Coolant

[jrd1990zr1]

Pulled the radiator, flushed out and flushed out the garbage from between the fins. New hoses so I am wondering what should I use for coolant.

I see an older post about "Dexcool".

What is the best coolant to put back in a 1990?

Your thoughts are appreciated. :cheers:

[xlr8nflorida]

Pulled the radiator, flushed out and flushed out the garbage from between the fins. New hoses so I am wondering what should I use for coolant.

I see an older post about "Dexcool".

What is the best coolant to put back in a 1990?

Your thoughts are appreciated. :cheers:


I use NAPA, it has the silicates (says it on the bottle) and meets the 1825-M GM spec. It's green in color and inexpensive.

Your main concern is that you want ethylene glycol with silicates and it must meet 1825-M GM Spec.

GM part # 12378560 (expensive) and Original Zerex are other options.

DO NOT USE DEXCOOL WHICH CAN BE ANY COLOR BUT IT IS TYPICALLY ORANGE OR RED.

Good Luck!

[jonszr1]

i also use the napa stuff .price is right .stuff from the dealer is 26 per gallon

[1990 415]

i also use the napa stuff .price is right .stuff from the dealer is 26 per gallon

This must be a typo : 26 (dollars) per gallon?

[jonszr1]

no not a typo the last time i bought from bud eyre chev i paid 52 dollars plus tax for 2 gallons of gm 1825. so with ca. tax it came to roughly 57 dollars .it is the 100% anti freeze deal

[jonszr1]

the napa stuff was 14.95 per gallon of the same stuff.

[xlr8nflorida]

the napa stuff was 14.95 per gallon of the same stuff.

I think I paid under $10.00 for the Napa stuff.

Just FYI, NAPA has NAPA Gold Filters 40% off this month. Not sure if its my area or National

http://ecatalograck.genpt.com/flyer/skin/entrymap/entrymap_napa.asp?SkinReleaseId=7.0.2.0001

[GOLDCYLON]

The standard green stuff. Dont overthink this one. :hello:

[Dynomite]

The standard green stuff. Dont overthink this one. :hello:http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/ZEREXoriginal-1.jpg

[jrd1990zr1]

Stopped by Advance Auto on the way home. Prestone and Advance's coolant doesn't contain silicates. Peak antifreeze does. $12.50 a gallon.

The key is to get the stuff that is the old formula. Thanks for the advice everyone!!! :cheers:

[Paul Workman]

The key is to get the stuff that is the old formula.

If he hasn't already done so, I believe Marc H is preparing an article on the perils of Dexcool vs. our head gaskets. He showed me a set of gaskets that had failed after being exposed to Dex, and the erosion was unmistakable!

Anywayz...I agree...The GREEN Napa stuff = :thumbsup: and is (relatively) cheap!

P.

[scottfab]

I use NAPA, it has the silicates (says it on the bottle) and meets the 1825-M GM spec. It's green in color and inexpensive.

Your main concern is that you want ethylene glycol with silicates and it must meet 1825-M GM Spec.

GM part # 12378560 (expensive) and Original Zerex are other options.

DO NOT USE DEXCOOL WHICH CAN BE ANY COLOR BUT IT IS TYPICALLY ORANGE OR RED.

Good Luck!

FWIW, I had no problems with Dexcool. I first put it in back in 98 and followed the recommendations about flushing well and using distilled water. I put it in after losing a water pump to the gritty silicon crystals that form with the Green stuff.

[xlr8nflorida]

FWIW, I had no problems with Dexcool. I first put it in back in 98 and followed the recommendations about flushing well and using distilled water. I put it in after losing a water pump to the gritty silicon crystals that form with the Green stuff.


The engine was not designed for Dex-Cool. It was designed for 1825-M spec.

Dex Cool makes the head gaskets expand way more then the green stuff.

If you don't believe me call Marc Haibeck or Corey Henderson up and ask those engine builders. Marc has a photo that proves it.

If you want to risk expensive repairs to your LT-5 then by all means use the Dexcool.

Dexcool extends drain intervals and is a good product within itself when it is used as its designed in say a C5 Corvette.

I highly doubt that 1825-M spec coolant made you lose your water pump but even if so, I'd rather lose a $199.00 water pump (with gasket) then R/R head gasket job and/or potential engine damage all because I didn't follow the coolant specs.

Dexcools main claim to fame is "extended intervals". Who cares? It's much pricier, I'd rather change my green stuff every year especially since the LT-5 is all aluminum. It's good for everything, water pump, engine, heater core, lowers temps of engine etc.

That being said, do what you feel comfortable but a call to Marc would change your mind.

[scottfab]

The engine was not designed for Dex-Cool. It was designed for 1825-M spec.

Dex Cool makes the head gaskets expand way more then the green stuff.

