Further Block Tear Down (no pictures)

[Jeffvette]

Alright, a lot was learned on the last tear down and rebuild segment. So let?s go further into the motor!

Car is a 94, car had a blown head gasket as well (getting to be a common thing) and is now in the process of being stroked :D So this is the steps to completely strip down the block. This is starting out as a short block assembly, so most of the work is already done.

Let's start by removing the timing gear assembly. Remove the tensioner via the two 8mm bolts. The only thing holding it in place, is the tension from the bolts.

Next, undo the three 10mm bolts at the center section of the drive assembly. The sprocket will be stuck to the block, so some wiggling will break it free.After you get the drive sprocket loose, tilt it down and pull it forward a bit and remove the primary chain.

After the primary chain is removed, you can now reach back and pull the driver and passenger secondary chains off and place the sprocket down. Make sure you label which chain is which.

Now remove the batwings for the chain guides. These are held in at the pivot point with a 10mm bolt. Looks pretty barren!

Now rotate the block over and remove the pan. See other thread for more details. This motor has been fairly neglected from prior owners.

[Jeffvette]

Remove the pick up tube, it?s held down by two 8mm bolts

Remove the windage tray, there are four 8mm bolts holding it down.

Now back to the front to remove the crank sprocket assembly with the correct puller. It will slide off fairly easily. Make notice on which way the sprocket sits.

After the sprocket is off, remove the two keys to allow the oil pump seat to be removed. It should slide right off. Now remove the three 10mm bolts that hold the oil pump on. The oil pump assembly will slide off. Grab the seal/o-ring (93-95 block only) for the suction tube.

[Jeffvette]

Now we are getting down to business. Time for the piston assemblies to comes out. Rotate the block over. Have your crank pulley in hand and install it so you can rotate the motor over. Pick a place to start, doesn?t really matter where. The rod bolts are a twelve point head, undo the rod bolts a bit, and then tap the piston to separate the rod cap. After the cap is free you can rotate the motor to push the piston assembly down, then with a rod, finish taping it out and catch it. Keep going down the line till all are removed.

After all the pistons are removed, relocate your engine stand mounts to completely hold the upper portion of the block. So you can separate the lower portion. Don?t forget to remove the rear seal housing cover, which is held on by T30 bolts.

Now the lower portion of the block is held together by several 10mm bolts (exterior wall) as well as 13mm bolts (main cap). Slowly work your way around the block removing all the bolts.

After they are all up, take a rubber mallet and whack the lower section of the block on all 4 sides to help break it free from the sealant. After it is loose, gently pick it up making sure all bolts are free. Pick up and place the lower section down, and the crank is now ready to be removed.

[Polo-1]

enough of the old oily stock crap....
show us the eye candy... ti rods, bryant crank......

[Jeffvette]

enough of the old oily stock crap....
show us the eye candy... ti rods, bryant crank......


:handshak:

[Scrrem]

Awsome!!!!! Really great stuff :thumbsup: Love the detailed pics!! Keep'm coming!!
Rich

[tomtom72]

Thank You Obi Wan and may the Force be with you!:worship:



:notworthy:mrgreen:

[GOLDCYLON]

Does anybody else find these photos sexy ? :mrgreen:

[tccrab]

Looking good!

How big is this one going?
385, 415, 427?

Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and knowledge.
Most of us would NEVER get this far into the LT5.
Plenum pull, sure, what the heck, it ain't rocket surgery.
Bottom end tear down? Not on your life.

TomC
'Crabs

[Jeffvette]

Looking good!

How big is this one going?
385, 415, 427?


In the 4's.

[Jagdpanzer]

Thanks for posting this up.
Will soon be putting your good advise to practice.