I am ready!

[secondchance]

Well, getting ready for the next batch of maintenance here is a list of parts on hand:

1. Apair of AC-Delco rear bearing hubs (says Made in USA) from corvetterecycling.com - Thank you Phil!
2. Oil pan gasket from Jerry's Gasket.
3. A set of bushings for rear sawy bar - non-poly, looks factory but not sure.
4. Factory front and rear emblems - ones I have on the car was buffed over and especially the rear bottom circle was rounded.
5. Searching for front and rear seal for ZF6. Sent an e-mail to Bill Boudreau - Talking with Rich so that we can order in together.

Additional parts needed for later this year:

6. Clutch - we will have to discuss options, Rich.
7. Targa weather strips.
8. Window regulator, driver side - current one is getting a little lazy. Also, the way window leans easily when pulled front/rear seems to suggest track/wheels may be worn out.
9. Outside door/window edge trim - I figure since driver side is cracked, might as well replace when replacing the regulator.

Will it ever end???

Jim. Are your listening???
Any advise for parts or helpful tips for servicing is welcome.

Almost forgot!

Also ordered radio trim plate from Florida for $274 to make it look factory new. Pricey but I don't see the price coming down and a year from now, I may never find a new piece. So I bit the bullit on this one.
And 2 2ndary actuators since mine was installed backwards from the factory. After removal, old one goes into WAZOO parts list.

[limey]

Byong,

we have the front and rear seals in stock, but it's better to buy the whole seal and gasket kit, it's better value for money.

http://www.whiteracingproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_34&products_id=1257

$69.99 your price.

[secondchance]

Byong,

we have the front and rear seals in stock, but it's better to buy the whole seal and gasket kit, it's better value for money.

http://www.whiteracingproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_34&products_id=1257

$69.99 your price.

Thanks for chimimg in. I will give it a serious thought. I won't be tearing into it for 2-3 months.
Since I got you here, did you get my order for the radio trim?

[limey]

Yep, ships tomorrow.

[Scrrem]

5. Searching for front and rear seal for ZF6. Sent an e-mail to Bill Boudreau - Talking with Rich so that we can order in together.

6. Clutch - we will have to discuss options, Rich.

9. Outside door/window edge trim - I figure since driver side is cracked, might as well replace when replacing the regulator.


5. Already talked to you about these.
6. You know what I ordered, you can see how it installs in a few weeks at WMD.
9. Let me know when you order, I need these too.

Rich

[ZZZZZR1]

wow you have a "honey do list" don't you!


Sounds great! Let the LT5 teardown begin.


:cheers:


David

[Aurora40]

My tips, the pan gasket is pretty easy, just remove the K members, and be sure to clean out the bolt holes well (they will probably be oily).

The outside window trim/weatherstrip: Be careful when drilling the rivets out. It's very easy to go too far (ask me how I know that).

[secondchance]

My tips, the pan gasket is pretty easy, just remove the K members, and be sure to clean out the bolt holes well (they will probably be oily).

The outside window trim/weatherstrip: Be careful when drilling the rivets out. It's very easy to go too far (ask me how I know that).

Oh, s**t! No, you didn't! I heard of it happening.
As for the oil pan, I am thinking a dab of loctite. Do you think?

David,
Those are not "honey do" list. More like "honey, why the hell do you need these?" list.

[Aurora40]

Even with loctite, you should still clean out the holes. They will likely be quite oily. I sprayed some brake cleaner in each one a couple times, then blew them out.

On the weatherstripping, yes I did. It wasn't on the ZR-1, but an '87 I owned previously.

[secondchance]

Even with loctite, you should still clean out the holes. They will likely be quite oily. I sprayed some brake cleaner in each one a couple times, then blew them out.

On the weatherstripping, yes I did. It wasn't on the ZR-1, but an '87 I owned previously.

Thanks.
Yes. I will definately clean out the thread holes and all bolts real good. Plus a dab of loctite to be sure.
Did you use any sealant on the gasket? Both sides?

[Aurora40]

I did not use anything on the gasket. Though in retrospect some gasket adhesive or something would have made it a lot easier. Without help, it's tricky to lift the pan, keep it flush, and not knock the gasket off, all while threading in a couple bolts.

[Jeffvette]

The outside window trim/weatherstrip: Be careful when drilling the rivets out. It's very easy to go too far (ask me how I know that).

Use a piece of rubber hose over the drill bit to keep yourself from going to far in and hitting the door panel. Or a metal collar.

Make sure you have a pop rivet gun to replace them after installing the new weatherstrip. Also take your time, if you bend them you will never ever get them straight again.

[secondchance]

Use a piece of rubber hose over the drill bit to keep yourself from going to far in and hitting the door panel. Or a metal collar.

