bolt from the Allternator if I remember correctly. ABs tip on transfering the bolts one by one is the way I did it as well.

May want to consider replacing the hoses while you are there. Not a bad job really

Daryl, I was looking at the pump this morning and it seems to be leaking more then just through the seeping hole... this leads me to think its the gasket and not the pump itself. I will change the pump and gasket as I don't want to do it twice but I'm thinking its either the gasket or loose bolts. I had this issue with the oil pan when I first purchased this car in 96 where the bolts were LOOSE...very loose, to the point of falling out. Once I tightened them the leak stopped never to return and I check them every time I change the oil. Sounds like the water pump is a common issue here. I see some recommendations with regard to sealants on the gasket? silicone or gasket material? Loc tight or antiseize on the bolts? This doesn't look like a tough job but looks time consuming.

Thanks again for the replys .. you guys have alot of helpful information when it comes to doing this kind of thing.

ralph92ZR1
04-12-2010, 04:55 PM
I had the exact issue and got Marc Haibeck pump with rebuilt impeller bearing and gasket. Very pleased and the pump is working great.
All other recommendations are right on the mark. Cost a bit more but no more worries with the OEM stuff.

TommyL
04-16-2010, 01:36 AM
OK here is what I found. I have the R&D racing camber brace installed in front of the motor hmm. So, I drained the fluid, took the brace out, removed the coolent piping and hoses, the accesory belt and the pully for the waterpump... all went well. When I got to the waterpump, I checked it for play as well looked for leakage from the weeping hole..it looked and felt like new hmmmmm. The one thing I did notice was the waterpump has alot of bolts 8 and 10 mm... some are shared bolts and the bolts were loose... I tightened them, put everything back together, (a 2 hour deal) added new coolent and ran the car. It doesnt leak... nothing! I ordered a waterpump and gasket for good keeping but you know I do believe the gasket was the cause of my leak. The bolts were loose about 1 complete turn with a wrench. I will keep an eye on this but I do believe all it needed at this point was tightening but time will tell. This car sat all winter and it is possible that given time sitting it might leak again but for now it seems ok hmmmmm odd.

GOLDCYLON
04-17-2010, 01:00 PM
Yep the aluminum expands and contracts so much and there is a lot of surface area. This is why I believe there are so many darn bolts :dontknow: