CHASSIS ROT and other stuff

[xxxscimitarxxx]

Hi to All

just want to thank all who contributed to my 92 SES light and the hose at the of the plenum which turned out to be the prob.....what would l do without you guys

todays griefs are as follows

1)
as per pic where can l get this cross member section or is it a 'fix it however you can' solution with whatever metal can be welded in

2)
if lm driving normally i dont have any check lights coming up.....but if l give it some right foot the service ABS and service ACR come on simultaneously........when l switch of and start again its a clear light board until l stamp on it again

why is this only associated with heavy driving :dontknow: and whats my prob

3)
the door switch that operates the security 'lock and leave' system doesnt operate either side.....do they work independantly or are they linked....and is it likely to be the solenoid in the door

[tomtom72]

The rear cross member does not have a part number listing on my parts CD. It's listed as "no stock".

I would guess that some grinding and welding of plates to rebox it is in order? I would also guess that it is welded at it's ends so that should make removing it to work on it such fun.

I have a 90 so I don't have ASR. I would make the lights come on and then pull the codes so you would have a starting place. Or you could ask the CCM, as it is supposed to store "H" ( History ) codes.

The lock thing I have no idea. Sorry.:redface:

:cheers:
Tom

[xxxscimitarxxx]

Thanks so far ....

I was guessing that cross member didnt have a replacement part even though its quite a formed section with punched holes and shaped ends

so guessing a weld up job will suffice

as for codes l dont have a scanner here.....really do need to buy one....any reccomendations?

as for door locking mech.....my 90 has...but without the shop manual l cant recall the official name for it but its the switch near the manual slider bar lock in the door panel

[tomtom72]

What I use in place of my scanner sometimes is the "jumper kit from Gordon Killabrew. The kit has made up jumpers that are inserted into the ALDL and you get a quick code read out. The kit comes with a jumper for the ECM, ABS, CCM for history codes, FX3, etc. Or you could just jumper the needed pins with the paper clip on the ALDL. I keep it in my car. If it throws a code I use the specific jumper to see what's up without having to get down to see what I'm jumping if I used a paper clip.

Okay, yes the power door lock switch in front of the manual slider. The switches are slaved to each other. Check the fuse first? Then the actuator (solenoid) in the door? I don't have my 90 FSM handy, sorry.

:cheers:
Tom

[xxxscimitarxxx]

Thanks......

re door locks....all my bayonet fuses in the box on the passenger side are good (or is it one of the larger cans)

re codes....I have read about the paperclip method but would like to buy a reccomended cheap scanner that will pop up the codes on a display.....plus the fact that using a clip means lm on my hands and knees twisting like a python to get the damn thing in and groping in the dark flipping my glasses on and off to see what the hell lm doing

but its also odd that both the ASR and ABS service lights come on together when l give it some spirited right foot and not when casually driving....then l turn off....turn on again ....and they are gone till the next time

do any of these check lights cause my secondaries to shut down.....doesnt fel like it does

[tomtom72]

Yes, I am not inclined to want to lay down to use the paper clip method. That is why I bought the jumper kit from Gordon. I can check for codes while sitting in the driver's seat with his kit.

http://www.gordonkillebrew.com/

The diagnostics for the door locks is in section 8A, the electrical book.

[Jeffvette]

1)
as per pic where can l get this cross member section or is it a 'fix it however you can' solution with whatever metal can be welded in

Cut the piece out and weld a new one in.

2)
if lm driving normally i dont have any check lights coming up.....but if l give it some right foot the service ABS and service ACR come on simultaneously........when l switch of and start again its a clear light board until l stamp on it again

why is this only associated with heavy driving :dontknow: and whats my prob



Check your brake fluid level. Can't remember if the 92 went to a single reservoir, but that will cause your problem under hard acceleration.


3)
the door switch that operates the security 'lock and leave' system doesnt operate either side.....do they work independantly or are they linked....and is it likely to be the solenoid in the door


"Lock and Leave" do you have an aftermarket alarm system in the car?