Make sure you have a pop rivet gun to replace them after installing the new weatherstrip. Also take your time, if you bend them you will never ever get them straight again.

Cool tip! Thanks.

[tomtom72]

just another fwiw suggestion on keeping the pan gasket from sliding around.

I bought this tube of gasket rtv by permatex. The stuff is like a big lipstick tube and it is handy for tracing the gasket with sealer so you can stick the gasket to a surface. It's non-hardening and it even allows the parts to come apart easily without ruining the gasket material....most of the time. I used it when i did my plenum pull to hold the gaskets in place while I put the I/H's on the head and the plenum on the I/H's. It worked great with only about 10 mins of set up time the gaskets didn't move much at all, and when I did miss I could slide the gasket sideways without any trouble at all. A thin film, almost transparent, did the trick I found.

I was thinking about using dielectric till I saw this at the permatex display along with all the thread-locking liquids and the standard rtv's toothpaste tubes. I got it at the local auto zone store, but my guess would be any auto parts store has the same display.

:cheers:
Tom

[Dynomite]

just another fwiw suggestion on keeping the pan gasket from sliding around.

I bought this tube of gasket rtv by permatex. A thin film, almost transparent, did the trick I found.
:cheers:
Tom

I use a bit (small bit) of Permatex Super "300" Form A Gasket on both sides of the oil pan gasket where oil is involved (making sure all surfaces are dry before using the Permatex) ;)

Jerry's pan gasket for the 90'-92' requires a new "O" ring which is the same diameter but thicker for the oil pick up. Just make sure you keep that "O" ring in place as you position the oil pan with new gasket.

I use Blue Loctite on ALL Oil Pan Bolts.

[secondchance]

Thanks guys. I will use some Permatex.

[Jeffvette]

;)

Jerry's pan gasket is a bit thicker than stock and he supplies a new "O" ring which is the same diameter but thicker for the oil pick up (91' Z) to accomodate the thicker pan gasket. Just make sure you keep that "O" ring in place as you position the oil pan with new gasket if it is the same as a 91' Z :cheers:


He has a later motor, which has no pick up tube O-ring. You haven't been paying attention on my tear downs ;)

[Dynomite]

He has a later motor, which has no pick up tube O-ring. You haven't been paying attention on my tear downs ;)

Sorry....yes I have been paying attention (matter of fact.....copying to my hard drive inserting into WORD documents) to your tear downs as well as your assemblies and that is why I mentioned mine was a 91' Z.....I just was not paying attention to what year Z secondchance had :mrgreen:

Too much attention to Corvette Babes and Avatars and not enough attention to Z mechanics :sign10:

When I get all your advice and tear downs documented into WORD documents (including a search of the archives for your great advice) I will sell that information as Z Supplemental manuals on Ebay :mrgreen:

[A26B]

Jerry's pan gasket is a bit thicker than stock and he supplies a new "O" ring which is the same diameter but thicker for the oil pick up (91' Z) to accomodate the thicker pan gasket. Just make sure you keep that "O" ring in place as you position the oil pan with new gasket if it is the same as a 91' Z :cheers:

Actually, my pan gasket is not thicker than the OEM, stock gasket. The o-ring by design does have a larger cross section, i.e. thicker. The gasket probably feels thicker because it is uncompressed, has much higher tensil strength and is wider to take advantage of more mating surface area that is present on the block & pan. All of these modifications make the gasket stronger and improves the seal. "Compressed" gasket thickness (when installed) is virtually identical to the OEM gasket.

The OEM o-ring when used with the OEM pan gasket or mine, is only compressed 3~4%, whereas design standards for o-rings of this size & used in flange seal applications is significantly higher at 20~30%.

Here's a drawing to show the application details. Post any questions you have & I'll do my best to answer. BTW, the drawing shows the o-ring groove to be in the pan, whereas it is actually in the oil pickup tube, which is at the same level as the oil pan.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z224/A26B/SealDesign10106189.jpg

[Dynomite]

Actually, my pan gasket is not thicker than the OEM, stock gasket. The o-ring by design does have a larger cross section, i.e. thicker. The gasket probably feels thicker because it is uncompressed, has much higher tensil strength and is wider to take advantage of more mating surface area that is present on the block & pan. All of these modifications make the gasket stronger and improves the seal. "Compressed" gasket thickness (when installed) is virtually identical to the OEM gasket.

The OEM o-ring when used with the OEM pan gasket or mine, is only compressed 3~4%, whereas design standards for o-rings of this size & used in flange seal applications is significantly higher at 20~30%.



I stand corrected...but that gasket and "O" ring I installed (91' Z) sure looked thicker than my stock gasket and "O" ring :mrgreen: I remember thinking..... "WOW now this is a GASKET"......and...... "an upgraded "O" ring"......I am NOT going to take it apart again to check.