If you don't believe me call Marc Haibeck or Corey Henderson up and ask those engine builders. Marc has a photo that proves it.

If you want to risk expensive repairs to your LT-5 then by all means use the Dexcool.

Dexcool extends drain intervals and is a good product within itself when it is used as its designed in say a C5 Corvette.

I highly doubt that 1825-M spec coolant made you lose your water pump but even if so, I'd rather lose a $199.00 water pump (with gasket) then R/R head gasket job and/or potential engine damage all because I didn't follow the coolant specs.

Dexcools main claim to fame is "extended intervals". Who cares? It's much pricier, I'd rather change my green stuff every year especially since the LT-5 is all aluminum. It's good for everything, water pump, engine, heater core, lowers temps of engine etc.

That being said, do what you feel comfortable but a call to Marc would change your mind.

I am aware of these opinions and the picture. And yet, I have pictures of a squeaking water pump and a decade of use of the orange stuff. I think there is some chemistry going on that no one fully understands. The question is whether to panic and replace or not. My hypothesis is that the mixture can go basic and cause an interaction with the gasket.
The sky here in the NW does not seem to be falling at this time.
In conclusion: The manufacturer has many reconmendations. The manufacture specs for my car is 10w30 non synthetic.
I choose to run fully synthetic. I used the standard 10w30 until a better solution occurred. The manufacturer exhaust was designed for my car. I choose to run Corsa exhaust.
I'd rather just change the coolant and not loose a water pump or head gasket. I'd rather keep the PH of the coolant at 7.0 and not let it go higher into the basic region. I choose to not add to the hysteria and keep an open mind until more facts are known.
PS I have seen pictures of blocks with the green stuff that developed gasket leaks and eroded the aluminum. (PH no doubt went acid)
The green stuff erodes aluminum way more that the orange stuff.

[FULLPWR]

I have been using Oreilly auto parts GREEN, but 100% coolant no water.
how much water do i need to add to be right?
how do you test the coolant to determine the ph or whatever its suppose to be?
I changed the water pump in 2006 just to get a new one in there and have had no issues with leaks, but could the 100% coolant maybe be why i'm slighty running over normal temp?

[xlr8nflorida]

Coolants are mostly glycol, and too much glycol can damage gaskets. Pure glycol freezes before a glycol/water mix does, so it provides less cold-weather protection. Also, glycol isn't as effective as water at removing heat from the engine so yes that could be why you are running alittle hotter then normal. Also check your radiator for debris etc. Antifreeze should really be changed maximum every 2 years, I try to do mine every year in all my cars.

You should run 50/50 of coolant/distilled water. You need to verify but I believe the Coolant is 16.7 quarts capacity so you would have to remove and add accordingly. I'm pretty particular though and the LT-5 can get "air pockets" plus I like to know I have as close to a 50/50 mix as possible therefore, I'd probably drain it and redo it. It will cost you $30. Just remember you are not going get all of the coolant out so that needs to be taken into consideration when you add the distilled water.

Antifreeze test strips are a fast and accurate method of checking your antifreeze. Test strips measure the concentration of antifreeze coolant inhibitors in cooling systems using either conventional coolants. Regular testing of antifreeze coolant minimizes vehicle downtime and associated costs. Test strips are the only way to determine the exact depletion rate numbers of your antifreeze.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21VXX3N0JRL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
Also test the coolant with a coolant hydrometer available at any auto parts store. This inexpensive device measures the specific gravity of the coolant. It does not, however, tell you anything of the corrosion protection capabilities remaining in the coolant. Simply insert the tip of the hydrometer into the antifreeze and pull some into the chamber, enough that the float lifts free. The reading tells you the freeze protection.

http://www.cartechbooks.com/cartech//car_care_xtra/Image8_SB2_1.jpg

[scottfab]

I have been using Oreilly auto parts GREEN, but 100% coolant no water.
how much water do i need to add to be right?
how do you test the coolant to determine the ph or whatever its suppose to be?
I changed the water pump in 2006 just to get a new one in there and have had no issues with leaks, but could the 100% coolant maybe be why i'm slighty running over normal temp?

50/50 is a safe bet as was mentioned but.......... depending on your location and if you drive a lot in freezing weather you might be better off with more water than coolant because water is better at getting rid of the heat. I use a 20/80 mixture (coolant/water) but then I don't drive in snow storms or leave the car out in the rare cases that it would even reach 32deg where I live.

[xlr8nflorida]

You need a minimum of 30% to get corrosion protection, maximum of 68% to get maximum freeze protection (green stuff). After 68% the freeze protection goes DOWN. 50/50 is an easy number, that is why it is the most commonly sold or recommended. Also, the stronger the mix, the better corrosion protection.

