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secondchance
10-23-2009, 07:09 PM
I was getting a strange noise when I braked to a stop.
Upon close inspection it seems upper control arm rear bushing (near the dip stick) is disintegrated.

Do I remove the arm and take to some shop that specialize in bushing install?

Another option seems to be buy a new arm with bushing installed.

Any suggestion?

ZR1Vette
10-23-2009, 07:58 PM
Do you mean this>>
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1frontbraketopview-1.jpg

Hammer
10-23-2009, 08:11 PM
Do you mean this>>
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1frontbraketopview-1.jpg
That is sick.

secondchance
10-23-2009, 08:17 PM
Yes, Michael.
Passenger side.
Rear bushing is falling apart and when breaking makes metal to metal clunk noise.

ZR1Vette
10-23-2009, 08:38 PM
I got a NOS from>>> http://www.corvetterecycling.com/default.asp and that is the one in my pic

secondchance
10-23-2009, 08:44 PM
So. Your suggestion is just buy the whole assembly rather than mess with bushing install. I was thinking along the same.

Did you have to replace the same? You hardly have any mileage on your 90.

Thanks.

ZR1Vette
10-23-2009, 08:50 PM
To your first ??? Yes... so easy to replace the whole upper control 'A' arm. Reason on mine was the upper grease seal was shot due to a over torquing the nut. Here is what I was dealing with>>>

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1newandoldcontrolarms.jpg

ZR1Vette
10-23-2009, 08:56 PM
Oh John...sick.. well I have been call worse :mrgreen: so for you entertainment one more picture >>

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1rearbrakescomplete.jpg

See this is a project...a reach to what I think I can do...life is short so my demounet

secondchance
10-23-2009, 11:38 PM
My 91 when I drove off the showroom floor back in 91 never, never, never looked that clean!!!:worship:

Aurora40
10-24-2009, 12:30 AM
Do I remove the arm and take to some shop that specialize in bushing install?

Another option seems to be buy a new arm with bushing installed.
I wouldn't think it would be hard to press a new one in? I've never done it though.

I suspect Michael bought another one because he didn't want the non-OEM look of a balljoint with screws and nuts. ;)

xlr8nflorida
10-24-2009, 01:45 AM
I think many of us on this forum are sick :mrgreen:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t150/90koth/baer2.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t150/90koth/baer.jpg

tomtom72
10-24-2009, 11:11 AM
JMHO,:o

I had bad boots on all of the ball joints on my car from day one of my ownership of it. My bushings were okay, maybe more than okay, maybe not even okay, who knows? I was on borrowed time on the ball joints for sure because of the boots being exploded off of their seats.

I did what Mike did with corvetterecycling.com and bought the set for about $450.00 shipped to me. It was a no contest in my case as four Moog ball joints, the gusher ones, were about $100.00 ea. Then I needed to get a machine shop to do the pressing in & out work....so for me it was the path of least resistance with the most gain. I just added a few things to my project in observance of the "while we're here" rule....I did the sway bar end links and bar to frame mount bushings. Now I have a "restored" front suspension and some level of piece of mind that I got good parts, OEM mostly except for the bar kit from VB&P in poly...:o

Okay, confession, I didn't do the work so I spent a ton on labor! I can't work where I rent garage space. You, on the other hand, could do all this at the WAZOO Technical Center for Research and Development and save a bunch on labor....well except if you do the sway bar kit as you will have to press out the OE end link bushings in the NOS/OEM arms you bought and press in the ones from the poly kit, if you go that far....and then find a place you trust to do the 4 wheel alignment.

JMHO:redface:

:cheers:
Tom

Aurora40
10-24-2009, 11:23 AM
Then I needed to get a machine shop to do the pressing in & out work
I thought you just had to grind or drill off the ends of the rivets and the ball joint would come off? Then new ones you use bolts and nuts to attach?

I've never done it though, that was just my understanding.

tomtom72
10-24-2009, 12:08 PM
I thought you just had to grind or drill off the ends of the rivets and the ball joint would come off? Then new ones you use bolts and nuts to attach?

I've never done it though, that was just my understanding.