I measured an OEM used gasket after removal and found .047 which is exacltly what Jerry suggested for an uncompressed OEM gasket.

This is the second time in this thread I have been appropriately corrected ;)

I am going back to the Corvette Babes section and resign myself to commenting on Avatars from now on :cheers:

Say......after visiting the Corvette Babes section, studying Jeff's Avatar again and doing some more thinking........are you saying that your "O" ring (oil pickup for 91' Z) is thicker than OEM with greater compression and resulting greater sealing?

If so....my perception is not completely off the mark and I prolly will take back my statement regarding my commenting on Corvette Babes and Avatars only :sign10:

[A26B]

Say......after visiting the Corvette Babes section, studying Jeff's Avatar again and doing some more thinking........are you saying that your "O" ring (oil pickup for 91' Z) is thicker than OEM with greater compression and resulting greater sealing?

Yes it is. Note in the drawing that the o-ring I specify, has a cross-section (thickness) of 0.157" and the OEM o-ring is 0.117". You are absolutely correct that the result is "greater compression" ( I prefer to call it proper compression) but the results would be increased differential pressure sealing capability. The stack height of the o-ring groove depth plus the compressed gasket thickness is only 0.004" less than the OEM o-ring cross section (thickness), putting only 0.004" compression on the o-ring, the same amount as an ordinary sheet of copy paper is thick.

[secondchance]

On the new secondary actuators (canisters), I took both of them to a grinding wheel and relieved the shaft on the top a bit where the shaft goes into the canister. When I installed them correctly, one of the shafts actually touched the top edge of the hole in the canister before I relieved the shaft.

A little tough to understand exactly. I am sure once installed and I create vacuum w/ a hand held, if there are any binding or interferences I will see it for sure.

Thanks for the heads up.

[Dynomite]

A little tough to understand exactly. I am sure once installed and I create vacuum w/ a hand held, if there are any binding or interferences I will see it for sure.

Thanks for the heads up.

Here is a picture of a new canister and just above the "749" I ground a bit on the shaft (about an inch long where I ground). The shaft moves side to side and up and down a bit as the red rubber bellows sucks the shaft into the canister. On one of my canisters the shaft (just above the "749") actually touched the top edge of the 3/4 inch diameter hole in the canister as the shaft was sucked into the canister. I relieved both canisters the same way as both canisters had the same issue.

The picture was taken after I ground the top edge of the shaft so as you can see, it does not take much grinding to get clearance required. I was thinking of grinding from left to right on the top edge of the shaft all the way to the first hole eliminating the step down on the shaft just after the first hole but that is not necessary. It could be either top edge, bottom edge or both top and bottom edges of the shaft you might grind depending where you need more clearance.

I would install the canisters the correct way and then apply a vacuum to each and watch them as the shaft is sucked into the canister to make sure there are no issues. I actually have an extra vacuum pump I hot wired and connected to each canister but you can run a long rubber vacuum line (you can buy vacuum line by the 4-6 ft length very cheap from any auto parts store - get correct inside diameter) from your existing vacuum pump to each canister and hot wire your existing vacuum pump to get the same vacuum.

Correct installation would be for this canister installed on the passenger side with the "749" up right as you see it. Or for those in the mid west.......North side of Z with Z facing West :mrgreen:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/Canister.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/Solenoid-1.jpg

[secondchance]

Here is a picture of a new canister and just above the "749" I ground a bit on the shaft (about an inch long where I ground). The shaft moves side to side and up and down a bit as the red rubber bellows sucks the shaft into the canister. On one of my canisters the shaft (just above the "749") actually touched the top edge of the 3/4 inch diameter hole in the canister as the shaft was sucked into the canister. I relieved both canisters the same way as both canisters had the same issue.

The picture was taken after I ground the top edge of the shaft so as you can see, it does not take much grinding to get clearance required. I was thinking of grinding from left to right on the top edge of the shaft all the way to the first hole eliminating the step down on the shaft just after the first hole but that is not necessary. It could be either top edge, bottom edge or both top and bottom edges of the shaft you might grind depending where you need more clearance.

I would install the canisters the correct way and then apply a vacuum to each and watch them as the shaft is sucked into the canister to make sure there are no issues. I actually have an extra vacuum pump I hot wired and connected to each canister but you can run a long rubber vacuum line (you can buy vacuum line by the 4-6 ft length very cheap from any auto parts store - get correct inside diameter) from your existing vacuum pump to each canister and hot wire your existing vacuum pump to get the same vacuum.

Correct installation would be for this canister installed on the passenger side with the "749" up right as you see it. Or for those in the mid west.......North side of Z with Z facing West :mrgreen:

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/Canister.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/ZR1/Solenoid-1.jpg

Understood 100%.
Thank you for such detailed information.