[xxxscimitarxxx]

re abs check light ...absolutely right....check fluids....duh :iamwithst...will do in morning

re the lock and leave....no aftermarket fitted

re the cut out and weld in a new one....seems from previous help that there isnt a replacement part so seems l will have to weld in a box of some sort

having a big day tomoz with my son on a few bits and pieces so will advise

[Jeffvette]

re the lock and leave....no aftermarket fitted


Can you go into some more detail on this?

[xxxscimitarxxx]

my lock and leave switch in front of the manual slide lock bar in the door panel doesnt work on either door.......

l now know they are electrically linked......have been told there is a fuse that works them but cant find a dud.....and dont know at present if the solenoids are to blame.

and was told that sometimes an aftermarket alarm system might disable them.....but no aftermarket alarm is fitted

[tomtom72]

my lock and leave switch in front of the manual slide lock bar in the door panel doesnt work on either door.......

Jeff,

Translation from British to American:

"Lock & leave switch" = hit the power lock switch & close the door & leave the car.
:o

[Z51JEFF]

Damn thats ugly.As these cars age its going to be interesting to see what type of rust issues pop up.I know the windshield frame can rust out.

[phrogs]

re the cut out and weld in a new one....seems from previous help that there isnt a replacement part so seems l will have to weld in a box of some sort

having a big day tomoz with my son on a few bits and pieces so will advise



The metal will have to be cut out and new welded in its nothing that a good shop couldnt handle but without removing the fiberglass in the rear compartment you cant get to the top of that crossmember.

The could possible cut it out repair then reweld back in.

[phrogs]

Damn thats ugly.As these cars age its going to be interesting to see what type of rust issues pop up.I know the windshield frame can rust out.


I havent seen tomany C-4s with windshield frame rot, but C-3s and C-2s on the other hand have plenty of it I know my 68 has windshield frame issues.

[Jeffvette]

Jeff,

Translation from British to American:

"Lock & leave switch" = hit the power lock switch & close the door & leave the car.
:o


Ok, now that I know what he is talking about, there is a 15 amp fuse in the aux fuse panel underneath the passenger side hush panel. Check that first. Other than that, you need to start following the diag tree in the FSM.

[xxxscimitarxxx]

Ok, now that I know what he is talking about, there is a 15 amp fuse in the aux fuse panel underneath the passenger side hush panel. Check that first. Other than that, you need to start following the diag tree in the FSM.

ive pulled em all....they all good....so beginning to sound like the servo/switch/wiring

as for my rot.......yes it horrible and must have been like that when l got it 18 months ago....but it took a hammer to reveal the real state of it

going to just patch the flat surface on the bottom of it, drill it everywhere and make sure it stays drained, and paint it.......oh well she never was a trailer queen so l dont mind a less glamorous few patches here and there

[tomtom72]

Ok, now that I know what he is talking about, there is a 15 amp fuse in the aux fuse panel underneath the passenger side hush panel. Check that first. Other than that, you need to start following the diag tree in the FSM.

It took me a while to "get it". Nice to know that there is a location for another fuse in that bunch under the CDM box!

Jeff, would you mind looking over the results of my scan of another member's car to see if I'm on the right diagnostic track?

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10242&page=3

Thanks a bunch!:worship:

Tom:redface:

[xxxscimitarxxx]

Ahhhhhhh.....l see (or think l do)

another fuse location .....not the side glove fuse box.....'under the kick panel'......will check

many thanks

[GOLDCYLON]

Jeff are you refering to the auxillary fuse box under the passenger side kick panel? If so there are one block of fuses for the MY 90 and Two blocks for the 91-95. They are a bear to get to.

[Z51JEFF]

I havent seen tomany C-4s with windshield frame rot, but C-3s and C-2s on the other hand have plenty of it I know my 68 has windshield frame issues.

Years ago I replaced the windshield in an 84 I used to own.Whats scary about this is I live in Ca,this car has been in Ca since new and I bought it in 1987.Now this isnt serious rust but it was there.Given the chance it would have rusted out.Another odd thing about this car,the WS had a rubber gasket that had a thread in it.http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a136/FLYTYM/BUG010Small.jpgThis picture is with the rust disolved.You can see how pitted the metal is.http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a136/FLYTYM/Corvette042Small.jpg