As far as heat transfer goes, water is much better at it than glycol. The specific heat # for water is 4.183kJ/kgdegreeCelcius and glycol is 2.67kJ/kgdegreeCelcius. Meaning that for every kg of fluid to rise or drop 1 celcius degree in temperature, the stated quantity of heat will be transfered.
To figure out the specific heat of any mixture, just throw the numbers into an equation by proportion.
ie .50(4.183)+.50(2.67)=3.4265kJ/kgdegreeCelcius
This is for a 50/50 mix.

The constituents in the jug of anti-freeze provide corrosion control,scaling control, freeze protection, pump lubrication etc. The strength you decide to use depends alot on the climate you live in and what service you put your vehicle into.

Not sure why you would go with the mix you are going with. I have run 50/50 in very hot states and never even came close to an issue. If you have a temperature problem, then you have other issues, fans, radiator debris, old coolant, thermostat, etc.

In regards to manuf. specs, by you using the oil example or a corsa exhaust, it is a joke and not a valid argument. Using the wrong type of coolant is a real issue. In regards to the green stuff being corrosive, it won't be if you change it on a regular basis.

It's your car though so obviously we all have our opinions and likes/dislikes. For the poster who needs information. The Majority of people believe 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled water and not to use Dexcool. If you want to buck the trend and be different then use the Dexcool and mix it a crazy ratio like 69/31.

[scottfab]

You need a minimum of 30% to get corrosion protection, maximum of 68% to get maximum freeze protection (green stuff). After 68% the freeze protection goes DOWN. 50/50 is an easy number, that is why it is the most commonly sold or recommended. Also, the stronger the mix, the better corrosion protection.

As far as heat transfer goes, water is much better at it than glycol. The specific heat # for water is 4.183kJ/kgdegreeCelcius and glycol is 2.67kJ/kgdegreeCelcius. Meaning that for every kg of fluid to rise or drop 1 celcius degree in temperature, the stated quantity of heat will be transfered.
To figure out the specific heat of any mixture, just throw the numbers into an equation by proportion.
ie .50(4.183)+.50(2.67)=3.4265kJ/kgdegreeCelcius
This is for a 50/50 mix.

The constituents in the jug of anti-freeze provide corrosion control,scaling control, freeze protection, pump lubrication etc. The strength you decide to use depends alot on the climate you live in and what service you put your vehicle into.

Not sure why you would go with the mix you are going with. I have run 50/50 in very hot states and never even came close to an issue. If you have a temperature problem, then you have other issues, fans, radiator debris, old coolant, thermostat, etc.

In regards to manuf. specs, by you using the oil example or a corsa exhaust, it is a joke and not a valid argument. Using the wrong type of coolant is a real issue. In regards to the green stuff being corrosive, it won't be if you change it on a regular basis.

It's your car though so obviously we all have our opinions and likes/dislikes. For the poster who needs information. The Majority of people believe 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled water and not to use Dexcool. If you want to buck the trend and be different then use the Dexcool and mix it a crazy ratio like 69/31.

You get plenty of corrosion protection with a Prestone additive/water pump lube (which I add). The joke really is saying "the sky is falling" instead of keeping an open mind. There are still facts to be discovered and quoting some bizarre equations that you looked up does not change that. They do however agree with using more water than coolant.
I agree 50/50 is easy for you to remember and maybe the best for the masses. BTW here is a site that helps calculate the Atomic Mass.
Not very useful but I thought I'd throw it out there.
As far as "temperature problem" goes. I'm not sure how long you've had your car but most of us know that with a stock car and stuck in traffic for an extended period at 90deg you'll run hot. Hope that helps you understand. And there are a lot of cars out there with aftermarket radiators (not manufacture recommended)
I'm glad I have your permission to use what ever mixture I want... oh boy I feel better now.
As far as "buck the trend" I am sorry that upsets you. You can be sure you are in the majority. I suspect most cars don't have a Lingenfelter engine either but I'd sure like one.
My point on Corsa exhaust may have gone past you. The point is not all of the manufacturer recommendations are followed nor need to be.
Some cars vary and you can buck that trend if you want.

Finally if you're worried about corrosion, change the mixture more often.
Maybe every 6mo.
One thing I think remains unknown. Does using Dexcool with regular changing eliminate the head gasket issue? I have no vested interest in Dexcool but I do believe in scientific method.

[xlr8nflorida]

You get plenty of corrosion protection with a Prestone additive/water pump lube (which I add).

But you didn't tell the poster that fact in your original post and if he followed your advice, he wouldn't have added a bottle which would be bad for his LT-5.