On my 72 I had to press in the Moog replacements also. Not actually needing a press for the force as much as the bed made it easy to center the new part while getting it into the hole. These were nut & bolt types. You would not get it in by hand power. Although if you could center it properly, you could just use a big C-clamp. I never saw one that just "dropped" in place in my limited experience, and never saw ones where they fell out after you punched out the rivets. :dontknow:

The thing that made me give up on the idea completely was that over at CF/C4 tech there were a lot of threads about how much force it took to press in the replacement parts. A lot of guys that had arbor presses were questioning the amount of force needed to be excessive, in their opinions. The issue was across a good number of brands, including Moog. Some guys had parts that even the machine shops were questioning the fit issues! I saw a paper over at rockauto.com from Moog about this issue. They admitted to dimension issues on a run of their mid & high end joints, besides some other issues of Q/C. Now all of the threads showed up between early 06, and maybe mid 07. In truth, buy late 07 the landlord had 'come down" on me so it was moot for me & my shade tree stuff anyway.:redface:

-=Jeff=-
10-24-2009, 01:58 PM
I thought you just had to grind or drill off the ends of the rivets and the ball joint would come off? Then new ones you use bolts and nuts to attach?

I've never done it though, that was just my understanding.

That is correct for the uppers.. lowers are pressed

I too was going to do the Corvette Recycling route, but I got a deal on a set of Control arms and then Bought the Poly kit.. I did the better lower joints and the Mid-America joints on the uppers. I am happy with the poly kit so far too

secondchance
10-24-2009, 04:03 PM
JMHO,:o

I had bad boots on all of the ball joints on my car from day one of my ownership of it. My bushings were okay, maybe more than okay, maybe not even okay, who knows? I was on borrowed time on the ball joints for sure because of the boots being exploded off of their seats.

I did what Mike did with corvetterecycling.com and bought the set for about $450.00 shipped to me. It was a no contest in my case as four Moog ball joints, the gusher ones, were about $100.00 ea. Then I needed to get a machine shop to do the pressing in & out work....so for me it was the path of least resistance with the most gain. I just added a few things to my project in observance of the "while we're here" rule....I did the sway bar end links and bar to frame mount bushings. Now I have a "restored" front suspension and some level of piece of mind that I got good parts, OEM mostly except for the bar kit from VB&P in poly...:o

Okay, confession, I didn't do the work so I spent a ton on labor! I can't work where I rent garage space. You, on the other hand, could do all this at the WAZOO Technical Center for Research and Development and save a bunch on labor....well except if you do the sway bar kit as you will have to press out the OE end link bushings in the NOS/OEM arms you bought and press in the ones from the poly kit, if you go that far....and then find a place you trust to do the 4 wheel alignment.

JMHO:redface:

:cheers:
Tom

You are right! WAZOO Tech Center. After doing my own work, I really don't want to have someoneelse work on the car. I take longer but while I am at it I clean hard to access parts and I know the work was done right.
It's not too bad so most likely do both sides come spring. I will keep my ears open and make sure it's not getting too bad.

ZR1Vette
10-24-2009, 05:29 PM
Bob was spot on...because of non OEM look of replacing the ball joint.

It dawned on me (because of the WAZOO parts list) that I have the original upper control arm and that if someone can use then it is available. It is in excellent condition sans the ball joint grease cover... so if someone wants to do the ball joint conversion this is a great A arm to use...here are pics of it so tell me what you all think>>>
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1uppercontrolarmII.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1uppercontrolarmI.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1uppercontrolarmIV.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/MRBLU/ZR1uppercontrolarmIII.jpg

secondchance
10-24-2009, 06:48 PM
Let me give it a thought Michael.
I might take you up on it.

ZR1Vette
10-24-2009, 07:12 PM
My pleasure...it is yours if you want

Z51JEFF
10-27-2009, 04:35 PM
Ive seen the slip on ball joint covers at the auto parts stores for a few bucks.

secondchance
10-27-2009, 05:01 PM
Ive seen the slip on ball joint covers at the auto parts stores for a few bucks.

But would it hold grease and and keep the dirt and water out?

That was a rhetorical question. It's tempting but I think I will buy a set of uppers.
Also, caught this thread on the other forum where aluminum sleeve supplied w/ poly bushing was rotating against the bolt going through the upper arm and grinding it severely.

http://forums.*************.com/c4-tech-performance/2454547-urethane-upper-control-arm-bushing-kits-are-bad-news.html

I hope this is ok, mod.