There is evidence to suggest Dexcool is bad. There are tons of lawsuits. Some say its mixing the two types, some say air pockets, some say it eats the gasket. Bottom line, there are no problems with the green stuff. You want to be a risk taker or an "open minded" person as you call it then that is your choice. However, the member should be informed of specific risks.
It's not bizarre equations, actually they are very useful.

Where is the site on the Atomic Mass? :dontknow:

I've had my ZR-1 for 10 years. Never had a problem with overheating. I had my tune changed in the last few years and while mods were being made, both fans now trigger at 205.

An aftermarket radiator is fine. You seem to think I feel you always have to follow the manufacturers recommendation which is not the case.

Bucking the trend is fine but giving people accurate information is also important. By suggesting you use Dexcool and at the ratio you suggest, I don't think its good advice. You have your opinion and I have mine, now the member can do their own research and make an educated decision.

Your corsa exhaust didn't go past me and I don't have a stock exhaust either. Once again, comparing a vital lubricant to a Corsa exhaust, radiator etc is irrelevant and a silly argument.

Why use Dexcool and change it regularly? It's more expensive and its whole claim to fame is extended drain intervals.

If you have regular drain intervals why not go with the inexpensive approved green stuff which carries no risk.

I'm glad you feel special and I'm sure you feel I'm being a smart ***. In reality, by making that comment I'm saying to each their own.

However, I always try to provide accurate information to other members. I just don't see any upsides to your using Dexcool and I see downside.

[FULLPWR]

BINGO !! too much coolant no water, i thought i was being slick with all coolant....thanks

i've seen that auto parts checker way back but never imagined i would need it, im getting senile.....I'm getting the test strips and coolant checker today and some distilled water. I had ck'd for debris and removed some paper and leaves.. just need to put that screen in like tom showed me.
houston in summer stays hot as hell so i just worried if its slightly over now it will be even worse in dead summer.

appreciate the info... real informative learned something again.:thumbsup:

[scottfab]

But you didn't tell the poster that fact in your original post and if he followed your advice, he wouldn't have added a bottle which would be bad for his LT-5.

There is evidence to suggest Dexcool is bad. There are tons of lawsuits. Some say its mixing the two types, some say air pockets, some say it eats the gasket. Bottom line, there are no problems with the green stuff. You want to be a risk taker or an "open minded" person as you call it then that is your choice. However, the member should be informed of specific risks.
It's not bizarre equations, actually they are very useful.

Where is the site on the Atomic Mass? :dontknow:

I've had my ZR-1 for 10 years. Never had a problem with overheating. I had my tune changed in the last few years and while mods were being made, both fans now trigger at 205.

An aftermarket radiator is fine. You seem to think I feel you always have to follow the manufacturers recommendation which is not the case.

Bucking the trend is fine but giving people accurate information is also important. By suggesting you use Dexcool and at the ratio you suggest, I don't think its good advice. You have your opinion and I have mine, now the member can do their own research and make an educated decision.

Your corsa exhaust didn't go past me and I don't have a stock exhaust either. Once again, comparing a vital lubricant to a Corsa exhaust, radiator etc is irrelevant and a silly argument.

Why use Dexcool and change it regularly? It's more expensive and its whole claim to fame is extended drain intervals.

If you have regular drain intervals why not go with the inexpensive approved green stuff which carries no risk.

I'm glad you feel special and I'm sure you feel I'm being a smart ***. In reality, by making that comment I'm saying to each their own.

However, I always try to provide accurate information to other members. I just don't see any upsides to your using Dexcool and I see downside.

I am glad you try to provide accurate information.
Your posts are confusing. By not correctly quoting what I typed you're creating confusion for the reader.
And how many exactly is "a ton of lawsuits"? Is that accurate?

There is evidence to suggest that silica crystals are bad for the water pump. (Green stuff)
Changing often is the key with both coolants but worth it. The expensive Dexcool is a silly argument. Only if you buy it at a department store is it more expensive. And only if you mix it at the unnecessary 50/50.
I'm not even suggesting to use Dexcool. I just resent the hysteria being promoted. The sky is not falling. The suites I am aware of relate to contamination and organic growth. The mixture suggested may be the key.
Also I am suggesting that not all manufacturer recommendations are still the best for our cars. You seem to agree with that.
Yes, you have your opinion. That is obvious. By suggesting 50/50 and the green stuff I think is narrow and not open to better solutions.
I use 20/80 with a water pump lube because I don't live in Alaska.
Using non manufacturing exhaust as you do makes the point that just because it is "spec" does not make it automatically the best argument.
But I think you saw that already.
OK, I am done. If you feel the need to have the last word. Be my guest.
Oh, and the adding the screen to protect the radiator that was mentioned
can be found at:
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_radiatorscreen.htm
and the link to Atomic Mass that was missing is at:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4516596_calculate-atomic-mass.html
it was inaccurate to omit it.